MilesFox

may i use the link for my website, for my mods page i will be working on?

that was a nissan. s set of soob belts will be about 25 bucks and 4 hours time. dont refuse a soob t-belt motor over a nissan!!!

dont worry about the cam box journals. just keep the original cams with their cam boxes. if anything, clean out the oil passages real good

dont forget the driveshaft, as it is slightly longet than an at driveshaft. the front half that is. you will need along with the tranny, the crossmember and its bolts. you remove 2 of the bolts on the frame, and the MT crossmember fits there swap in the clutch pedal box and its cable. keep the diff that comes with your choice of tranny a 5spd dual range, or pushbutton 5spd from a non turbo will fit your axles no change to the rear axles, just swap the diff with the trans get the entire clutch and flywheel assembly

as far as complicated bends, the only place for that is the rear axle. from the ypipe tp the diff, straight pipe will do. i would end the exhaust right before the diff, or curve it out before the back wheel Dual x pipe on the sedan: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/88sedan/xpipesedan.jpg Toms dual exhaust made from electrical conduit: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/82brat/tomexhaust.jpg homemade doit yerself make from scrap dual exhaust: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/dualdooktubulars.jpg cherry bomb and straight piupe on single exhaust: http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/trashwagon5/cherrybomb.jpg

skip, i remembered the fan on my grand am had 10 ga wire, and it got the relay hot enough to mely the plastic around the terminals. but this was a GM, this is what i drew my assumption from i would go with a 15 amp rating from what skip said.

try reading this, it describes the entire belt procedure, with pics http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm the haynes book is not wrong, but the pic does not show the crank rotation the idea is rotate the crank 360 degrees, so the cam turns 180. bitche d belt jobs either missed that step, or turned the first cam 360 deg

check to see if a hose leaked, losing coolant. that would explain no heat, maybe it busted a hose, and lost power as it got hot check the coolant level, watch for steam in the exhaust or under the hood

check the front diff gear oil for signs of ATF

it will fit like a 5spd install, but the axles will not work. you will at least need turbo ea81 axles, and an ea82 25 spline doj. the ea81 flywheel will not work, but ea82 4wd 5spd flywheel, clutches will work. and you will need the mechanism for the diff lock, i think a 5spd pushbuttin system will work for the diff lock. tou will have to custom mount the shifter

smaller pipes will give better pull, lower rpm torque, wheras bigger pipes will have better highway mileage and open throttle response at higher rpm my rule to pipes is, use a stock size pipe, 1 3/4 inch from the heads for dual exhaust to a muffler (cherry bomb) and then 2 1/2 to 4 in pipe, for sound single exhausts i run a cherry bomb rught behind the y pipe, and fat rump roast pipe after the muffler

redline isnt so much the motor wants to fly apart, but rather its the valvetrain cant keep up with the rpm, floating and bouncing... its not going to hurt to touch redline, but gouing in the redline has no benefit. but you can take up to 7000 rpm shifting all day if u like the point at which you shift is the rpm you want it to be in for the next gear

on the rx, we ran it thru the speedo cable grommet on the firewall, down behind the center consile, ubder the console. then under the carped behind the parking brake, comes out under the back seat, then thri the split in the rx back seat

if you wish, have a new center pipe made to have the glasspack after the ypipe flange, use a 2 inch bomb, and run as fat as you want pipe out the back. the ypipe will do the scavenging, the glasspack will do the backpressure, anything after that is just pure flow.

you can adjust the tie rod bt backing off the big 19mm nut a few threads, there is a flat spot on the inner tie rod, get on that with a 17mm wrench, and that way tou dont have to pop the tierod out of the knuckle

o would say a 30 amp relay would be good, what does the fuse say?

3 hours is pretty good for a motor swap when my turbo dooked, i swapped in my carb motor in one night. i started when josh left for work around 5, and i finished right when he came home at 9, was ready to fire it up! also, tom and i were at jim's, we tore apart a non running turbo, did the HG and seals, tbelts, had the motor done, tom left, and jim and i installed the motor, had it running that night we startedlike 8-9 in the morning, we fires it up at 4 in the morning i have been known to pull up in the carbola in the morning, and have a otor swapped by the time i had to go to work. drive in with one motor, drive out with another it took me about 5 hours over 2 days to do the imnpreza clutch, ej motors are easier to pull, less stuff to disconnect sorry if i hijacked, or is this going to be about how quick one can swap a motor? anyway, im sure you will be driving it by the time you read this

on spfi, the temp gauge sensor is on the bottom front of the thermostat housing, one single blade terminal, use that hole the other one is for the ecu, leave it there on carbs, ots near the thermostat, its the only sensor, that hole works the fittongs with the hit will work, the threas is pitched *slightly* different, but it will thread, use teflon tape or pipe putty

yes, my trashwagon5 was featured there, sheetmetal and lift was labelled "the worst car ever" soeone took a pic from a contract we cleaned for

the speed sensor will flash you i believe a code 36. the speed sensor is there for the cruise control unit. as far as the heater goes, check around the vacuum canister on the passenger strut tower, there will be a skinny line from the motor, and black plastic lines along the firewall, just below the cown rubber seal http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/vacuumcan.jpg

the mod can be done for the front of a gen 1, but the rear, you will have to swap in an ea81 suspension, so that the ea82/xt6 rear trailing arms will work. i dont know if the rear 5 lugs will bolyt on to an gen 1. but if someone has done a rear disc swap to a gen 1, then it will work

4wd donuting wit the diff lock on dry blacktop with 205/55 16 inch tures was no effort for the RX! i'm sure we picked up at least 15 hp

well, if its not hoolding back pressure, all the fuel is going back to the tank rather than thru the injector

its very possible that the head has dropped a valve seat. the only heads i have seen that were too bad to use had loose valve seats. one head that was questionable that i used, took a dump later, i suspect a dropped valve seat also a compression test will verify this.

you can wire the pump tp a toggle if you wish. just be sure to turn it off when u turn the car off. you can also wire the pump tp the positive terminal on the coil, so the pump comes on with the key.