MilesFox

a new o-ring is usually ok, especially with a new pump. i tend to use silicone with used o-rings, but that is not always necessary. sometimes the mount for the pipe can bend a little, just push it in as far as it goes, bolt it up, and maybe push down on it a little, as it may have pulled up when pulling the hose. a wiggle usually does it if that's the problem

i am attempting this conversion out of having no replacement ac compressor for jim's turbo wagon. all was going well, swapping from the inboard alt/square compressor to the outboard alt/round compressor. i got so far as to realize the xt pulley for teh power steering wont fit. i tried to dril it out, but the offset is defferent. the pump itself wont fit the other bracket. i found a nonXT round ompressor, but i cant find the stupid idler pulley. i know i gave jim a complete assembly once, but im not gonna tear his house down looking for it while he's at work. other than that, it was suposed to work. so here is what im working with and my options at this point: 1. put it back together like it was, keep bad compressor. there is another square compressor, but the hoses for it are 1 bolt instead of 2 2. find the missing tensioner pulley and keep the v-belt setup 3. take up the intake and swap power steering pump/brackets this realy gets me, hoping to have it done before jim gets home, because i have the opportunity to go with danny to doo some floor maint. work and make some money. i dont want to take the intake up without jim's opinion first. so i may as well sit here and look at 2 torn apart subarus until then jim has all kinds of parts and gasket sets falling out of his rump roast from ebay, but no dual port intakes that i saw. maybe if i'm lucky the gaskets will stay with the intake or the manifold when i take it up. i have had success using used gaskets on my own cars, even with an broken intake bolt on one side. but this is jims car, he always had GENUINE parts for me to use. otherwise i would, but that's not my call at this point

i was just about to say, since after playing ith jim's turbo wagon, the white clip calebz mentions looks like one to the valve for the air strut. not to say he's wrong, but any pushbutton 5spd 4wd has the same connector for the 4wd mechanism(which is the same mechanism for any with the diff lock) oh yeah, one more thing, any 3-door body drivers window switch will be tha same and work the same, as long as you find the right color you want. passenger switches are the same for any model, but a rear switch may have a longer wire

where did you get the car from? maybe we can trace it back to a usmb member as a previous owner?

after poking around jim's wagon, used a test lead to check for voltage at the sheft lever ligh(auto) it showed i had voltage at both prongs, so a good bulb did no good either. after referring to the haynes manual, it all comes from fuse 12(engine meter) and it was good. being a digi-dash, the int display would disappear with teh headlights off. also if you dim the dimmer past fully on they would be off. well, before i got into tearing the whole works apart i replaced the inst dimmer switch and what do you know, it works! problem solved what did we learn? voltage spiking will burn out the dimmer switch! jim will be pleased when he gets home, and his wife can see how fast she's gong at night!

the ea81 turbo was not available with the 4wd 5spd (not in the US anyway. ) you describe a dual range lever. there were part time dual range (23 spline) and full time dual range (RX) but if its in an ea81 body, which used 23 solined axles, mos likely you have a part time 4wd dual range from a non turbo, which will have a 3.9 gear go find soem sand or loose gravel, engece 4wd and see if she binds up or not

in response to the window switch screw holes you should pretty much expect that. every one i have takenoff the hole were cracked including my 87 RX that has NEVER BEN APART. what ihave found to work best are inch ong wood scews witha fine threat asn a sharp tip, enough to bite into the plastic at the bottom of the holes. just be sure they dont poke thru if you torque them too much!

my opinion, having parts around all day is invaluable. like when i put the spfi sedan together, i used an intake from one, an dist from another, on an already mix and match long block(carb heads on spfi block). i had enough parts, bolts, nuts at my disposal to try them all out and pick what fits best. my advice is if you have a place to keep them, why the hell not. any subaru with a title is worth putting together for me. bonus points if everything to the car is all there.

stock y-pipe, and a 2-1/4 glass pack after the flange, and 3 inch pipe to the tail. i swear by it, sounds quiet till you pull a good rev, and a nice snarl when you let off the gas/shift that will scare ricer's fart cans off! i swear by it. do that, and an accel coil with .045 gap and high ign wires.

chuck the covers and make some nice billet pulleys, maybe with some offset for cam timing.

on the road trip the second time, the RX averaged a 500 rpm higher difference than trashwagon's part time dual range, but it got better fuel economy in danny's loyale, h connected one of those vacuum gauge "gas saver" and as you increase rmp for the same amount of pedal travel, the needle moves up into the good and excellent. if you notice, say at 50-55 mph in 4th gear, there is less pedal effor than trying to keep the same speed in 5th at a lower rpm 3500-4500 rpm is optimum range for the ea82 motor, right smack in the powerband. whenever i go baja'n in the field, the tach is always about 4500 to 5500 rpm all day, and the motor doenst complain one bit!

dont forget the fact that i had NO BRAKES, other than the hand brake! the fact i had ea82 coilovers withthe existign torsion suspension handled the tongue quite well. who knows what would have happened if i DIDn'T let the sheriff around me. anyways that s why i got a truck plate for the other wagon(JF2 vin#) we once rented a dolly and the guys said is this the car i was towing with, as i noticed there was no wiring for the pigtail, and i simply said i was taking the dolly to a truck we were using. well, we used the car. 4th gear most of the time, lo range with no rear axles.

although the holes may appear to line up, the axle will only fit in one direction, otherwise its half a hole off. i always stick my punch thru th make sure its lined up before i install the pin all rear axles and most front axles are 23 splines, and a 4spd is 23 splines also you may be able to use a front axle doj on the inner side of the rear axles

john, when i go back to jims this tuesday, i can measure the mount that i built, it fits both ea81 and ea81 bodies. what i did was built the mount around the carrier bearing, bolted it to the bearing, installed shaft and jacked it up against the body, from there i marked where i wanted the holes to be, took it out, drilled, put it back in, and drilled thru the floor with the holes i just made on an ea82 the holes will be right where the trans tunnel starts, and between the seat belt release and the front rib the seat bolts to. it was rather simple to make, all in about 20 minutes, i spent more time looking for the appropriate metal than i did fabbing it up

another thing to check would be the temp sensor for the ecu. not to be confused with the temp sending unit for hte gauge, the one to check is on the back side of the intake near the turbo. you will have to remove the upper plenumn(undo the hose clamps, but you can leave the hose underneath connected) it has a brown clip that looks like the connectors for the injectors. the haynes book will have the testing procedure and the resistance values for this sensor. if the sensor is out of whack, the car will start and run while cold, but onece it warms up and goes into open loop mode, it will throw off the fuel metering. sounds like the car started and ran till it warmed up? how long does it run before it dies? somtimes somply cleaning the connector itself can cure the problem but you may consider replacing the sensor anyway for safe measure, they should be 17 bucks or so, and may be listed as a nissan part(as was alleyboy's) somebody around here should have a part number for the ecu thermo sensor

if you notice there are an inner and outer doj, one is more tapered than the other. but doj and all theinternals will swap between axles, the only difference between ea81 and ea81 axles is th elength of the axle shaft itself and as far as rear trailing arms go, all ea81(4wd's) are the same you can also fit an ea82 lower control arm if you ream out the mounting hole on the frame and use the larger ea82 bolt, the 3 bolts on the side fit s the same, ea82's have bigger drum brakes(or disc)

congrats on your new score! whats your plans with it? keep it away from the carbola, cause someone may JUNK it! (or hold the key ransom)

the fuel pump and ign relays are on a little bracket on the steering column itelf, just above the ecu(ecm) 3 nuts hold it up, one of them may have a ground wire(either there or on the bolt for the column itself the distributor sends a signalt to the ecu for the fuel pump to operate while its spinning. there are also green test mode clips under the dash, plug them in, and the fuel pump should cycle on and off when the key is in RUN pos.

on the 4wd conversion sedan we used a drill and a chisel to separate the stock mounts from the 88 wagon, and welded them to the sedan and used self tapping screws. about burned the car to the ground, should have removed the carpet!! needless to say all the McD trash didnt help matters

lookin at jims there looks to be 2 roll puns thru the side. on my 4wd pushbutton 5spd there was a pin, i had to use an assortment of nails and screws to punch it out, for lack of the proper punch

it works the the same both ways, we got the rx pump in the loyale, and an spfi pump in the turbo wago

here is some material to refer to if you run into problems http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

do you plan to do the work your self, or have it serviced by a professional?

the haynes manual will have a procedure for checking the tps, such as a closed throttle voltage, a WOT voltage, and resistences between. not so much a calibration but a check to see if its within spec

usually anyone who buys a new subaru has always had a subaru. there are a lot of people who are fanatical about subarus, but they dont know about eachother. i will bet you a subscription that if you go to walmart or wherever and see someone getting in/out their soob, they will be like "yeah, i love these things, i used to have brat and i loved it" or "this is my 5th one" something similar. so if some peole dont have an older soob at the moment, im sure they remember them well! look around this forum and that will give you plenty of representation for what SHOULD be in a subaru magazine