MilesFox

OIL FILTERS napa silver 1361 napa gold 21361 wix 51361 fram is a no-no. save them for the ford taurus

let's hear more about the ea82 suspension. how'd you do it for the gen 1?

i plan on putting the sedan together today, i got my o-ring for the replacement cam tower, i would like to have at leasts the motor dropped in and the intake hooked up. but i am waiting on an oil pump seal before i can mount the pump and the timong belts. but the car itself is has been complete, so all i have to do is get it running sunday is clean up day, monday i will move my personal stuff from the apartment to the carbola, and take off to ohio for a week

the rx, TRASH3DOOR (myoss feece invented the name) is now some 90% complete i mounted the 100 watt baja lights and a pair of fog lights under the bumper, all wired up, but i need a fuse. all my wiring is nice and clean, invisible. there is a power terminal near the latch for the top of the rear seat, that is live from the battery via an amp cable, and it runs the cb and map lights. the pre-existing amp switxh now controls the neon light, and it will control the remote wire for the amp that will go on the ceiling. the rca cables run up along the trim for the rear window, and the amp will pwer from the terminal strip the fuel pump is wired to the coil. one of the fog the baja lights goes to a lighted button and a relay. they turn off with key in run position. the fogs are connected to the battery all of my accent lighting runs off the fuse panel and comexs on with the run position the cb antenna is magnetic mount, and it mounts tucked under the rear wing, the wire sneaks under the wing thru its mounting hole, and inside the hatch about halfway, then tucked into the rubber seal. what's left to do so far is get my amp from zanny dook, and connect my sleeper 8"s under the seats. still have to wire up the cd player. carpet the other door, and its blue light i need to find some plywood for the rear and cut a carpet. the motor now runs like a charm, but something leaks colant, either the water pipe or the pump itself. it had a slight dribble last year's road trip but leaks profusely now oh, gotta bleed the brakes yet....................... wouldnt you know that no sooner thn i got the damn thing driving for the first time, it broke down by the tracks, wire came off, then i flooded it and about ran the battery down. so i leave it sit for a moment and OFFICE PLANCK is scoping my car. damn him, i go to intervene and i "will be charged with trespassing on railroad property" whatever oh well, i know of plenty of places to park a car that is tow-truck-proof!

i put trashwagon's motor in the rx, didnt idle good, ran choppy. i pulled some wires and there was no change at the #3 cyl. took the plug out and tried it on the wagon, no problem. i was running bosch platinums, the same ones that took TW% out west and back, and for a lap baja'n. tried an NGK. both seemed good. found out my problem: the wire itself was up against the egr tube off the head, and burned thru, amking intermittent ground. black tape and a re-route and shes all good! almost suspected the bosch, but i like them anyway

dammit that i dont have a drivers license. otherwise i would try to make it. cant be more than 4 hours away. good luck with your motor:)

keep all the little nuts and bolts and screws, stock subaru bits are invaluable if you work on a lot of them. keep small stuff like the heater resistor packs, ol' jim cant get enough of those! i like to keep the rear cargo carpets for hauling dirty stuff, or as replacements for dirty ones

if you do away with the spacer you can compensate by using an ea82 y-pipe to clear the crossmember

myoss feece and i noticed on ein the newly acquired 91 lotale, its in a pouch that snaps to the floorpan just under the pass rear seat. the only thing i could think of subaru having an allen head is the bolts that hold the seat tracks to the seat. but i saw it only in the loyale. i wonder if it has to do with the power seatbelt system? for some kind of adjustment or manual reel

build in the summer, drive in the winter!

one thing i noticed about the ea82 is its a pain in the A to bust one apart with a SLEDGEHAMMER. seriously, i see that it has 3 mains, but its not like some little cap is holding it together, but rather a whole HALF AN ENGINE. i dont think an ea case could be held together with any more blolts! i like the ea82 myself, did the carb block with turbo swap, super reliability, no pinging, pump gas. if i were to build up some mongoliod HP engine, i wouldnt find it too hard to just swap a whole short block if i had reliability issues. does anyone remember the post about the modified combustion chambers? i think that with an spfi block would make an ideal turbo application myself

i will pop the ball joint, thierods, then remove the axle. i will use a punch to knock out the bearing from either side of the knuckle(on the car). it may ba stubborn as the bearing will push the seal out of its way. rotate the knuckle around and do the other side. for installation i will tap them with the axle socket to seat them, install the axle as usual. use new seals because the only bad bearings i have seen had bad seals it takes me no mor ethan 5 min longer than just changing the axle.(per side)

so the Rx runs now with tw5's motor and tranny. tw6's 5lugs wont swap because i need another 23 spline doj from an ea82 TURBO 3at. so i used the knuckles of the tw5, and a pair of height adjustable struts from an 86. i gots CARPET on the floors, ceiling and the driver sid4e door. blue pimp lighting in the dash vent and under the steering column. I have a van console mounted securely to the headliner and it acommodates a CB and 2 map lights. the way-back will be fully carpeted, lighted, and i am re-making the cargo hold covers from 1/4" plywood all thats left is the shifter mount, slip the driveshaft in and the 2 carrier bolts. exhaust y-pipe and cherry bombi have to swap a trailing arm from tw5, cause the rx's has a bad bearing. i will be using an xt6 swaybar in the back the wagon will keep the 5-lugs, and the rx suspension will be pull-off until i get the right DOJ the wagon now has the RX tranny, and the motor is out on a stand, and has the exhaust gaskets/studs redone. the passenger strut assy is off for now, till we get the tranny lined up to the other axle. still have to swap in the LSD and the 'nus lift from the RX

last week we had a 91 loyale Given to us, we hauled the motor from the sedan and installed it, drove it back in one day. but as you know, this being butler, the car got pulled over no more than making it halfway across town for the first time. turns out that danny's license was suspended the day before. turns out that josh happens to show up and save it from the impound. anyway........ the sedan sits witn no motor. trashwagon 5 sits all wrecked up. the rx sits with no motor. trashwagon 6 is no longer my car. before the week is over we will be driving a trashwagonRX, and a beefed up 3-door(TRASH3DOOR). this is how it goes.. so far in the last 2 days the motor and tranny from trashwagon 5(carb ea82, 5spd d/r) now sit in the RX. i will be swapping the xt6 5-lug suspension from the wagon to the rx, and i will have to swap 4wd ea82 doj onto the xt6 axles to work with the dual range. trashwagon 6 already has the RX's motor, it will lose the ft5spd from the xt6 and receive the d/r from the RX, and it will also get the 4-lug suspension from the rx. the original motor from the loyale will find its way into the sedan, with new seals. by the end of the night we should have the motor out of tw6 and on a stand to fix the exhaust studs, the ft transd out and the rx trans in, and the front strut assys swapped between the 2, and have them both running. that is the goal for tonite. i have to wait till danny's license is back(just finished defensive driving) to go get the loyale motor for the sedan. so by the end of the week all the cars will be driving again, except for trashwagon 5. considering that i can keep it in the building, i will hang onto it for a few reasons. one, its a trashwagon. 2 its a parts source for the iowa soobs. 3, i can use it a s a test bed for the standalone SPFI, i can put in a motor with the motor mounts and pitch bar only, and therefore i can take advantage of that to use a radiator and battery to get it running for use in another project.

anything from the xt will swap pver. you can change the loyale to 4wd by swapping the tranny, driveshaft, and rear suspension assembly. its a lot of work, but its all straight forward and bolt-on. the turbo motor will physically fit in the loyale, but you will have to wire up the turbo's ecu. you can use the existing fuel lines/system, and out the turbo fuel pump in the loyale if its the pushbutton 4wd you will have to swap all the vacuum actuators to the loyale you may have to make a mount for the carrier bearing of the driveshaft, since 2wd models wont have them(at least the 88 sedan didnt, i dont know about loyale) to sum it up what i am saying is you have all the parts you need between both cars, its just a matter of how deep into a project you want to be.

either the glass itself will swap, or the whole unit as an assembly will swap also. there are shims that adjust how the window fits in its seal. the only case of a leeky 'roof is when it wouldnt close all the way. but that is why there are shims

yes, you are right on. sometimes its best to start over than figure it out from where its at. what i would do if i was you is pull the disty, and go thru the timing belt alignment procedure. if yo havent put all the plastic on(i myself would chuck it all) you may want to just re-install the belts starting over. but do all the procedure, then drop the disty here is this for reference http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

an automatic for a brat will be rare, i think only 83-84 models had them? any older wagon has an identical platform with the brat. you can turn a brat into an automatic, but if the boy is gonna learn to drive, might as well get him on the stick shift. i got 3 soobs laying around, all with gas in them, all 5spds. but i have a suspended license, and all my drivers cant drive stick, and continue to burn all kinds of gas in their taurus. wouldnt it be easier if more people could drive a manual? my 2 cents stick around this board long enough and someone in your area should meet your needs.

dont line the disty with the cam at 12:00. this is what you do: after the whole timing belt procedure bring the driver cam to 12:00 THEN rotate the crank to bring 0deg BTDC to view. NOW drop in the dist... now to more answer your question, the PASSENGER SIDE cam will be pointing at the rib above SUBARU on the cam cover when the disty is at 0deg tdc, #1 cyl

there is a guy by the neame RGUYVER who had put spfi on an ea81 hatch and a TURBO! as far as your list goes, dont forget the coil bracket and the ignitor. in my opinion, you should just find the whole ea82 spfi motor as one piece, as an ea82 will fit with no mods. i have "mocked up" spfi to ea81, and this is what i encountered. 1 the disty is going to fight with the thermostat housing for space. i took the ea81 dist mounting tab and flipped it over. i installed the spfi dist(with ea81 gear) backwards. the wires will bve 180 off with the cap, but true with the rotor. the egr valve is going to be in the way of the engine bellhousing, i had to remove it and make a block off. i have a project in mind for an spfi 84 sedan, but i am using the whole ea82 motor for 3 reasons 1. proper compression 2. no modifications to any of the components 3.i can replace components with unmodified parts if yo uinsist on the ea81 motor, and you dont mind gettin in deep with it, get some hatch 1600 pistons from a leter ea71, and that will bring your compression to 9:1 like it should be. spfi is a DOG on a carb block, at least mine was with the 3spd AT.

i always re-use the stock pins as long as they came out easily and didnt booger up. actually, some of the more difficult pins i have removed were NOT o.e. subaru pins

it will also rattle "like a diesel" because its too hot! if its making that noise pull over and let it cool. may i siggest replacing the HG for safe measure. pull the motor out if you want to fix it. not that hard to do if you can use a wrench.

its not all in one place, but the search will bring several posts explaining in detail. you should find all you need. "a write-up would be nice" someone could lay out the whole procedure in this post alone. pretty much between both cars you have all you need. however you take one apart is how you will put the other together.

i had to take the ea82's pitch bar mount and put it on the ea81 block. all the major mounting holes for the bracketry will match either way

a carbureted ea82 will fit the same. use all the ancillaries from the ea82. i had an ea81 motor in an ea82 car, with ea82 water pump and ac/alt. so i would assume all the ea81 stuff will fit the ea82 motor the same. remove the distributor to drop the motor in to clear the master cyl, them put it back in