MilesFox

the horn circuit grounds thru the switch. like john said they are behind the headlight area. the pushbutton 4wd is vacuum operated. there is a pair of vacuum solenoids on the drivers side(left hand drive) strut tower. they have a line each to a diaphragm on the tranny itself. they are supplied vacuum to from the vac canister on the other side of the firewall, check all the little plastic lines that run from it to the solenoids just under the rubber hood seal on the firewall. the canister itself is supplied vacuum to from a rather narrow hose that runs from thi intake manifold and along the strut tower. ususlly the hose has a reducer fitting from a larger hose on the intake itself does the heater vent selector work? if say you put it on defrost and it blows out the dash vent, that will confirm having no vacuum on the canister, since the heater controls work off the same vac supply

sounds like a rare beast being a carb dual range gl-10. buy it for novelty's sake. most gl-10 would be turbo or spfi autos, single range 5spds. dual range is where the money's at, that alone makes the car worth having if you are performance minded for off road or inclement weather such as DEEP SNOW. not any different mechanically than any 85-86 carb soob, but its the last model for a carb, plus the added bonus of the gl-10 ammenities. does it have a sunroof? the only other odd model of gl-10 that i have known of is a 2wd 3at spfi sedan

use a wagon and a brat. use the wagon for the front passenger area, front door and such, the use brat for the back, do u want 2 or 4 doors? 2-doors would still be more appropriate with a wagon to start with.

how do you mean by styling? there is not really anything aftermarket for styling, but if you an be creative then you cen get the effect you want. you could swap in parts from different trim lines, such as gl-10 or xt seat and gl-10 door panels for richer interior, mix and match interior panel colors to get 2-tone effect. wonders can be done with spray paint if you know how to use it properly, like accenting the cars shape with selectively painted body lines, stripes, 2-tone etc. i like black steel wheels with chrome trim rings myself. mount some lights, get some interior lighting as well, gauges, do something different that what everyone tried to copy. break out the sawzall and the welder. its allabout creativity he way i see it. ricer boys ask me "how much money did you waste on your car" and i tell them i put it together with stuff i already had

dont worry about the cracks between the valves, but DO worry about cracks in the EXHAUST PORT make sure you follow the torque sequence, and use graphite faced gaskets and also if u like copper gasket sealer. if you are NOT replacing the belts you can ulbolt the cam sprockets and later slip the belts back on without loosening the tensioner(if using the same belts) there is an 0-ring in the head gasket, make sure your set has them and dont forget them. also replace the o-ring on the cam towers where they meet the head. use a anaerobic sealer for the cam towers, permatex ultra grey is what you want, or any other brand of the same nature install the cam tower with tehcam as 12:00 position, the little pin would be UP, and use bearing grease or break-in lube to 'glue' the rockers to the lifter/valves, to hold them in place its much easier to do head gaskets with the motor out of the car,(do both of them at the same time) it will save you more time than the time it takes to pull the motor. it sucks to do them in the car to realize that one of the rockers fell out when you were trying to put the cam towers on, after you start it up!

alsoo with running the ea82 spfi manifold and distributor, tou will have to eliminate the egr and block it off to clear the bellhousing. the distributor is gonna fight for space with teh thermostat housing, you willhave to cut off one of the mounting tabs to the disy, and take the part where the screw goes thru and mount it upside down, and then mount the disty 180 off and wire to the cap 180 off from it so the rotor and wires are true to the firing order.

ugh! no wing?! no offense, my opinion, but the wing is what gives the rx its shape. i could see losing the side skirts, but having no wing makes the car look slopey like a buick!, like a "beefed up 3-door". more seriously, it has somewhat of an 80's mustang look without. keep the front air dam, i have a set of lights under the bumper that would just not look right without the front wing. paint the roof black and the lid of the tailgate, that would give it some shape, tint all the windows! then paint the raised center portion of the hood balck also.*opinion*

its not much different to change the oil pump seal than on the old pushrod, but you do have to take all the plastic timing belt covers. here is what will be involved http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm take it from me, and leave all the plastic covers off, and that will make any fture maintenance a breeze, say a 3 hour timing belt job can be done in 20 minutes! read more: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

i got a pair of 8's under the front SEATS. i used some thick foam type padding around the circumfrence mounted with screws and duct tape. it's not so loud, but it does fill in the sound spectrum and you can feel the bass in your 'nus

keep the heads. also the oil pump and the water pump, timing belt tensioner pulleys too.

its the only touring wagon i have ever seen

on trashwagon 5, i removed the headliner and used a thin piece of plywood between the roof itself and the spars. then went on the headliner, and i could use screws wherever to mount whatever the roof of boom now resides in the RX, the amp mounts directly to the rear roof ahead of the gate, wood screws thru the metal(not the roof itself, and the same on tw5) the speakers are now under the front seats i do, however, have a console from the ceiling of a van, and it mounts directly to the spar that contains the dome light, wood screws again. it is on this console i have a set of van map lights and the cb mounts to the structure of the console itself. sooner or later i will have pictures of "trash3-door: the fastback 2-door wagon, but right now its "secret mobile" status (no pics)

if the old alt has a tab on the back, a 3rd wire, its externally regul;ated and the ea82 alt will not work without wiring mods. if there is no 3rd wire, then its a direct swap

under the hood, there are green connectors and black(or white) connectors on the driverside firewall near the strut tower. plug the black connectors(single blade) together to read the codes. there is an led on the ecu, just drop the plastic down under the steering column enough to see the led

toggle switch! the fuel pump is right behind the rear passenger tire, 3 bolts and 2 hoses, there is a filter there too. if you hardwired it you can run 12v+ from the +coil terminal to the pump, and ground the pump to the body i would run the wires thru the fuel or brake line grommets on the floor, and ground the wire to a bolt on the seat or any bolt in the area

the ends will fit the same, so lengt will be for whatever you are using, but one end will fit to the others the same, same threads and all on the trailing arms, you can use the rubber hose from the rear disc and connect it to the steel line on the trailing arm itself

on some of the areas, say a hole a few inches, but has metal all around it, you can use fiberglass. i used a bondo brand fiberglass cloth kit, with resin inclused, for a hole in the arch of the fender, and from where the rear fender arch wad rusting out. but from your pictures the entire arch is missing, which you will need some kind of metal welded or riveted on, the n use bondo(try the fiberglass reinforced) to fill in and get the shape and smothness right

i assume you know how to use the towbar, wheel unlocked, etc tow the brat in neutral, in 2wd all four wheels on the ground. as long as its not in 4wd, or not in gear, you will be ok

did you take the distributor off? if so it may be out of alignment. rotate the crank so the 3 marks are in line, and the driver side cam dot is up. from there, rotate untill you see the 0 deg mark and then line your distributor to #1. the #1 will be the one to the right of the screw on the back of the cap, the firing order is 1,3,2,4, counterclockwise. the distributor turns 1/2 times as the crank pilley, so the crank will turn 2 times for the distributor 1 time go thru the motions to make sure the ign timing is right, then report back when you crank, the dist is turning, do you have spark at the coil wire?

old post, let me add to my commenmt that i used a pump off a fat case(85+) ea71 to fit on the ea81

i say do it, if you run your soob into the ground at least you have invested in the lift that can be swapped into something else. my only bad experience with rust was above the tube frame assembly, inside the rear wheel well, if that part is rusted OUT, then you may droop in the rear suspension (after a while, or some tough baja'n). i wouldnt worry too much, go for it!

scrape away any crud on the crossmember and clean out the engine compartment really good

as far as head gaskets, get tha napa victor brand. you can get the who;le set(for ALL ea82, enough gaskets for a block teardown) you can be more economical and get the head gasket set, and then get the engine seals separate(so you arent buying excess gaskets) the full set at napa is almost 300 bones, but the head set (head gasket/valve job) is i believe 135. it should have the intake gaskets included.

make sure you have a good crew aboard, yess it can be done within a 24 hour period. but that is given you know what to expect. pull the motor. pull the trans from the top if you chose. lower the 5spd in from the top. have a buddy do the pedal box while you do the engine seals. install the motor fully assembled get the car running and driving, then swap the rear parts(and driveshaft)

yeah, you will have to get the underhood vac solenoids, tou should be able to wire them up yourself, to either the shifter or a shifter plate(diff lock) either WAY, THE XT6 TRANS HAS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT SHIFTERS THAT wont fit the same on the ea82 car, so you may have to swap shifter pieces. a single range will fit nicely if you slot the one hole on the mount that bolts to the back of the tranny