MilesFox

the card in the window has landed us a few soobs. also we have recruits that keep an eye out for them a lot of times people who are driving them are driving them just because its a car, and could care less that its a subaru. maybe it would be wise to find cheap cars and fix them up, and just trade them even up for soobs.

if the nut turns, but wants to hang up, work it back and forth, back on a thread or two, off a 3 threads, on 2, off 3, will help take the rust off the thread. usually the nut will turn so far befare it catches all the rust and begins to take the stud with it. if the studs DO come out, get new ones. to install them, thread 2 nuts on the END, lock them together. then use the nut farthest on the end with a wrench to turn the stud in. then use 2 wrenches to unlock the nuts,and then proceed to install the gasket and pipe. the thread locker will prevent the stud from coming out the next time, and the anti-seize will let the nut come off before it wants to take the stud with it. but sometimes a rusty stud will take the aluinum thread wit it, tearing it out as it goes. if you see aluminum on the stud if it comes out, re-tap it with 7/16 and use 7/16 stud, or helicoil it like qman said

if recall i have seen studs opposite, at least on zanny dook's wagon the stud is on the other hole, and the pipe has a notch ground in the flange to fit around the stud. the pipe is right, as it fits on my wagon it must be an odd stud, or it must be a same-side head as the other head, its the only one i have seen like that, it was that way when we got it the turbo cross-pipe has the studs opposite that of a regular pipe

the thread is m10 1.25 the shank being 10mm wide, and 1.25 threads per mm you can also tap out the holes wit a starter tap and a bottoming tap 7/16 14 thread. 7/17 dia. and 14 threads per inch TomRhere invented that trick

well right now its stuck in the carbola taking up space! yeah, he left the brat there just like he left me in idaho in both cases, parts were set aside never to be heard from again..

he would manage to get the brat with no front suspension stuck! check this out. althogh the train took out the first couch, this one is still laying off to the side of the tracks. lets go for a daytime shot with your camera when you get back..

HA, he said "get a kick" hear that Subu luvr!!!! here is another classic ro-neece moment

mean this one?

and the time josh deeboed driver on my soob baja'n, ran into some corn and busted my mirror and marker lites, and then got stuck. we got out, i drove and got stuck. i made josh pull me out with his legacy, and my car got its passive aggressive revenge by josh's legacy radiator leaking after that. and he crunched the front of the RX on your sedan. that sedan has a thing for the front of white soobs! good thing mine's BLUE!

Miles Fox in the Hizzou! watch out, i tend to be flammable around here:burnout:

well, it couldnt hurt his car anymore than power sliding into the hitch end of a boat trailer. check out the latest from corky: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8004 and: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7969 hey, i can burn you a cd of DAFT PUNK: HOMEWORK while i am here

forgetting to take the 7/8" off the crank pulley when lining up the distributor

there is a wire that runs from the top frame to the radiator, that grounds the thermoswitch

i avg. aboput 30 mpg on my way out west

are you still using the spfi block? what about o-ringed head gaskets, around the cylinders themselves?

ok, i stand corrected on that one. Now i know to get it right next time. and those dashes with the near white lighting, the other lighting on the instrument bezel is still orange

yes, the other holes can be used. i would recommend installing studs, with thread locker on the head end, and anti-seize on the nut end

license and insurance. i can always transfer the plate. its all a contemplation anyway about the car. how is that bad, but if i want to beat a wrx, its no problem? my car is all legal and my insurance current. if i didnt sell my car in idaho, i would still be in jail there to this day. and driving a 3-door aound is no different than driving my current trashwagon. its not like i dont deserve to build another subaru. so corky, step off my tail, especially if what you have to say has nothing to do with the topic. if you want to have words of such with me, there is PM. i think we can get along. its fun to match wits, but we should leave the personal stuff out. this gets old on the board already. i dont have to prove anything. the board is showing its :moon: over me too much and too often

warp3, what you are describing is a part time 4wd 5spd dual range, the RX has an open center diff. this not all aapply to the full-time units. but the diff lock on the full-time acts like a part time when its in 4wd

i was referring to the pert time units as 5spd Dual Range, and the RX trans as the Full-Time Dual Range

would you have a copy of the crossmember mod diagram for the conversion i mentioned. didnt reagan make an adapter to use ea82 struts for an xt-6 knuckle. i am interested in making one myself. I'll take a peek on xt6.net. tom told me about it, over the xt6 that we both parted

yeah, but a stock RX aint all that. my turbo wagon gave it a good run for before the head crapped out. my piont is i try these things. i can say that i have fixed a turbo motr and ported the heads because i did. the cars in the junkyard would make fun project. there is a 3-door with a turbo, and a spd wagon right beside it, and i have a carload of xt6 suspension. yeah, i know, i can hear it coming, but i DO have the 5spd Full Time 3.9 , AND a turbo single range hmm, full time in the rs, dual range in my wagon, turbo 5spd in the junkyard wagon. sounds like fun. we dont have a justy. we dont have a rally cross, but we still have subarus, and we take them out for laps on the field. my buddy has an rx. this potential project would be an interesting rival for the rx my point some more: RX: turbo Project: turbo, custom intake, custom exhaust(and i'm talkin a cherry bomb) RX: Full Time Dual Range 3.7 gear Project: Full Time %spd 3.9 gear RX:Rear Anus Lift and 16 inch chevy 6-lug 205/55 Project: XT6 5-lug suspension and 215/60 15 inch impreza wheels xt6 swaybars it seems to be an even match, for vs. an RX

hey, i didnt know the last detail, but oh-well. I had never seen an 86 RX, that's all. lets see some more pics. i am a fan of 85 an d 86, i like them better for an ea82. i had an 86 wagon, and an 86 sedan. the wagon became parts, the sedan was a 4wd auto, and a 5spd dual range from the wagon. i like the interiors better, and especially the steering wheel! i think it would be neat to do an RX conversion to a GL, with all the stuff that would make it an RX

I like that XT, with the paint and all. i recognize it from RGuyvers msn group. i got the lower control arm mod and ea82 axle on my wagon like on his hatch

if you can find a 170 that would be good for driving it hard. you dont want it too cool, but you want the room for error, so to spaek. my buddy has a 160 in the rx, it is a hair below the middle of the temp ga, but it will still warm up to OT when being driven hard enough., but it is less prone to get hot, also. try an xt spider intake, it will let you use ej motor stuff. if you can get an xt-6 suspension, you can use impreza/legact wheels, knuckle, strut, and axle on the front, and impreza/legac wheels and brake rotor on back, with ea 82 rear suspension and axles but to use that, you will need either a full time turbo automatic, an rx trans, or a pushbutton 4wd 5spd from a turbo, for the spline count on the impreza axles get a fatter exhaust down pipe past the turbo