MilesFox

i am kind of thinking that on the way back, since we will be stopping in minnesota and south dakota, that we may deviate the ame route back, but through iowa, illinois, depending on how we stretch our money, we have a full week and a weekend to do all this

any 85-94 will be best as far as being way into them, off road, or to mod with. being that they are the most common-for-cheap soobs, and pretty much any part of any model will interchange but an ea81 would be more like the trashwagon we will be getting, you will see a truly unique soob in the sheet-metal! personally i like the ea81 bodystyle better, but i like the ea82 motor and 5spd, so of course that is how i put my car together my current ride has all the features of an ea82, more modern, more options, but i am up a step with legacy suspension parts and legacy motor (if i get it together) you cant imagine doing the same types of stuff to some cavalier or taurus...

the local radio shack deals in cell phones, i wonder if they would have anything like that. if worst comes to worst, we can be creative wit the mic. somehing like a computer mic or a headphone ear piece, or even a mic salvaged from a tape recorder to be worn on a necklace? next weekend we will be getting the RX prepped for the run, we can add a 12 V power source, connected to the stereo's AMP wire(switched) since the speaker box will be absent. o that way you can set up in back, ride in back, or not have it interfere with the front console as a functional area in driving

oops, forgot to mention... but let it be known that ALL ea82 and EA81 REAR axles are 23 spline.

somewhere i had a pic, if i was at my own computer right now, i could find i.... speaking of cutting the airbox, i made a MAF adapter by cutting the part of the box where it mounted, found some old exhaust pipe, cut it don the side, and expanded it to the diameter of the filter. i welded this to the mount, and therefore had an adapter. i made a little tab to fit on the screw on the back of the turbo plenum its ugly, no entirely sealed(but duct tape will fix!) but now i have the system movked up and mounted, so i can go from there for improvements right now the filter has been apsent ince the turbo motor didnt last 100 miles, had a carb, but i will use it with teh ej22 i am now working on in the same car

some of the later HAYNES manuals will have the air strut diagrams, so far that i have seen but have not read them completely..

you may have accidentally pulled it away from the back of the instrument cluster. any moderate tug can do that, such as it happened once while servicing heater hoses

any 5spd tranny will do, as long as you have allt he right pieces that go with it. non turbo trannies will have a lower final gear (3.9), it will work good for off road or quick start type situations. the turbo gearing will give you better highway economy(3.7) make sure you would have the right gear rear diff for your transmission you will use. 5spd 4wds use a different driveshaft than the AT, but only the carrier bearing (front) half will be different

yeah 20 for later models

the lift prettymuch spaces the subframe from the body. the motor and axles will still be relative to eachother, but the whole assembly farther away from the body. the whole idea is to allow room for bigger tires, which there is where your actual ground clearance will come from some suspension tavel ideas have been pioneered, butthose ae the one-off fab jobs that come from creativity

air suspension can be wierd. we took the battery out to service the front of the motor, and we let it down off the jack, the car was way flatin front when we put the battery back in, the car was going up and down on the front driver side, it would go don when you hit the HIGHT button, but up when off. maybe it was in some sort of calibration mode? i lo0ked it up and it says ther is a height sensor inthe strut, and a valve, ...anyway it quit and is back to normal jim says they will load it down 200 pounds, they unload it and then it has the STINKBUG POSTURE. but it settles, probably when the key comes back on

when we did TROGDOR's auto to 5spd conversion, we used the center tool, but our efforts trying to install the motor moved the clutch disc, so i had to resort to the described procedure to get it to line up

DO NOT PULL THE MOTOR AND TRANS AS ONE UNIT. or you will find that you will be taking it out at a near 90 deg angle, afte you unbolt half the frame pull the motor out, that will access you clutch, and the time it takes to pull the motor will save you time trying to work on the heads with the motor in car with the motor out, you can set it in a 5 gal bucket for a stand, and do the heads and front end DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE CACKS BETWEEN THE VALVES. the cracks between the valves are normal, and expected. the cracks can go down to the VALVE GUIDES, dont worry. as long as the cracks are not splayed open. there is no water or oil passages in this area, only a valve seat may drop out if the cracks are WIDE OPEN heads generally are not warped, i have neverhad problems with warped heads, and have used some QUESTIONABLE heads with NO PROBLEM leave the tranny in the car if you do pull the trans, take the motor out first. the axle pins on the inner end are 3/16" inch dont use 1/4 inch or the punch will get STUCK

its normal for the oil pressure to be rally low below 2500 rpm. it should be around 35-45 at 2500 rpm is considered normal operating, nothing for alarm.. there is an o-ring between the head and the CAM TOWERS, on the mating surface. the cam covers that myoss feece speaks of can generically be referred to as a "valve cover" i have seen a valve cover so bad i thought it was a bad o ring under pressure. the cam/valve covers seal will get brittle, and crack, therefore leaking. i would bet the head gaskets are fine, but it wont hurt to re-do them anyway for safe measure. (i suggest pulling the motor, and doing both sides, complete gasket set if you decide to do so)

good luck finding an adapter to put a carb on the mpfi intake. your best bet is to just thrpw in a carb motor, witha carb, single port intake, as mpfi is dual ports. its only worth it if say you had trouble with mpfi to begin with unless you can be REALLY creative, and put some steep cams and some four-barrel..... here is an example of a modernesque, and shaker style hood scoop/filter for MPFI/turbo

cone filters thru the hood! nuff said...

keep the presure plate bolts loose enought that you can move the clutch disc by hand, but it will stay in position. then mate the motor, and with the starter out, you can tighten the PP bolts in equence after the motor is mated, and before you put on the starter

DEEBO ON A TRASHWAGON, there, i claimed it. if i go to jail, UNDEEBO WHEN I GET OUT. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/homepage/anecdotes/deebo.htm

jims car doesnt have the original hood, but anyway look there for ign timing if its original sorry about posting under the wrong name(logout next time!) i will investigate that myself, dam, where can i get an FSM?

do i smell a twin turbo? you da man, try it out, no one will ever know if its not attempted

the RX hits a "second power curve" at 5000 rpm, you can hear the turbo and all, chopped BOTTOM of the airbox. we just did jims. i makes a nice grown when you crack the throttle open AIR FILTER DEBATE: k&n claims their filter flows as well as paper filters, but the advantage is you can cleqn and re-use it so with the open box, if you are prone to clog the filter quickly, that is where a "permanent" filter will have an advantage(think, motorcycle, k&n started with moto's)

how are the throttle pos sensor, the MAF, and the ecu thermo sensor? the RX has a dead spot in the throttle, we swapped ina nother TPS and it ran way worse, so we put the old one back on. make sure all your components are in good working order. dont junk it right off, i wouldn tmind having a look at i t sometime. steve wants to plan an april meet, see you then!

i had a couch strapped down to my 84 wagon, and it limited its top speed to 55 mph on the highway

since you are doing all that cutting and welding, why not make a tap for a oil temp sensor, maybe a water temp sensor there if the oil dont get towards 250 deg. i know the cheaper wal mart temp gauges can get pegged permanently if you over cook it, like in a bad overheat. maybe a better gauge? (if the gauge dont work out, at leas there is a tap for an oil cooler? but its an idea worth considering anyway

run it to the ground. i bet it will go longer than what you expect it to. subaru durability test. since you would by now have in mind doing up another motor for it