MilesFox

yes, a cd player can and will be hooked up in a soob, common ground, as is so the 83 trashwagon and the 87 rx, both with pioneer cd. the ground from front and back speaker channels will be together. either left or right- for front and rear the other - speaker wires from the radio will not be connected to anything. i did mine by poking around on the factory clip, using female blade terminals to hook-up. the rx is wired permanently to a subaru stereo harnedd, it will unclip, but fit soob harness only for the dash speakers, the one on the left, remove the cover, pop it out there are screws above the fuse panel for the speaker mount, and one above the speaker the right speaker is above the glovebox. remove the glovebox and the speaker is on a bracket held on by 8mm nuts

yo, i had the idea of using 5 lugs on an ea81 buy mine had the ea82 front end, lower control arm conversion, so an xt swap would would go like that of an ea82 the rear already had ea82 trailing arms, so xt's would swap in, ea81 axles so what doj did you use with your axles, ?

here is some pics of what we did so far http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/rxbuild/rxbuild001.html we blended in the valve reliefs on the pistons, and ported the heads. the top end of the motor is complete, new seals, intake mounted. the carb block will keep its oil pump, it will use the carb pulley. ac will be eliminated. all the seals are new except for the oil pan and front crank. but the belte will be installed with no covers, for ease of service

check to see if the axle nut or the shaft threads are strupped. sometimes the nut will yighten up, but will walk off on bad threads. take the nut off completely and check it out

yes, the HAYNES manual "Subaru 1600 & 1800" 1980-1994 89003 (681)

with a gallon jug and a new bottle of coolant, its economical to pour half of the coolant into the gallon, then fil both with water. now you have 2 gallons for the price. this is good for when you pull motors or radiators

what about if the clutch cable was too loose, causing the clutch to be partially engaged with the clutch pedal pushed in

if you can see a haynes manual, there is a full underbody view. i can scrounge up pics that i have these are ea81, but the design is similar. the crossmember view is looking down from the top, the side that bolts to the car http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/ea81suspension.jpg http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/ea81transmember.JPG This is the main part of the rear suspension in ea82 http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/ea82rearsuspension.jpg strut brace mount http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/strutbrace.jpg rear trailing arm out xt6 (ea82) http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/xt6reartrail.jpg rear diff out of car http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/parts/reardiff.jpg lifted diff on the RX, for bigger wheels http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/87rx/difflift.JPG

QUIET!

is the clutch cable too tight? if its tighte enough, it will engage the clutch fork,

the pressure regulator is after the injector, i do believe. so its that way on mpfi. it just sends back what the injector doesnt use up

napa 1361 silver and gold filters are good. i read somewhere that napa oil is actually valvoline. maybe a valvoline filter comes from the same manufacturer of the napa filter?

all of the light and bezels will swap. some of the plastic anchors for the screws amy be in different spots, but can be popped out. the wiring may be different, at least the plugs. so some splicing may be in order for that.

i agree with gran turismo. it made me a pro at driving my PINTO, never ran it off the road. i can drift a FWD, which is commonly proclaimed as impossible. i consider myself a skilled and controlled driver, as i like to take laps in the field, i keep my turns tight and sideways. this winter with my broken front axles, i have learned a thing or two about RWD, i can pull some TIGHT donuts! but if im too high of a gear, the car will come around inthe rear. so i transition into reverse, keep going, and bust out a reverse 180 to go straight again, all the while keeping the car moving. for some reason it is impossible for my to do a 360 on purpose: if you think of how to steer or brake into a 360, its complicated. but for anyone else, they just stand on the brakes, and 360 away. i dont get it.

actually as it has been stated, water is what gives the cooling properties. all the antifreeze does it give the water a lower freezing temp, or a higher boiling temp i say anything between 25 and 50% green to water, for moderate climates. i tend to not like dex cool, as i think it has more potential to get hot , and the orange will find leks throu small holes that green would not find its way thru. and yes, you can mix orange and greena nd it still will work, but like it was stated, the orange life will be reduced by the amount of green mixed in with, so you can use orange to top off green in emergency type situations. i myself will stick to green. orange seems a waste if you will change it before its extended life period

ask tomrhere, he managed to get the windshield out of the brat. you have to cut the seal with a knife, tom worked his out with some special painters tool, one curved in a way for scraping rollers and such

the smallest inner most shaft should come right out. you can replace rither shaft from any 3spd 2wd and 4wd auto tranny. the torque converters will match too so what im saying is any replacement parts will fit from any 3spd auto

any rate it sounds to me that the fuel demand cant keep up.

good luck yo! subarus are fairly simple as far as cars are concerned. yeah, subaru is an odd breed, but they make sense when its time to get your hands dirty. keep the progress posted, ask if you run into something....

yes, flip up the bottom of tha back seat, and you will se where the fuel lines come in from under the car. check under the car, where the fuel lines run along the back seat floor pan, i have had several that were leaky due to rust.

rguyver put spfi on an na ea81, and then adapted a turbo to the setup. i myself have mockes up such a setup, but nothing tht i put togethe in working order. but to put spfi on an ea81, you will have to modify the spfi distributor to match the gear on the ea81 dist, just flip the gear over, or swap the gear itself. the intake will match the portsm but you will have clearance issues with the egr valve and the distributor. i removedd the egr and made a block off plate. the spfi distributor has 2 mounting flanges, one of which i hgad to cut off... on the ea81 motor, i removed the dostrubutor mounting flange and installed it upside down. the ditributor body was mounted 180 backwards, but with the rotor in proper alignment. the wires were connected to the cap 180 off, to keep the same timing with the rotor itself will this be spfi in an ea81 car, or an ea81 motor into an spfi car?

the air valve that skip mentions on the throttle body introdices air to keep the idle up. its like a false vaccuum leak how it works. i had found it easiest to remove the throttle body from the intoake, from a complete motor. remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake, didconnect 2 vacuum lines, 2 electricle connectors, and the throttle body. but you will want to get the mounting orint ot renstall it should you remove it. i say this if you want to clean that valve, see if it helps, withput removing the power steering pump and such. the MAF (mass airflow sensor) is by the filter housing. you say the car runs without flat spots, so that shpould not be the problem. if you unplug the MAF with te car running, and the idle changes pr car stalls, then you will then know its working properly. chack all the little tunes and hoses around the spfi intake tube, make surte its all hooked up. does your heater vents selector work properly? because if it only blows out the dash, thats because one certain vacuum line is disconnected. let us know if the heater selector works...... it may seem irrelevant, but at least we can elimintate possible causes for effective troubleshooting

try testing the MAF. i have seena car with a bad filament in the MAF, it had flat spots in acceleration, but didnt stall. you caould try testing the coolant temp sensor for the ecu. its the one with teh plastic clip, not the single blade terminal(temp gauge), on the thermostat housing of the manifold

the little pyosser under the intake make a rule to change it yearly. any hose will last at least that long.

the engine mounts have studs that come thru the crossmember, and there is a 14mm nut for each side, just behind the exhaust pipes. if you drop the pipes first, they will be easier to get, the mouns will stay with the motor when it comes out. jack up the tranny to raise the motor enough that the mounts come out of there holes. then the motor slides forward. i strongly recommend removing the clutch fan furst, the n radiator. remove the clutch fan with a 10mm wrench and a 7/8 wrench(to hold the fan shaft still)