MilesFox

come on skip, give the guy more credit for what you dont think he knows. im sure the guy can read if it DOES say ea82, and the guy isnt on mushrooms, then, it must be transplanted. the ea82 will fit rather easily, and anyone who can swap a motor could possibly inadvetently invent the upgrade without knowing about the mod to begin with, "just swapping in another subaru motor"

but when a diff is locked, it behaves like a part time unit. my point "This kind of speak is not appropriate for the USMB, except for moderators" knowing what the subaru tastes like will help please all your 5 senses

hub and axle. unless you swap to a 25 spline tranny, OR see if a 23 splined trubo ea82 doj will fit on a legacy axle?

i know that on an analog gauge, the part behind the prndl on autos and 4wd hi/lo on mys will swap out. so the light assembly itself must swap out? dont know for sure on the digi. the bulbs are kind of like christmas lightsm (the bulb part)

use a brass wheel for the drill chuck. the brass is almost softer than the aluminum, and it wont scratch, and it will buff the metal and make it have a "hardened waxed" look

i would say the man only questions it because he is not too experienced in the soobs, as if he doesnt see them very often but perfectly good heads have cracks in them, cracks are expected but if the guy knows what he is doing and trusts his own work, i say its a go what i would think you could have him do is stake the valve seats in, so they dont drop out not that they will all of a sudden, but i have seen heads let go of valve seats, if the cracks expand too large but if the crack is small enough you cant relly catch it on a fingernail, youre ok. as long as the crack doesnt splay open, and the cracks are flush, there is nothing to be too concerned about

look again

last year's attraction

get yourself a test light or a multimeter, to see if yo have power at the coil also, the haynes manual has very useful wiring schematics you can go from, for troubleshooting

does it have a diff lock? licking the center diff will make it behave like a part time unit in 4wd

the easiest way i have ever done is partially pulled the motor what i did was pull the radiator, removed the niuts from the motor mounts, and disconnected the heater hose. i used a crane to pick the motor up enough to slikd it forward in the car. i had a jack under the tranny so the motor would slide away without the motor mouhts catching. took me about 2 hours, taking my time

i would guess they are bulbs, the little 194 looking but smaller bulbs .i can tell you for sure they are bulbs in analog clusters. my car has a digi dash, but its a 5spd from my experience jumping the neutral safety, i hve found that the harness in the shifter itself lights the indicators, so lift up the console plate and do some troubleshooting there, too to remove the digital cluster, remove the screws on the bottom edge of the instrument bezel. pop out the OFF and DEF buttons on the heater control, remove the 2 screws remove more screws on the underside of the top, and all your switchg knobs. the area of the bezel arnd the ventsw snaps in hope this gives you an idea of what to get into

the 80-82 trannies have a lower first and secong gear. somewhere there is a chart floating around, try a search for gear ratio or transfer case

its good for SEARCH value

skip, i am talking about moving it around the driveway. i think its a fun and clever trick, i will be using the coil circuit on my TRASHWAGON to power the ej 22 ecu, and all that trash. i will be using the legacy's relays where necessary

i notice the victor series gaskets from napa use graphite faced intake gaskets and exhaust gaskets, and a metal egr gasket, wheras the felpro use paper faced gaskets and a paper egr gasket it looks that napa is the better quality, on the back each gasket is listed as "made in japan" and it wil have enought gaskets to do a whole head gasket job, including cam covers and grommets, and enough gaskets o rebuild an mpfi manifold. the napa set comes with enough gaskets for ANY ea82 pick up the oil pump seal, and turbo flange gaskets separately

yes, this is what i ended up doing. at first i tried to trace it all, but now i have sections, nthe pinout, and the ecu all trimmed up. i am going to tap power from the ign circuit from the wagon, from the + coil to kick it all on, isong legacy relays i will wire one fan to the existing electric fan, and the other to the legacy ecu the fuel pump will be mounted under-hood, and it will have go to the ecu and its original relay

now ihave the harness out, and all cut up. i thopught i was in over my head, until LEGACY777 from the new gen forum gave me some helpful links to the pinout charts and fsm scans tonite i will fix my 4th xt wheel, and take tha car down off the jack stands, and wheel it out in the warmer half of the bulding for some wirin' !

it is doable with the right combination of STOCK parts, and a little knowledge about the parts and the cars they came from

i believe the oil pan gaskets match the same between the 2, but the oil pickup is different. but who says you can trim the baffles to fit?

yes, they are, the intake, exhaust ports are the same, and it bolts onto the motor the same compression differences will be in the pistons, not the heads go with it

before you go, please read this: if you wanted so badly to turbo a NA ea81 block, find some ea81 turbo heads and an intake(but ultra-rare) newer mpfi can be adapted(very similar in design, but injectors are in the head(ea81) the ea82 turbo cross pipe and turbo will bolt on a more cost effective planis to go with an ea82 turbo motor, complete with wiring and ecu. it will bolt to the trans with no mod, and fits nicely between the framerail. the only clearance issue will be around the master cylinder, just simply remove the distributor when you install the motor, them put the dist in. but in ea81, you will have to trim away, or "scallop" the front crossmember, to clear the turbo crosspipe. that, or find yourself an ea81 turbo crossmember as far as trannies go, use the rear diff that goes to the tranny, non turbo 5spd, dual range has a 3.9 gear turbo full time, 5spds, and dual range has a 3.7 gear. lsd comes in 3.7 gears. the only exception is the xt6 which had them as an option(standard in 89) and legacy turbos but if you use a 3.9 trans, a 3.9 ring gear and pinion will swap into an lsd to convert it non turbo trannies have 23 splines(turbo 4wd autos too) but turbo 5spds and full time autos have 25 splines. all ea81 cars have 23 splines. but there is a way around that, you can use ea82 lower control arm, strut, knuckle, and its bigger brakes with minor fabrication. that will allow you to use turbo ea82 axles with turbo trannies, or even xt6 axles and 5lug hubs to read more on the suspension, search "rguyver" and trashwagon5" i myself have put an ea82 (carbbed), a 5spd dual range, and ea82 front suspension and rear trailing arms, disc brakes, in my 83 ea81 wagon. all the general mods here on the board, but all of them in the same vehicle pics of my setup http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/trashwagon5001.html

sell it to someone who sees tha car as a slolid ride, and wouldnt mind fixing it. i myself would buy a car in such shape, because i can fix it with little more than my own time invested. anyone proficient in subarus would probably consider a buy, if the price is good(solid body and clean interior). maybe the buyer would have another motor to just throw in, as was the case with my car, i bought it with the motor in the trunk!

thanx vety much! i thought i was over my head for a moment.

Does anyone have or can link me to a schematic for the ecu, or what color wire goes to what. i am swapping the 2.2 into an 87 wagon, and a pinout would help lots!