MilesFox

the mounting holes for the TPS are slotted, you can loosen the screws and move the tps one way or the other. on ours it semed to help. sometimes it will dook out, but not as bad. its not hard to replace, but you may want to take off the alternator an get a short screwdriver to access it. the turbo itself has no electricals or whatever, it's driven by exhaust pressure, the turbo would not send a code to the ECU you can search for code reading, its posted all over the place, somewhere there is a chart that explains the codes.

i disconnected the fuel line to my tank, nothing comes out, but if i knock on the tank it seems there may be some left. but i havent drained it at all at the plug

the 4wd tank has a smaller capacity than the 2wd, buint theindentation for the differential. the sender can be removed rom the back of the tank. also ea81's have a drain plug in the tank on the way back from montana, my car took on average 10-11 gal of gas, the gauge was screwy, we ran out of gas 3 times before we realized the gauge was screwy(2wd car, 4wd conv, gas tank) maybe it had to do with therate we used fuel. at home around town the gauge went all the way down before running out of gas

sorry, dont hve a camera for this one, you'll see it on the movie being made. its now on jims wagon. but here is the first one i built, a bit crude, but it worked! http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon4/cwdata/driveshaft.html

maybe the throttle position sensor. is it turbo? sometimes mine will dook out just to hit all at once when i hit the gas. was a bad TPS

i bet they are the ones that go UNDER the faceplate for the heater controls, under the bottom edge

now i have the driveshaft installed using my home-made carrier mount leftover from trashagon 5, add diff oil, connect speedo cable i got reverse lights working on both wagons, i was able to use the fwd wiring with the dual range in the dl. on the GL i used the dual range wiring for the reverse, but cutt off the other connectors as we may use them for an indicator light for the 4wd in the DL i got the xt seats swapped into rhe DL. i used the tracks off some gl-10 seats to preserve the height adjastable. on the driver seat, i had to bend the slider locking tabs out a little, as the gl-10 mechanism interferes slightly with teh xt's height ajustable. the cable that connects toe two had to be re-bent to take out a few millimeters of slack. on the paseenger seat, the gl-10 tracks are shorer, so i had to drill holes and use nuts with the screws, and on the inside track i had to use a nut to space the difference betwee the track and the base of the seat, using a 12mm bolt and a nut. tomorrow im going to find some anchors to swap the roof rack outer rails to the dl, if i cant find them then i wull use short bolts and locknuts like we used on the sedan and the RX. also i will swap out the back seats, didnt do it today because i didnt get that far, but i got an aftermarket tape deck instaled in the DL. i also installed athe missing bolt on the diff hanger and another bolt in the engine crossmember(had to drill the old one out) saturday we will be swapping another compressor into the turbo wagon, we have an xt for a parts source and are considering changing it all to the flat belt system. also we will change the bulbs in the instrument cluster that butned out from a bad alternator, and swap in a better radiator from the XT

yo, since you are considering a (5spd)dual range, you can go with an ea82 motor, its rev happiness goed hand in hand with the 5spd, and in my opinion, ea82's are better with the 5spd than the ea81. some will tell you that 4spd dual range is better, its suitable for the ea81. just my opinion, i had both ea82 motor and 5spd d/r in an 82 wagon, complete with ea82 suspension as well. peep my website in the sig.

its not the best picture, but here is my cd installation. the cd player is flush with the console, but hte console sits about a half inch out forward. there is also a CB in the console also. i had to disassemble the console to get it all mounted, the cd is fixed rather well, so if you wanted to break in my car and steal my cd, you will have to take the whole console if you want to make a quick getaway! i accidentally knocked out the knockout that would be the power mirror, but i put a big sticker over that to disguise it.

if you decide yo go with a junkyard driveshaft, all you will need is the rear half from the carrier back. the rear half is the same length for any model, auto and manual.

being an injected system it wouldnt mind smooth passages vs a carb head. if you look down the intake port you will see some high spots that can be blended down. remove the valves and get them from there too, blend in around the valve guides. dont worry about the cracks between the valves, they may extend down to the valve guides themselves, but that is normal. use the snake atatchment for the dremel so the bulk of the tool itself doesnt get in the way. i used the "roto-zip" style bit to machine away the bulk, and then the cone stones to smooth it out, and sanding drums to finish up. my application was mpfi turbo, and so far our heads on carb block have seen WELL over 10,000 miles in the past monts since feb 04, and nwvwr had any problems look around on this page and you will see the ported heads http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/87rx001.html

there are a lot of "unconventional" modifications around this board, i.e: withthere being no aftermarket for most of the ea series, it could have a lot of "car craft style" do it yourself lo-budget articles. some examples would be the 5spd conversions and turbo motors using carb short blocks, and ea82 motors in ea81 bodies, etc. a lot of the mods such as the 5spd conversions have been "standardized" and would make for goot tech-write ups or how-tos in the magazine there is a lot of thechnology around here that has been pioneered by us board members, there needs to be a magazine that focuses on something other than late model big budget type stuff

jury trial set for oct 17, 2004. dammit i will be another year older. i personally think the courts will f* up with my multiple cases. wouldnt be surprised if next year rolls around before i see the judge, or my lawyer for that matter. see you in fort wayne

another day, more work done: now BOTH suspensions have been successfully swapped, i swapped them as an entire unit. the 4wd suspensions in the DL brought the back end up a few inches to match the height of the front suspension. i had to drill some holes in the back and use some bolts to mount the diff hanger. its all mounted and drilled out, but i lost one of the bolts. so there are 3 there now. the holes meet even with the plastic trim around the inside wheel wells, and the carpet fits over the heads nicely. i swapped the dual range center console to the dl as well. the seats are out so i can drill holes for trashwagon's carrie mount, i will do that first thing in the morning. once mounted, i will go thru the motions of swapping the seat tracks to the XT seats, and will swap rear split seats from the gl to the DL. we may swap the roof rack from the gl to the dl, the outer tracks, and if so, i will swap theheadliner and map lites as well. this will complete the DL. the GL needs another brake bleed as the pedal is a little spongey, i will start with the master cylinder this time

try the one man bleeder, you may have to do it a few times. dont feel bad, i just bled 2 soobs today, and one is stilla bit spongey. it can be tricky sometimes, i will have to bleed them again, although the braking system is a known good one and i have sucessfully bled them before(i had to bleed because of a suspension swap this time) the other car is fine doing the same procedure. one was drum, the other was disc. the drum brake is the one that is soft at this point. i started with the passenger rear, driver front, driver rear, and passenger front, in that order. i didnt bleed the MC, but i will do that fist on my next attempt with the drum brake. but on both these cars i had all 4 brake lines disconnected at one point during the suspension swaps

ok as you may have read i am swapping 4wd 5spd d/r into fwd, and vise versa. the plug ins are different on each car/tranny. would nayone have a schematic so i can either splice the connectors to the other trannies, or wie them up mysel to a switch. a schematic will do nicely

josh (1abaja) is gonna do the same thing, put an ej22 in his 93 1.8 impreza. he called ccrinc and they said the physical structure of the motor is the same, only the bore is different, and all the ecu and wiring connectors work the same i dont think he would have dropped over 200 bucks on gaskets and seals and another 250 for the motor if it wouldnt work. go for it. i will be the one putting josh's togehter myself, so we're in the same boat

well, Tom, i would be happy to come over for a little and fix up some soobs. i'm always availabl, just let me know if you could ever. sorry we havent gotten together in a while. maybe i can talk danny into going on a weekend sometime, my license is suspended or otherwise i would drop by so often and see whats up alleyboy has me lined up here around the 4th, i'm bailing out of the carbola and i will take the sedan to my mom's, and take the RX with me to fort wayne and find work there as i stay with zanny dook.

NAPA has lengths of seel line from 6 inches to 3 feet. my turbo wagon had a replacement line, and the other one leaked. i fixed that, and then the fuel line leaked. but if you do the process of elimintation and fix it all, you wont have to wory about it till MANY years later swing by jim's and i'll have a look. i can fix it for you for CHEAP. i'll be here at jims thru the week

well if they over-engineered it the first time, then that is all they had to do to have a similar desighn through 20 years. i think subarus are very well engineered, but not overly complicated. but i will tell you the truth, im scared to take a tranny apart!

if th4 brakes wont hold pressure and you are SURE you bled them right, suspect the master cylinder. like if you pump the brakes and it holds, just to not hold the next time and you nhave to pump them again. bleeding soob brakes can be tricky, if the pedal still feels smongy after multiple bleeds may i suggest the "one man bleder kit" you can watch the air bubbles come out of the tube and into the bottle, and watch the fluid get clear as you run new through

everything we find around herre is mostly lt blue with blue interior. sometimes we will get lucky and find a whiter or grey soob, but its always the same blue interior.

on my turbo wagon when i had the arb motor, i used a toggle switch for the carb's pump. then i put in the turbo motor, and ran the turbo pump to the stock wiring. it worked enough to get the car running, but by the time it was ready to drive, it quit working, so i just wired it to my existing toggle. on the rx, with trashwagon's carb, i just run it off the + coil terminal. i dont have a relay, but the + coil or anythig that comes on with the key on the fuse box would be ideal(my coil connection used an alligator lip, so if i have problems i can o the battery if i chose)

yeah, the idiot lights will glow as the regulator goes out. i would doubt the egr. replace the alt and then go from there, see if the egr light stays on

sure beats being under the car thru the morning thats for sure. i figure the more time i take on this project the longer i can stay out of trouble in butler. i needed a break from the butler scene anyway. nice change of pace for me, doing the same thing, just somewhere else, not so high-profile over here.