MilesFox

any ea81 radiators will work. a lot of the ea81 rad's that i have seen are 2 core, as a lot of the cars has no manual fan. i have seen an ea82 radiator in a brat, but it has an ea 82 motor as well. the trashwagon has an ea82 motor in an 83 body, but it uses the ea81 radiator

deebo on the motor!

what i hear is trogdor is bringing the red wagon for josh, and the t-case will ride with it..

unbolt the bellhounsing. take off the starter and pitch bar. remover the rubber cooling lines from the tranny end. disconnect the speedo cable and electricals. unboly the torque converter bolts, four each 12mm thru the timing window. you can take off the pitch bar mount to use a socket, or just use a box end. i use a prybar top separate the torque converter from the flex plate, so that it stays with the tranny and prevents a mess. get under the car. dranin the ATF. remove the y pipe for access. unbolt the shifter nut from the shifter itself. leave it connected to the tranny end unbolt the tranny crossmember bolts. lower the tranny down with a jack. if you jack up the SIDE of the car iy will give you more room to work.

they can go all the way down to the valve guides if they like to, no big deal. the heads on the RX were like this, and we ported them and have over 10,000 miles on it since the port. you can take a punch and kind of smoosh the crack and close it up a little.

so who all is coming? so far i have 86subaru tomrhere alleyboy trogdor 88xt6joe Tim Hansen snotrocket make a list of all the parts you may bring.

1. loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the plenum. simple pop ut up and towards the front of the car. thereis a hose from the aav valve that goes to the bottom of the plenum, you can simple leave it connected and let the plenum hang out the way. the hose may be brittle and crack, if so, then replace it with 1/2 inch hose. 2. the oil supple comes off the back of the head, around the turbo flange mount, and to the top of the turbo. you can remove it from the turbo itself if u like, i would only remove the line from the HEAD if the motor was OUT. dont lose the copper crush washers. its recommended tou replace the crus washers, but i have re-used them without a problem. i have heard of people drilling holes in pennies to use on brake line applications. 3.the oil RETURN is the fat rubber hose that goes to the back of the head with the tension clamps. replace it with 5/8 silicone hose. 4. my last 83 turbo was both oil and water cooled. the water line comes from what would be the drain plug on the head of a N/A. it comes up from the passenger side head, along the bottom of the valve cover, and up tpward the turbo. it turns into a rubber hose that meets the bottom of the turbo. the return line is the one that runs under the intake plenum. replace those with 1/2 inch hose. since the bottom hose curves around 90 deg, have an extra 2 inches or so of replacement hose(non molded) to allow enough room to bend without kinking. what they said. TOGLE SWITCH!

1. loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the plenum. simple pop ut up and towards the front of the car. thereis a hose from the aav valve that goes to the bottom of the plenum, you can simple leave it connected and let the plenum hang out the way. the hose may be brittle and crack, if so, then replace it with 1/2 inch hose. 2. the oil supple comes off the back of the head, around the turbo flange mount, and to the top of the turbo. you can remove it from the turbo itself if u like, i would only remove the line from the HEAD if the motor was OUT. dont lose the copper crush washers. its recommended tou replace the crus washers, but i have re-used them without a problem. i have heard of people drilling holes in pennies to use on brake line applications. 3.the oil RETURN is the fat rubber hose that goes to the back of the head with the tension clamps. replace it with 5/8 silicone hose. 4. my last 83 turbo was both oil and water cooled. the water line comes from what would be the drain plug on the head of a N/A. it comes up from the passenger side head, along the bottom of the valve cover, and up tpward the turbo. it turns into a rubber hose that meets the bottom of the turbo. the return line is the one that runs under the intake plenum. replace those with 1/2 inch hose. since the bottom hose curves around 90 deg, have an extra 2 inches or so of replacement hose(non molded) to allow enough room to bend without kinking. what they said. TOGLE SWITCH!

tomrhere has an ea82 radiator in his brat, but it has an ea82 motor as well. one way to tell from single row and dual row is to look at the top of the radiator, the single row has an indentation on the front and center, while the dual is straight across. if there is ever a fitment issue with the radiator, the cores themselves are swappable between the bottom and top rail. we had a rad. for the rx and we had to swap the bottom for the rubber mounts and the top for the bolt alignment. the bolts that hold it together have captive nuts molded in the plastic, the plastic around it may break. if so gently pick away the plastic till you can get a wrench on the nut, or wedge it still with a flat screwdriver to turn them free.

spraypaint will look good if you know how to use it. let off the nezzle between passes. you paint will only look as good as the primer coat.. might i suggest dollar can clear coat. stay away from walmart brand as it will fade and oxidize within months. krylon all the way!

there is a skinny hose that comes off the passenger strut tower that goes to the manifold. this controls all the heater and cruise functions. if all your heat comes out of the dash vent only. look for that first. it plugs into a reducer from a fatter hose off the motor. it leads to a canister on the passenger side firewall, and tsmall rubber lineds to plastic ones into the body. check all that too. the problem is most likely NOT the control unit on the instrument cluster this is a fairly common problem in the sense that the hose gets knocked loose or forgot to be re-connected when servicing the car, and its easy to overlook.

someone would give you those parts before you have to go spend all that. try posting WTB in the marketplace forum.

what did i miss? i cant keep up these days.

if you go to napa get the VALVE COVER SET for 85-94. thay are listed as valve cover, although its a rocker cover. beware of the 85-89 listings, as these are ea71 and ea81. the ea82 valve cover set will include the rubber grommets also.get a tube of non aerobic silicone (permatex ultra grey) to seal the cam case to the head. dont forget about the o-rings.

the fact that you have 3 cars ranging from carb to turbo, and you have both turbo and non turbo trannies. you can pretty much do any combo. just swap the axles original to the turbo tranny if you use it. i suggest the non turbo tranny for off road.

i think the rear caliper idea would work if you made a custom bracket for the mount. if there was a way to mount legacy rear parts o the soob, the legacy has a system the same as the front, but the cables go back to the rear, and the way it connects to the lever itself. as far as fabbing goes, i think legacy calipers would be the best bet, with xt6 rotors.

put the round part of a ball peen hammer on the axle shaft dimple to finish driving it all the way thru. (after you remove the axle nut from the initial pounding.)

i like ti use a 10 0r 12mm wrench, thread a pp bolt thru the box end, and butt the other end against the engine stud. real simple, works for mounting it and torquing too.

stay off the dirt roads and you'll be ok.

spray paint wont peel off from the new-found go-fastness of a slap on wing and a fart pipe. chrome filters and a cherry bomb, but no wing. DAMMIT!

im not one to keep onto cars for long due to impoundments and such, but im not doing too bad myself with a PAIR of trashwagons

I AM MILES FOX! in case you didnt know that already. but i have been absent for a while. keep an eye out for a TRASHWAGON. welcome!if u didnt live all the way over there i would give you a hand. anyway you found the BEST place on the whole internet to bring your questions to

"YO! My SPRAY PAINT is faster than your DECAL" as some crapalier witha wing goes by a traswagon

jump start the car. pull the pos cable and see if it still runs. if it does, the alt is good and the bettery is shot. if it dies, the alt is bad and the battery is shot because of it. i would get the battery first

piss on them cracks, dont worry aobut them. the RX had worse craxks, down to the valve guides, but that didnt stop me from PORTING them and putting over 10000 miles on them thus far. if they do scare you, and if you intend on having the heads looked at, i would suggest staking in the valve seats so they dont fall out. my opinion anyway........