MilesFox

those green timing clips are what you are looking for. the test clips are under the hood for SPFI, under the dash for turbo

take a look here for some tips.. http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/service.htm i recommend removing the motor, so you can service the timing belts and such if it needs it. seems the guy you bought it from knows his soobs, so he should know when the timing belts were last done will the rx pressure plate bolt up to the tranny? the spline for the xt 5spd is the same as the RX clutch disc. i would think the rx pressure plate will bolt up to the xt6 flywheel, but i cant tell u fo sure

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/partsguide001.html

you can use the red type grease, labeled for foreign and domestic cars, wheel bearing grease the axle bearings in the boots use a molybendim disulfide, moly grease

yes. straight from haynes i use my method, or a impact you dont want them TOO tight i use a bar type torque wrench for heads, never failed, i use the proper torque sequence you can "feel" torque if you are handy with tools at least if all the bolts are even torque i am just telling you what has worked for me.......just some different methods for u to try, do whatever you feel most comfortable with doing

check yer pm the haynes book says 51-55 ft lbs for ea82, 36-39 ft lbs hey maroon, the specs i gave you were for the BELLHOUSING, i read my book wrong with the pm tighten by hand, then 1/4 turn, in a star pattern will do ya i like to use the pressure plate bolt to secure the box end of a 10 or 12mm wrench to the flywheel, and use the open end to butt against the bellhousing stud, to secure the flywheel.

dont pass up on a soob over minor things or what features it has. my point is any soob is better than no soob. touring wagons are rare, and i f i got one myself, i would get one with the mind of putting the trans that i want in int. but i like to getmy hands dirty, too.

if this is for an 8a81 with an ea82 motor........ you can relocate the battery on the ea81 body to the other side. use ea82 cables. connect the alt to that post. then on the other side, use athe other battery. yhe stock positive cable will plug into the fuse link panel. use the body cround on the negative terminal. the battery will charge thru that But 2 batteries will draw more from the alt, i had voltage spikes with mine. so an isolator or bigger alt. what i liked about mine is the battery on the right was for cranking the motor, and the one on the left supplied the car, charged thru the car. over there would be ideal for a marine deep cell bayyery

make sure the steering wheel is straight wnen shifting in and out of 4wd. you may have to back up or pull forwart do release any bind in the drivelind. find some loose sand or gravel to rollaround on to felease the lever the owners manual will state that the steering wheel needs to be straigh.. nothing is broken...............

so if you leave the wire on the fuel pump, and replae the alternator, that will at least keep your battery from draining, and you can drive the car till you get the original fuel problem solved.

i dont know about gen1, but gen 2 and ea82 have it on the firewall on the passenger side

the white wire from the alternator is live with the battery at all times. You will want to disconnect the NEGATIVE battery any time you service live electrical. the fried fuse link probably burnt up when you got sparks off the white wire the white wire is what voltage from the alt goes to the battery. but its inly producing voltage when the alternator is spinning, and the coils are activated by the little clip on the back of the alt. the wires on the back of the alt should be live with the keys on. so with the fuel pump home made wire, the car still runs? what you need is a digital multimeter(or analog) to test current draw with the car off what you will do is pull the positive battery cable, set the meter for mA ,an put the prongs from the meter in-line with te battery and the cable this will tell you if there is current being drawn off the battery with the car off. if you have electrical problems you plan to fix, a multimeter is what you will need to be effective at electrical trouble shooting

cool. I will be posting more about the swap meet. jim said he will go, tom, so if you could come, that would be nice. but its planned for spring, summer, so there will be time to get it around. we still need to agree on a final date, yet. anyone who would plan on coming, please post what parts you may bring, so we can have a good idea what will be circulating around. i will make some changes to the forum for the Swap Meet itself

brian, the page on http://www.milesfox.usmb.net needs to be updated to the current. i will let you know when i make changes to the current index page

try http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox that will take u to the index page on my site, from there, you can get to whats up already

ok, now that u know the fuel pump works on its own, now we need to see why it doesnt come on with the key with the green clips unplugged, the fuel pump should come on for a second after u turn the key. listen for the fuel pump..... the fuel pump is kicked on by the rotation of the distributor, urs has the mechanical type check all the connections around the distributor. do you get spark?, all of the yellow wires should be on the negative coil terminal. the black or black with a red connector should be on the positive coil terminal so since your pump DID cycle with the green clips, then we can rule out the relay or the pump itself. as long as the distributor is turning, it sends a signal to the ecu to keep the fuel pump on. any farther into this, we might have to refer to a schematic from the haynes manual.

which links are not showing? the top ones should work, pointing to the files. but i need to get whats onmy server in order.... i will check it out. anymore problems, just post them in the news and updates forum, and i will get them working one by one

ok, i have made another change. I used the HTML code from the top frame of my subaru site on the top of the Alliance Board. so that way it links to "My Subarus", "Subaru Service" and Parts 3's", Picture Gallert, and Links. the links will open in a new browser window for reference when reading or posting to the alliance board. the new header also has links to the USMB, usmb.net, and subarubrat.net, the links open in a new window

subaru motor s love higher rpms, such as cruising at 3500 rpm, take it to 5400 between shifts. you dont want to lug the motor below 2500 rpms. 3500 roms is ideal for whatever gear you are in if the shifting feels sticky as you mentioned, with the clutch pedal that you mention,,,,the clutch pedal might need tightened up so tighten the nut on the fork end of the clutch cable a few turns, that should fix your cluth pedal probelm. with 92k on the odo, a new clutch is somethig you should consider down the road. but dont worry, working on a soob is rather simple once you get your hands dirty

i will bw making changes to the General Subau Discussion, per ShawnW's suggestion. he gave some good ideas that i will be using. junkie, what you said, not so much to be "darker" side of usmb, but a "more fun" side. I will be making the soob discussion more trashwagon and Miles fox oriented that way it wont take away from the USMB, but rather be another corner to hang out and have fun with soobs in discussion. so that way the more Serious and Informative info can stay with the USMB

the whole core support that holds the radiator and headlights is what GD is referring to on ea82's you can remove the bumper bt taking out the bolts on the inner framerail under the hood the headlights are hels in by 10mm nuts from behind you may have to tweak all that metal to straighten it out. i would say remove the radiator also, then test fit the headlights after each tweak, and when it looks right, put it all back together if everything looks straight, but the lights dont shine right, there is an adjustment screw under the light if you loosen it, it will point the lights up. but dont take the screw out completely!

right now registration is not required to post. and those of you who used to post on the old message board, your ezboard log-in should work but it would be nice for people to register if they plan to post there often

cool, junkie! i was actually going to ask you to send me the smiley version of the fox smiley. cool hope no one has a problem with a new board...... i figured it would be good for those who want to post their "smoking related" and "misadventures" just wondering what the turn-out would be. i hope it benbefits the USMB in that manner theUSMB is many different locak cummunities within one LARGE community i figured it would be nice for some to have thier own little corner of the overall community to hang out in I am open for ideas and suggestions!!!

if the .zip files contain sub folders and such, will the gallery conver those folders to albums within?

Subaru Alliance Message Board I made a message board to support my website, and also for planning of the upcoming Subaru Alliance Swap Meet planned for late spring early summer the "off topic and hangin' out" section is open for any discussion, Smoking Permitted:D anyway, i put this here so that we can hollar at eachother and have discussion on subjects that would not be suitable for the USMB i hope that some of you find this board useful, and those of us with a common interest can share our ideas, and to have a community of those local to my region of the country...