MilesFox

i would suggest the inner DOJ of the axle. usually it acts up under deceleration. can you feel the noise through the steering wheel?

dont mind answering newbie posts. sometimes im the first to answer, or the only one to answer. i get thanx in the email, at least to them i know what im saying, which i do anyway. thier first impression of the board is Miles Fox!

cant you just use the doj from an ea82 turbo axle, on an ea81 4wd axle? what's about the legacy doj?

that first picture must be some circulation photo for the background, its the same picture here on this computer background, minus the subaru, and e-machines lettering standing atop the hill

the car that was towing the trailer just saw its way out on the back of the same trailer. goodbye, trashwagon 5

some farmer's field, and the yard around the carbola. only since ther is no such thing as a rally scene around here, no automotive scene except for Dean Kruse and his record setting auctions, the Auburn-Cord-duesenberg festival

drove the RX all winter then to west virginia and ohio and west and back missing the same bolt(either fell out somewhere since or was never installed), all along, all this time, didnt notice it till i swapped another suspension to the rx a few weeks ago! didnt act up any though

yeah, replacing the dimmer worked for a moment, then quit again. i wonder if the dimmer burnt up. no red lights glowing. i suggest pulling the dashboard, use that an excuse to chang et he AC core, and comb over the wiring harness for melting the wagon has the inboard alternator, the smaller type, the other types are too big to let the belt tighten up could the voltage to the flat terminals on the alt cause it to run in full amperage? it does make a little noise, could be a bad bushing, ANOTHER bad alt but the dash dimmer burned out again, so its gonna be an arguement to is it the alternator burning it out, or something else. only a known good alt will prove otherwise

the crossmember/lower control would be the only thing modded, the ea82 radius rods mounts will work, but you may have to lengthen the rods themselves i would vote for option 2, this would be the OPPOSITE of trashwagon, you would have to lengthen the radius rods. if yo are handy at frabrication enough to do so you could *possibly* adapt the ea82 swaybar mounts. that or make mounts for an ea81 swaybar. this option would be ideal for an existing lift kit. if you are handy at fabrication to build your own lift with offset, then i would vote option 3. less overall fabrication, and your discretion to how things line up! if you offset an ea82 crossmember using the ea82 lower control arm, the ball joint hole will have to be enlarged. ea81 knuckles are too big for ea81 tierods, but you can swap inner/outer tierods with ea81/ea81 if they are BOTH power steering (mine was manual rack, lengthened ea81[was ea82 originally] tierod)

you live in washington. soobs fall out of the sky. someone would probably GIVE you a motor. spfi is dime a dozen. dont mind about 50 bucks in seals and timing belts on a used motor, it will be good to go forever! ones with broken timing belts(from a junkyard) are your best bets since you know it wont be a bad head gasket or anything major

take all the good parts and pout them on the good car. take all the leftover parts and put them on the rusty car. drive both cars. or sell the rusty one! i could do it in 2-3 days(ENTIRE motor/tranny/suspension/subframe/interior swap). ask ol' jim wood pretty much if you have 2 complete cars, then you have EVERYTHING to do it besides a drill bit and a few bolts. jim went from 2 running cars to 2 running cars, each car is in the other's body!

if thats the case, might as well start with an ea81T body(with, with/o motor) but if that's the case, might as well go with an ea82T my vote is the whole ea82 motor, might as well, less work, and you can have a whole motor for as much as all the stuff separate. this would be reasonable if you havent started yet already. timing belts are not that bad(to replace)

over here to alleyboys, only one up. this is what i like to do all day anyway, get out of butler. the board never gets old!

if we could pretend the car never came with covers, you could have fixed it in 20m minutes! clip on belt covers would defeat their own purpose if we couldnt make a quick disconnect crank pulley and dipstick, clutch fan. those are the hassles in my experience i fixed a timing belt off the side of the road(in town, took all afternoon) about 4 hours. not too fun. open belts on the next car, broke one, fixed it in 45 min in the dark with a flaslight, 75 miles from home next time in the rx, open belts, fixed it in the time it took for danny to take his dads car home and come back with the truck(in town, 20 min) all the broken belts withthe open application was from the use of existing/used belts. THOUSANDS of miles , 2 trips west and back, no poroblem. baja'n no problems. no excess wear, oil leaks stay off the belts! the whole idea that i am preaching is over the road troubles, quick repair time, get going before the state patrol finds you!

i had a similar idea with trashwagon 5, it had the single piece center console that came to the parking brake acess, i had it somewhat chopped up for a cd player. i had a broken ea82 bottom console that i was able to stuffon the inside, but i squeezed it too narrow for the cover plate. put a piece of carpet where the boot wasn't what i needed was the 2-piece unit, just the top(stereo0 and i could have mounted an ea82 lower console without much difficulty(console and plate, 2 screws an e-brake adjust cover) nice to see a completed example:)

well, hell, im about the only one on this time. havent been on for a week, just going down the list. all i have been doing is working on soobs all the past few weeks

adjust clutch first, how you like it. then adjust hill holder figure how far you keep your foot off the ground, i keep my heel on the floor and clutch with my toe, clutch engages almost immediately off the floor. dont like to hover my leg, clutch to the floor for me you dont want to clutch so high that it over extends the pressure plate and bearing. when relaxrd, i leave about a mm of slack, lock the nut. that is al you need. from there you can adjust the hill holder, find a hill to park on on either adjustments you only want to make a few turns each try till you get it where you want it

somewhare along the line subaru couldnt beat the truck tariff, maybe 85 or so, thus they quit importing them here and they went away from the US in 87

what tom said, compression and leak-down tests, try to rule out the head gaskets first let it run to OT, check coolant, make sure the air is out. then you can check to see if u have bubbles, if the coolant wants to boil over could be HG, but i would doubt a new installation. also check for coolant or steam in oil,(milkshake on dipstick, oil fill cap, pcv hose fittings on cam cover) or oil in coolant what is more likely is a cracked exhaust port in the head, leaking water there. that will get you smoke with no side effect but coolant loss. block seal should fix that(fixed a bad HG for me), napa brand works FOLLOW DIRECTIONS PRECISELY you can try that, and if that dont fix it, then we can rule out the HG and cracked head(confirm with compression test) drive it around, watch the temp, process of elimintation

i bet the trogdor fit has to do with power belts, and a more similarity around that with the lotale anmd the xt floors based on the overhead belt structure. i can imagine what trogdor nmeas, if both having auto belts, and the difference in the loy-a floor and the xt, one rail protruding slihtly farther past ithe mounting hole, hence the longer bolt the ones i used in wagons, mine and jim's, mine from an xt6 (88? tom?) and jim's from an 86 on both i used GL-10 rails to swap the tracks, to preserve the height adjustments(gl seats would have no atatchment in back the driver rails were a direct swap, but the slide lever interferes withteh xt adjustment, so the locking tabs have to be bent out, the cable has to be re-bent to take a little slack out. the passenger seats have to get the rear holes drilled, a bolt and nuton each, and one side needs a spacer(lug nut works). any seat rail will work for the passenger, but you will lose the 2-door slide forward function from the rear foot lever. but i am certainly assume rx seat rails will work, it has to. my application from the wagon, the seats swapped into the rx the same fit

put an amp up there too! roof of boom worthy, i like

i got some 100 watt baja lights under the bumper, but that means anti-baja, a good dip will tear them off and ruin them(broke a band already) we put a roof rack on the rx, and the sedan has one with lights mounted to it, makes it modular and removable/swappable that way.

probably squeezed some air out of it putting it on, has a slight vacuum in it, sucking in a ridge. not to worry about, more of an appearance thing

same goes for the timing info, some years may call for a different settign for the same setup 25 deg tdc for earlier turbos and 20 deg for later turbo and all spfi

dont you just love a leaky gas tank:D anyway that's waht i would do what tim said. indiana requires proof of insurance before registering. and a license before driving:brow: but you can own a title regardless. anyway, title 15 bucks, plates 29 bucks, insurance 90 bucks a month. a year ago my age was high risk, 135 bucks a month i sust keep a policy number on my reg, and if i didnt have ins. when i registered it, at least the policy number on the reg. will assume so. that's what i did to get a plate on the RX to move it to michigan and park it. i'll buy insurance when i drive it. my insurance dude will write me up for 6 mo.s. but if i dont pay the 2nd month, it cancells. but i can go in any time and reinstate it, like the policy resets, sort of a month at a time as i need it. ins dude cool like that in indiana, you can transfer a plate from one car to another for 30 days with a dated title or a bill of sale. so long as you "dont have or sold" the previous car. if i were to go to new york and get a car, i could have done that. may not fly in other states, but it would be legal for 30 days in indaian, even with the NY title as long as there was prrof of sale within 30 days(insurance assumed)