MilesFox

B45702 Oil Pump Mounting Seal EA82 this is the seal you can replace on the oil pump, this will hel[p maintain internal oil pressure if air bubbles in the oil are causing the noist lifters. there is another o-ring on the oil pump itself, get that too. ATF wont do any good unless you plan to change the oil again. if oil pressure itself may be an issue, thicker oil like 20w 50 would be ideal i suggest running open timing belts(no covers) makes this type of work quicjk without having to remove a bunch of stuff http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm

my 83 wagon(like a brat) had an entuire ea82 setup. is the brat an automatic(probly not!) if its a 4spd, MT, you use its crossmember, bolted to the 5spd trans now, the 5spd will have some clearance issues in the back, that can be over come by slight beating of the trans tunnel. you mat have to cut out the shifter hole or part of the tunnel(as i did). you can drop the tranny crossmember down a bit by spacing washers between the frame mounts and the body you will need the driveshaft from the 5spd, its the right length for the brat, but you will need to make a mout for the carrier bearing. you can get away with keeping the same rear diff, 3.900 is what you need, its on a tag on the back of the diff the rear trailing arms will swap, but that is not necessary, for the conversion, but they will if you needed them if a wheel bearing went out or bent one) the motor out of the wagon will work in the brat also. but, you will have to relocate the hillholder back an inch or so. i unbolted it and tweaked the brake lines to make room(wanst hooked up) now, the distributor will be rather close to the master cylinder. if you can find an MC from an auto, that will clear better, but is not necessary. the trick is to REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR to install or pull the engine, but thats it. dependin on how you alt/ac bracketry is on the wagon, you can keep all that, and delete the power steering and ac pump. now, i have mocked up an ea81 power steering rack to the ea82 pump and lines, but that car never was complete. on my wagon, it had manual steering you will have to be creative for the dual range lever, it wont mount like a stock brat one will. there is one example(mcbrat) who made an ea82 console fit. another guy here (bratsrus) makes a kit to use the brat style lever with teh 5spd tranny if you want to go further, you can adapt the ea82 suspension in the front, but that requires fabrication and relocation of the lower control arm. it can be done, as i did on my wagon

we had the same problem, turned out to be the tps, same with an spfi. try a replacement to be sure we clocked the tps(screws) to make it think the throttle was more open, and that helped quite a bit. now the occurrence is rare

one guy has put an ea82 turbo into a gen one brat. mmodified motor mounts i do believe i myself have out an ea82 motor in an ea81 car, it all fits the same, just procedure is different: "remove distributor to install or pull motor: as far as what motors and trannies fit, all ea82 trannies fit all ea81 motors. later ea71 has the ea81 bellhoising. older ones(starter on top) can swap a bellhousing with an ea81, to use an old ea71 with an ea81/2 tranny autos and sticks fitr in the same bodies each bodystyle without mods, just have the right mount, drveshaft, and final gear(diff) for the swap 2wds can be converted from auto or stick to 4wd auto or stick. everything is the same, but you will have to swap the entire rear suspension assembly(tube fram, traikling arms, diff,axles) also you will have to modify a mout for the carrier bearing, and drill holes for the diff hanger(ea82) ea81 2wd and 4wd can be swapped with little mods(tranny tunnel), but all the 4wd rear end bolts up, the holes are there on 2wd for the diff mount, and 4wd uses a single piece driveshaft. you can also swap in 5spd 4wd from 4spd 4wd or automatics in an ea81, but you will have to make a mount for the carrier bearing that is pretty much "standard" swap cross reference for 80's model soobs, ea81 and ea82 if you can find an 80 brat, or the front crossmember, it was designed for an ea81 motor. but the older crossmember can be modified slightly, (the steering shaft will be in the way) but around that, you can put an ea81t the same, if you get all the ecu/wiring, etc

without the covers, the cams will line up at the seam of the valve cover and cam tower

my idea of adding an ea82 spring to an ea81 car, is to help it out with weight capacity. like if you have it loaded down, or pull a trailer. i pulled a 2 axle trailer with a car, the soob was not in thebest shape for it(no brakes, incomplete project) but the coiloves had no trouble with tongue weight(compared to stock and a tow dolly)

a replacement motor, say one in the junkyard with a broken timing belt, would be a suitable replacement. cheaper than doing a bottom end build, you would be better off with another motor to reseal i say the ones with broken timing belts because we know it will run when fixed, thats why its in the junk-no one wanted to pay to fix it i would figure 100-200 bucks for a motor, the mre expensive extreme being a complete or sale by owner motor. a junkyard may let you have it for a bill, longblock

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/glossary.htm there is some general terms and stuff like engine designations here is more http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/subaruframe.htm

ok, here it goes. i will assune the lower redings were on one head. lets assume a bad head gasket. ok, now lets try to verivy that: does the coolant boil over(compression in the coolong system) does the cooland disappear?(coolant loss into combustion chamber or cranc case, white steam out the tailpipe its burning in the cylinders) brown sludge on dipstick, case breaters, and oil fill cap(coolant in oil) oil in radiator(oil passage leaking into coolant) its possible the head may be cracked, but the syptoms would be loss of cooland and steam, but even compression. can be not a problem if you keep water in the radiator, depending on the rate of loss suppose now we have varified a bad head gasket, or we have decided to remove the heads and replace them anyway. here is what to look for: a good gasket will stick either to the block or the head. a bad gasket will try to separate on both sides, stickingh to block and head and peeling away as you pull the head. look for shiny spots on one cylinder, or one head, the suspect head(lo comp. reading) shininess like its real clean is where water and steam are burning, that is a dead giveaway of where the gasket failed there bay be cracks between the VALVES, but that is NORMAL. dont sweat those. crack to worry about is in the exhaust ports. i HIGHLY doubt you have cracked heads if you dont want to fix it, sell it to someone who will. dont junk it ,please! the car is really not that bad off. i myself would buy a car like this if it ran and drove(to get it home) and with the mind to fix it(knowing about the problem)

on the extreme, being a rebuilt engine, someone had to touch the bottom end somehow, and mechanic error could have caused a spun bearung (OUCH!)

if you can t find 2wd discs, find 4wd discs and take the whole trailing arm. you will have the axle stub, parrs invested for future conversion! 4wd trailing arms alone on a 2wd will RAISE THE BACK END UP A BIT. easy "lift" for the saggy bottom soob and ea82 rear trailing arms will fit in an ea81 with a little grinding and reaming on one bolt hole

i run with an absence of all the cobvering. i like to leave behind the plastic piece behind the driver belt idler pulley, for 2 reasons: thatis really the only place the backside of the belt is exposed, bolt stays torqued i highly recommend using GOOD torque or some thread locker on the idler pullet, as if its not tight enough it will walk out and snap i could say myself that that is the only problem i had with open belts, and that has to do with wrenching, not exposure over here at alleyboys we are building up a turbo shortblock with re-worked heads, and the vote is no blet covers. i myself prefer open belts, but i dont mind installing the covers say if it were jims motors

cash on the table, your offer, take whole car. sold

your best bet is to keep it to swap all the goodies to a lesser but nicer soob. being in iowa im sure you can find someone who may be interested in parts from it, especially the 4wd

pretty much straight forward. 4wd to 4wd. try a 2wd to 4wd, more stuff! the pedal box and clutch cable will come out as a unit you need a DRIVESHAFT, any 5spd will fit, actually its only the front half thats different (5spd is longer)

broken timing belt. pop the distributor cap and watch to see if the rotor turns. when cranking. if not, its broke. the coil is goos f it has power, just the wire to the cap(coil wire) doesnt spark because the dist is not turning. here is some reading. not hard to fix yourself. take the motor oout if you have a crane. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

what about unplugging it? you could maybe make a T to it, if its not a flow-thru type device. i dont understand what it does anyway. it probably sends a signal to the ecu that the ecu doesnt factor into equasion.

the gears in a 5spd are closer together, thats what u want for rallyin'. 4spds they say are better for mud type stuff with wheelspin. but what you want is 5spd for topping out, 4th and 5th are real close, keep it in the same rpm range between shifts,

will trade with puegots. hey im doing some floor work and making cash. here by the end of the week i will have from none to most of the money i need for my license. see you on the road thereafter!

im in columbus now. maybe i can look at it? the problem is commonly the o-rings in the air lines, sometimes a wiggle wil make it seal, if its an intermittent problem. i know of 3 legacys at the junk (u wrench) if you wanted to do the conversion. its fast and easy if you know what to do

i made an adapter out of 30 dollars of plate aluminum, a drill, and a tap. 40 bucks total. i aborted the project, but i learned something. by now it has been attemterd enough that there is a "standard" procedure for building one. its a close match for the bellhousing, the bottom studs will line, input shaft will line. top bolts need holes made. you will use an ea81 or ea82 flywheel depending on your tranny. the adapter will be 12mm thick to make up the difference in the engiones bellhousign depth. use clutch pak/flywheel and starter from the tranny you may use this is what i can tell you from attempthing one, and reading other's attempts/successes. mated and installed, never ran

here is what i can tell you, red with yellow stripe is off the headlights, red with greeen are inst, int, tail/park lights. white or white with black stripe is hot off the alt(batt) black ground. what color wires are melted together, which fuse number or what fuses have melted wires

hey, i was the only one in my area, but look what im doing now.

ok, if the horn doesnt work to begin with, i wonder if its grounding out. the horn itself grounds at the switch, so the other side would be hot. have you removed the horns? check all its wiring, where were the melted wires/sections LOCATED?

i would bet it has a lsd, but the guy explaining it didnt understand. so he meand diff lock, but it must have lsd if he mentioned it. score for rarity. i say its a good deal