MilesFox

both cars now run and move under their own power. the GL is now all bolted down in the font, shifter hooked up, parking brake hooked up i ended up swapping the clutch cable and pedal itself between the 2. as far as the carpets go, jim is not worried about that, so i wont be doing that. a solution would be to find another console piece and use the boot and plate from a pushbutton 5spd. only a few plastics need to be swapped now, we wrapped it up about 10:00 ohio time. tomorrow i will put both cars rear in the air, and swap the whole rear suspension as an assembly. i figure about 3 hours of continuous work, maybe 2 hours. at least i can take my time all week vs doing a headgasket job and new seals whle swapping a tranny and having it running all on one day on a weekend like i have done before.

start with a better exhaust. you can only draw in as much air as you can move out the tail i use a stock y pip with a 2 1/4 inch cherry bomb immediately after, and 3 inch pipe after that. the ypipe will get my scavenging, the bomb will get my backpressure and exhaust pulse, and the 3 inch pip elets it all flow out. remove the ductwork that connects the airbox to the inner fender. take the box off completely and put one of those autozone holley triangle filter assemblies wait till you blow a head gasket and poke the heads out with a dremel as you fix the head gasket

i was here about a montha go performing a swap of 4wd spfi dual range into a dl fwd 5spd wagon, and vice versa. here is where i left off -both engine/tranny/crossmember assemblies have been swapped between both cars. the struts and kbnuckles are swapped, the dl is tightened up, the gl wagon sits loosely threaded together. this saved me from having to drop the y pipe and unbolting the bellhousings- ok, here i am to pick up from where i left off. the DL motor was mostly put together. i finished conneting the heater hose, and swapped battery cables form the tx turbo. i got it to start and it ran hoiribbly, backfiring and kicking back and stalling. swapped the MAF with a good one and same results. turns out the #2 and #4 plug wires were on reversely. so now it runs like a charm, ran it ti OT and topped off the coolant. with the d/r trans in the fwd 5spd body, there is no mount for the carrier bearing. of course i knew this from the fwd3at to 4wd 5spd conversion sedan. i brought with me my carrier mount that i fabricated for the trashwagon. the dl has no center console, and the shifter boot meets the carpet. i had to remove the boot retainer to get the d/r levers thru the hole and secured. all the d/r console will fit, but all the dl stuff has to go back into the other wagon. so i am going to have to swap carpets so the other wagon doesnt have a big gaping hole in the carpet where the center console wont be. so far the DL has the shifter mount and parking brake cables hooked up. the clutch cables are a bit different, as the fwd 5spd cable mount is on the left of the trans, and the d/r is in the middle. right now one cable is too long, and the other is too short. i may drop the steering columns and change the whle pedal boxes, since the steering wheel is upside down from the frame swap. if i'm feeling lazy i will attempt to swap the cables themselves, but i still have to drop the steering columns i plan on having all the font ends of both cars put together, running and driving. then i will park them rump roast out in the garage and swap the entire rear suspension assemblies. the gl wagon right now has the 4wd parts still on, with xt swaybar,trailing arms, and rear disc brakes, and rebuilt axles. it will be less work to remove 8 bolts rather than swap the trailing arms themselves, as i will need the tube assembly anyway for the diff mount. 2 pennies and a vise grip will pinch off the fuel lines since the rubber line runs to a steel line that is fixed to the tube frame. im kind of stuck at this moment, as i cant find the alt/ac assembly for the GL, so i cant do much with getting it running, and the DL is so loaded down with parts that i cant fold the seats up to remove the carpet. i guell i will work on the clitch cables so i can move the DL, and then remove the driveshat on the GL so we can move it around. once i get done with boththese cars in a running and driving state, then i'll bring the turbo xt in and take it apart

never got around to the sedan, it and the rest of trashwagon will hgave to sit till i return from jim's trash3dor is now 100% complete, other than the proposed addition of tweeters, rear anus lights, and the rest of my stereo hookups. one of my amps took a dimp, after an exaspirating experience mounting it to the ceiling. see you at jim's

maybe the ign fuse was blown? not to argue, but it worked on my 87 gl-10 mpfi turbo, and my 83 wagon with ea82 motor from an 86. never tried it on spfi though. try another soob and i bet a dollar i dont have that it will work!what i myself would do is try the jumper wire trick, and if that didnt work, then tear the steering column apart.

shoot foam in all the crevices, put rudders for front tires, put a propeller on the driveshaft and 4wd. fill up the gas tank for more flotation and that will sure get you 90 miles down the way!we all know about the sea foam treatment, but not literally:grin:

corky, dont forget ea81t sigle port (injectors in head) vs ea82t dual port(injectors in manifold) . you could possibly swap the ea82 wiring harness, throttle body to the ea81 manifold, and plug it in to the existing injectors(are the same), using the existing fuel rail. i believe shadow should know something about the cross-compatability with these 2 engines. you should also get away with using the existing ea82 ps/alt/ace components on the ea81t block

tell the boss a broken belt means bent valves. its subaru heresy, but he wont know better. but its well known around here that its impossible to bend valves in an ea82 motor, non interference

pop the distributor cap and crank the motor, and see if it spins. easy way to tell if the belt's broken

i had the opposite idea, to use an ea82 in an ea81t. what year? if the xt is an 86, i think it would be a close match component wise, if not all plug and play. but the 85-86 mpfi turbo is pretty much the same thing as ea81 mpfi turbo, from what i gather but i have put ea81 in ea82 body using ea82 components, so that is where my expertise may help you the most

looks like a departure from cuba

Blasphemy!

i was just guessing!

take off the skid plate. if the pipe has to come off and out of the car, unbolt the turbo from the cross pipe, let the turbo sit where it is. if anything take the nuts off the motor mounts and the motor up a few inches. we fixed a exhaust gasket and replaced 2 studs, which had to be tapped out to the next size, all with the motor in the car and the pipe on the motor. take a stus out, remove old gasket, slip in new gasket, install new stud. it was more difficult trying to get a box-end wrench on the nut than anything. tokk within an hour to do both sides, one 14mm wrench and one 14mm socket if the studs are good (they stayed in the motor when the nuts come off) then i recommend the first procedure.

trashwagon did the same thing till i replaced the rotor. i thought maybe it was smacking the caliper bracket, thin solid rotor = warpage.

loyale dismissed the dual range, the center console, roof rack and rear speakers. think a DL with a tachometer. aotomatic seat belts are annoying, the tall armrest console gets in the way. unless you find one that has "standard" options as special order 1200-1500 bucks if its not rusty and under 100,000 mi we got one for free, but we had to put a motor in it to drive it home. otherwise it was going to be a $1200 car at the dealer we got it from(VA car with a broken taillight and a rust spot)

and i quote from the loyale manual "towing trailers or any other vehicle with your Subaru is NOT RECOMMENDED (4th gear, 2wd lo range, ea82 rear coilovers, had to pull over to keep the sheriff from tailing me. parking brake aint no joke when its all you got!) DAMMIT i forgot to buy insurance. no more for omni source, them bastards!

myoss feece behind the wheel, that one wasnt so bad, all the plume of iowa dirt took the brunt of the impact. but the next run with me behind the wheel was a lot worse since the first run shaved a portion of the mound away. pushed the bumper up a but, but no worry. well, once we got home and got arrested and baled out and got the car out of impound and installed a driveshaft and rear axles to complete the 4wd conversion, she bit it a lot harder in the pit in st joe, further pushing th e bumper up some more. well, i fixed it with a section of railroad tie bungeed down to tha battery trat and a sledgehammer, straightened her right up. car looked good until i ro-neeced my b-pillar powersliding into trogdors blindly parked wagon's bumper, just to hit a tree shortly thereafter. let me say that there was no alcohol involved in iowa, and now she has donated her goodies to a beefed up 3-door as corky would call it, watered down rx as anyone else would call it, the "TRASH3DOOR" , "T3D", and "fastback 2-door wagon(trashwagon7[superficially]) as i would call it sorry tim, trashwagon 5 has got to go, she has sen her purpose and her day. the story has been told, but the leganus continues! i see trashwagon8 in iowa (trashwagon will skip a number, as trash3door is unoficially trashwagon7, and subiemech has claimed deebo on trashwagon7 moniker himself. can we say carpeted 83 turbo wagon, ea82T and 5spd, and can we say ea82 spfi(or maybe ej22 and ft 5spd) 84 GL-10 sedan with 5lugs(trashwagons modified front suspension) and from 2wd 5spd converted(trashwagon's rump roast end) and dual exhaust? *i got a set of nice chrome bumpers and a taillight!* anyway the car will soon be junk. omni-source cant have her, as they ripped me off out of my aluminum. i think the railroad tracks would be a more respectable demise! (how do you take the vin plate off?) ok, i guess omni-souce will have to do, but not without a bunch of rocks, bricks, and dead batteries!

you could just go with an ea82 motor, my opinion. but it looks like you already have an ea81 to go with. save on the labor costs and take a crack at taking the block apart yourself. some of the bolts will hide in the passages in the deck. have a subaru experienced mechanic put it together for you. an ea82 intake/carb will bolt on the same. but you will have to mount your disty 180 off, firing order 180 from the cap, and flip the mounting tab upside down backwards, to clear the water neck. also, the egr will have to be removed and blocked off so it doesnt interfere with the bellhousing

you could just go with an ea82 motor, my opinion. but it looks like you already have an ea81 to go with. save on the labor costs and take a crack at taking the block apart yourself. some of the bolts will hide in the passages in the deck. have a subaru experienced mechanic put it together for you.

yes it will work. but on loyales, you need the clutch pushed in, but that shouldnt matter. worked for me on the gl-10 turbo. wrecked a trashwagon and it shorted out the ign. turn the key and pops fuses. hotwired the coil and drove it home. ask snotrocket and trogdor. on ea81s if you jump one of the terminals on the pink clip, the car keeps running with the key off. you may be able to turn the "male" part that fits into the ign switch itself with a pair of pliers. i did this in my ea81, bit the cylinder may have been worn. (screwdriver worked in the keyhole once)

maybe the car was stolen? pop the hood. jump the + coil terminal to the battery. that will bring the ign circuit alive(run pos) jump the starter at the little tab on the back(black clip) this way you can start the car with no key and the doors locked (if the hood is open first)

had a DL and if you cranked on it too long(trying to start it after putting it together, wrong timing) it would just click after a few hard cranks. let it cool off and it would work until it got hot again.

you may want to consider a new water pump, or at least take it off and check it out, if the conditions persist after a flush/newer radiator a blown head gasket may blow combustion gasses into the cooling system(if no burning coolant or coolant in the oil) causing it to puke the overflow. napa also has block sealer, follow the directions precisely, but if that fixes the problem by itself, then suspect the head gasket. it will also get you by till you get the parts around to fix it. costs you about 6 bucks

i put ea81 motors into ea82 bodies, using ALL ea82 components. both used the round style inboard compressors. aside from my application using the ea82 water pump, here is what you will do: take off all the ea81 original anciliary devices. the ea82 ac/alt bracket will fit on the holes on the ea81 heads, the 12mm bolt on the top, and one of the 14mm on the front. the alternator and ac will be slightly spaced forward past the crank pulley, but its not that bad of an offset. now, the alternator will sit farther back with the ea82 brqcketry, but an alt with the 2 pulley(non ac equipped ea82) will make up that space(i welded a double pulley for mine. everything will be in line for use of the ea82 power steering pump(use the ea82 lines, run them to the ea81 rack) take a good look at an ea81 turbo, as it uses the ea82 style ps pump, and alt bracketry. that will give you an idea of how it will all fit to the ea81 block this is how it all physically fits to the motor, but i dont know if the ea82 air conditioning lines will match up to an (ac equipped) ea81. mine used ea81 motor with ea82 components in an ea82 body. i would suggest having all the parts at hand for comparison before you make the conversion, but its not impossible at all