MilesFox

the passenger side "vent" speaker can be accessed by removing the inner glove box, and 8mm socket. i used a 4 inch speaker from radio shack, you can fanagle the speaker to mount to the original speaker's bracket. you can fit a 4 inch in the driver side dashboard, although you have to set it in there somewhat sideways, and in a way that the wires dont ground you can hook up a regular type stereo to the factory harness. i put a pioneer cd in my 83 wagon. you have to use ONE ground from the front speakers, and ONE ground from the rear speakers, both connected to a COMMON ground on the stereo harness. the 2 extra ground wires from the radio will be taped off. there are 5 connecters, you have to find the right one for the ground, it took me a couple tries to get the fade right. i used the rca out for the amp and crossover, and the tweeters are connected parallel to the front speakers. and all the high-output wire from the back of the stereo is connected to the factory wiring, factory speakers are replaced with better ones. radio shack has quality speakers for a good price, optimus brand(a generic version of pioneer) although the radio shacks around here are phasing out optimus and selling pioneer brand this connection was also used in the 87 rx, ask Myoss Feece i got the stereo to fit flush with the consle, although i had to modify the internal radio mounts, and the hole for the screw on the side of the console is offset about 1/2 inch so the radio doesnt interfere with the heater core box

yes, this is where most of your cutting will be. you might have to cut the other side, or whack a good dent there for clearance

stuck in the woods...

hey, josh, you got yellad at or the same things. there is lots of postings about gear ratios, try the searchg function and see what you can find! welcome to the board

this is what a "BARU" is http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5/P7050005.JPG the whole car http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5/P7050004.JPG

why are you yelling?

it is calling for snow around here. sleeting a little, but its gonna come down some 5 inches thru the morning. good thing i got gas!

i just uploaded some pics of wcss5 photography by ed rachner i will make an index page linking each pic to the year and make and owner(as i collect the info) if you see your ride, post the filename(s) with your year and make, and a few details http://www.warpthree.com/milesfox/WCSS5 if anyone has pics from the show i will host them with these

i am posting from what i know and my experiences more than from what i read off the board.

if you get vols and it quits, sounds lile the relay is working. when you turn the key to run position, it kicks the pump on for a few seconds. after that, the fuel pump comes on when sensing a signal from the rotating distributor. so you will want to check out where the signal from the dist goes, and what it goes to to kick the fuel pump on

i wouls think it s fiberglass. the shield on the spare tire crossmember fell apart, and there was a big pad of fiberglass insulation there, the woven sheet type. i dont think soob would have use asbestos for exhaist shrouding. asbestos wouold be daek in color. if its white or looks like it used to be white, its fiberglass.

the aftermarket coil has a greater spark potential than stock coil. but you are only going to take advantage of its benefits if you widen your spark plug gap , and use fatter ign wires. the accel coil is about 30 bucks, slightly more for the chrome model. they both fit and connect the same ad stock. you can gap your plugs to .050. accel makes a "make your own length" 8mm spiral core wire. (my buddy had a set and it was enough to make 2 sets of wire, and almost enough for a 3rd. having the extra gap in the plug will help burn more completely. having the accal coil will give enough juice to spark the gap. the 8mm wire will let the plug draw the spark from the coil

the most important part is removing the axle without boogering up the htreads/ you want the whole strut assembly to pull away enough for the axle to slide off the tranny end(after the pin is removed) then you want to pound the axle thru the knuckle till it pops out. thread teh castle nut on BACKWARD intil its flush with the axle stub. use a 3 poind hammer and a block of wood to start pounsing it thru. it has to pound thru 2 bearings, pouns it thru so far and remove the nut. then use a pipe, or hold the round end of a ball-peene hammer against the axle, pound on it with the fat hammer. to reinstall the axle, but it on the tranny end first, then slip it thru by hand what you can, and tap around the knuckle to persuade the axle thru. once the axle is thru enough, you can put on the rotor and then the nut, and use the nut to draw it thru. you will have to use the nut with no washers to catch the first thread, draw it thru, then remove the nut, put on the washers, then draw it all the way thru and torque it down people will tell of several ways to pop the ball jount, take off the lower control arm, etc. but the main objective it to be able to pull the strut assembly away from the car enough to slide the axle off the tranny, and enough to let it dangle and pop thru without the car being in its way

it will be inside the fender on the other side of the battery(at least that's where it is on an ea81t, 85 mpfi is about the same system as an ea81t)

you will have to cut into the framerail by the crossmember bount on the driver side, cut about 1/2 inch into the framerail, the structural part of the crossmember mount will be exposed, but not cut into the passenger side may bneed a little for the middle of the cam cover. the timing belts covers will interfere wit hthe front portion of the frame, you can modify the plastic covers, or leave them off altogether i run all my ea82 without tinong belt covers, for serviceability. have never had issues running exposed belts. although ti leave the portion behind the t-belt idler pulley on the bottom driver side

the charp "horn button" switch is perfect for the application. since it doesnt carry a lot of amperage. the heavier "push button starter switch" is more than what is needed for a soob, bulkier to mount, too

so what did you use for a manual boost controller? tell us quickly, so we can make one for the RX before it snows!!!!!

work has begun taking the front suspension from an 81 GLF to put into the 78 BRAT. its all disconnected except for one crossmember bolt, the nut is stripped. will have to come back with a sawzall or grinder. the brat is missing the fenders and a driver side window. we have its ea71 motor, are going to use the heads from an 87 hatch, bigger valves. we also have a hitachi carb from an ea82 to use. right now we have the 4spd s/r trans, but if we get a dual range, or any 5spd, we have the bellhousing from an ea81 motor to use. if we do get a 4spd dual range, we will be playing with the idea of using an ea82 motor. once i get my xt6/legacy struts, the rear disc off my wagon will be available i have a set of ea82 lower control arms, one from the xt6, and one from an 88 wagon, if they are the same length and opposite sides, i will consider an ea82 front end conversion, i can get the strut assy, just need axles(more readily available) so the end result will be an ea82 front suspension(like trashwagon5) an ea71 motor and trans(or possibly an ea82 and dual range, have motor, need trans) and rear disc brakes. it will also have an ea81 bumper, and maybe enders if we can get it to look right. our main priority is getting the suspension on so we can wheel it around and make room for other projects i will post my progress on the use of the ea81 front crossmember

i dont know the specifics, but the victor reinz gaskets i get from NAPA are graphite, as well as intake and exhaust gaskets, too the felpro gaskets for my turbo were also graphite

THE DOOK (like as in "the sh*t" its brown) TURBLOW(or TURDBO) SUBAJET RXKILLR TRASHBACK (if it were my vehicle!)

i would recommend no sealant, as i have done al my heads without, your gaskets should be graphite faced, which allows for expansion of the head. if anything, use the sealant on the block side of the gasket

what year, as the crome -83 bumpers are different thanthe 83-84(and up brat) bumpers although i think one mounting ststem(crome) can be retrofitted to the latter (had the idea to do, but lost half my parts before it was done)

it will rattle the roof rack, a desired affect, considering the roof rack isnt secured very well! (i had to hold it down for 20 miles because a screw fell out on the way to WCSS5

any of the screws on the distributor body itself are the same screws for the rotor

my experience says push-button starter. but no ones experience says it has to be done a certain way, but rather givce more options to fix the situation let it be the one who owns the car to decide which method they want to take