MilesFox

i myself have put a turbo motor together on a carb block the crank pulleys are different, the turbo had a built in dampener. but we used the carb blocls pulley, for one, the carb block had no damper, and for two, we caouldnt get the crank bolt off the turbo block! so far we run 87 gas and stock 20-25 deg btdc timing, no pinkgs or detonation!!! we also ported the heads a little too, and we blended in the valve reliefs on the carb's pistons the only physival differences between the blocks, is the carb block does not have the pcv tubing hole on the top of the case. in this case we bypassed that with tsome 5/8 hose heres some pics of our build. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html

non turbo front axles (and turbo at axles) and ALL rear axles have a 23 spline

the RX we put the top end of onto a carb block, the motor ran fine but developed a rod knock. we pulled the heads, they both had the crack. the cracks were of the normal nature, and with that, the cracks go all the way down to the valve GUIDES, still, normal for these cracks. the crack may be splayed a little, enought to catch a finger nail on. but those are not too bad. whats bad is the valve seat falling out, so the punch to flatten the cracks sounds like good preventastive measure on an otherwise good head personally, the only questionable head that i used and had a failure on was one with a crack in the EXHAUST PORT, between the webbing, where there are water passages. as far as between the valves, its all metal, and no passages. the heads on the rx were both a gen 1 and a gen 2, but were both fine, and run good now with new head gaskets to answer the compression question, i would say its the head gasket itself. here are some pics of the RX, with the head and engine build. we ported these heads also, and are running them on a 8.5 compression carb block, with "shaved" pistons, before and after. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html

so what exactly do you have in mind for mods?

my car runs on 2 cyl till it warms up, i suspect bad plugs. start with changing your plugs, and go from there.

i would solicit him for the whole car, if its all there, could be fixed up

ea81 axles will fit on the shafts of a non turbo ea82 trans, but ea82 axles are too long for an ea81 width. but i8f you can fabricate, you can cut off a lower control arm mount from an ea82, and weld it to the ea81 crossmember, and this will allow use for the ea82 lower control arm and axles but with this modification you will have to swap in ea82 innet tie rod ends, or lengthen the ones you have. you will also have to ream out the ball jount iand tie rod holes, just simply use the ea82 knuckle and strut, with a modified ea81 strut cap. thats if you wanted to use ea82 axles but non turbo ea82 trannies, ea82 axles, and ea81 axles, as well as automatic turbo axles, are all 23 splines, and ALL rear axles are 23 splines as well

remember that you will have to swap the entire transmission with the rear end to match gears. but also, a non turbo trans should already be a 3.9 gear. you can only have a different rear gear if you run your 4wd as a RWD, removing a front axle. a non turbo mpfi should have 9.5 compression, the highest with stock pistons, you already have as high as they come stock, or swapping in other stocl parts.

now that i remember i had clearance isus with my swaybar, and i unbilted the whole frame, and started the bolts each, then tightened them up. i hate that stupid swaybar, as it was in the way for my dual exhaust build attempts. but since traswagon 5 (83 wagon)has ea82 front lower control arms, it doesnt look that hard to fab on an ea82 front swaybar, then use the xt6 'bar

well, if you do take everything apart, just compare and use the pieces that will fit in combination, since you will have everything you need parts wise between both vehicles. good luck!

oops, i over looked that. but the pics should hepl as far as the indtallation goes

bleed the master cylinder too. subaurs can be tricky with this, even with my experience

in my opinion i would rather use larger tires and rims to fill in the wheel wells rather than lower the ride. an example would be drilled chevy rims with camaro tires if you get properly sized bigger wheels, even though you might GAIN ground clearance, the stance will still be in proportion

try stacking some washers between the frame mounts and the body "Miles Fox Kit" 3 bucks in washers, to drop it down a half inch, if that will be enough. easier than chopping the swaybar

ok, the agreed date has been narrowed down to late may, early june. if anyone has ideas for which week would be best, lets hear it. labor day may be out of the question, because josh's womand bday falls on the holiday, he's whipped!

but how many ricer import type fellas that would buy the stuff off ebay would be sportin an ea82? not around here, thats for sure!!

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm check this out. might as well do your timing belts and water pump wrote it myself! with pics

for the most economical approach, i would swap on the carter/weber and its intake as a unit. only 2 gaskets and 6 bolts to do so the 2wd tranny will fit witn no mods. just take out the driveshaft. you can leave in the rear diff and axles, but you can take them out just the same. as far as the 2wd tranny, just swap over the clutch disc and pressure plate. use the existing flywheel the throuwout bearing may be different, you should be able to use the 4wd pressure plate with the 2wd clutch disc(the 4wd and 2wd clutch has a different spline for the tranny shaft) all of the tranny mounts and clutch cable will fit the same. the trans tunnel in the brat will be larger than the one on the 2wd wagon, but there should be no issues there. you might have to take out the 4wd lever , but you should be able to just leave it there. hope this helps, since that is what you wanted to do to begin with.....

yes, i could write up about exhaust, pertaining specifically to subaru applications, combination of parts, et. right now, between my, my buddies, and toms subarus, we will have 4 examples to write about. we will be playing with the exhaust on the RX, so turbo applications too

i have driven on OPEN PORTS, i mean, no ypipe at all. drove it enough to determine it doesnt hurt anything. went baja'n thru mud, water and outran the sheriff one night in the field with open ports if you lost a stud or a nut, you may have blown out the gasket

the ea81 flywheel will be too small for the 5spd's clutch disc. you will have to determine if your stuck 5th gear is the linkage itself, or internal. iu think it would be best to keep the 5spd shifter as it is, and get it to fit your existing shifter console the ea81 4wd lever will just not be connected to anything on the full time trannies

here is what i do. i will thread in the 3 bolts and snug them, then i will install the belts. with the belts on, i will turn the bolts about 1/4 after snug, using a 1/4 drive ratchet. once that is done, then i will adjust the belt tension. the easiest way to do the belt tension without special tools is to manually grab the sprocket and turn it so the DRIVEN side of the belt is tight(the side opposite of the tensioner. that, or use a flat screwdriver in one of the holes on the cam sprocket, and tap it with a hammer to draw the driven side of the belt tight. once the driven side of the belt is tight, that is when you let the tensioner take the slack from the other side of the belt

a brat is a brat, auto or not, i would get any that i could find, with the consideration of swapping in a manual tranny if that was all i could find

i remembered ordering a filter for my 83 turbo wagon, and the screen was a different shape. i had to bend a corner, and almost all of the bolts lined up. but i got it to fit anyway.

so far the rx with ported heads and carbbed short block does not ping, with the timing set at a hair above 25deg, and using 87 pump gas