MilesFox

10w 30 oil, the capacity is a spot over 4 qts if you account for the volume of the oil filter. Filter is WIX 51361, or napa 1361 and 21361.

95-99 legacy 93-04 impreza, 98-02 forester. The front will fit form 90 legacy and probably 3rd gen, and same with 05 and up impreza. The rear strut is totally different in 2000 and up lagacy, and 05 and up impreza. The rear struts in a 90-94 legacy is the same, but the top hat has different stud spacing.

The pistons deterine the compression ratio. The turbo has dished pistons. The turbo and non turbo blocks are identical, except that mpfi blocks have the crancase breather and the baffle plate.

it would probably be easiest to just swap the whole hub/strut/axle assembly over the toeh other car to roll it out, and then swap it back to the other car

you can drive the axles in from behind by beating ont he doj end. put a block of wood in between. you can separate teh outer end of the axle by drifting it off of the shaft. you might be able to insert a pipe and a long bolt with washers to hod the rig together. you can roll the car with the front axles not connected to the trans, just let them ride on the parking brake cable (you can tow like this too)

The car is still worth more complete to sell as a fixer vs scrap. No rust and not wrecked gives it some value regardless of the engine. Sell it to someone that has parts laying around.

If you are only replacing 2, mount them diagonally form eachother. As long as one front and one rear tire are the same size, the 4wd won't know the difference. Explain to your time man that it is a part time 4wd system with no center differential.

I would use jb weld putty type to back the hole. I wouldn'y use silicone if it were an oil passage. JB will hold up to exhaust temps

Make sure the shop is familiar with Subaru, since the sensor is held on by one bolt and is under the alternator and any monkey with 2 wrenches can replace it. The shop sounds like they assume it's behind timing chains and belts like other vehicles. It can be accessed easily by removing the alternator. It is not necessary to remove any timing belt covers or anything else. This is a job you can do yourself with 10m and 12mm tools

It flashes when detecting a misfire. how are the plug wires? use NGK only.

Suspect the engine coolant temp sensor, the one with the brown plug behind the intake. Usually causes a warm start issue, but also tells the idle air control valve what to do. Perhaps the idle air control valve has failed. This is the component on top of the thermostat housing with the runner hose to the intke

Phase 2 SOHC timing belt (in car) 2002 Legacy EJ251

Did you remove the brake booster line from the car side? there is a check valve in the line; make sure it is not installed backward. I take it this problem didn't occur before resealing the engine.

I hae used the brake boost line and other vac lines, depending on engine. You want to add it liberally, holding the idle up to not stall the engine, and then once enough had been administered, let the engine choke out and stall. Save a little to fill up i the IACV hose and the PCV hose to let it soak. The product works best when the engine is all the way warmed up, and can sit and soak for at least 15 minutes to 30 minutes. Adding it too fast, not having the engine warm, or running it too soon just blows it out the tail pipe. Deep Creep is the same product in an aerosol can. It comes with a straw that you can tuck into the intake boot right at the throttle body for even distribution. One you have treated the engine and it sits for at least 15 minutes, run the holy bejeezus out of it to blow out the carbon, and run it til the smoke clears up. Use about 1/2 to 2/3rds the can for the engine, and dump the rest in the oil, and change the oil soon. Best applied just before a planned oil change.

engine temp sensor? Do the fans run constantly? perhaps the car thinks its cold when warm, or vice versa, probably confusing the IACV

maybe place a jack under a breker bar? The one time i tried to replace a pinion seal, i was unsuccessful. I went as far as trying to drive the cr so that the pinion nut would rotate gainst the breaker bar against the ground. no luck.

the city dump here in milwaukee has a receptacle to dump off used oil and coolant. But you have to bring it in. You can probably hold it in the old jug until the city has a hazardous waste drop off program, such as for old paint and chemicals. I would think if it is a violation of federal law to dump it on the ground, there would be some sort of federally sponsored(or mandated) means to collect/dispose of it.

is the knuckle on the car still? my methods are if the hub is out, drive the axle through with a hammer and block of wood from the inner end, enough to thread on the castle nut and draw it in more, enough to get the washers on. the torque after finishing will seat the axle fully. Otherwise, install the inner end to the trans, place the knuckle over the axle, and drive the knuckle onto it with a hammer and block of wood, enoygh to thread the axle nut, and then install the ball joint.

If you are making a new carpet, you will want to cut it so you can contour around the trans tunnel. etc. This will be pbvois as when you lay the carped down, it will want to fold or crease in the tight areas. Just cut the crease, overlap, trim the excess, done. You can tape the back side of the seam with carpet tape as this is hw home installed carpet is joined. If you are lever enough, allt he trim pieces and the holes you make for the seat rails will hold it down.

I had once cracked an xt6 knuckle in the same mannet. I then found out that the xt6 ball joint is actually smaller thn one for a legacy, but the same size as some earlier impreza (maybe fwd?) I damaged mine trying to install the ball joint. Since they were out of stock, i got a legacy ball jont with the one xt6 unit they had, and this is how i discovered that they were different.

The vibration can be transmitted through the axle. Either the axle is owrn, or it ould be an inferior aftermarket replacement. Do some searching on this matter. Idle speed can be adjusted by clocking the idle air control valve.

Fill the block by the upper radiator hose, and run the engine til you know the thermostat is open, and add coolant to the radiator. Filling the radiator itself will not get coolant into the block, and the placement of the thermostat at the bottom of the radiator will allow the engine to overheat before the thermostat is open if the block is not filled first. Run the heat as cool heat is a sign of low coolant. It can take a good 15-20 minites to warm the engine and add coolant, burping the air. Take your time with it. IT can be difficult to add coolant with air in the block if you don't add to the upper hose first.

That is the bane of the midwest subaru, most prone to salt, and lack of other soobs for parts. If you are willing to put the work into it, you can keep your subaru alive. To combat midwest rust, you really have to trat the car and inspect it seasonally to keep up with it, and stay out of the salt. I have used wire wheel to clean up the metal and paint on por-15. I cut out and welded patches where there is rust through. There is a lot more structural metal behind what you cannot see. People will argue and say the effort is not worth it, and to go find a rust free car, but any rust free car will start showing its rust after a season or 2 of winter driving in road salts. The trick is keeping the car clean. You can hold the rust at bay and keep it from getting worse. The worst examples i see are cars that live in rural areas with gravel roads where stone chips and debris accumulation promote rust. Take the fenders off and clean the dirt that accumulates behind them, and be sure to clean out around the rear shock mount towers to prevent rot there. Any dirt accumulation harbors moisture and prevents water from draining out. Clear out the drain holes in the door sills. Try to avoid body filler in excess as body filler always rusts out and pops from behind, especially if applied vary thick.

The axle is not reverse thread. It is torqued to some 135-145 torque. good luck

The slotted 15" wheels from legacy turbo sports sedan and 95 legacy outback are desirable. 15" tires are cheaper and these wheels are known to be durable for rally purposes.