MilesFox

try checking the electric choke pull off. i have a hitachi with everytthing taken off, and it would start then die. i disconnected the choke vacuum and now it runs right.

yeah, that spot is perfect for a pop can, 20 oz coffee, or maybe even a 32 oz fountain pop the dual range trans has a lower final gear than the pushbutton, so it would turn bigger tires easier. you can also use the fatter turbo axles from an automatic that matches the same spline you can put on 14 inch pufeot wheels, for bigger tires. or you can mod the hub for 6 lug toyota wheels, or swap in an xt6 suspension to fit subaru 5 lug 13-17 inch wheels it would be easier to put all that into an already turbo car, but if you can find a turbo motor complete with wiring harness, its worth a shot. if you change the whole wiring harness to the whole turbo car, you can use the instrument cluster with the tach an oil p. gauge the spfi motor has somewhere around 95 hp, and the turbo has 115 stock, but a good 125 hp can be had with simple boost mods

check to see of the top strut-to-capp bolt is tight. my car was floppy and that one escaped me for a while... sometimes the rubber in the top of the strut cap will tear out. check there too

the RX full time dual range 5spd has a taller gear, dont know what it is off hand but its taller than 4wd part time 5spds. somewhere there isd a chart, browse the search for "ratio"

i am thankful for the cobbled together axle i built from jim's leftovers, the carb i got from alleyboy, and the fact that my car has been reliable nonetheless, with a missing axle and floppy carb before, and making it to tom's to get my XT6 parts, then to my mom's, and here to my sisters, and the almost full tank of gas in my ride! and i will soon give thanks to the sticky greenness:headbang: :bday:

of your pics, the 2nd one is most dramatic. eyesore austin in river. and of course, TrashWagon5(the last pic in the album) my sister's comp wont let me access the photo gallery, so my latter choices are from what i remember seeing

myoss feeces motor puled oil because the pcv HOSES were clogged like a bad coronary artery. he replaced them with standard 5/8 hose. do the 5/8 hose, if you can bend it right, might have to make your own custom lengths so they dont kink:-)

change the tranny crossmember. you will need the 5spd's driveshaft and rear diff. axles will fit the same. you DO NOT have to modify the bellhousing to fit the flywheel because it is TURBO you may have to widen the trans tunnel. also use a "Miles Fox's Kit", about 3 bucks in washers, ask General disorder. it was my suggestion, he an austin have got it to work. a 4 spd will go in with no mods, but you will need its driveshaft, crossmember, and rear diff. the ea82 trans crossmember will fit the same.

yeah, spfi would be th best choice, having the highest compression ratio. i missed that about the ea82t, no it wont work on dual prts. the only thing that fits on dual ports is the turbo intake and the xt spider intake(mpfi)

m10 1.25 mm htread for the trans stud, same as exhaust and most every other 14mm bolt. dont know the knock sensor, it may be tha same as the egr to head fittings

with the xt6 parts i am getting, it comes with the xt's crossmember. i am going to cut thet up to modify the ea81 crossmember, and do the ea82 lower control arm conversion like i did the trashwagon. i will put the xt6 stuff on my gl-10 turbo spfi carb wagon, and use the leftovers for the brat build. after its all said and done, i have a spare ea82 motor to throw in there and get it to fit. but all i have is the 4spd 4x4 tranny for the brat, but the 4wd s/r is coming out of the wagon, i can try to fit that in the brat also. who out there has 5spds in the gen 1 brat. pay attention 78turbo brat, i will let you know how the 5 spd wants to go in! if the ea81 does indeed fit(with framerail mods) i know who has a complete turbo motor with ecu and all the goodies!!!:wave: if he will come off it..............

head gaskets for subarus have graphite facing that allows for different expansion rates between the block and the head. although the head and block are aluminum, the head is going to heat up faster than the block, until it evens out. ps: how much were the head gaskets from auto zone. i recall one account where a head gasket from advance auto was like 40 bucks, but were like 27 at napa.

pull the governor shaft and inspect it for the gear being stripped, and clean it out while its out for good measure. usually trans that dont shift right have a clogged governor

i had an ea81 carter/weber intake on my spfi block in my turbo wagon. , but i had to eliminate the egr for it to fit. with that setup, i had to mahe a dent in the ps reservoir for this little solenoid... hitachis fit, too. as far as being the right width, and the ports match, it will fit perfectly if the intake is from an old school ea71, it will be too narrow. but if it goes to an ea81, then for sure it will fit on an ea82

could be the rear seal, also, you wont see it, look around where the the motor meets the trans from underneath. is the oil pan oily? after a good many miles, the pil pan bolts will become loose, as the gasket shrinks over time. go around and tighten those up, too

ok, i assumed ea82. while ea82 pumps are t-belt driven, ea81 pumps drive from the cam , from the inside

keep in mind about the coolant temp sensor, as it will have some input while its warm

the intake i installed either has it stuck open(intake has been in storage for a while) or its just missing. it worked the other day in 50 degree weather, but no that its 30 degrees i have no good heat. i put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator in front of the clutch fan, and that seemed to help. i'll know if my car is getting too warm if the heat gets too hot.

here you go, this album has pics of the trashwagon at wcss5 http://usmb.net/gallery/albup27 in the main album, ther eis a shot of the 2-door, http://usmb.net/gallery/albun92/subaru2door and a few of trashwagon6. of these, pick which ones would be best! have all of them on the same page!

i believe the turbo ea81 crossmember is different because of the exhaust syste. you may be able to modify the crossmember to fit around the ea81t motor, but if you had to mount the motor highet like 78turbobrat did, you wouldn thave to go as high the main difference between ea81t and ea82t is the ea81 is pushrods, and ea82 is ohc(timing belts) i think the ea82 is 30 inches, and an ea81 body has 32 inches at its narrowest 31 inches is a safe assumption for measurement. if you take all the plastic yiming belt covers off the ea82 motor, that will take a good 1 1/2 inches off the widest parts the other part that would be too wide is where the dist mounts. the dist has 2 bolts holding it on, so you can cut off the side mount and that will help give you room, too. that is probably where you *MIGHT* have to cut the framerail. i would thik an ea82(t) would fit in the 78 brat the same as an ea82 would fit in a LIFTED ea81 body. on my 83 trashwagon5, i had a 6 inch lift when i installed the ea82, i had to cut the frameraim mostly on the driver side to clear the cam cover, and cut 1/2 inch off the t-belt covers, leaving the side of the cam pulley exposed. but i took the lift out, and everything fits just right(proving that no framerail mods need done to fit ea82 in ea81 UNLIFTED, like if tomrhere's gen2 brat, also. but my last 3 ea82 motors i have run with open timing belts, never had reliability issues, and it makes servicing t-belts, oil pumps WAY easier, like a 4 hour job taking 20 minutes easier

well, i am about to put xt6 5 lugs adn suspension parts, full time 5spd in my already carbbed spfi turbo wagon. just this last weekend, we put an xt rear trailing arm/disc brake/swaybar in a 5spd wagon, and i have a 2wd axle with the 27spline turbo doj in my ride with the xt knuckle...................

you can just get the "mickey mouse o'ring" and be just fine. you can get a whole kit, which comes with the mickey mouse, a round o-ring, and a shaft seal. bumps themselves dont generally go bad, bieng a trichoidial design. very simple and not complex

look for a screw on the side. if its not there, give it a good yank, may have to grab onto it with pliers. dont take the screw out of the top, because that holds the distributor shaft together!

that idea will work as long as the ea82 clutch disc will fit in between. (see 5spd conversion) the motor and trans combo will be the same ide as a 5spd conversion in an ea81, but you're in an ea82 body and if the car was not carbbed to begin with, you WILL have to swap in a carb fuel pump. the inlet side will have a fatter hose, but if you clamp it down with a good hose calmp, it will hold. otherwise you will need a reducer. you will need to wire your pump to a manual switch, or to the +terminal on the coil, because the optical dist is not there to to send the signal to the ecu to kick on the fuel pump. the wire with the strip will be + on the pump. i run a wire from under the hood to a switch, and run from the switch down to under the center console. if you take the seat up, and the center console out, you can run the wire under the carpet just behind the parking brake lever, and it will come out under the seat. you can then feed your wire thru the brake or fuel line grommet to the pump. the other wire is cround, i rin it up thru the grommet and ground it to the seat belt bolt the flywheel idea will work, i have done it. it wont get off center, and the bolts will hold it torqued to the crank. but if you keep the ea81 flywheel, make certain that the ea82 clutch disc fits in the ea81 flywheel and pressure plate, and make sure the ea82 throwout bearing works with the ea81 pressure plate. or see if an ea81 throwout will fit on the ea82 trans

i guess you have to upload it to subaru junkie, and then he puts it up. once i am done with my website, i am going to upload it as one big zip file. bit i got LOTS of megs!