MilesFox

double check the timing belts for your DISTY timing. make sure you line 0deg btdc after you bring the drivers side cam back to 1200, after finishing the passenger belt install http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm on the fuel rails, the line that goes to the injector rail, you will see it go to the injectors on the driver side, that is the PRESSURE LINE from the filter the line off the FPR, it goes straight out, that is the return line the 3rd line comes up fro the framerail by the hill holder, it has a fat foam casing, that is the tank vent line, it goes to the purge control

does a hill holder hold when the car is stopped on a DOWNHILL? if not, how can it tell if the car is facing up or down a hill?

did you do the belts or have the dist out? when we did alleyboys motor, it almost fired but didnt light up. it all came down to unplugging the mpfi harness connectors and re-plugging them in, and it fired up nicely what about the ground wire off the water pipe? did you connect the fuel lines properly? the line off the filter goes to the INJECTOR side of the fuel rail, and the return line is AFTER the regulator

and johnny depp would be perfect to play as Miles Fox!

there is an o-ring in the head gasket for the oil passage. also, there is an o-ring on the cam box-to head mating surface, on the bottom corner if you are lucky, maybe its the o-ring in the CAM BOX, and not the head hasket. try to see which seem the oil is coming from

i would presume its not in the gas tank? any one know? maybe i should get more under the car. is it behind the gas tank? sorry if i seem stupid to legacys, as i know mostly ea82

you can jack the motor up enough with the exhaust still connected to do each motor mount one at a time, jack up one side of the motor (on the pipe if you like), but unbolt it from the frame first. you may be able to do both this way

20 deg for spfi, 25 for turbo, 8 for carb

if you do the clutch with the motor in the car, pull the radiator, and the heater hoses, thats all. if you have a crane, you can pull the motor towards the front away from the trans, just enough to remove the clutch disc, a little more to remove the pp also. if you dont use a clutch alignment tool, you can finger tighten the pp bolts, enough to hold the disc still, but still move it around by hand. then tighten the bolts in sequence through the starter hole for a turbo, and all its complicity, i would say its not hard to pull the trans, if you get the car off the ground enough. i like to jack the car up sideways to drag the tranny out once its removed. if you would like to pull the tranny, i always drain the diff oil, makes less mess, you are changing it. the turbo downpipe fits on the side and back of the tranny. i would disconnect the flange for the mod pipe, and unbilt the top flange from the turbo, and leave the downpipe on the tranny. because when you line up the bottom studs, naturally, the turbo will line too. if yer pulling the motor out, the ps lines can be disconnected at the pump. the motor comes out with everything on it, turbo and all, belts. the ac/alt bracket can be swung out the way, with alt, ac, and its wiring still connected. if the ac is bad and you disconnect the ac lines, you can leave all that on the motor as you pull it

yes it will fit the same. i tell you that because i swapped one in when i converted my car from crank to power windows

its possible you may have aslight vacuum leak, henge the popping and burbling of the exhaust upon deceleration. hitachis will wear at the throttle shaft go with the weber before you blame the exhaust, my 2 cents

check to see if your fuel pump is coming on. you should hear it for a second once you turn the key on. you can also connect the green test clips, and the pump will cycle on an off, if the key is in the run position. the green clips will be under the hood for spfi, but if yours is mpfi? look under the steering culumn, behind the dash panel(like a turbo's) not to wuestion your intelligence, but is there an injector near each plug? MPFI? or does ithave a throttle bodt injector SPFI? anyway, start with fuel, or just pull the hose off the filter, and see if gas comes out when you turn the key on are you getting spark? check out the ign amplifier, the little round thing on the coil bracket check to see if the rotor turns when you crank it, but i doubt a timing belt would have broken from sitting maybe the water temperature sensor? but generally the car will start, but be hard to start when warm my buddy has an spfi sedan, it wouldnt start, spark or nothing in 20 deg weather, butr we came back the next day and she fired right up

sounds good! just like my setup on the ol trashwagon 5, but i used a 2 inch 'pack, and 3 inch pipe after rev the piss out of it, nice snappiness i bet. good torque and hp. watch your hiway performance improve, and beter mileage too

i know that cis subaru used his stock pump(spfi) to feed the underhood bosch pump, 80 psi i myself plan to use the carb pump in my wagon to feed the legacy pump under the hood for the ej22 dont know for sure how i will work out, but its nothing to stop me from trying it out. besides, trying things out is how we as a message board knows things when it comes to new ideas

does the tank have a drain plug? my 83 and 84 wagons had them, but maybe they didnt have them pre 83.

being used to ea series, i looked under the wheel for the fuel pump on the legacy. so where's it at, i need it for my ej22 trashwagon, under the hood

i noticed that speed in 3rd gear is the same as rpm, 30 mph=3000 rpm in 3rd 3000 rpm in 4th is about 50, 3500 rpm in 5th is around 65-70 mph you will generally have an idea of how fast youre going if you have been driving enough. if in doubt, keep pace with traffic hey, i found a speedo cable that looks to be ea82 5spd, let me know if you will need it

you can lift a 3-door or a sedan with the same lift. auto 2wd's too. sure it will fit, no matter what the year or how it came

kentucky is south, we will be heading west toward chicago. but kentucky is close enough we can come down for a weekend, work on your soobs!

we still have an easterly trip to plan sometime.....

well since you built your car how you want it, and if that bumper is for running over trashcans, i would say its trashwagon material

sorry we wont be going that particular way, but i appreciate the offer, so i may take you up on any parts as i plan to come to Midwest II

ok, lets see the word TRASHWAGON in your signatures!

80-84 are ea81 listings 85-94 are ea82/loyale listings 85-89 are hatchback and brat(-87) listings, after they quit making wagons and coupes after 80-84

as far as projects in progress, lets see the most completed examples for number designations but for trashwagon exclusivity, as to not run my next'wagon as #23, lets make the next designation from a new project, with the trashwagon theme in mind so with the "projects in progress" that would qualify for trashwagon status, lets let you be creative with the trashwagon name itself, rather than a number (for existing projects) such as "Battle TrashWagon" or "TrashWagon XT" or "TrashWagon Off Road" you get the idea, as long as trashwagon is in the title trashwagons 7 and 8 will have to be reserved for trogdor and alleyboy, if they chose a number designation, at this point.