MilesFox

is your wagon single range 4wd? if so, the 4wd vacuum mechanisms will work the diff lock the same, and the locked diff will behive like the single range in 4wd mode. and swap in the diff to match, the clutch assembly and driveshafts are the same. you may have to change the clutch cable itself, or be inventive. use the crossmember mount from your old tranny. i used the cars original shifter, on the xt6 linkages, and the 4wd button was my diff lock, no electrical or vac mods

do you feel the thumping in the wheel or the seat? could be the DOJ

i'll try pulling the wires to the pressure switches and see what that does. the blower fan will work normally on all other settings besides ac.

all ea82 4wd 5spds, turbo and non, full time and part time, use the same clutch disc

i like to use cannel plies around the circumfrence to get it moving, and once it goes too far in for the pliers thin i use the handle end of pliers or needle nose pliers to turn ot some more. be sure not to press the brake pedal with the caliper off, but the parking brake is ok to use. if the piston is hyper extended you may nered to tap it with a hammer till it catches a thread and turns in

if youre gonna start by buying NEW struts, make sure you come up with strut caps and springs too, as well as the proper tools. if you pull them out of the junkyard the strut will obviously be assembled with the caps and springs-direct swap in

no, the relay is good. i think this may have something to do with a short-to-ground in the ac circuit. this is jims 86 spfi sedan. the test connectors are under the dash. things i am keying on: codes flash with no test connectors connected, fan stays on without ac on. the thermoswitch fan cirgiot still works with the relay removed(jumper test) in the haynes book there is a "sub fan control" relay with a blu wire and a blu/black wir, and also 2 wires that go to "exterior lights" marked "nca" this is what i mean by haynes is junk. anyway, it shows the blu/black wire going to a "sub fan " relay, and blu/red then to "condensor fan" motor. but in between it has "nca" the blu/black wire goes to "condensor fuse". is this the one under the hood. if so the colors dont jive, there is a fat white and a smaller blue wire, and the haynes says blu/grn and wht on the sub fan relay the yel wire goes to the ac relay, and also to the main fan control relay. it shows te ac switch, low and high pressure switches in series, and the ac DOES come on, so those are obviously good if i unplug the ac(black) relay the ac turns off now whats screwy is i unplug the brown relay(which one is that?)and the ac blows colder, fan quits. but if plugged in, the ac is not as cold,and the blower will quit

also you can plug in the green test connectors under the dash(mpfi) or on the firewall by the wiper motor(spfi) plug them in and the fuel pump will cyle on and off test the plug for the pump itself. first put + on the red and - on the black. if you get voltage good, if not. put the = on the red and- on the body(ground) if you get voltage there you have a bad ground in the FP circuit, but you can make your own ground on the body. you can run the wire thru the brake line grommet and ground it to the rear seat bolt

mpfi turbo from 87 on is 20 deg 85-86 mpfi turbo is 25 deg (look under your hoods[sticker])

the fan is on all the time. if you remove the brown relay the fan goes off. but the fan should only be on with the AC. if you turn the ac on, the blower will quit after a few minutes. if you remove the brown relay, it will blow colder. the ecu will flash codes although none of the test connetors are connected. is there a ground problem or what? the haynes schematic"typical 80-86 heating, ac, and cooling" is junk does anyone have a lead on a good schematic. i cant find any rigged up wiring of any sort.

stock timing for a carbureted subaru motor is 8 deg. i am running my 86 carb motor in the rx at 10

for exhaust, you can use the header pipe off some later model ea82 fuel injected(spfi) for more flow, then cusom after the flange, the spfi pipe is tuned just right for subaru, that will get all your scavenging effect. it is possibe to use the ea82 motor from later 85-87 carb ea82, in conjunction with the 5spd dual range box. i myself have had an ea82, 5spd, and ea82 front suspensions, rear discs in an 83 wagon.. dependint on what motor/tranny combo you use will determone you clutch/flywheel configuration. if your motor needs rebuilt, maybe you can consider an ea82(timing belt) motor for replacement. thw motor itself will fit with no mods the way i made my mods was to mod the car itself to accept stock(replacement) parts. feel free to ask anyhing specific

you can drop the motor/trans/ypipe/front crossmember/steering/suspensin/struts as an assembly, its the same amount of work as puloling the motor/trans seperately, but you get the ENTIRE front end of the car. strap pn a seat and a gas tank and drive it around! the rear suspensipon/diff/axles/shox will come out as one piece, seight bolts, 2 brakelines

immediately after our 3AT TO 4WD 5SPD conversion on the sedan, we took it out for 4 days of baja'n, blew out a strut cap. we replaced that, to break it again. after the second time, we noticed oil on the shaft of the strut, so we replaced the strut and problem was solved to check the struts, thry bouncing up and down on the bumper. the car should bounce up, then down, then settle. if it moves any more cycles suspect a worn strut. also of the front bobs around after going over dips and bumps

ran one belt out west and back, no problems to this day. if you can find a non ac alternaor bracket and a dual pulley you can run 2 of the same belt you have now

our subaru alliance have installed roof racks on both the 4wd conversion sedan, and the RX. i did one on an 88 DL the outer rails are 2.5 inches fom the rear seam on a wagonb from the tailgatew, 2.75 from the side of the roof, and the center rails are 10.5 inches from the outer rails on the rx, the rails have been choppes just ahead of the mounting screw, so they dont sticj up with the curvature of the roof on th4e sedan, one of the cossmembers have been drilled out to acommodate sets of baja lights our applications removed the headlinet and use 1/4 inch screws with nylock nuts

needs more spraypaint! sheetmetal armor, too

lo miles and excellent shape = probably broke its first timing belt. 300 bucks i would do it

for a carb motor 8 deg is stock. 12 is not far off, some like to bump the timing for performance. mine is past stock but i cant tell you what it is till i get a timing light fuel injected models are 20 deg, and 85-86 turbos are 25

i will jack the car up by the diff or crossmember my favorite places for jack STANDS would be the front framerails, and the mounting points for the rear suspension tube assembly. sometimes i will place the jackstand on the bushings for the front swaybar. i generally dont put them on the lower control or trailing arms as i like the have the suspension move freely, as if the car is in the air its usually suspension work i never use the rocker panels or pinch welds as rusted models will cave in and collapse and allthat junk one clever way i used a jack was a tripodial stance. it was a 2wd to 4wd conversion, jacked up the rear and had one jackstand(big cast iron screw type, many ton capacity) i put a 4x4 piece of lumber longways in the tranny tunnel, and used the stand under it. the front wheels were on the ground. the car could rock side to side as the front suspension flexed, but the car was very well balanced, and was of good use since i was swapping out the entire rear suspension assembly

i have noticed on 89 and later mpfi turbo the intake has an absence of the egr, or the holes for it for that matter. looks like subaru eliminated it from the mpfi in 89 as stock form. something to consider...maybe find an 89 intake

suppose the ac has leaked out. danny charged his and it leaked, had to replace the o-ring. leaked again, it was the schrader valve on the ac line. he replaced it with opne off the sedan. the core from a tire valvestem will fit the same, but the seals on them are orange, wheras the ac's was grey in color. if it indeed had leaked out, you may as well replace the o-rings at the compressor or the valve core(or all)

use an spfi y pipe. i use one with 2/14 cherry bomb and 3 inch tailpipe after.

every now and so us butler crowd in NE IN goes baja'n in a local field. not too terribly far, we make laps and go in the woods!

if you wan to go to carb, it can be done with all stock parts find a carb and intake together, it bolts right on(and a weber carb can fit on the intake) find a distributor form any 85-87 carb ea82, and it will fit. connect it to the coil. you can leave all the existing spfi wiring and ecu itact, asd they will have no effect on the ign, and its not necessary to remove it. install a carb fuel pump(low pressure) in place of the fi one, you can even get away with eliminating the fuel return lines if the fuel wont blow past the needle valve in the float. connect the fuel pump to either the positive coil terminal or a toggle switch if so happens you cut too many wires, wire the coil to ign(or a toggle), do like you would a derby car for charge, ign, fuel its not much to do, i have run carb motors in an spfi body, and 2 mpfi turbo bodies. right now one is my daily driver, all of the mpfi is intact if i go back to mpfi turbo motor