MilesFox

soobs have a short throw crank, some (dont quote me exactly) a 63mm stroke and a 92mm bore. leverage in action. the subaru motor is happiest around 3500 rpms, its the easiest load for the motor, it may seem a high rpm, but the motor makes less effort to cruise at a higher rpm than a lower rpm. otherwise the motor would be lugging it too much to pull an automatic. but a subaru motor really shines with a 5spd, where it can make the best of its power curve.

it would throw a code because it senses an inactivity, but that may not have to do with general performance, but the computer knows whats up. just the ecu ability to sense it, not so much for its function, i would say.

the volt meter reading(dial )was no diffeent with the car on or off, at the battery posts

the inner DOJ is rebuildable, but the outer cv end is not. the double offset joint is like a cv joint, but it allows in and out motion like taking the flex of suspension, rather than having turning radius like the cv joint. think of the doj like a slip yoke

thats what im saying, the filter thinks the word **** is in as itself within the spelling of the name matsu****a.

http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f4430b8.49200047/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f2c055f4862e9.39782181.art wastegate duty solenoid. that must be the deal not connected, as i described my last post. it never made a difference with me. you DO have a boost control valve, so thats more likely your boost spike i would think

keepin it real. they need more people that knows stuff in the old gen forum no intent on the word filter, but that is how you spell matsu****a

hazard, horn and clock are on the same fuse. what caused a meltdown?

ok, if you are using the ea82 rack, here is your list ea81 control arms ea82 radius rods chopped and lengthened i am assuming ea82 struts, that is what i recommend. but that may bring you to use the ea81 axle. maybe go with the ea82 lower control arm ea82 inner outer tierods on ea81 power rack, but if ea82 rack swaps, youre good the crossmember for the ea81 maybe narrower than the ea82 body, such as is so with gen 1 and gen 2 crossmembers thinking of this, explore these possibilities: putting ea82 crossmembers on the wrong side, to get clearance. chop and move swaybar mounts to front, or use ea82 swaybar(or both)

i dont know if this is what you meant, but you said water pump. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

the adjustable struts have notches similar to that of atv and motorcycle rear shox

on an 88, there are vac. lines from the turbo to 2 vac switches near left strut tower. you can bypass these switches like how it appears stock on 85-86 mpfi turbo(vane style MAF) just run the wastegate to the turbo outlet and that will work properly for the wastegate(or boost control)

i just signed up. i star to go there so often. i see some usmb gus there somewhat. nasioc needs a little miles fox

im not in butler. its that simple. needed to get out long time ago!

a carrier bearing mount can be built rather simply with a welder, some steel and a hacksaw, drill i built one in a matter of minutes from steel laying around, built it around the driveshaft and the car. it was built around an ea81, but it also worked in an ea82. much cheaper than a driveshaft, if you have the resources to build one after reading all this again, you may be out of luck on the doj swap to the ea81 axle, unless the ea81T axle has a larger diameter DOJ. if that proves to be true, then you can use some 25 spline doj from a ny full time or 5spd turbo ea82 axle if not, you can modify the front crossmember to use an ea82 lower control arm and axle. then you can use the right axle for the tranny(turbo 5spd)

yep you got it. the you can chop off some ends of some other radius rods, and weld them to the existing. i think it will space out one hole. just need the flat part, bolt it on, and then weld i think the hole on the ea81 will be bigger than the ea82 ball joint. it will still work, but may not draw tight, maybe some kind of sleeve will help that. or weld some in and drill out to reduce the hole and make it tight.

there are some bolts in the water jacket on one side, and towards the rear of the case outside for the other side. bolts behind the oil pan too, and i think one or 2 behind the flywheel, not sure

85 and 86 4wd ea82's should have rear adjustable coils

the diff lock works with vacuum pressure from the RUNNING engine. it feeds from the vac reservoior on the left firewall. but you should hear the relay click if you hit the switch. if the car was running or had vac you would hear some air. although you may hear the mechanism operating, the diff lock itself wont engage without vac pressure, or it may need to be spinning(driving) to engace once the mechanism is tripped pop off the little rubber plug under the pitch bar to view the timing marks. there will also be a separate 3 marks close together, those are for the cam timing, they represent the pistons are at the center of their stroke

may i mention the dimmer is for the DIGITAL display, if that may have a difference. its only an issue with the headlights on i need to re-buff my multi-meter skills, took auto electric at ivy tech. john(alleyboy) has some FSM material for me to use, i will be allright with proper schematics, i like the fsm has the plugs and clips labelled for ease of troubleshooting! as long as i have good reference material we can get this thing figured out

im busy all month. the pigz in butler are scratching their heads

exhaust! 2 inch off the stock y pipe. mine has 2 1/4 cherry bomb off the y-pipe, and 3 inch after that. MEAN!

xp is still a novelty to me, never installed it, im still old-school with 98

there you go! im all over the front page. time to go to bed

a longer 10mm wrench. makes it MUCH easier. 7/8 wrench to hold the shaft i personally would not want to take all the fan, pulley, and dipstick, outer covers off to get the inner cover off(to get going again) . the time it takes to do all that i would be done. just my preference, anyway. i would play with timing belt covers if i was bored, or if it was someone elses car and they wanted keep them on. i dont mind doing so if the motor is out and apart