MilesFox

here you go. i changed it from JPEG to jpg with psp 8 http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/Kings_of_the_hill.jpg i would have posted atatchment, but its too big

i discussed this with tom, as he suggested late spring early summer. TROGDOR will want to come, now that his ride is better, couldnt make it last year due to a need of work soob you know youalready have the "superficial permission" for the pit in st joe. just get it set in stone and the carbola is a good place for a meet. lets have a swap meet the first half of the day, for people going back home. and go baja'n later for those who stay the night, and camp out in the pit should you get final permission, suppose we should give a heads up to the Sheriff, so they dont come uninvited, for the wrong reasons. But if they do show, we know they dont stand a chance!! there should be more interest for the 2nd annual meet this time

anyway, my post is better than no one responding to begin with. we can battle over how articulate to be on the matter, but that is beside the point we all appreciate your knowledge, skip, as i have learned a thing or two myself. if i get the timing wrong the first time, a 180 flip of the dist will usually do it. its all about keeping track of how many times you turn the crank during the whole procedure. and i know of how the pics alone in the hynes book can throw off the procedure-if you dont read the text thoroughly but a lot of times no one will get it right on the forst time...unless they do timing belts all day long every day. but doing the work yourself is the best teacher, and is widely recommended across the board

ok skip. i learned something.. but if you folloe my procedure step by step, tou will be in the right orientation for the dist asfter the timing belts are aligned, driver side cam up, then the next turn till you bring the ign marks to view, the #1 cyl will be at TDC i was not wrong in my procedure. but i learned the 3 marks centered the pistons in their stroke as i can do timing belts and they fire up on the first try..

I used the torque sticks at ivy thech. the idea is the stick will twist and absorb the hammering effect of the impact, therefore limitong the amount of torque being trensferred before the twisting acts as a shock absorber for the impact. there was a color code, and you looked up the year and lug pattern, make, model, it told u which color to use i have used the bar type torque wrenches onmy head gaskets. i did roberts spfi, the trashwagons ea81, and both ea82's, and my turbo without reliability issues. (both my ea82's withstood a mild overheat with new gaskets installed)

what is up with soobs blowing rods lately? roberts just running today broke a rod thru the block, intake gasket failure myoss feece's RX is knocking bad all of a sudden(carb block project now) and to top it off, the 4wd conversion sedan lost its entire custom dual exhaust clean off the motor but my car runs fine! but it has a bent wheel, broken axle..

if part of the belt cover is missing, the marks will line up with the seam of the cam case cover(valve cover) one notch will be up on the driver side, and the passenger side will be down line the 3 marks to bring 1 cyl to tdc. put on driver side belt turn crank 360 deg, so cam turns 180, pointing down line up the passenger cam to up, and put on belt rotate crank 360 degrees so cam turns 180 to point down. now the driver side cam will be up turn till you get the ignition timing marks, set distributor http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/timingbelt.htm

nice selection. good diversity

how about a stroker ea71, with fat case heads. using ea81 crank or rods? or an ea81 with spfi postons(or whatever qmans has for 9.5 compression) and use ea81t heads, and make a diesel the ea7 ans 81 motors have studded heads....

noah, jim os interested in the car, give him a hollar

ok, i get it now i was under the assumption being my 87 turbo has them in the "kick panel" (under the steering column) and the 88 spfi has them under the hood but no matter where thay are at, plug them in to set the timing

maybe it has to do with the number of teeth on the dostributor gear ohc vs in block cam

take the clutch fan out first..

well, between the two flywheels, the crank orientation looks to be the same but the marks are off depending on the location of the timing window, even though the flywheel to crank orientation is the same.....

plug them in for spfi and turbo. the old models have them in the kick panel, and 88 and up have them under the hood plugging them in prevents the dist from advancing when setting the timing initially. the electronical sense of disconnecting the vac advance on a carm

if u decide to let it go, i have a spare motor, and tranny. . one of us here might want it for a good price... i would like to see the pics...

subaru parts quick reference guide-genuine parts numbers listings http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/partsguide/partsguide001.html check this out for parts nubers for 85 and up the listings are: 2door and MPV (BRAT) ea82 xt you will have to scroll thru the pages to find what u need click on the thumbnail to see the whole page you belts will depend on your AC setup. it he alternator inboard or aoutboard? this will determin what water pump tou have, too

you dont have a bent suspension, do you?

use a 10mm line wrench. i have also cut off the brake line so i can slip a box-end wrench over the nut, but i would have to replae that section of brake line you can unbolt the hill holder to move it around and get better access. get on good with some vice grips. but you mat have to remove the whole thing and set it up in a vise, to get the bad line off inder the hood along the framerails and firewall, you will see where the steel line from the wheels will couple into the braking system. if you did have to cut a line, you can replace just the inner line from the coupling to the hill holder/master cylinder also if you cut the line, the nit will turn easier, brcause it was seized to the line, and uncut will be hard to turn

May i suggest using satin black? i personally like a satin black grille. but Krylon satin black is the perfect colot fro the balck door pillars, faded mirrors Satin black is also the right color for plastic headlight bezels and grilles on ea81's may i also suggest staying away from 99c paint, as it will oxidize and fade. at least use a clear coat with the cheap stuff i have found Krylon white gloss to be real good for 87 white subaru there are lso polymer blend paints designed specifically for trim and bunper molding

The 84 does not have timing beltsn and are generally troublt free compared to ea82 timing belted motors they are less likely to crack a head it has a 4spd dual range transmission. it is common to swap in a leter model 5spd 4wd for better off roadability, with some modification Main thing to look for is the axles, see if the boots are torn or axles make noise. but dont turn down a deal over axles(although it makes goos haggling grounds) if the car itself is deemed solid and well-kept. it would be worth it to invest in axle to ensure a trouble free ride. but the axle thing is expected with any subaru. plus should you chose to replace or modify parts, subarus are widely interchangeable with the right combinaton of parts

I found it th eparts guide that the JF2 on the VIN designates MPV (muilti purpse vehicle) so it do think that the 4s designation iw wrong and it should be 4w, which i could register as an MPV in indiana.,

the xt6 uses a lighter flywheel and a stronger pressure plate. but that and ea82 fits the same i will be using an ea82 flyeheel and pressure plate with my xt6 transmission

if the starter has an internal short, it will draw mpre amps and put out less power.

82 and earlier will have externally regulated alternators. try that for parts. the externally regulated alternators will have a metal tab for a wire off the back