MilesFox

...and i am a raccoon

sawp in ea82 suspension, then to xt6 5 lugs, slight fabbing, but easy to do if you can run a cutting wheel/angle grinder and a welder

some soobs came with a factory hitch. hit the junkyards!

i agree

as far as turbos, it would be better and more economical to swap in an entire turbo motor. the motor swap its self will be all bolt-in, but you will have to get heavy-duty into the electrical, to wire in the ecu and harness that came from the car the turbo motor came form you would have to swap the whole motor, because the turbo intake is dual ports, and will not bolt up to the carb motor. get the accel super stock coil, about 30 bucks. you can gap the plugs to .045-.050, and run one of theose "custom fit" cut to length make your own accel 8mm wire sets, about the same price

you will have to take off the timing belt covers to remove the water pump, so you may want to consider at least changing the belts, if not going as far as oil pump seal and crank/cam seals there are a 110mm and 105mm water pumps. the longer one has the pulley slip onto the studs, whereas the shorter one has the pulley BOLT ONTO the water pump. you will be able to tell which one you have as soon as you remove the clutch fan here are some technical how-tos with pics http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm

why not use the later "fat case" ea71 heads(like in 85+hatches) and have them machined out to fit the turbo fittings and the injector bosses from my comparisons, ea71 heads will line up at the combustion chambers, but the boly holes are closer. it almost looks you can slot the holes, if it wnt hurt the integrity of the heads i also noticed that the ea71 heads have a smaller combustion chamber

all is coming together nicely. the trashwagon6 has the ej22 and 5 lugs installed, and the wiring harness is almost complete the rx has held up some 3000 miles already since the carb block swap. there is a rip in the front axle boot, and the rar boot is torn. we removed both rear axles and had made a trip to columbus, oh and back with the DIFF LOCK, some 420 miles round trip we plan to re-boot the front axles, and keep the rears uninstalled, but have them as spares. the trip to columbus proved thet we can average 200 miles in 3 hours, and half a tank. we're going to west virginia 400 miles this weekend, and ZANNY DOOK will get a crash course in hiway, stick shift, and interstate navigation so far i have 325 bucks in the bank, and a pending loan app for 500 bucks. working for jim and alleyboy helps a lot with the funding the used car dealer in edon ohio called on me to service a customers car. i am working at my rate of 20 bucks an hour, times book hour rate. an axle book rates for a couple hours, i can do one in 30 minutes! things are looking good, and i have money flowing into my anus for someone who is parpetually broke! most likely we will take the RX, its proven reliable, it has new ball jojts, soon to get new axle boots. but i still would like to get trashwagon 6 running by then

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/swapmeet.htm Here is the Subaru Alliance Swap Meet '04 front page. there is a upper midwest general map, a local map of the meet and surrounding town, and a layout of the building and premises, and whats there read and you will find the address, phone number, and email contacts still plenty of time to plan for the meet. and anyone who has to drive a considerable distance is encouraged to stay the night, we will set up camping at the meet

tom, my legacy harness lso has the diode, on the schematics it says"diode (mpfi) i think one from a turbo harness should work, might want to study up on the diodes electrical properties to make the comparison. it only connects to one wire off the ecu, then to the alt circuit fuse or relay somewhere, its a yellow wire from the alt circuit, and a green wire from the ecu

after reading your other post first, then reading this, maybe the cam had the valve open when it sat, and stayed open as far as an "in the car fix" tou may go as far as pulling the cam cover, or even the cam tower and cam, and try smacking the valve spring with a hammer to loosen it. and if that doesnt work, at least you are torn down enough to pull the head

find an ecu pinout chart and schematics for both the ea82 and the brat weed out what you dont need from the ea82 harness, cut off the wores and re-wire them if you have to, to shorten them a lot of the same color wires will eventually junction to one wire and a lot of the same colored wires betewwn the brat an ea82 will go to the same things, like the ignition circuit, battery power, and ground i am doing an ej22 swap, and i just cut off all the ends i needed, then soldered them to the ecu after i cut it out. i left about 6 inches of wire off the ecu clips study the pinouts and the schematics to get an idea, compare similarities before you cut any wires

the RX rolled a lot easier, felt lighter too. we would run out west like this, and bring the rear axles in case a front axle went out (if we dont fix the boot by then). and i am super confident it would hold up all the way

you can try that too jim, if you have to drive everyday, since the weather is warmer, its bearable JUST DONT PULL THE SPEEDO CABLE WITH IT!!! (code 33)

i used the ea81 fltwheel bolts with the ea82 flywheel, since the flywheel centers on the crank snout anyway

suppose its the SPRINGFIELD where the Simpsons are from, since they never disclosed the state

i think the head may have dropped a valve seat, as i ahve seen a few examples suppose if you pulled the head, you could have it staked back in? i have read in auto books about staking valve seats so it may be worth it to ask about that to your local machine shops, get their opinions...

jim, you could try some bar's leak (the aluminum powder kind) maybe 2 of them. should that work it will get you by till we can come and fix it. it will at least keep you from "standing in hot water" and since its your other legal car, in case you need to drive it Jim asked me if the heater core from an XT would fit. i think it would. any one else have an idea?

well, since your cable is broken, it wouldt hurt to try and take it out. by doing that, you will know what to do and what tools you will need to go to the junkyard. if you need help along the way, just ask the board

cherry bombs are good, cheap, and i swear by them you could tackle swapping the carb yourself, and have the pro just tune it in, save on labor costs. just remember, anything hands on you do with your car, just ask about it here, you will be sure to get some excellent expertise!

clean "carburator" and "independant" suspension. suppose if he could spell? at least he thinks its a justy rather than a 2-door wagon(cpoyright infringement:D )

i'm going to WV next weekend to do trogdor's ride, 400 miles, 6 hrs, one full tank of gas, on e way. it will cost about 50 bucks in gas. i dont think you will be any farther than that if you come, i invite you to stay over thru sunday, who wants to come all that way to turn around and leave? see if you can pull your local crowd, or arrange a carpool or caravan with the southern states

i myself would charge 100 bucks, and do the axle at the same time! anyway, that is what im charging the local service garage to commission me to service his customers soob, 5 hrs, 20 bucks/hr

i bet the belts we put on alleyboys turbo will last 100,00 miles, since he drives 30 or more miles daily, i would say sitting and dryrotting is the belt's enemy

i lifted 3 inches, and 6 inches in both 83 wagons. in boh my throttle cables worked, and i was able to orient and trim the right combination of stock hoses to work with the radiator. the latter lift had an ea82, which i had to take off the timing belt covers and cut the framerails to fit(lift only) i extended the brake lines by cutting off the end of the steel portion, and adding extensions with compression fittings for the steering linkage, the ea82 will fit, and it has a double u joint, that will make your extension easier. what i did was took off the rack side shaft and cut and lengthened it, and used an ea82 double u joint the pitch stopper is the bar above the engine that connects to the firewall the shifter you can mount higher with its pivot at the mounting bushing, but you will want to cut the hole out a little to fit 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. but on min e both i use 5spd dual ranges, the first one converted from 4wd auto, the second one converted from 2wd 5spd