MilesFox

how about ej22 trashwagons?

NE indiana, and represent the Subaru Alliance!

its all cut out. now i have it bolted to the motor thge bolts i used were a 17mm head, so i had to grind recesses in the tranny bellhousing. i will be using original studs from the 2.2 and ea82 cause o wont find them in the hardware store i will drill thru the plate till i strike meat on the motor where i can, tap it m10 1.25 i will drill and tap the the dowels, and use bolts with nuts. there are 2 spots on the top of the ea tranny that can be drilled for bolts with nuts. i need to get an 11/32" drill bit for the studs, tap. i will do that tomorrow. the input shaft slides in as it is, with 3/8 thick aluminum, and the heads of the bolts. i will dtrim the corner on the bolts to allow for the studs i may attempt a flywheel spacer, but first i will try without, may use the ej22 flexplate retainer. i will use that to drill out the flywheel, as a template, and maybe to brace the flywheel after its drilled if i maintain the exact alignment woth the holes, they will be oblong, and the flywheel can still be used on an ea82 motor. the legact and ea82 bolts are the same size for the fltwheel to crank, i will be using ea82's as far as the bottom studs, no i did not align them with the ea trans. i tool them out of the ej22, put the ej in a bucket, and hung the trans from the hoist, and lined up the pilot bearing to the flywheel, which just fits on the crank snout in the back

any disc brake will work. you can swap min ea82 drums too, at least they are bigger you can also esilt modify a whole ea82 trailing arm to the brat, for example if a bearing was bad, and ea82s are more available 2wd discs will not fit a 4wd altogether, but the ROTORS and CALIPERS will fit the same. the hub is different, but unboltable from the rotor

if the trans comes with the mechanism, get all the vac lines and wires that will come with it. i think you could find away to use the at's vac source if youre creative not only that, you have to bypass the neatral safety, its in the console, jump a wire. i forgot which wires, but i picked a wire and jumped the other s one by one, the prndl on the dash would lite up whatever, until i jumped one till the key turned over you will also have to wire up the reverswe light

TRASHWAGON 5. try a search, see my sig

BRADD, the 19th date is the PLANNED date, and it will be a go if it falls into place by then. I have a backup plan that involves the head honcho at work, to "piggyback" my way out on his proposed trip to seattle. SUPPOSE ANYONE NEAR THE BORDOR WOULD HARBOR MY CAR? anyway, i have a lot of CONSTRUCTION work lined up for the immediate future, things are looking good at work, and for the company i would like to bring TRASHWAGON 6 out, being a wagon, but we have the RX if it cant make it if i do come in #6, it will have good axles, and 2 spares. as far as a reliable motor, i havent found a carb, and wont have a turbo motor by then. BUT I HAVE AN EJ22. i have started on the adapter plate, it would be the tits to drive a PAIR OF TRASHWAGONS on the way back! glad you got the money order, being that i didnt have much faith with the MAIL. i still owe another 40, i will either send that out, or bring it with, email me how you want to do that My plates are due in march, so i need to get insurance before i can renew. so i will be bringing a LEGAL SPANKIN' NEW license plate for #5, insurance of course. that is the only thing that can go wrong, so i will have that taken car of first. and its too much a risk to go to idaho, dont want to go to jail there again, with a warrant out already. and besides, 373.50 will go towards my cars rescue before i pay that damn county. but things look good, i will pay it when i can swing it, so it doesnt hinder FUTURE ROAD TRIPS.

ok now, i scored a chink of aluminum 15"x13" 3/8" thick. i have already drawn and traced out the templates for both the ej and ea bellhousings. right now i have started to CUT with a JIGSAW. i found it cuts smoother if i gice a squirt of PB blaster. i plan on having it cut, drilled, and tapped tonite. already got a 10mm 1.25 tap. i found some nifty countersunk socket cap bolts, but they dont come in 1.25 threads. so i am going to have to be inventive here. i got some hex head bolts to start with, lets see what happens

cool, i saw the pictures last night, and it looked very much like whatt i was thinking to do with steel and studs. but the steel ide wont work, because with the aluminum i can have the depth for THREADED studs, and recessed bolts for the motor i am going to look for aluminum today 15 inches wide by 12 inches tall. i will use whatever thickness is available, and use some of the cut out to have a flywheel spacer made. i will work the adapter myself, and myoss feece has access to a BAND SAW, the spacer i will roufg out, drill the holes, and have a machinist turn it down gfor me, and cut the hole in the middle. i will give the machinist the spacer plate that came off the ej22 for dimensions. there is one around here that costs 50 bucks an hour. ut obviously thats worth it for an ej22 against my choice of 5spd (full time xt6, but eventually into trashwagon5, dual range) i will put the ej in trashwagon6, leave the turbo mpfi harness there for now, then put the ej motor in trashwagon 5, after i have a turbo motor for 6

ALL ea82 REAR HALF of the driveshafts are the same. since you have a 5spd, and are using parts of a 5spd, it will fit if for example the parts car was an automatic, the REAR half will still fit the same. the difference between 5spds and autos is the FRONT HALF, carrier bearing forward, because the trannies themselves are different lengths

make sure to get all the electricals that go with the pushbutton mechanism

pop the disty cap and see if it turns with the motor. if not, broken belt if it does, then line things up to see if its in time, to see if the belt slipped i had a belt strip some teeth once, crank would turn, but not the cam. the car will still run if the passenger belt is broken, but only on 2 cyl the first time i experienced a broken belt, on a friends car, we cranked and cranked, the car would ALMOST start, but that is trying to run on compression and dieseling. also, pop off the outer belt covers and inspect the belts, see if they are broke, or if the cams turn too

i read a little on that last night with the search, but i disnt see any pics. i will look again at least if i can see an example, it will give me an idea of what to do. so far the only example i had seen was one BRATSRUS had (uninstalled), it was one of 2, which i believe the other one CORKY had in ULTIMATE RX

i was right. time came to renew my plate, so i mentioned a discrepency with my title. i said that i wasnt taken seriously the first time, and it was never looked up. so i go in today to look it up, mentioning the jf2 thing. sure enough, the lady cracks open a book, ans counds back so many letters, and I WAS CORRECT! the title SHOULD say 4w instead of 4s. but for me to correct that anf get am MPV plate, it will cost me 15 bucks for a new title. so i have to pay for their f*ckup. the dum bizzle owes me 15 bucks! i hope they have a form to have the state reimburse me just like the time i registered my motorcycle, made mention to spell my name right. sure enough she spelled it wrong, printed it out. and from right there i would have had to pay again to correct it. stupid but what do you expect from a license service system that will inadvertently allow you to have a different address on the license, registration, and title. and the name spelled different on each one i'll be damned if i get a "false and fictitious" ticket because my title says sedan when im driving a wagon oh well, the truck plate is more, at least i know what to do from here, its all good now

the iac or aav valve above the thermostat housing introduces air, a "false" vac leak to increase idle. it is open cold, and closes warm. perhaps it is not closing? pinch off the hose between it and the throttle body and see if that changes anything

actually, the FRONT half of the driveshaft is the only thing different in length between the 2. keep that in mind if u joints go out, just replace the rear half

looks like im gonna have to find me a nifty chunk of aluminum, for now...

my technique involves no special tools i jack up the car by the stud of the ball joint enough to load the suspension, then i pop out the tie rod with a hammer(nut reverses, flush with stud) to turn the strut enough to whack the lower control arm with a hammer, to pop the ball joint. then i will use a 2x4 or long bar to push the control arm down, then pull the strut away, to remove the axle from the tranny end(pin already out) from there the axle will float around enough to pop it out from the front fairly easy this way, and you can stick to the procedure without a ball joint separator or special tools. its less work that way in my opinion, and more room to work with anyway, glad you got yours fixed, it worked for you

so i have this leganus with a 2.2 motor. well, i pulled it out to see how it would fit against a full time 5spd the bottom studs line up, but the trans is offset to the motor that way. i compared the flywheel, and the holes are the same size and pattern, just farther apart. the center for the crank is the same size. i removed the studs, stuck the flywheel on(no bolts) and lined up the input shaft. i need to figure a way out to make an adapter plate, i found some pieces of hot rolled steel, have the idea to weld on some studs. the holes between trans and motor are too close to make side by side bolts, i would like to drill and tap itf there is enough meat. so far i can do the flywheel, if i can just figure out an adapter. if all else fails, i can go with the ej 2wd auto just so i can do the swap, to have a reliable motor instead of some floppy carb (87 gl-10 turbo (carbbed spfi block) wagon, half a 5 lug suspension)

i like to pop the tie rod out as it gives me more room to move things, and slip a 2x4 in there to push the control arm down. i left the brakes on when i pulled the axle, but i like to remove the caliper(line and park-cable still connected) and bracket to tap the knuckle with a hammer to start the axle. but you can leave it on if the parking brake has been engaged the whole time, and you dont booger the splines in the hub

there is like some 720 deg of crank rotation for the procedure. it is common for a botched job to have the cams 180 off and lined up to TDC rathere than the 3 marks the 3 marks means that ALL of the pistons are in the MIDDLE of their stroke. with the open belts like in the pictures, i can knock out a timing belt job in under 20 minutes. one more thing, the oil or water pumps might as well be serviced at the same time, since its tghe same amount of work to get to them

jim and his wifew tried to get the car out before we showed up. i got there and got it out on the third "rock" hence my clever driving technique

DO NOT use a 1/4 punch, as it will get stuck. a *slightly* smaller than 3/16 will work, as long as it doesnt want to go IN the pin itself

once you get experienced with the axle procedure, you will be able to do one by removing only the ball joint, tierod, and caliper. the axle will come out with the rotor in place(park brake set) but i recommend removing the rotor to install(tap on the knuckle to start axle. once you get familiar, the procedure for one axle can be narrowed down to around 20 minutes

is the speedo itself working? tjhe sensor is in the instrument cluster, and is for things like cruise control so if speedo isnt reading, check the cable. my 83 wagonhad cruise on jims sedan, he accidentally pulled away the speedo cable while changing heater hose, thus resulting in no speedo, and a VSS code on the ecu