MilesFox

I have uploaded all the pics submitted so far. i also took pics with permission i converted all the file names to lower case, and took spaced out. the files with odd numbers i gave a name to each pics are in its own folder according to member have a peek http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox i also have scanned pages from the 85-02 parts guide for xt, 2-door ea81, and ea82's http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/partsguide i still have to re-upload all my old pics after i convert the filenames, and i have 5 megs of new pics i took with the mavica that needs to go up yet. i will be editing my pages with dreamweaver, and will post them here as they go up

well if its closed are you sure you are right on your timing marks. that i think would explain 2 open valves and the compression reading http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/Timing%20Belt.htm

yeah jims wagon had add-on dealer AC, it had the bolt on pulley.

it would be like a harley, dual exhaust POTATO POTATO it will sound like when it runs

http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/subaru/service/Glossary.htm

Ask Jim Wood (86subaru), He will tellya :wave: yup! mmm hmm

the one from my carter/weber was the longest with the throttle being on the othr side. i had to invent a mount for my ea82 hitachi and motor

i parted an 87 for my turbo wagon, it had fat case ea71

allthough xt6 5spd has 3.9, the rx trans has low range wich is ultimately lower gear./ but RX low is still tall enough to drave around on, you just use more gas cause youre ROMPIN' it! myoss feece take the RX to 75 in lo-range on the hiway

yeah no speedo means the front diff is not spinning. so the clutch does not have enough grab to move the car. if it were a broken axle, the speed will go up, car will not go, but if you put it in 4wd, it will go on the rear axle. the 4wd is vacuum operated. make sure there is no loose vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir on the passenger strut tower check to see if the axle boots are ripped. if they are, and dont pop and click, you can rebuild them if you know how to use tools

yeah we fixed it at lumpy cam's. we used the fresh ea81 inner tie rod (we lengthened) from ed and and used the ea81 tie rod end. but we had to ream the knuckle on the ea82 knuckle to fit the ea81 tie rods. i originally had ea82 outer tie rod on the way out. but that was not the problem the problem was my rack was not centered when i did the mod. she is all good to go making the trip back east ("out midwest") so here it is You have to take the rear portion of the ea82 mount (the 2 flanges the lower contol arm bolts thru) cut ott the rear one by grinding the welds and taking the piece off as its stamped on fit that BEHIND the lower control arm mount on the ea81 crossmember. thread a bolt thriu and weld on the mount (it will fit the contour of the crossmember) there will be extra metal on one end, so you can cut that off before you mount it the strut brace rod will fit , but only with the new mount. the ea81 lower control arm will fit in the ea81 mount, but the axle will be too far forward and rub the frame, and hyper extend enough to rip the boots or pop them off. and the strut brace will need modified so make the mount and put on the ea82 control arm, strut rod fits. I used the EA82 struts, knuckle, and brakes, so i did not have to modify the ball joint hole. i made my mod with the ability to use unmodified replacement parts i used a spring compressor to remove thestrut cap I used a EA81 strut cap, with the hole modified to fit the ea82 strut shaft and nut. i drilled a straight hole, but i should have made the half moon shape to keep the struts still while the nut is tightened i used part of the ea81 shaft bushing to lengthen the ea82 strut bushing, and ea82 springs and plastic boot. i cut the ea81 bushings to use the fat part so now i can have an ea82 strut that fits on the ea82 strut tower, and the ea82 control arm to fit the axle i had to lengthen my tie rods because i had a manual rack. The MOD was supposed to use ea82 inner and outer tie rods, to fit on the ea82 POWER rack. i recommend using ea82 struts and tie rod ends. if you use an ea82 strut and knuckle, you will have to drill the holes out for the ea82 tie rod end and the ball joint hole on the new control arm dam, i should do my write-up while i m on a roll ! does any one have pics of crossmembers, control arms, or struts i can use? so now my mods will accept an xt6 lower control arm, and knuckle. i will swap my modified EA81 strut cap to the xt6/impreza/legacy struts i have the idea of using the ea82 swaybar brackets and put them on ea81, they swaybars will bolt to the new lower control arms that way i can take off the ea81 swaybar to make room for dual exhaust

links page is up i pulled all the current urls from the members list and threw in some that i knew so here is a compilation of subaru links you may use it if you want, either link to it, save it on your site, or copy and paste, since its public message board material(links posted by members)

you can go ahead and run straight pipe from the downpipe flange and back. that will open things up. then you can make yout own downpipe, keep the flanges in stock location for interchangeability

try fabbing up a legacy rear disc/drum to an xt6 backing plate.

keep an eye out for my mods page. it will explain ea81 to ea82 swaps, and vice versa same with transmissions too. all my stuff so far is based on what i have done with soobs myself all this knowledge comes from the fact i had spare parts to play with. but round up all my projects, all the parts were from the cars in my stable. just mixed around between them, no spares between projects very frugal with my combinations

mayne they just stuck open. since you got the heads on, try to tap or wiggle them free. spray parts cleaner and penetrating lube on the valve stemsthem. once the engine runs, the oil flow and operation will free them up i have seen them stuck open. tapped them and the freed up, but head were off when i did so did the motor/heads sit for a while? with the intake off?

what if the lower control arm is twisted, or maybe there is some adjustment in the strut brace rod. all of my soobs seem to pull no matter what i do lower control arms look as if they will bend easily in the inside end, i had to straighten one out before from hitting a curb my wagon pulls to the right avter the outer end of the axle came apart and wedged up in the brake caliper

on the glf with te ea82, i used an ea82 power steering lines to adapt the two with the ea81 in the sedan and DL, i used the ea82 water pump, and power steering pump. in order to do like this, i had to make a custom alternator pulley. but an AC-less alternator would have worked, if i had one. the ea82 water pump will match the radiator hose. use the ea82 water pipe off the top of the motor so it fits the ea82 heater hose. use this if you are using the brat motors existing belt system the ea82 water pump, ps pump, and alternator belts will be in line. but it will be slightly offset from the crank pulley, but it will still work. but it may wear the belt prematurely. both of mine got junked when i was away. i never driven them. its a crying shame, because the sedan only needed the rocker nuts torques, and the dl needed the timing set correctly. but they both ran and had the belt system i just described the ea82 ac pump bracket will also swap over, as i had in both of mine

cables from different soobs will all fit physically, although length is an issue between models one from an ea82 turbo SHOULD fit, having very similar throttle dimensions, and the ea81t has similar components of the ea82t any length will work if you can relocate/fab a mount for the cable

you can put the tranny together with the ea81 the same as the 5spd conversion. but you will have to use the ea82 flywheel, and the timing marks are different. but if you leave the distributor alone, that wont matter. dont forget to grind the bellhousing on the motor for the flywheel. use the ea81 flywheel bolts the ea82 carb manifold will bolt up to the ea81 motor. but the egr will be in the way of the distributor. either make a block-off plate for the egr, or do this: mark the distributor position and take it out. take off the distributor mount off and install it upside down so it faces the other way. put the distributor in 180 deg backward, but keep the rotor alignment the same. install your plug wires 180 off on the cap, so they are correct with the rotor that will be the only MAJOR issue or you can just leave the brat carb/intake with the brat motor the pitch bar mount on the ea82 motor will swap to the ea81 ea81 motor mounts will fit in the ea82 car connect the dist wires to the coil like normal(you will have to lengthen the wires, or move the coil to the other side of the car you can leave all the spfi wiring connected to the coil, and leave all the spfi wiring hanging around, just tuck it out of the way the tachometer will still work normally. for oil pressure and water temp, you will have to find the right pin on the spfi harness and tie into that, or simply go with mechanical gauges one of those triple gauge sets from wal-mart will fit nicely on top of the steering column, for example

i have done the ea81 swap into an 86 sedan with a 5spd, and have done it to an spfi sedan with automatic what year is the car, what trans, and is the car the motor is going to carb, or spfi? i believe chef tim has done the swap also

you can use standard 5/5 heater hose for pcv routings

well it depens on cost or how much work you want to do suppose if there is a pair of complete ea82 struts with ea82 control arms, for cheap or already available, i would say its woth the time on a serious projact and also having ea82 front suspensin will give you bigger brakes and suspension travel it will also afford the option of using XT6 suspension on an ea81 body, and with the rx tranny

so what i have on usmb you can use right off? if you have any pics that would be good for the write ups, i would like to use them i can work the pics into my write ups. i can send the updated versions to subaru junkie, so if you link to them off usmb they will automatically update it looks like we are all getting on a roll with our websites. and all that we create will make the usmb.net more valuable! come on now!, we will be the FIRST AND FOREMOST source for subaru information on the net!!! i am going thru the member list and pulling members website links for my links page. since i am doing this, i will share the page if you want to use it. i personally dont care if anyone uses my content in any way they like. as long it works for us all! if anything just let me know what you want to use that i created, so i can keep track.

ok, then the doj swap i mentioned will fit on a 23 spline turbo acle(from 3eat turbos) so then he will have to either shorten a 25spline ea82 turbo axle, or have the ea82 front suspension conversion