MilesFox

you can try that too jim, if you have to drive everyday, since the weather is warmer, its bearable JUST DONT PULL THE SPEEDO CABLE WITH IT!!! (code 33)

i used the ea81 fltwheel bolts with the ea82 flywheel, since the flywheel centers on the crank snout anyway

suppose its the SPRINGFIELD where the Simpsons are from, since they never disclosed the state

i think the head may have dropped a valve seat, as i ahve seen a few examples suppose if you pulled the head, you could have it staked back in? i have read in auto books about staking valve seats so it may be worth it to ask about that to your local machine shops, get their opinions...

jim, you could try some bar's leak (the aluminum powder kind) maybe 2 of them. should that work it will get you by till we can come and fix it. it will at least keep you from "standing in hot water" and since its your other legal car, in case you need to drive it Jim asked me if the heater core from an XT would fit. i think it would. any one else have an idea?

well, since your cable is broken, it wouldt hurt to try and take it out. by doing that, you will know what to do and what tools you will need to go to the junkyard. if you need help along the way, just ask the board

cherry bombs are good, cheap, and i swear by them you could tackle swapping the carb yourself, and have the pro just tune it in, save on labor costs. just remember, anything hands on you do with your car, just ask about it here, you will be sure to get some excellent expertise!

clean "carburator" and "independant" suspension. suppose if he could spell? at least he thinks its a justy rather than a 2-door wagon(cpoyright infringement:D )

i'm going to WV next weekend to do trogdor's ride, 400 miles, 6 hrs, one full tank of gas, on e way. it will cost about 50 bucks in gas. i dont think you will be any farther than that if you come, i invite you to stay over thru sunday, who wants to come all that way to turn around and leave? see if you can pull your local crowd, or arrange a carpool or caravan with the southern states

i myself would charge 100 bucks, and do the axle at the same time! anyway, that is what im charging the local service garage to commission me to service his customers soob, 5 hrs, 20 bucks/hr

i bet the belts we put on alleyboys turbo will last 100,00 miles, since he drives 30 or more miles daily, i would say sitting and dryrotting is the belt's enemy

i lifted 3 inches, and 6 inches in both 83 wagons. in boh my throttle cables worked, and i was able to orient and trim the right combination of stock hoses to work with the radiator. the latter lift had an ea82, which i had to take off the timing belt covers and cut the framerails to fit(lift only) i extended the brake lines by cutting off the end of the steel portion, and adding extensions with compression fittings for the steering linkage, the ea82 will fit, and it has a double u joint, that will make your extension easier. what i did was took off the rack side shaft and cut and lengthened it, and used an ea82 double u joint the pitch stopper is the bar above the engine that connects to the firewall the shifter you can mount higher with its pivot at the mounting bushing, but you will want to cut the hole out a little to fit 1st, 3rd, and 5th gears. but on min e both i use 5spd dual ranges, the first one converted from 4wd auto, the second one converted from 2wd 5spd

it actually wold be less wiring than earlier if you are swapping the harness and ecu. aside from that, its pretty much bolt on the same either motor. i would go with the 87 and up, more commonm, subaru worked more bugs out by then, a little more hp

if anything put a film of anti seize or bearing grease on the stubs to keep them from getting surface rust(for when you put axles back on)

if you took the time to tear out the suspensin, the mod will not be hard to do it would be most economical to find an ea82 donor car, for allits suspension parts if you take out both suspensions, and compare, you will see the mount i speak of, you can see where to cut, or just simply make your own the 5lugs have a bigger ball jointhole, but the 5lugs trailing arm is the same length, and will bolt in if you do the mod first the rear ea82s are bolt in, if you ream a hole and trim a bushing. but the brakes themselves for ea82s and 5lugs are direct bolt on this project would cost you little more than the what you paid for the parts themselves, you can do most of the work yourself as far as putting it together. suppose i can stop by and lend a hand, i will be MUCH cheaper than any mechanic( like almost free) . like i said, i will be rolling thru the missoula area in march, i would be glad to stop over and show you a WORKING EXAMPLE, something i built for having no more into than what i paid for my $420.00 car. i would say start with the suspension mods, knock them out, because that will open the door to more options, to use better and later STOCK parts for the strut capsm ther eis a half-moon hole for the center of the cap, i just hollowed it out to fit the ea82 strut shaft, using the ea81 strut cap so it bolts into the strut tower. i used the ea82 springs with the ea81 cap. i want to 5 lug my setup, so i would do the same thing but ti a legacy/impreza/xt6 strut try to source yourself an ea82 car for parts, or at least an ENTIRE font suspension to start with. if you have the capacity to to take the suspension apart, you rfabrivator has little work to do, if you must pay someone to do the heavy work creativity and resourcefulness will carry you a lot farther than having money or spanking new parts................................. i am just telling you from my experience, something i have done for being perpetually broke, with my 20hr a week job you are welcome to ask any more about your setup, i will be glad to share all the little details from my conversions

the 85-86 have the mechanical disty and external knock control unit. the 87+ have the optical disty, and the knock control is in the ecu the 87+ would probably be simpler when it comes to wiring up a harness and ecu

there are some 720 deg crank rotation for the procedure line up the first cam, rotate 360 deg, line up the other cam, rotate 360. then rotate again to bring the first cam back to the peginning step, them rotate till you get 0degBTDC to do the distributor the belt alignment marks will line up when ALL the pistons are in the middle of their stroke, NOT the ignition timing its common for a mechanic to line up both belts up, to odeg tdc, when the cams should be pointing opposite, with the 3 marks in line

sounds to me that if the car runs bad AFTER BEL SERVICE, they were installed wrong you can check the belt timing by removing the outer belt covers, and the bellhousing window rubber plug read this if tou would like to check the belt timing yourself, or show this to your mechanic http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

caleb, you are "overinforming" this guy, tont get him jumbled. no, there are NO BODY OR FRAME MODS to fit an er27, at least none to fit an ea82, and the er27 is the same width. you mat have to be crative for the radiator, but i have not done the swap myself, but i have installed ea82's caleb, the xt5lug on an ea81 can be done fairly easy with LITTLE MODIFICATION. the rx trans will fit normally like the general 5-spd swap that so many have done. the ea82 suspension will allow you to use the xt6 axle, and the ONLY FABRICATION will be the OTHER SIDE OF THE LOWER CONTROL ARM MOUNT, you are basically cutting off the rear flange of the mount from an ea82, and welding it behind the mount on ea81, so the lower control arm mounts one width behind, cause the ea82's curve forward. once that is accomplished, the strut and axle will fit. on my setup, i used EA81 strut cap, and ea82 strut and springs. i had to modify the hole on the cap tp fit on the shaft of the strut, easy dremel work. of the ea81 is power steering, simply swap out inner and outer tierods with ea82's. mine was manual rack, so i had to cut and lengthen mine the dual range rx trans can be found in 85-89, with the full time units from 87-89. ask DR. RX for his expertise on rx models and what they had Tomrhere is goung to put the er27 and 5spd in his 82 brat, ask him for his expertise, as his brat already has an ea82 motor and ea82 radiator ea82 turbos ate 115 hp, spfi ea82 is 95 hp, and carbs are like 85-90 hp, stock and all if you do swap whatever engine, the y pipes or turbo downpipes will still meet the rest of the exhaust at the same location. dual exhaust is easy to make yourself on a subaru\ this is what i know, i have mixed a lot of parts, so feel free to ask me any time about how i fit them together. i will be rolling through missoula mid march when i go to get my car from idaho, so if you like i would stop by and show you my example, TRASHWAGON 5, the ea82 conversion wonder, you can see it first hand and its really didnt take much at all to convert it like so.

let me go to trogdors this weekend and swap his motor and do a auto to 5spd conversion this weekend, then im off to get my car back from idaho. then after the midwest meet, the east coast meet, and the SUBARU ALLIANCE meet, wcss6, i think we can plan for an ALASKA journey! as far as birth of trashwagons, i think it would be NEAT-O if someone bult the next TRASHWAGON 7

the ea81 2-door you mention is the HATCHBACK, not to be confused with the ea82 3-DOOR, the hatch came as gl and dl, they generelly had the ea71 1600 cc, but later 4wd's had ea81's from 85 up they were called the STD (standard) and the "hatchback" listings for 85-94 is actually the ea82 3-door, 3-door coupe. in canada they are called "chaser" if you check my site, there are parts references links on the top, it has scans from the subaru 85-94 parts guide, all models the "2-door" that i mention is a 83 ea81 turbo wagon with hatch doors and side skins, 5spd conversion and 3 in lift. its in my website too the front mod is easy if you can weld(i used a flux core 110 v welder) and cut off the ea82 mount in the right spot try searching yahoo or msn, RGUYVER has a msn group, he has a hatch withthe mod i speak of, it has ea81, with ea82 spfi and a turbo, nice mixup. he has a brat with 5lugs, but stick suspension and shortened axles. you should find a diagram of a strut adaptper fpr ea style struts to fit the xt6/legacy/impreza knuckle, with the 5 lug suspension setup there is also a diagram of the mount mod, but i cant find it. be thorough with your search and you should find the hatch, blue with yellow caution stripe. his mod used the ea81 strut.knuckle, drilled out fopr ball joints and tuerod, wheras i used the ea82's no reaming of the holes the er27 will bolt up to both ea81 and ea82 trannies, its just the right mix of flywheel and clutch parts, all stock bits. the rx full time is like the dual range, but taller reduction, it has 25 splinds(all are turbo) and the diff lock(for true 4wd)

i would say measure the specs, and if they check out, reassemble. as long as you didnt get coolant in the oil, and you didnt get so hot that the timing belts melted, you are good to go. have the heads inspected for cracks in the EXHAUST PORTS, the cracks between the valves are NORMAL, its common for them to go down to the valve guides. have the valve seats staked in if you recondition them if all the bolts came out without trouble, and didnt take any threads out with them, the block is still good i would say the motor is worth rebuilding if measured for spec correctly, and it checks out the most cost effective measure would be to swap in a known running motor

i believe the turnout will be better this year, having more exposure now

the SECOND ANNUAL subaru alliance meet is now scheduled for may 29-30 2004

memorial day it is, from fri nite thru sunday it will be at the carbola, anyone who wants to come early friday and stay over, help set up is welcome the meet itself will be saturday, and if anyone camps out, sunday may have some BAJA'n may 29-30 saturday being the emphasis. but 2 days for anyone who cant make it the first day