MilesFox

on my turbo build, one of my heads was questionable with a crack in the exhaust port. when i started the car in the morning, i would get a little steam, and some coolant smell, as water must have leaked out into the crosspipe overnite. if you have the heads off, or at least the cross pipe, look for cracks in the exhaust ports

the short block we used was from an 87 carb 4wd 5spd wagon. well, we got it running today. the rotor was right on, we switched some wires, and gave it a shot of starting fluid. it started to fire, i turned the distributor and it lit up. we started out at like 10deg btdc, but found that it would not pull much past 4000 rpm, so a little tweak more, better. still no complaining from the engine. so now the timing is just a HAIR ABOVE the stock timing, motor pulls all day. we started on 87 octane, so we topped off with 87. i dont think we will have to worry about knocking the timing back till we get into boost mods. in first gear, rolling, mash the gas and the turbo comes on at 1700 rom, vs the 2500 it did before. you can get a god pull before the boost lite comes on, as the higher compression helps out in the torque department. i think if we can eliminate the exhaust, use fat pipes and acherry bomb, it will let the heads breathe better. cherry bomb right after the down pipe will be the idea to use. we also cut the bottom of the air box out, you can hear nice turbo noises between shifts. the throwout bearing was creaking a bit, but it goes away after the car is driven around. we will have to keep an eye on that.... so now we stuffed 13.32 gallons of gas, and reset the trip meter. the car has about 10 miles before the trip reset, so the trip will measure the fuel economy, and the miles on the motor since it was put back together. I would rate this build as a success, now we have a good platform to build further on

well, the 87 has a hitachi, and so do all the carbbed ea82's, so the weber kit you found will have the adapter plate for the intake you are using.

the one with the white stripe is power. the solid black one can be grounded to the body.

we used a similar to a "roto-zip" bit for a dremel tool with the flex extension. i chamfered the valve reliefs, and worn down the little nougat between the reliefs, to kind of blend them in, emulate the "dish" of a turbo piston. i did notice about a mmillimeter clearance from the top of the piston and the deck. with all my soob experience, i see the pistons look the same as spfi pistons. But i have recalled the compression specs for motors, i hear of 8.5, 9.0, and 9.5 compressions. i also read that turbos have different stroke, i would assume that turbos have a short stroke, for rpm, and carbs have a long stroke, for torque anyway, i believe this motor will be very practical, reliable, and with the ported heads hope to have picked up 10 hp just right there. with my turbo wagon, i noticed that the turbo came on at around 2000 rpm, sooner than the RX. (2500 rpm) but the car did not run when i got it, needed head gasket, so i dont have anything to compare the ported heads to a "before" but compared to the RX. it had enough torque to rip a tire loose in 2nd gear, from rolling, when the car ran right. i got it running mostly right to have it take a dook as well

actually, northguy, i got the mod idea from rguyver, after he had a diagram of the lower control mount relocation. i had pondered the mod before then, was told it could not be done. so far i am the only one with this mod after rguyvers hatch. but i totally endorse the mod for anyone contemplating suspension mods thanx rguyver!

well, one of my xt6 axles has a torn boot on the DOJ, so i will see if an ea82 25 spline doj will fit. If so, then i believe a 23 spline TURBO doj will fit i have put a 25 spline doj on a 2wd axle, the doj itself was slightly bigger than the bearings inside, but it still worked. but the xt6 axle is rather fat, i wish i has a 2wd legacy axle to play with. that would be nice for all this to work, so i can use a 5spd dual range with the xt6 axle. so rguyver, what do you have for a trans in the brat?

thanx corky!

if its the negative battery cable, it connects to a bracket just in front of the starter, the bellhousing bolt threads in. big fat battery cable black wire on the fuse link box, the balck wire goes to + battery, and the white one is from the alternator.

we have the rx together now. we bass axkwarded the turbo, there was a clamp that was not tight, so i has to dismount the turbo to fix it. we tried all night to get iot started. it has to do with ign timing we found the timing belts were in phase, but 3 teeth off the crank. but that was an easy fix, no belt covers but now i see the haynes book, the firing order is 1324, i was thinking 1342. i had the rotor on the left of the screw, instead of the right, but i changed that. so to keep from rioning the battery, we pt up shop and called it a night so tomorrow we do the timing, nothing else to put back together. but i did pull the fender and replaced the headlight, rep[aired collision damage what i could. so the rx will be pimpin' less a fender!

aunt bea can suck my muffler if i had one:D

i wonder what the deal is with thw 3 coils on the resistor. are they head sensitive, variable resistance, like maf. or just each one is a resistor. i would think that if the middle wan was broken, inly 1 and 4 will work. and f the first one is broken, only 3 and 4, and if the thrid one was broken, only 1 and 2 so basically i am asking what is the purpose of it being exposed to the blown air?

use a pair of pliers or just a screwdriver type camp. a lot of times i have kept the same hoses for swaps. the only brittle hose i saw was an RX, and i dont think it was the oe hose. if you were the one who serviced the hose, then you would know what to expect. so then you dont have to worry about hings, since you know whats up about it

open ports is the funnest. i outran the sheriff with open ports on my sedan

right now i am pondering making a collar to fit an ea82 strut to the xt/legacy knuckle is the bracket in the pictures welded to the strut?

Corky, if we remember the TrashWagon5, we would have observed the ea82 lower control arm, axle, knuckle and strut on the 83 wagon's original crossmember so then now the xt6 lower control arm would thus swap. and with the ea81 strut cap modifcation like it is on the ea82 strut, fit the cap to a 2wd legacy strut. so now that the car already has an ea82 axle, the same length and suspension geometry ans an ea82, the xt6 axles will fit also, when i got the xt6 parts i looked at them, compared them to a 2wd 90 legacy. I notice that the legacy and xt6 have the same style knuckle and strut. but the brake caliper, rotors were different. the legacy has a staked nut like the impreza, but the xt6 had a same sixe nut, but a castle cap and a cotter pin. but the legacy axle and the xt axxle both slide thru the splined rotor, and not pressed in. like it was on the 93 impreza the rear had ea82 style spindles, so they would fit on the ea82 rear trailing ars in the 83 wagon right now the parts will be going on the 87 gl10 wagon, just need some struts I have a 5spd full time from the xt6, as well as my existing 5spd s/r turbo ok, the xt6 axle is way fatter than the legacy axle. so is there any legacy axles that have the same diameter of a 23 splined TURBO axle??(like ina 4wd xt turbo)

you could always tell a soob the way it sounds. all subarus have that warbly sound

Mouth-Off the fuel pump will be located just behind the passenger side rear wheel. there will be a filter at the pump, as well as one under the hood. you can hardwire the fuel pump to a switch on the dash, if you prefer the wiring can be run in thru a grommet behind the drivers seat. all of the fuel lines run ino the body thru this grommet.

its down below, near the floor. remove the lower kickpanel from the dash. and you will see the heater box, its toward the bottom, held on by 2 screws, and a green and red wire to a clip. the coiils are towards the inside of the heater box.

2 jugs for the price of 1 woll swap you a lot of motors. i tend to run a lot of straight water because i never have enough antifreeze. but some kind of 15/75 mix i will have in the summer time because.

looks like you got a nasty short somewhere. follow along and look for melted wires. maybe a short with one of your turn light circuits

hopefully we now have a compression ratio of around 8.0. the pistons look the same as spfi, so i wonder if the carb motor has a longer stroke? and its compression ratio is determmined by the stroke, not the pistons?

going out ans screwing around in a n icy parking lot will teach you a thing ot two. lets you apply what you know

start by draining the oil. then change the filter. then put oil in.

the fatter one with the yellow stripe is a body ground, crounds to a screw on te front of the car. the skinny one goes toa black clip near the coil no positive here, dont short anything!