MilesFox

the dash warning lights should appear dim or start glowing when they sould be out if the alternator is not charging. It's likely the alternator is failing. You can have it load tested. The serpentine belt and alternator mounting is very simple, it can be removed with 12mm tools.

My sentiments the same. I am on a hoard of a few parts with no cars to put them on, and anyone who can use whole parts too far away to be practical. I had to have guys from michigan come my way to rescue parts for their cars Inspect the governor gear at least. If its not stripped, the component can be cleaned out and function restored. It's a super easy R&R If you need a taillight (wagon) i have one that will fit in the mail if you need it.

Anea82 radiator can be made to fit, if necessary. Use a flex-o hose for the lower, and use the ea81 hose for the upper. you will have to ground the thermo switch to the body. you might have to make some holes to or use zip ties to mount it, or get creative, but it will mostly fit there like it should.

You bought probably the best example of a subaru in terms of overall refinement with simplicity. The outback for 96 has the nefarious ej25d, but the 96 should have a composit head gasket instead of the metal layer gaskets that are prone to head gasket issues. Should you have engine trouble (interference timing belt) you can easily swap in a 2.2 from a regular legacy 95-97, and have the option to build 2.2 heads on the 2.5 block for performance gains. The car is not any less reliable than a newer model given the maintenance is kept up.

If the voltage spikes continue or become more prolonged, it risks burnign out components or boiling over the battery thus ruining it. The rule is a bad alternator will kill a good battery, and a bad battery will kill agood alternator. check the output lead on the alternator terminal as it can become corroed or brittle causing an abnormal resistance causing more draw on the alternator. Inspect the length of this white cable back to the battery terminal for broken insulation or corrosion.

if the 85-87-and 88 were ea82's, the radiator is different. There were ea81 still from 85-89 with hatchbacks, and thru 87 with brats, Hatchback is not to be confused with 'coupe' or '3-door' for 86-90. The parts listings for 85-89 can be mixed up with ea81 and ea82 as they overlapped in tose years. This if you are relying on listings, otherwise if you visit these cars at the yard, it will be obvious which ones would match with the same hood and grille style as your 82 wagon.

I get the impression the machine serves as a reservoir, and the engine running will draw fluid from the machine and pump it into a collection device. I only intend to replace the fluid to 'reset' my service interval.

if the oil level is low enough, the pickup will not suck oil momentarily while the car is in motion and the oil is sloshing around. Or it's moving around enough, but settles below the pickup while stopped, the oil light could come on as there are momentary losses in pressure. During a 3,000 mile oil change interval, it's not abnormal for a vehicle to use up to a quart in between changes, requiring the oil to be checked and added as necessary. Relying strictly on oil change levels does not guarantee suffiicent oil without physically observing the dipstick oil level. The engine will naturally use up oil from combustion in the cylinders as the oil is coating the cylinders and piston rings, and by crankcase ventilation thru the PCV valve. Some oil also will weep past the seals as it is under pressure, even though the seal is not failed or leaking. It's a fact of life that a Subaru of any sort will use a quart of oil now and again.

Yes, it was your posts i was reading in the search. Today was my 2nd day on the job and i noticed the machine stored in supply room. It appears to hold 12 qts and it has fittings for most domestic and euro vehicles, and universal fittings for other applications. The drain pit has a quick connect line that connects to either the machine or the car. I have the day off tomorrow and need to turn in some papers of payroll, so i can take a peek at the machine and find out more aout the model of machine and its procedure if anyone here would have experience with it. By all means the trans is not neglected or the fluids burnt, so i should be ok provided that this method is not 'not recommended' for the 4eat. The facility does have the customer sign a waiver for vehicles over 100,000 mi, and the literature on makes and models points out vehicles with premature or faulty trans issues by design. I've only been there 2 days, 12 working hours, still have to take everything in with what is there and what their services are capable of. I like the idea of adding fluid with the cooler line disconnected and let it drain onto the pit. I'll consider this if the machine is not recommneded. I'll have to be off the clock to service my own vehicle unless i pay the discounted employee price to have it serviced for me. The idea was to exercise their shop procedure to justify using their facility for work i can do myself at home.

Some slight opil residue could be considered normal. Likely the intiake is ingesting oil from the PCV valve. Consider replacing the PCV valve

Assuming your new fan is installed with the existing fan's wiring, you can manually override the fan by installing a switch that shorts the thermoswitch to gtround which turns the fan on. this way, if you forget to turn the fan in, it will come on by itself if it is wired up correctly

yes, they are opposite, as the heads are cast the same, but on opposite sides of the motor face opposite directions.

The rear part of the 2 piece driveshaft is the same between automatic and manual trans for 85-89 GL, DL, RX, 90-94 Loyale, and 85-92 XT. The u-joints are staked in, a toyota part number is compatible. Anyone experienced with toyota or nissan driveshafts should be able to do the work.

I was just hired at an oil change facility, and i will have access to their equipment, and service for the cost of materials. I wish to flush the trans for the fact that the equipment is at my disposal, and for using my own car to train on the machines. 1998 Forester 4eat 240,000 mi on trans with unknown service history. Pros, cons, and opinions please! I have yet to find out if the machine pumps the fluid through, or it lets the trans pump work it while running. I have searched and found more suggestions for drain and fill 3 times, but this won't be practical in the shop environment, and not practical in my driveway. The trans runs fine with no leaks or shifting issues. From my searching, the cons i have read would be backflow of fluid through valve bodies and clutches, or particulates breaking free. I just want to do the work as the existing fluid is unknown, the trans works fine, and i want to get another 100,000 miles out of (do the work and forget about it) it since the engine is swapped in with new seals and HG. I wat ot perform this service since i initially want to do the front and rear diffs at the same time, and use their facility to flush the coolant since i used reclaimed coolant when i installed the engine a few months ago (the rad needs a flush as the old motor had oil and carbon in the coolant)

Considering the amount of oil on the frame and what appears to be running off of it, i would suggest the cam tower o-ring is blowing out oil.

^^^ my comments reflect my experience of what to expect with a history of high mileage cars. I was suggesting what can get you by, but i don't suggest relying on that. Myself, i wouldn't want to trust my car over the road as the belt is at risk for failure. But mine is non interference, and i would detect the signs of when enough is enough before i should park it of fix it. I can fix it and have the parts, just need to put the car down to do the work.

Depending on salvage yar options it is possible o get the whole knuckle with axle. It is less labor to pull the part as a unit vs as individual parts. This depends on the donor vehicle. One time i found a junkyard car that had new axles and brakes already; bad engine

I like the milk crates, very clever. It's like the idea that i have wanted to build with a panel wagon, now i can realize it vicariously. I wanna see what you do with the tailgate.

My water pump has been leaking, 96 legacy (liberty 261,000 miles). I have had to add about a pint of fluid every other day as it drips out. You could get by if you keep a bottle of coolant on board, and top it off between drives. Best do it when the engine is warm and the thermostat is opne. You may have to burp out bbubbles. When the heater goes cold, it is time to add coolant before it's too low causing an overheat. If the coolant leverl is too low on a cold start, the temp gauge may show abnormally low as there is no coolant flowing over it, and then suddenly spike as the coolant boils over.

The FWD clutch disc should be a smaller diameter than a 4WD The step is different. The pressure plate is probably crammed up on the clutch fork. Is the engine

The mechanic is probably quoting you for dropping the tank. What he may not have thought of is dropping the rear frame to get at it. Likely, the leak is probably the fill tube, and its associated vent line. Suggest to your mechanic to inspect this part and remove the guard to look for rust or fuel seepage

Yeah a FWD would have 23 spline axles, where the standard for all other models is 25 splines. I bet the axle used was generically listed and mis-ordered. The mechanic should have noticed this if the old axle was the same problem. He probably noticed this when installing and just put it in to get the job done and the car out of the way. He was probably relying on the roll pin, and suggested something is slipping. Likely the roll pin is sheared off. You should be fine by replacing with the proper spline axle. OP had not mentioned AT or MT, but i believe the 23 spline axle relates to FWD 5MT trans

Keep the rust off it and it will last forever. What sort of electrical trouble is wit the steering column? The purge control solenoid should be an easy fix, located on the passenger side intake manifold runner

My comment with sea foam is applying the product and letting the engine stall out or shut it down so that the product can soak into everything while the engine is warm and not running, so that the product has time to do its magic before blowing it out of the tailpipe.

If the egr is failed open, i can cause stalling at idle. But it is likely the EGR is just carboned up to where the port is clogged closed anyway. I agree your idle issue is either a mis-read of the engine temp sensor (old or corroded) and causing the IACV to be slow to respond, or the IACV is slow to respond from carbon buildup. Allow the sea-foam to soak for a while after the engine is warmed up. The IACV can be removed and access is gained by removing the alterntator for a more through cleaning. Also check the PCV system and its associated hoses as they can be blocked by carbon buildup (depending on operating conditions and age/maintenance history)