MilesFox

it has been done to a brat, and i know someone who is doing the swap into a brat. with the suspension mods i mentioned, you can go with the xt6 5 lug wheels on an ea81. search RGUYVER for another example of 5 lug wheels in a brat with rx full time tranny xt6 axles and turbo MT's and full time 4spd autos have 25 spline axle stubs, so you would have to go with ea82 suspension and turbo axles to use these trannies but yes, the er27 will fit, you will want the radiator to go with(its like an ea82's but bigger hoses, and ea82 will fit in an ea81, ask tomrhere's brat

you could save the mechanic work/price by keeping the existing tensioners, if the car runs right and doesnt have noises a subaru is a good car to learn how to work on cars, they are different than what most mechanics are used to, but thay are simple in their own design, a straight forward functional car. my first hands on job in auto class was a subaru alternator, a 3,door 5spd, maybe an RX. and back then i had no preoccupation with subaru, didnt know about them, funny how fate turns out!

we busted it out, routine practice, motor in a 5 gal bucket! the heads and everything ere mounted and the motor was ready to drop in. we put on new studs for the exhaust, and painted a few things. and we went OPEN BELT, new belts. the previous owner took things off out of order, was going to take the whole fuel rails and wires off the intak, but at least all the electrical and fuel rail was intact. it had the outboard hitachi ac, but that was removed from the bracket, so its just the alt. a dual pulley alt and another belt will work, or the ac can go back in. we had to use odd bolts and spacers on some of the intake, and the alt bracket, as those were missing from the car we had it all put together before we left sunday nite, but it would not start. we discovered it had no FUEL PUMP AFTER we tried to start it. so a quick to auto zone for the aftermarket pump and we tried again. we get spark and fuel, but the timing seems off, as the motor wants to catch the wrong direction. all of the timing is spit on. if we had more time or another day, we could have figured it out, or borrowed a few select parts from johns other cars. we have a new ecu ttemp sensor also John, try swapping the disty with the other one and see if that helps. since its together you can refer to the HAYNES book to see of you can get it going not bad for a car that was otherwise useless, having a dead motor with a broken rod and a blown head gasket, and missing parts. its like TRAHWAGON in a sense, taking an otherwise deadbeat car and making something special of it, a hands on heart and soul into it effort

all of the suspension and engine parts will change out with other models of the same styling there are ea81, and ea71 motors of the era, and a n older version of the ea71 in 80-82, the 80-82 had external voltage regulator and different coil, so try 83 and up for a good match of most parts

who is taking the head off/ you or the mechanic? if you have the head off yourself, you may want to invest in a valve spring tool, it will pay for itself if you do valve seals on your own work, the tool is cheaper than the mechanic but if you have the head off, the mechanic wouldnt cost as much, buit he will still charge you an hour at rate

the ea81 is from 80-84. the ea82 came out in 85, and the BRAT and STD hatch wer produced 85-89 when looking for parts, any listings for 80-84, and 85-89 dont confuse ea82's with 85-94. knowing this will generalize what pars will fit what, as far as getting the RIGHT part but some ea82 parts are swappable into ea81. some with mods some without. an ea82 motor fits nicely, with just the right combination of STOCK parts suspensiond can be swapped over, rear disc brakes(no mod) rear trailing arm (slight mod, simple) and front lower control arm, axle, and strut, bigger brakes(welding a bracket for STOCK ea82 parts) and with the right combinations of mods, you can have some of the most current subaru parts in the ea81 without EXTENSIVE modification i myself have an 83 wagon, it was ea81 2wd 5spd now it is ea82 motor, 5spd dual range trans, rear diff and trailing arms(no axle of driveshaft yet) the front has ea82 lower control, strut/brake/tie rod, from cutting the mount off the ea82 and welding it to the ea81 crossmember i had an ea81 and a 5spd dual range in an 86 ea82 that was automatic sedan 2wd auto to 4wd 5spd conversion "2-door wagon" search for "trashwagon" and check the links on my sig, for peeps on my setups depending on your automotive skills and knowledge, you can do just about any mix and match with a soob

the ej20 and ej22 have the same bellhousing, but has a different bellhousing than the xt turbo. so whichever motor is used, either one will require a different adaptor, or one that would acommodate both "Please excuse me for asking but Donald you say" this is what i mean. skip knows what i mean. read the other posts too, how many more parking spots in skip's backyard?

if you can find the turbo heat shield for the t-belt covers, that would work nicely for the bottom half, stock replacement for whatever reason

save the mechanic some work, pull the fan, if its not far to drive maybe take off the outer covers, and have him re quote you the cam covers you can fix yourself, you might as well start with that getting your hands dirty, and learning the SOOB. buy the belts, as shops tend to charge rate on parts, a 10 dollar part would cost 15 dollars i would say get all your seals separate, and offer 300 cash for the work, if you take it somewhare

are you talking about the xt 5spd full time? does it have a diff lock? the rx has the axles removed from the REAR, its running FWD, with the diff locked on its FT4WD 5spd dr. with the diff unlocked, it will not moved if you are talking about running off just the rear axles, you can engage 4wd n a pushbutton, wd hi/lo on the dr, or lock the diff on full time as far as reliability, i got 3000 miles of cross state driving and winter donuting on my 4wd wagon, front broken axle, and a rigged 25spline doj on 2wd axle. the rx went to columbus and back, 400 miles tound trip. and we are going to WV this weekend. if you run off the front or the rear only, the other stubs will rotate the same speed as the live axle. but if a wheel spins on the live axle, the stub will increase rpm in proportion to speed, to match the wheel spin we could roll around all day and up to Skip's driveway with either configuration

how far is indiana?

dam skip, you have no relent. obviously a typo, you seem to call these things out as if i didnt know better. my point is, if he designs his ride around the xt motro EA82, he will have to go with a different configuration to go with the ej motor, different bellhousing and ecu

take off the fan and radiator to pull the motor jack up the TRANNY so that the motor mount studs come out of their hole. do tha same for installation the ENTIRE FRONT CROSSMEMBER< MOTOR< TRANS< SUSPENSION, can be dropped as one unit. but you have to get the car up in the air to drag the whole thing out. same can be done to install, i installed my crossmember, lower control arms, 5spd trans and ej22 as a built unit into my 87 wagon i left the struts, axles, and brake lines hang on the car from the strut tower, just disconnected the tie rod and ball joints if you pull all that, disconnect the parking brake cables from the lever, and let them come out with the frame

i run without belt covers. i drove 2300 miles west with open covers and used belts. the RX has open belts. the motor we put together for alleyboy has open belts i have never had a problem wiht the belts jumping, or debris. i keep the plastic piece behind the idler pul;ley there, because that looks to be the only place anything can find its way in the belt(debris) the weather may shorten the life of the belt, for example, a new belt may go as long as 100,000 miles, but should go all of its recommended 60,000 miles at least. and with open belts, you can replace the belts in 20 minutes, all you have to do is take off the ps and alt belts. saves you from having to pull the crank pulley, the ac mounts, and the dipstick the oil pump is also easily serviced from under the car i swear by it

doing an ea81(xt turbo) will need an adapter plate. but if you do that, and go with an ej22 motor later, the ej22 has a different bellhousuing(you will need another adapter) and it will have another ecu. something to keep in mind, but nothing to stop you from doing it

i dont expect anyone to kiss my A. i post from EXPERIENCE, what has worked for me. let it be up to the one who asks to decide what to do with his car, i just give some options to consider. believe you me, i have done some "unconventional" practices to soobs, and thay are all good

m10 (10mm dia.) 1.25 thread pitch(metric)

skip, the haynes manual that every one hatges so much, has scheduled maintenance. anyone who can READ the haynes book rather than just look at pictures, they can understand how to fix a subaru if he wants to do his timing belts, he can READ this http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

the mounting is diferent between the doors? try rx sedan mirrors

the ignition amplifier module takes the signal from the ecu, and amps it enough to trigger the coil. that is the round nougat on the COIL BRACKET. you can get one at the junkyard for any fuel injected soob. the sensor in the distributor is the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR, and it is optical, with a disc and 360 noches.the ignitor is most likely, having gone bad 20 min after a new coil if for whatever reason the wires on the disty is bad, the wire itself will unplug and swap if it were determined the sensor in the disty was bad, it would be more economical to replacethe whole dist with a known working unit

a dude at work, an auto student, got me a full schemaic for the legacy, that will help me out with the extra and same colored wires. i have what i got figured out connected and soldered. all of the ngine sensors are wired to the ecu, but i need to hook up power and grounds, fuel pump relay, and a bunch of other maybe eliminate loose ends

john, good to go with theheads, as i have seen cracked ones in perfectly running cars. the staking of the valve seats will help the head last LONGER, even tough it will hold up anyway

5spd dual range will swap in the same, mount the same, existing driveshaft can be used. just make sure your rear diff is 3.9, if not, het the diff with trans. make sure trans has shifter your existing clutch and flywheel will work. all you need to swap out inside is the shifter cover plate so, you need only: trans, diff(if yours is a 3.7) and the shifter plate

maybe the ignitor dooked. mine dooked when i was swapping distributors, i had to replace it on my 87 turbo, fixed her right up

i submitted pics of trashwagon 3(79 pinto) to beaterz.com many moons ago, but it eppears thet the site has been idle for the last couple of years