MilesFox

just remember that cracks between tha valves are normal, even if they go down to the valve guides. cracks to watch out for would be ones in the exhaust port webbing, or in the coolant passage like in the pics above the throttle body sits on a gasket, it has water passages. describe how the car is running, from cold to warm, or if it gets hot at all

Skip, i KNOW you know of trashwagon6, 87 turbo with a carb, but of course, it didnt come that way. it came with no motor!!! anyway we used gl10 sedan doors on a wagon, having to swap in crank windows into them. so now you have heard of both!!

procedure is the same, although the loyale has longer axles, bigger knuckle, its built the same. the only thing different is the swaybar read this, as it may help performing ed's procedure http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/lowercontrol.htm for the brake caliper and rotor removal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/frontdisc.htm

on spfi models the green test clips will be under the hood, on the driver side firewall where the wiring harness comes out

the gasket you refer to is only on turbo motors. if you get the complete gasket set from NAPA, it will be included. the gasket and cover are part of the PCV system, where the pcv line goes into the top of the block here are some NAPA parts numbers, and soob parts guide genuine parts numbers NAPA genuine parts no. 85 up

i got all the parts for my conversion, and i am going to see if legacy axles will work. i also want to see if the xt6 caliper will boly up to the legacy knuckle, and to see if an ea82ball joint will fit in either the xt or the legacy knuckle my ultimate plan is to see if a 23 spline doj from a turbo axle will fit on a legacy 2wd axle, for use with a 23 spline tranny.

go to wal mart and pick up some generic athletes foot spray. i left my soob out in the rain one night with the sunroof open. the next day it had an ambient mildew smell brewing, but the foot spray quickly put an end to the smell till it dried out, it was a good preventative measure. but all in all its still not as bad as having a dog dook on 3 of the seats.....

my 83 2wd wagon had solid rotors, the 83 turbo had vented now as far as ea81 and ea82 spoked wheels, the main difference to tell from is: the spokes on an ea81 rim will meet the rim at close to a 90 drg angle, whereas the ea82 spokes will round out into the rim, basically the little "triangles" of space will have round corners on ea82, and sharper corners on ea81 if my analogies make sense....

the little capacitor is simply a noise coil for the radio as far as your mystery wires all YELLOW wires go to the NEGATIVE terminal all black wires will be the +. they should have red contacts, but not always.

we dont have inspectors here in indiana, so the challenge is to trick the license branch itself, such as renewing the same plate twice with no insurance, and the same plate rotating between several cars, whichever one is being driven. but whenever i go in for legitimate purposes, they usually think im up to something. so thus we get my name spelled wrong, and the wrong body designation when things are done right, their procedure. they piss me off "I said JF2!, now give me my MPV registration, its a 5w, not a 4s(body desig.)" f*'n pigs

brian, the one i will be doing will be pen, with crosshatch shading. suppose yp can CG color it, i can scan it as a greyscale and a line art, whichever one will do best for cg color. and keep a the greyscale copy for non colored version

if you are talking about a circlip, a big round one that takes up the inner circumfrence of the doj, simply slide the axle in all the way, and then the ring pops into a groove. if the ring pulled out, you may have to "expamd" it by pulling it wider, so it stays in if you are talking about the very end that goes onto the trans, the metal lipm that is just a dust cover, you can take it off or bend it out of the way.

get a good sized hammer, a 3 lb. with the diff in the floor WHACK the doj, turn it 1/4 a turn each whavk, and it should eventually come off. if you are successful, slather a good dose of anti-seize compound on the shafts

use the ultra grey anaerobic sealant

WHOA! i must have missed this one. Brian, i still have the one i started on, need to finish, i have been working a lot lately, havent had time. this is my first time back on my comp since i last hollered at you. but i have the day off, i will get to crackin'!! oh yeah, the drawing will be based off the photo above, but with 4 headlights, some custom goddies, and a *hint* of TRASHWAGON. its gonna have exaggerated suspension travel like some lowrider 3-wheel motion type drawings, but with big soob meats!

skip was right, this happened to me on my way back from jims, the hose came off, and i didnt notice it when i set off on my 100 mile trip within an hour of sewapping the intake/carb the heater vent selector is also connected to this, it is a fairly common problem for people to discover this, so if anyone reads this, keep that in mind >>--search keywords if this gets searched) push button 4wd vacuum canister heater selector vent control engage stuck 5spd--<<

i did this to my 83 turbo wagon. it drove ok, the wheels fit good. the only thing in question was the holes from the back and the lug nuts. but with this way, just re-torque the lugs a few times each so many miles, and it will be fine i posted this and got a lot of wheel bearing responses, but now that i think of the bearings how they are (4wd) it doesnt seem too much an issue. so if you can go a year on them, i dont think its too much a bad idea but with mine, i ran thru some mud, had no wipers, and hit a curb. it popped the tire, and slightly tweaked my alignment, so i put them back to normal. but that doesnt mean i wont do it again. just give me some wagon rims

did you have the timing belts off? maybe the tension is not tight enough, and the belt has slap, making a noise at the distributor, cause the cam is snapping up the slack. try removing the bolts from the distrubutor, and turn it past the holes. if it runs better one way or the other, maybe you are a tooth off. with this, you van pop the cap, lift up the disty, and turn the rotor one tooth each way, if it is off.

my example was to use chevy 6 lug rims, like on 1/2 ton 140mmx6 what i did was use a soob hub, pop out 2 opposite studs, and then bult it to the rim. then i used the hub to drill through the rim, and i uses 21mm lug nuts, that still have the subaru m12 1.25 thread, and 60 deg seat. i had to grind away the center of the rim to fit the hub there are other rims that will work, toyotas and such. im sure someoner can tell you about those. but i say use a rim that is suitable to drill through, if you go that route http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/cwdata/88sedanwheel.html http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/cwdata/RXDoorsOpen.html

the fuel pump will cycle on for a few seconds when you turn the car on. then, from there, it takes a pulse signal from the distributor to keep it on, hence having voltage when cranking i would say the pump circuit is fine, look more into the thermo switch as a culprit

if you use a 5spd dual range, or PB 4wd, then you are good to go, 23 spline axles. with that, your stock axles will work you wint need to have custom axles, but you can if you want to use a turbo tranny with 25 splines, or go with the suspension conversion. you can ONLY use ea82 axles if you do the front suspension conversion but yes, the axles will work with what you have, no worries there as far as the wiring harness, take it all, get it ti run, and eliminate what you wint need. a schematic will help in that department.

what you are seeing is the casting inside the exhaust and intake ports, looks kinda like fine cracks, but its in the casting. the "normal cracks" are between the valves, and if you take a valve out, it may go to the valve guides, no problem the cracks to WORRY about are the ones in the exhaust port WEBBING

turn the distributor to the right to advance

an ea82 will physically fit. dont forget all the wiring. but if you use a tranny from a NON TURBO (2wd 5spd, 4wd 5spd, 4wd pushbutton 5spd non turbo, or turbo 3AT will fit) all these have 23 splines, will fit no problem if you can find a ea81t front crossmember that would be nice, if you do, no motor mount mods. but if you can cut away the existing crossmember to clear the turbo crosspipe, you still shouldnt have to mod the mounts but any ragular ea82 will fit in a hatch with NO mods if you really want to get into a project, there IS a way to use ea82 axles in a hatch, but that requires mods to the front crossmember, and you will need pretty much a complete ea82 front suspension for parts. such has been done to TRASHWAGON 5 and rguyver's hatch with the ea82 axles

i plan on using my existing 4wd button for the diff lock in my 5spd full time that will go in.