MilesFox

The DL will not have a rear channel to the rear doors. I discovered this expecting a speaker plug in the door but it wasn't there (in the door). It may posssibly be ther ein the B pillar, but this depends on how many pins or wires there are on the stereo harness. I don't think the DL even has the power window and lock in the main harness, where a GL would even if it did not have that accessory. Even a legacy brighton with manual crank windows does not have power lock and window in its main harness. as you would wiring a stereo in a 4 speaker GL, The DL will still have a common ground speaker. You can simply connect the front channle fro the stereo and be done, or gang the lefts F adn R + and the rights F and R + together, connect them to the L and R on the car harness, and connect the L F and R _ together, same with the right, and connec them the left and right _ on the car.

I can get a rusty bolt out, but one that has already been beaten up or over torqued are the ones to snap off. Don't he-man on the torque, and you will be able to get it off next time. Use 6sided tools when available. I just replaced the ball joint in my forester (along with failed control arm due to RUST) to discover it had been previously serviced, evidenced by a long bolt with a nut on the other side, and part of the knuckle scarred from drilling out the old bolt. if the bolt breaks and must be drilled out, a through-bolt is just as good. The factory bolt threads into the knuckle. Drilling mey remove these threads. The shank of the bolt will retain the ball joint without torque as there is a groove on the ball joint socket end. It's not a lost battle if it breaks. as long as you have a good drill bit. Be prepared to remove the whole knuckle so that you can take it to a bench. For the same labor you can swap another knuckle, depending on cost. Good luck!

Just enough to hold it tight, but not enough to lift the wheel off the ground. This works in the opposite way that you can remove a tie rod by whacking the knuckle sharply with a hammer. Tension to fit it, shock to loosen it.

will be the same 95-98 for ej22 and ej25d legacy, iprezaa, forester, and most likely 90-94 legacy as well

On the new radio, connect the left front and left rear - wires together, same for the right, and match that to the common ground for left and right wire on the body harness according to the schematic. I have done modern radios in ea81 and ea82 this way for the fade and balance to work properly. In theory, the speakers can ground to the body as far as electricity goes, but the speakers in gfactory form ground to the radio with its common ground wires. Combining ground for front and rear on the stereo does not affect it as left and right are only 2 channels, and in therory, ground (earth) is ground no matter how you get there.

Place a jack under the tie rod to put some of the weight of the car on it to hold the stud still. Once the nut goes on enough, the stud will seat and the nut will torque.

The wiring runs along the passenger side door sill harness/ The gas tank sender to body harness plug is located in the passenger side cargo well in the rear quarter panel under a metal plate mounted by screws. Inspect for debris or corrosion. Good luck

Timing belt tensioner may be weak, causing it to backlash. you can change this part without upsetting the tiing belt if you clip the belt to the pulleys before taking it off. Do you know the service history of the timing belt?

I would suggest a bad engine temp sensor or bad front o2, or the combination of both

Generally, a new ball joint will supply a new pinch bolt

I always try to replace a stid if it comes out, using one with a 'torque prevailing nut' so that the stud can torque up. Otherwise, you can torque the nut up to the exhaust flange, but if the stud itself is not torqued to it's own bore, it will eventually loosen up from expansion and vibration. If a new stud is not avilable, i will torque the stud using the double nut method. I am not a fan of using bolts as they seem to not hold torque, don't bottom out or bottom out too soon, or rip out the threads when torquing. These methods i have resorted to after experiencing failures by other techniques, learning the hard way trial and error.

For a 96 legacy that drives, but need work, is worth about 600 bucks. That is what i gave for my car needing body work and a water pump (it was only viable for me since i had a donor car for parts. My opinion is the car is only worth repairing if there is no rust, and the price is right, and you have acess to donor parts and are handy with the labor yourself. Otherwise, the same car in operable condition, high miles, would be worth around the 1200-1800 bucks as the book value will cap off once a car is 15 years old regardless of condition or miles.

If it's making grinding or 'wump wump' noises, replace it as it can damage the hub if the bearing goes too far.

When i locked my forester (8, 240,000 mi) the passenger door lock somewhat shuddered as i locked it with the power lock. The temperature was single digits and snowy. a 95 legacy i parted out would rendomly rigger the door locks, but this car had collision damage in the b pillar. I have seen the locks wig out in a rapid motion while experienceing a discharged battery. With my experience with older and high mileage subarus, the passenger door lock cylinders are always sticky or non operational from lack of use by relying on the power lock. Conversely, a random key can open the driver door as the cylinder wears out as you always enter the car form the driver side lock.

If your 2.5 was already broken, then yeah, i would say go for a 2.2, but if you want one that bad, you can get a whole donor car for that price. So is this 'rebuilt engine seals and head gaskets, or has the case been split with new internals. I would trust a 150,000 mi used motor before i would trust a randomly 'rebuilt' engine, as the bottom end on a 2.2 just somply does not wear out. I would do the timing belt on the 2.5, and then consider a 2.2 if the HG lets go on the 2.5

1. if you have the capacity, and 2. If you want to do all the seals and the baffle plate. Not saying it is required, but suggesting so if your capacity lends to it.

I make a habit of putting the window down if i get out of a car with the keys in it, running or not, such as working on the car or getting out while it is running. While jump starting a forester, the guy i was helping locked himself out after attempting to start it. As he went to go fetch a spare key, i almost locked myself out, as wearing a bulky glove going for the inside door handle, my gloved knuckle was bukly enough to almost flip the lock lever. I'm sure this is how the other guy locked himself out. I never trust new cars with automatic locking doors. I discovered this morning that my 96 legacy key will unlock my 98 forester, which my former 95 legacy key unlocks the 96.

If it fails it will only leave you without AC. IF it fails enough though, the belt will cut into the timing belt cover. This part is the same on many years and engines. I believe the one on even a 05 turbo legacy is the same. Easy score at the junkyard.

the 'chugging' sound is probably a bad exhaust header gasket

A dual range trans will have the dual range lever out the back of it with the shifter if they took the trans out in one piece. Otherwise, the center console is a clue withthe d/r lever. If you are looking at a pic of the trans itself, a single range will have a diaphragm cable on the side for the 4wd. a full time with diff lock will have this same mechanism a dual range will have a ganged rod along the top of the trans with a pivot point near the front diff, ganged up with a pivot point on the rear half of the trans. the differential should have a metallic sticker with the gear ratio printed on the rear cover

the dual range should be offered in 85-88 years. The dual range will have a 23 spline axle and a 3.9 final gear. Not all turbo 5mt's are full time, especially if it is a pushbutton. But, all turbo 5mt is 25 splines and a 3.7 final gear. A dual range will bolt into a turbo car withthe same driveshaft, clutch and mounts. But, you will have to swap in 23 spline axles (any non turbo, or turbo with 3at). You will have to swap over a 3.9 rear differential which is a direct bolt in. See if you an get the rear diff with the trans, but if not, i can send you a 3.9 rear diff in the mail if you cannot locate one.

people are finding these cracks when they pull the heads from bad head gaskets. It's easy to blame the crack for a HG failure. But bet your pennies, go pull off the heads from a known good running ea82 and 99% of the time there will be the same crack in perfectly working heads.

Doing the brekaer bar method is fine and no cause for damage or screw-up as long as you keep the direction of rotation in mind. Another way to do this is put the car in gear and stand on the brake as mentioned above. Mind you, that the tool will probably turn 1/4 turn just to talke all the slack from the engine and driveline before it starts torquing the bolt. So put on the tool to allow for a 180 degree turn of the breaker bar to accomplish this. Same or tightening, make sure to turn all the slack out of the driveline so the bolt can torqe up before you run out of travel for the tool (180 deg turn) The volt vs the pulley should torque up a good 1/4 turn after it is snug. Torque value should be on the order of about 135-145 lb ft of torque. 1995 is a great model, since it has the same obd2 ecu as models thru 1998, but in most states, is not subject to emissions laws (for 1996 and later), and the engine has a non interference timing belt (no damage if it breaks) and the heads (composite gasket) are not prone to gasket failures like the later engines with MLS gaskets Depending on your capacity, it's not a terrible idea to pull the engine out so you have better access to the front if you want to go ahead and remove the cam sprockets and servince the seals. This way you can use your tools straight on the engine for proper torquing, and this allows easier access tot he valve cover s and oil pan, and the chance to replace the baffle plate seal behind the engine block. Replace the water pump and the idler pulleys along with the timing belts as the belts fail more often from bad bearing or seizure more often than the belt itself giving up. Doing all that work at once will essentially guarantee you 100,000 miles before you need to look at anything major

The carb manifild will bolt right onto an spfi block. You will have to ditch the AAV ststem on the back of the heads (tape quarters over the ports) and you will have to swap the egr pipe on the driver side head to match the carb intake. You will gain a compression increase, you can turn the timing up to 10 deg for a little more pep. the carb intake will not work on an mpfi head as the prts are different. However, any heads will bolt onto any blocks. Avoid turbo blocks since they are lower compression.

Trim level. No tach, Mechanically the same as hatch and brat thru 87 and 89. The wagon was thru 84, so any 85 listings may be ea82' when in doubt, order for a brat, or for a 1984 model. Appropriate listings for your car will have '80-84' for wagon,'80-89' for hatch, '81-87' for brat. '1.8 or 1800cc OHV' is ea81 engine listing. Any listings for 85-89, 90-94 LOYALE, '1.8 or 1800cc OHC' is an ea82 listing. The listings can be confused from 85-87 or 85-89 since ea81 and ea82 models were manufactued at the same timem for these years. Pay attention to this especially for brakes and axles listings.