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MilesFox

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Everything posted by MilesFox

  1. You have all the parts from the donor to physically swap. Carry over the driveshaft with the trans. The engne will be plug and play, but you will lose the EGR, gain a CEL. You will also have to defeat the neutral safety switch by jumpering the harness at the shifter, or making a push button directly to the starter. The ej25 may be prone to premature head gasket failure. You can, if you wish, swap the ej22 heads onto the ej25 block. You will gain compression, and be able to keep the dual port header, and keep the original intake and retain the EGR valve as to not have a check engine light.
  2. Would anyone know the resistance value for the thermistor, that if my wiring harness checks out, i'll be fine with shoving a resistor in the plug and call it a day. My car is loaded down with half another one, so it will be a day or 2 before i can inspect it.
  3. anything with MLS head gaskets, which would be 1996-98 legacy, gt, and forester, or anything later than that. 1995 or 96 legacy or 95-99 impreza would be your best bet all around.
  4. common failure. solders break off. re-solder to fix
  5. Impreza axles will work if you change the innner seal on the hubs to match, or use ipreza hubs. The driveshaft will have to be shortened 55mm. The trans crossmember will be a hybrid between an xt6 and wrx, so far as i know, and fits in 87 and up bodies with the wider trans tunnel (for 4eat) for the rear, you would probably have to either hybrid the rear axles, or swap the guts from the wrx diff into an ea82 case.
  6. Oh, and one more thing, is circuit A in the main sender unit, or the secondary unit. I never did swap the secondary sender, but i have it off the original tank already.
  7. The sender on the old tank was broken for the variable resistor, but the thermistor did work. I don't want to risk damaging it by removing the assembly again if i can avoid it. I find it stupid that my registration is illegal over a code that is irrelevant to the engine's emissions performance. The original sender unit was damaged by replacing the fuel pump upon re-installation, before i owned the car. I swapped the units when both tanks were out-of-car. I would like to avoid removing the sender if i can, as to not damage this one. I'll double check the pigtail as that is a variable in this equation.
  8. you can make a modern stereo fit, but it will stick out about 3/4 inch. Some have gone as far as cutting a hole in the heater box to recess it. There are some slanted consoles kicking arond for sale, but rate. Personally, i am not a fan of chopping up a factory console if i can avoid it. The knock out blank is or power mirror switch. Make sure you understand the common ground speaker wiring if you are attempting to connect the radio to the factory harness. There are a few recent posts about 'common ground'
  9. This video explains installing and packing the bearings, as well as inserting the axle at the end. It should give you an idea of how rough you can be without damaging anything as this is the required method without using shop presses. Sometimes an aftermarket axle fits more loosely depending on if it has been machined or not. The video demonstrates re-using the seals. There are a few variables with fitment, but nothing would be damaged using these techniques.
  10. My reference is to the rear edge of the window
  11. I cleared the engine codes in my car to have the p0180 code remain active immediately after clearing it. From my research, this code is relevant to a fuel temp circuit A. http://engine-codes.com/p0180.html My gas tank has been swapped from a 95. The car's original fuel pump and sender is swapped in, as well as all the vent lines retrofitted to match the 96's purge canister system under the car. I also swapped the car's original fuel tank harness onto the new tank. I have noticed my yellow warning lamp hasn't come on after running 400 miles on the same tank of gas (still hard to believe!) MY car is required to pass emissions, for which my registration is illegal right now. Any ideas of grounding a wire or adding a resistor to fool the ECM? I was trying to tackle a p0420 code, but it seems i was able to clear that one (straight pipes, no cats, w/both o2's present)
  12. My 86 gl coupe has an ej22, using an xt6 fuel pump. The car was originally a carb 1.8, using the same lines, although i had to make some adapter fittings between the body and the engine. The fuel pump is connected directly to the car, and the ej harness is spliced into the bdy harness to run the fuel pump. I made my connection form the harness fuel pump relay to the body harness under the carpet near the door sill on the passenger side.
  13. The hatch and the coupe should have a vertical b pillar, whereas the brat b pillar is pitched forward. Correct me if i am wrong. It has been a good 10 years since i have seen a coupe in person.
  14. I am assuming the rumbling was at a stop while in gear. Otherwise, if you are getting a misfire while driving, suspect the spark plug wires. Use only NGK brand for replacement, as these engines are finicky about plug wires. You will know this is a misfire if the check engine light is blinking in real time with the misfire. Good luck and i wish you many miles
  15. Loosen the bottom bolt on the knuckle, and remove the top one. The top bolt is cammed, and there should be marks on the bolt and knuckle. Otherwise, paint a line and re-alighn that mark when re-installing. I do axles myself, eyeball alignment, works well for me. You can do one axle at a time. Both left and right axles are interchangeable.
  16. That is a remarkable low mileage considering my 98 forester has 240,000 on the clock. Considering the miles and the age, the car my have sat for long periods of time. Please state if she is a manual or automatic. For sake of discussion, i'll assume an automatic trans. The engine should know if the car is in gear or not, therefore adjusting the idle in neutral or park up a notch when in gear for the load against the torque converter. The idle will be controlled by the idle air control valve which is located near the throttle body. This part my be slow to respond if it needs a good cleaning, causing the idle to fluctuate in gear. If this is the case, try soaking the component in sea foam deep creep (in the spray can, or remove it fro the throttle body and clean it by hand, and replace the gasket. It is simply an electric solenoid with a pintle valve. Along with this, it would be a good idea to replace the engine temperatire sensor as preventive maintenance, since this communicates with the engine computer the temp for cold and hot starts, and also control the idle air control valve. This part should be 20-25 bucks at parts counter, and can be installed with a 17mm wrench. Also, considering the age and mileage of the engine, i would suggest a total coolant change to avoid any cooling issues, as old coolant can lead to head gasket corrosion failutes, and the engine in the 98 forester is known or head gasket premature failure.
  17. This is true with ea82 coupe at least. Not sure with ea81 unless it is being confused with the fact for ea82. I would assume ea81's are all the same. It should be true that hatch and coupe glass are the same for the doors. The hatch and the brat have the same rake, but the b pillar angle is different between brat/hatch
  18. Otherwise, if you can trade your engine for a whole 95 ej22 with intake manifold, it will be a direct swap. a 96-99 ej22 with manifold is also a plug0in swap, but you will have to swap over to a single port header to match the exhaust. Another option would be to find a pair of dual port ej22 heads(90-95) and a 95-98 2.2 intake manifold and swap onto the ej251 block
  19. You got the idea, but you will have to separate the ball joint or the control arm to get room. My preference is doing the ball joint, but be prepared to ruin the boot depending on your methods. You can either pop it out with a pickle fork, whack the control arm sharply with a hammer, or undo the pinch bolt separating the all joint from the knuckle rather than the control arm. To remove the axle from the hub, drive it out with a hammer and a block of wood. same for installation, drive it in from behind, OR, install the inner end, and drive the knuckle onto the axle with a hammer and block of wood. once you get the axle in enough, you can use the castle nut to draw it in further, then temove the nut, install the washers, and torque it up. Pay attention to the orientation of the flat washer, as it is actually dished (spring washer) with the convex side towards the nut and the concave side towards the cone washer. This video may hep you although it is an ea82 car, but procedure is similar (separating the ball joint)
  20. mating a ej engine to either a 4spd or 5spd trans will use the same bellhousing adapter. You will use a flywheel and clutch according to which trans you are using. a 5spd trans does swap into an ea81 car, you must use the 5spd's 2 piece driveshaft and invent a carrier bearing mount, or have the 4spd's driveshaft shortened 55mm You will use the 4sp'ds trans crossmember mount on the 5spd. There is a 'jerry's kit' available by a board member to use the original shifter and 4x4 lever with the 5sp. if you are using an AWD or full time 4wd trans, you will need toswap in a 3.7 rear diff, and hybrid the axles together to match a 25 spline, or swap the stub axles. The car's original axles are 23 splines EDIT: ^^^^ this above explains using a dual range ea82 5spd. If using an ej 5spd, you won't need the bellhousing, but for sure, you will need a modified driveshaft, and modified axles, or swap in 23 spline axle stubs into the ej trans, and you will need a matching ej rear diff with the correct ratio, and swap the proper axle shafts, or swap the ring and pinion into the car's original rear end. This may require some grinding, otherwise swap the guts into a ea82 rear diff.
  21. The 06/87 engine will be an 88 model year. The 01/87 will be an 87 model year. The engine itself is identical, but for 87, some of the pinouts on the harnesses may be different, although schematically identical. For example, the distributor has a round plug for 87 and a square plug for 88 and up. Same for the engine temp sensor, and the knock sensor may be a single pin vs a double pin. When in doubt, use the car's original intake manifold or wire harness on a newer engine.
  22. any 95-98 2.2 and 2.5 will plug and play, with the only exception to whether the engine has an egr vave or not, but will still plug anfd play, save for a check engine lite for the EGR Bellhousing and motor mounts fit the same. use the 2.5 torque converter and flex plate on the 2.2 so it matches your trans. any 1990-98 2.2 engine will work, as long as you have an obd2 95-98 2.2 intake. a 2.5 intake harness will swap over to any 90-98 2.2 intake manifold. you must use a 2.2 intake manifold as a 2.5 does not bolt onto the 2.2 for example, my 98 forester has a block from a 97 outback(2.5) with 2.2 heads and intake form a 95 2.2.
  23. I meant door glass. windshield should be the same. rear glass is obviously different
  24. All of the body from the doors forward swap. but glass is different. all of the engine and driveline will swap over, but the gas tank is different good luck
  25. The coolant running off the top of the block would suspect the skinny hose on the top of the block to thermostat, but if you think you have a blown head gasket, i wouldn't rule out a bad intake gasket losing coolant externally. Are you sure the oil leak is not the cam tower o-ring? Speaking of perplexing, i had a carb apart and back together trying to be un-perplexed, to find the intake gasket was bad.
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