MilesFox

later model ea82 motor swill fit, find a carb intake and use an spfi block. ann ea81 carb intake will bot to an ea82 motor, but you will have to invent a throttle cable mountand rebove the EGR valve and make a block off. the ea82 motor mounts fit the crossmeber the same, the bellhousing the same. you can swap the ea81 pitch bar mount to the ea82 motor. but since the disty is in the back of the motor, it will be really close to the master cylinder. you will want to remove the disty to install the engine(to clear the MC) then drop the dist back in once the motor is in. i myself had an ea81 intake on an spfi long block in an mpfi turbo wagon. mix and match can be done, subaru=legos

an ea82 motor will bolt into an ea81 car, wether it be an ea81 or ea82 tranny. ea82 motor on ea81 trans will require drilled out flywheel holes, but a 5spd is an ea82 motor are a perfect match

jim, do you mean the blower fan in the car or the fan on the radiator? maybe with the fan being hardwired with the key to begin with,(thats how it was when jim got the car) and now the ac wants to kick it in, there may be conflict with the circuits. i say this because on the dl, the fan was hardwired, and we hooked it up like it was supposed to be when we worked on it, and now the fan comes on with the ac when its supposed to, or when its hot, instead of all the time. i suggest on the sedan hook up the fan and thermoswitch like its supposed to be stock, and then do your troubleshooting from there

line up the driver side cam to 12:00 and the 3 marks. what you can do is remove the passenger side belt cover. unbolt the cam sprocket and remove it(to slip the belt off). now thread pulley and bolts back in, turn the cam to 6:00(with the other cam still at 12) you will have to fight the spring tension from the valves, but you can "balance" the cam at the 600 position. now you can slip the belt back onto the pulley, and then tighten the 3 bolts. if the tensioner was already adjusted you will not have to loosen it to begin with(if you prefer) here is some procedure for timing belts if you want to see where you may have went wrong http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

is your xt already turbo? if not ist mpfi, which would work with the turbo as far as the electricals go. if its not turbo you will have a higer compression ratio than with a stock motor, so you may wnat to go with an aftermarket engine management system the xt came as a turbo model also, and ea82T motor will bolt right up, and any from an 85-86 will work the same with the ecu and electricals, but you will need the knock sensing distributor to go with what i am saying is find a whole turbo motor off an 85-86 any turbo model subaru, since thay came like that anyway, and everything will pretty much be bolt-on with little or no modification

the pushbutton 4wd and the center diff lock use the same mechanism. i put an xt full time tranny in my turbo pushbutton 5spd, and my existing 4wd button and all the vac lines worked the diff lock mechanism the same. you can take a car with diff lock and put a pushbutton tranny in there and the diff lock switch will be your 4wd. when a full time diff is locked, it is the same thing as a pushbutton(part time) tranny engaged into 4wd

being coils they will pack in together, within eachother, and take up the space of one coil. i'll ask the post office today. if the money order is from the post office, postage can be paid when its cashed, one transaction. i'll see what the rates are. a timing belt cover cost me 5 bucks to send out, i dont know if it goes by weight or the size of the box.

might as well get the front engine seals while youre there. napa parts numbers http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/napa.htm

i got a set off a 2wd 83 wagon 130k, need to get rid of them. if you can figure out a shipping rate they are yours. email me if interested milesfox@yahoo.com

interesting, i'll give that a try. side note: if i jump the coil to the batytery, the car will still run after the key is off and removed! starter tab a good idea, didnt think of that (gt4hire if youre reading pay attention!) i'll post my progress here tomorrow. so far last night and this morning i didnt have the problem. but i will try that anyway as a contingency fix

on my rx, mpfi turbo with a carb motor and mechanical disty, sometimes it wont start unless i jump the + coil to the + battery, like a "jump start" for the coil, and when it starts, i can pull the wire and she still runs. today she started up though, its been intermittent for me as well follow up on my thread as it seems to be the same problem as mine http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18819

i got the rx with a carb motor, my secont durbo to carb conversion, but i never had this problem with the first one when you turn the key, crank, there is no spark till youlet off, sparks once, sometimes if you time it right it will start. i replaced the amplifier(mpfi coil) and that xseemed to fix it. i had the car driven and parked elsewhere for a few weeks, and when i came back to it it did the same thing if i jump the pos coil terminal to the battery, she will start, and once running, i can pull the jumper wire and she will still run. but if i turn it off or it stalls, it will not fire. yesterday it just so happened to start by itself, i warmed it up a little and moved iut around. i tried to start it 20 min later and same thing i may consider a pushbutton momentary button to star6t when cranking(like the jumper) but i also found an accel coil at the yard, and i may eliminate the whole amplifier deal. i noticed the black clip for the ground is not connected to the water pipe on the motor(motor end missing) could that have anything to do with it? it seems to me that trying to run the mechanical disty('86 carb) with the mpfi coil/amplifier that there is either too much resistance to fire up the coil, or maybe not enough juice? what kind of ideas would you have? it will misfire once in the upper rpm, coil breaking down. this is the same motor i had in trashwagon 5, but in there it had the shorter blue coil, this time it has the stock mpfi/spfi coil. maybe the resistance value for the coil vs dist is wrong? the battery was strong after sitting several weeks, it was strong the first time when i got the car together for the first time, battery on the shelf for months what kind of ideas would you have to eliminate the amplifier. i was going to try with the amplifier disconnected, and rin the pos coil to somewhere hot with the key on(run)

jim, the 4wd suspension alone(conversion) is what bumped the rump roast end up. the wagon still has its original springs.

zanny dooks sedan would read off the scale, racking miles up on the odometer, about 5 miles per mile. so oil in the cable? i'll check that out

if you have a pickle faork(ball jooint separator) pop the ball joint, makes it easier. use a long bar to push the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. WHACK

read this info if you want to try and fix it yourself. this is how i do it, i invented the subaru: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

could be 3.900 lsd

trashwagon4: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon4/trashwagon4001.html the reincarnation of TRASHWAGON, this 83 turbo was converted to 5spd and 3 in lift. a rollover accident and a prts hatch later this was "the worlds ONLY subaru 2-door wagon" trashwagon 5: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/trashwagon5.htm there will be a film about this car, and its westwardly travels. it is now junk, but all the modified bits will go to the iowa sedan, or the turbo wagon ther which is planned for mods, a trashwagon replica(trashwagon8) trashwagon6: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon6/trashwagon6001.html this car was bought for 100 bucks with the motor in the trunk. carb to turbo to carb to turbo rx conversion, 5lugs. this car is the epitome of mix and match. 88 sedan 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd dual range conversion: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/88sedan001.html this car was our first attempt at a 4wd conversion, 2wd to 4wd, auto to stick. immediately after it moved for the first time after the conversion, we flogged it for 3 days out baja'n 87 subaru RX, TRASH3DOOR: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/87rx001.html this bone stock RX knocked a rod bearing, so in goes the carb block for more compression, and ported heads. pump gas stock timing, west virginia to montana. this car was used to rescue trashwagon 5 from idaho. the car developed an electrical issue, so themotor lives on in trashwagon6. trashwagon 5 is no more, but the motor, trans, and front suspension, carpet interior, lights gauges, 'roof of boom' lives on in TRASH3DOOR, unoficially "trashwagon7: the fastback 2-door wagon"

my carter weber(floppy carb) had a stripped out bolt. there is the one that goes thru to the manifold, and another that goes tru with a nut. it was the screws on the underside, would not hold torque, i would have to remove the carb to tighten them. starting was a pain, had to pump like mad and hold it wide open. idled high when extreme, fixed twice. i liked it better than the hitachi otherwise. i dont know if this is common, but mine was a carter weber

do you need the reciever or the whole thing? there is a bolt-on hitch at woody's in columbus oh. danny has on his ride what you are talking about, but i dont think he has an extra receiver.

there is a cerank angle sensor bui,lt into the disty. i am assuming your car is fuel injected (spfi). the dist sends a signal to the ECU for the spark, and fuel pump. we had a sedan, 88 spfi, 200k, every now and then, usually freezing cold weather, it would crank and crank and no fire. leave it sit for a day and it starts. we replaced with an accel coil, changed the module. but it was a shot in the dark, did it again the next winter. eventually the motor found its way in the loyal. the motor ran with no problem in the sedan. but once it was in the 91 loyale, it would die out, tach falls to 0. leave it sit for a minut and it starts, but dies soon after. we replaced the maf, ignitor, coil, ran again and then stalled. we then replaced the distributor and that solved the problem, we actuall yused the dist from an 87 mpfi turbo, but we swapped the wiring, and the rotor fit(looked better) and that worked with our 88 spfi motor in a 91 loyale

if you bend it at an extreme angle, see of you can dig a ball out. you may need to get it in its magic spot, it may have only one position to come apart. i myself never took one apart, but i know a guy(tomrhere) that has had them apart. may destroy something, be careful. once you get one ball out the rest is easy

if you do trashwagon's lower control arm mod, you can use ea82 axles and thus the 25 spline doj. this will also allow you to go 5-lug as well using stock xt6/leganus axles the idea is to moint a ea82 loere control arm on the ea81 crossmember. but the mount has to be re-located one width back, as the ea82 control arm curves. modify the ea81 strut cap to fit an ea82 strut and youre set.

wiggle it from side to side, it fits onto a shaft that prodrudes theru the pulley. use a long bar and a hammer to tap on the shaft and bust it free. (put a cardboard between the radiator if its not out)