MilesFox

1st and reverse are gionna be your biggest clearance issues. dont be afraid to take out the jigsaw. much easier than cutting out and swapping the whole tunnel. just run thru the gears, and watch to see where the shifter hits, and trim away enbough to get it into gear, maybe take a few tries so you dont cut too much the first time

see if the PCV hoses themselves are clogged up, if so, replavce with 5/8 hose. as this happened to the sedan, it puked till we changed a hose, left the same pcv valve in

HOME MEADE I SAID!....dont let them tell you no different... unless you wnat to pay for something you could have done yourself for way cheaper...

run the coil straight off the battery (b+ to +coil) to get it running, if the coil doesn not get power. but i tell you to do this for the sake of moving the car if you have to, till you fix the real problem by connecting it this way, the whole car should power up ads if the key was in the run position, its possible to start the car from under the hood withthe doors locked and the key in the ign!!! dont let skip tell you your car will burn to the ground

tonight i messed around under the hood, since now ther is a motor there. o connected the clutch cable. the 4wd vac lines are connected, but the wiring has a different plug. i need to swap the wiring from the other trannyv yet, now that i see,. the tranny ground wire is connected i will need longer hose for the heater hose i will need a linger throttle cable, the hashed turbo cable is too short, i will try the legacy cable. if that dont work, than an spfi or carb cable will do i tried to mount the legacy radiator, but its too tall. but the xt6 radiator fits, once i change out the bottom rail for the alignment nipples. i started to pull the harness from the legacy. uinder the hood i have the headlight front harness pulled to the relay box. i also have the dashboard out, for easy access

i may consider narrowing the xt piece, or making my own, because i dont trust the way my existing mounts line up(i cant get ine bolt in, 3/8" adapter offset) but i can live with that till i get it running. but if i do that, it would be much stronger, and if i dio so, i will use also the regular mounts to drill thru the front xt crossmember i dont have a ptch bar with this setup, and the trans i have is missing one. Tom still has the mount, so i will use the xt dogbone on the trans for a pitch bar, when i can get the bracket from tom

corky, i tried to mount my 5spd crossmember from the xt6 into my wagon. the front half lined up, but the rear half was too wide. i would have liked to use this, if i could either narrow the rear half, adapt the stock piece, or make a custom piece. i noticed the tranny mounts themselves are farther back than normal, would those be in the same location as the ej tranny? but the holes were there for the ea82 normal mounts, it would have been cool to drill holes to mount them to the front half of the xt6 crossmember. but i ended up using the crossmember and mounts from my previous tranny anyway, enlighten us to how you mounted the ej trans in the ULTIMATE RX

the cracks between tha valves are normal, even if the extend down to the VALVE GUIDES an crack in the exhaust port is what to look out for, that would explain coolant in the exhaust, but no loss of compression, or coolant in the oil if you take the head off, look for signs of "steam claening" as that is whewre water could be getting into the cylinders(from the radiator pressure) the gasket should want to stick to either the head or the block if its good, but pull away from both if its bad (as you pull the head)

i got an ej22 in my 87 wagon. just got it in, not running yet you will either have to find or make a custom adapter plate to fit the ea82 tranny, since there are no aftermarkwet ones that i can think of if your car is turbo with a 5spd or full time auto 25 spline axles, then you can swap an ej series motor WITH TRANS, you may have to make a custom mount, but i THINK that xt6 mounts MAY fit an ej tranny to the ea body. look into that one

you can disconnect the tie rods without poppuing the outer end. break loose the big nut right before the end. then turn the WHOLE INNER ROD, there will be a flat spot to grab onto with a wrench. with the outer ends off, pull back the boot for the inner end, and there will be a staket washer, just bend the tabs down, and unscrew them so when you put it back together, your alignment at the outer end will remain

a 5spd conversion will make a BIG difference, as it will actually letthe motor hit its power curves in all the gears since the car is already 4wd, all the 5spd swap will be a direct bolt on, fit stock, even the shifter console plate!

in like the idea of building shelves on the sides, over the wheel wells, like that in a commercial van, put mesh behind them so tools dont go thru the window!

what's with the "samo" hood, did you do that or was it like that? i think the car looks very clean minus the GL top trim on the sides, and the absence of a roof rack any ea82 springs will fit, as long as you find ones with the height you are looking for. try any 2wd turbo springs 87 and up struts dont have the height adjustment, so consider that if you replace them

carb and spfi heads will interchange. but the passenger side head may have a different egr fitting. usually its on the top, but some carb heads have it near the exhaust port. driver side heads are no difference if the egr location is different, just keep the egr tube that goes to the head, since it connects to the intake in the same location(i suggest you look and compare first)

yes it does..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11614 this is an ej22 going in an ea82 wagon, full time 5spd xt6 tranny but in a legacy, the axles will still fit on the xt6 tranny

SPARE TIMING BELTS! you never know when one can go for whatever reason, as long as you are comfortable with fixing it off the side of the road make sure all the lights work, every one, license lite too, if you are travelling across states, in "foreign" land have at least a calling card so it doesnt use your cash if you have to make a phone call and dont drive on a suspended license in a car with no insurance, make sure the plates and paperwork are current.

and if no one has, then what? magnetic inductance, when a magnetic field is generated across a coil, and then is cut iff of electricity, the magnetic field will collapse, and therefore induce current across a smaller coil with more turns, and thus generates a current of higher volotage, but less amprerage someone DID mention carbon from the switch contacts ARCING wouls line loss have to do more with voltage drop, or loss of an rf signal?

now i got as far as having the subframe built up, with motor and trans mounted. I will be using the SHIFTER from the CAR, on the 5spd full time, and the xt6's TRANNY MOUNT. the motor mount holes are slotted and lined up so the dowels on the mounts go thru. i also used the ej22 mPOWER STEERING LINES connected to the EA82 RACK i have found that i will be FORCED to use the XT6 KNUCKLE, ROTOR, to keep the parking brake style CALIPER. they are bolted to the LEGACY STRUT, and the strut has the EA82 CAP the assembly is ready to slip under the car. the struts are mounted to the strut towers. i will install the motor/frame first. then connect the axles and ball joint. the front will be using XT6 tierod ends i still have yet to compare xt6 and legacy axles, but i need the 1-1/8" socket(yosh has it). the axles are the same length, i want to know if the splines are, because one of the xt6 axles has a torn boot. i will have xt6 on one side, and legacy on the other if they indeed do fit the same STRUT

oki, now i am doing my suspension, so far i have built up the crossmember with xt6 swaybar, and spare ea82 control arms that have been drilled out for the legacy ball joint.

try checking the hoses themselves the sedan would ingest oil, and it was due to the hoses being clogged up like a bad coronary artery. we replaced them with standard 5/8" hose, and all was good

its real easy, you pop the door [panel off. and the top padded part and the door pocket are held on by screws cut the carpet to fit, and install the pices, so the screws go thru the carpet. it will hold itself together on the back doors, only the top and door handle will hold on, so i used some nylon zip ties on the bottom

now i have the ENTIRE FRONT SUSPENSION, CROSSMEMBER out of the car. i also have the struts and knuckle out of the leganus i took a few pics http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/ej22

Skip, that is out of line. let it be known that i AM EDUCATED in AUTOI ELECTRICS. so just cause i didnt know something doesnt mean i cant figure it out. and this was on the RX, not the trashwagon as far as trashwagons go, and with my posts telling how i did things, that is what works for me surely i have enough sense to wire something that would not be a hazard, you just dont know. suppose if you have SEEN MY PROJECTS IN PERSON, you would think differently and see that i know what im doing and besides, wheres your ej22 project. its all about how crative you can be, rather than how much book knowledge you know. at least im driving my projects, cause they work!

an axle can be fixed off the side of the road with: axle nut socket/bar 17mm socket 14mm socket 3/16" drift punch jack 3lb hammer ball peen hammer socket extension or pipe(to push axle thru long pipe or 2x4, 3 or four feet in length place car on jackstand(broken axle side) pop the tie rod by installing the nut upside down, flush with stud, and a quick WHACK with the hammer turn the strut towards the front of the car place the jack under the STUD for the ball joint, jack it up to load the suspension use the hammer to WHACK the lower control arm, tp pop the bal;l jount, the preload of the swaybar will help pull it away slip the pipe or 2x4 between the axle and lower control arm, and prop it against the framerail, push down to pull the strut out of the ball joint hole(and to put it back in) pop out the axle pin, pull strut away till axle comes off trans thread the AXLE nut on backwards till its flush with spindle, WHACK with hammer to start it out. once the nut bottoms out, remove it(set parking brake to hold still) now use tha round end of the ball peen hammer against the axle, and whack that with the ig hammer to push the axle further. use a pipe or long extension, and hammer to push it all the way thru. now bwfore you install the new axle, put the axle on the trans end, install pin, remove the caliper, bracket, and rotor, so that you can tap the knuckle to start the axle, then put the rotor on, the nut, toi draw it thru till you can put the washers on FOR TIMING BELTS install them with NO COVERS, so you can service them without removing the radiator, alt/ac bracket. or crank pulley. the belts can be replaced in 20 minutes

i converted my 83 turbo to power window. i took all the harness and motors from a donor, and my car had the plug ins for the harness remove the corner kick panels near the front floorboards, and look to see if the loyale has the plug ins the motors will ount the same, but get some PW door panels to go withm for the switch mounts, and to eliminate the crank hole