MilesFox

make sure to use a 1/4" drive ratchet, and be easy on tyhe bolts so you dont twist them off. when tightening, and if you dont have a torque wrench, tighten the bolts till snug, then 1/4 turn, dont tighten too much, its threaded in aluminum singe you have to tear down thr motor so far, you may consider doing the timing belts or water pump at the same time when tightening, snug the longest bolt first, then the 3 around the sprocket, then the one on the left. then torque in the same order read this too http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/oilpump.htm Subaru Service

ok, now the motor cranks over. the bendix gear is *slightly* engaged like it is, but i am going to go with this till i get it running, since it now turns over i am using a tock ea82 starter. suppose i could grind away the corners of the teeth on the bendix gear later on, since i have spare starters

ok, the starter is mounted. on the top hole, ihad to tap out for a 17mm bolt, since the hole i drilled missed some of the metal. the bendix gear is hitting something, just clicks, so it looks as if i am going to grind away on the plate on the inside

the way we have ours, same size wire, 20 amp fuse. maybe we should go 15 if anything the switch is one of the LIGHTED variety, but the way we have it connected, of you ground the switch, the fan comes on. kight wont work that way. but i had the idea of an INDICATOR on the dash, connected to the hot side of the FAN ITSELF, so whenever the fan is getting juice, the lught comes on. ground the light to the body

i woild say its the cam cover, as mine leaks on the passenger side header you can service it in the car, although i find it easier to remove the nut from the motor mount on one side, and jack the motor up 2-3 inches, so you can get a socket in there. less frustrating than a wrench, or your soclet hetting stuck because it backs into the framerail

tranny now mates against plate. i installed a stud at the bottom, tapped the dowels for bolts, and drilled 2 holes on the top for bolts. the bottom passenger side stud threads thru the plate thru the block. the other side i will have to use a bolt. i removed the starter stud and treaded a ling stud thru to the block now i have drilled out the flywheel, using the AT's flex plate retainer as a template. i had to work the holes a little with the DREMEL, but now all the bolts tread in, and the heads cover all of the hole.. i could keep going, but its late. tomorrow i will take a sanding disc to the flywheel, mount the clutch, and bolt up the tranny. from there i will mock up the starter, to see how the teeth engage, with 12 v. so long as i secure the motor so it doesnt torque itself out of its bucket! (trans hung in the hoist) hopefully i will get as far as pulling the crossmember, and installing the motor/trans form underneath(suspension mods at the same time) so far i have $43.18 wrapped up in this project. 30 for the metal, and the rest for a tap, drill bit, and jigsaw blades(pair) so now all the work has been done, as long as the starter lines up.

on my 83 wagon, the original speedo would not thread in, because there is too much plastic before the treads, the hole is not deep enough (4wd 5spd)

the way i have it hooked up, i am using thesame gage wire that is on the thermoswitch plug, something like an 18ga (by eyeball), so if the circuit has the same size wire, whats the problem, and the toggle switch is fused ok, if there is no relay(i assumed) my bad. but the toggle is doing the same thing as the thermo switch in the "same location" as on a schematic either way, the fan still has fatter wires on its plug 87 RX MPFI TURBO

check the seal on the input shaft in the trans. do the rear main seal while the motor is apart from the tranny. do the cam seals, camcovers, front seal if the pressure plate isnt grooved or has heat marks, a clutch disc itself will do ya. make sure the throwout bearing spins nicely

6'2 1/2 i fit in my gl10 wagon just right, when i ride passenger the shifter hits my knee i swapped in xt seats, it sits lower, more headroom, legroom under 'wheel

sounds like it s running hot. suppose the foam in the oil could be from steam, the cooling system not being pressuruzed, maybe a head gasket letting go

skip, lets see the schematic for comparison, i devised this circuit from what i have read from the board, how the fan works works for the RX no problem

my bad, i misread EA81. but if you have an ea82 motor in your ea81, the wires hook up and work the same. the distributors themselves are of tha same design(from what i had,) but the gear or the shaft may be different

skip, i must PROVE YOU WRONG, as we have a WORKING EXAMPLE in the RX the thermoswitch wires off the radiator, is pretty much "shorted" by a toggle switch, and has an in-line 20A fuse the thermoswitch has some 18ga wire, and the FAN wires are FATTER. no high draw thru this. and it will kick the fan on in the ACC position

trashwagons are ludicrous. push-buttons are NEAT-0

hmm, an ej22 with dual xpipe and cherry bombs. i have the parts...just let me find a recording device

the electric fan is turned on by a thermoswitch in the radiator, near the drain plug when it reaches a set temp, the switch closes and thus trips the fan relay but what if you wnat to turn the fan on yourself? easy. on the 2 wires that go to the switch, splice in 2 wires, each to the 2 terminals on a toggle switch you can turn the fan on , and if the temp switch kicks on, the fan is on anyway if you forget to turn the fan on, dont worry, the thermo switch will still come on an easy low amp wiring solution, no relays involved

invest in a valve removal tool and a dremel(with snake atatcment), and PORT THE HEADS instant turbo response, better bottom end, better high rpm if you had a carb block laying around, go with that. cut out the airbox, install a cherry bomb what we did with the RX, costs us no more than the gasket set, and a hand ful of dremel bits http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html look far enough and you will see the ported heads

ok, now i got my 11/32" drill bit. my recesses are ground out on the trans bellhousing, just a little more work to mate. the bolts that hold the plate on, i trimmed a corner off each head, to make room for the bottom studs, less grinding on trans the input shaft lines up bBEFORE the recesses, so now the only spacing will be 3/8. i am pretty sure i wont need a flywheel spacer as long as the starter engages i will have it mocked up tonite, studs, thread locker. then i will drill the flywheel

you can go with that, but put a switch in-line so you can turn off the pump if the key is on for whatever reason, not running i myself would just run a hot wore, with a switch to the STRIPED WIRE on the pump, and the other one ground to body you can run your wire along or under the center console, from the back of the console under the carpet, and under th4e seat thru the brake or fuel lines grommets the dist triggers the pump when its turning, but it comes on for 2 seconds as soon as you turn the key to RUN(to pressurize try connecting the GREEN TEST CLIPS together, then turn the key on, the pump should cycle on and off. if it DOES cycle, your problem lies elsewhere than the relay

for the trans crossmember, you will need to swap that with. its easiest to install the trans with the crossmember atatched. you will remove 2 bolts from the auto's frame, and use the LONGER bolts that came with the MT crossmember swap driveshaft, rear diff the turbo flywheel will fit the same, uses same clutch parts too. get some longer bolts if you dont have any with the flywheel, they use a finer thread than the standard 1.25 i believe its 1.00 thread, M 10. take an pld pressure plate boly with u for comparison the 88 DOES NOT have a neutral switch, but the loyale does. it should be on the pedal box, but it will not be used on the 88. you WILL have to bypass the auto's neutral safety, either jump a wire in the shifter harness, or simply go pushbutton from the fuse panel(or other 12 v source) to the spall prong on the back of the starter. that circuit is low amps, so a bug heavt duty"starter switch" is not necessary, just use a other purpose button, or the "horn switch" they sell at autozone

use a flat prybar or a BIG screwdriver, get in there between the mount and the frame, and wiggle it around till a stud drops thru. ince one stud drops, the other one will go in easier. there is no difference in the mounts, in fact, an ea82's mounts will fit the same in an ea81 body

ALL LOYALES, 1985 thru 1994, use the same FRONT hub for 4wd and 2wd. either will work. rear hubs are different a brat hub will bolt on, but the spacing for the rotor may be different. i would go with the 2wd hub for certainty

its a direct swap. all the distys for 85-86, and 87 carb models will work the same i got an 86 disty on my spfi block with a carb in a turbo wagon, and my 83 ea81 wagon with an ea82 motor uses the 86 disty. you cant go wrong on this one

jims wagon made noise, replaced an axle. it still made noise, not as much, replaced the other axle. during the other axle, i noticed there were a FEW BALLS MISSING from the bearing race