MilesFox

you might have to take the positive battery cable off to get the bolt out all the way. there is a small wire that clips to the back of the starter. the ground wire connects to a metal piece thet fits thrut he bolt, dont forget to put the bolt thru it when it goes back together. the top of the starter fits between the trans and the pitch bar bracket. take that side out and towards the side to get it out. once out, you will notice a stud. when putting the starter in, put the stud end on first, and rotate the starter body towards the trans to get the top part between the trans and the bracket. put the ground cable on the bolt, and the n put the bolt thru. then put on the positive cable and its boot.

we bled the x pattern the first time, but the parking brake was on(but no air in the front). we bled the BACK again, no difference. but we disconnected the brake lines to swap, and the brake lines from the body dripped out into a bucket. i didnt think of bleeding the master cylinder at the time, but that sounds like it. what it needs is a bench bleed. Jim, ask autozone about a brake bleeder kit. it comes with some clear plastic tubing and i think a plastic jar. not only will that bleed it properly, but it will flush out all that 180,000 mile old brpwn brake fluid! that is something that can be done in the garage(witht he jar, of course) if i were to come down again, but thhe weather being cold. it wont make a mess if you're careful. the neighbor guy might know how to bleed brakes if he can help you if i dont come anytime soon.

i used a gm thermostat, but i had to drill a hole for the air bubble passage. i have seen generic k-maty thermos that dont have a hole either. if you use eftermarket, drill a hole. if you wanted to drain the motor completely, there are drain plugs on the bottom of the heads. 14mm bolts. the passenger one can be gotten easy, but the driver side has the frame in the way, unless you get a box end in there. all you nave to do is turn the petcock and drain a little, or pull the top hose. i drained the radiator itself to change the intake, and the water level is JUST below the ports

yeah, the coil and tach will work the same. all you have to do is connect the ea81 dist to the coil, leave everything else there. the digi dash will still work for tach, but temp and oil pressure connect THRU the mpfi intake harness, so you will have to find which pin on the connector is for the temp/oil. the digi dash has no iol press. ga. to begin with, may as well go mechanical ga. the motor mounts will fit the same. the ea82 flywheel has bigger holes, but he flywheel will still center on the crank, and the bolt pattern is the same. you will have to grind away the bottom of the ngine bellhousing to clear the flywheel teeth, about 1/4 inch n each side on the bottom the turbo's throttle cable will work, but you will have to mkae a throttle cable bracket. i ised an old throttle bracket and twisted and bent it up to fit on the pitch bar bracket bolts, or on the bellhousing thru-bolt. i have had a carter/weber from an ea81, and now have a hitach i in my 87 turbo wagon with spfi block and carburetor the ea82 water pump will fit on the ea81, will let you use the radiator hose water pipe. also, ise the ea82 top water pipe the one that goes to the heater hose. the ea82 ps pump will fit also, but you may need to modify the bracketry to fot past the distributor. i am saying all this will physically fit, but you will have to be creative for it to WORK. i have done it once to an 88 dl sedan, so i know what i say, buy i had to mess with it to GET it to work, it wont just work out of the box, so to speak but the ea82 water pump will have the pulley spaced different. you can get it to line up to the crank, but the alternator wii need to come forward, or find an alt with the 2 groove non-ac pulley. all of the ea81 motor together how it was will work. see of you can find the power steering pump from an ea81T as it will be like an ea82. the radiator hose may need modification to fit on the lower side

subaHAULic:drunk:

so are you going to compile this and do a write up? i have a secret web project myself..........................

what i meant is the tire spinning. you have to hit the brake. the launch i mention is after you let off the gas. i pilled down a 200 ft stretch of raod with my 205/55 16's on the trashwagon. spun to the top of 3rd on snow), let off the gas for the stop sign, damn near ran the stop sign when the car launed as the wheels slowed down and hooked up, hooking up at an rotating speed to the equivalent of the top of 2nd gear. might as well pull up to a stop sign, and do a clutch drop and see if i can stop before i pass it.

yup, it worked for both these guys, per my suggestion! lets see it work a 3rd time. then list about 3 bucks in washers, and call it "Miles Fox's Kit" i should go get a patent right now

its a silicone hose, so replace it with silicone. its a good idea to replace the water hose off the turbo, as they can blow out. i put jim's turbo motor together, got the whole car with blown headgaskets, never seenit run. diring the build i suggested replacing the hose, but we didnt have the right size. and then it blew out on the maiden voyage. replace those hoses in one shot as preventative maintenance!

mine is spelled with a "k"

if the single range is from a NA, it will work with the axles. if its from a turbo, you will need turbo axles, wont fit on an ea81. but the doj(at least from mine) will fit ona 2wd axle, so the doj will most likely fit an ea81 axle(if the doj is same diameter) i am under the impression that the single range trans used the same driveshaft as dual range, and rx trans. so the driveshaft mod would apply. the turbo 5spd is 3.7 final gear. i would assume the na is also, but i know that 3.7 is turbo specific oh, i meant turbo axles as in ea82, 27(or is it 29) splines (the bigger one) the auto in the ea81t has the same spline as normal trannies, axles will fit a 5spd d/r. wed 5spd, auto, and 4wd auto, and i believe non turbo 5spd single range. do you have a 5spd single range? once i get my xt6 trans, i will; come off my 5spd, with the DOJ to them. but i need my driveshaft. we can deal as long as we an figue a way to get it there, or get you here!

i put a carb on my throw-together just bought a car with no motor. it backfired didnt run right. by the 3rd carb, i turned the disty and it ran like it was supposd to. advance the timing by turning the dist slightly to the RIGHT, se if it idles up a little. drive it around. tweak the timing until it seems to run the bedt. just keep a 10mm socket handy. if it were a vacuum leak, it would want to idle faster. see if the idle changes when you hit the brake pedal. that will help a little in determining a vacuum problem. make sure al the connections around the air cleaner are connected, there is one underneath in the back of the air cleaner that goes doen to the framerail under the master cylinder. there are 2 on the front, one can come off easily if the aorbox is moved for any reason. carb toiming should be 8deg BTDC, test timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and the hose plugged.

if i did that i would get arrested!

maybe you could fit a few rides on each month, each month representing a make, year, or category of soobs. put the hatch patrol on one month, ea81's on anothe rmonth, ea82s on another month. a month for RX, a month for ea81/turbos, brat, for another, and of course July for the TrashWagon(s)! ave a little body of text either with each pic or for the whole pic, describing the type of soobs featured for that month and put odd misc soob pics for holidays, etc.

oh, i thought he said 92 loyale touring wagon. anyway, my tire suggestions are for 13 inch rims (take notes)

i dont think the xt came as carb. they were turbo, non-turbo mpfi, and xt6. carbs lasted to mid 87. torbo has been around for ea82 since 85, and the 85-86 mpfi and turbo are pretty much based off the 83-84 ea81 turbo. all 87 and up have the optical dist but the 85/86 xt turbo has the same type dist, but with a knock control unit. i'm sure the mpfi xt would have the same dist, but no knock unit. i have seen an 86 spfi, i dont recall the dist, but all other spfi has the optical type.

i bet the guy in the ford felt like a jack. but i'm sure he appreciated it! i ran pizza on fort wayne when it snowed all at once on new years 99. i pulled a taurus out of a driveway, a van off the side of the road, and a camaro out of an alley, after the chevy truck gave up. the dude crapped when i rolled up ina little compact wagon. then he crapped again when i actually pulled him out. then he literally crapped himself when he saw the 50 foot streak of tranny fluid from my automatic. he ordered a pizza with a credit card and gave me a 30 dollar tip. make it a point to have yout towstraps, guys! its supposed to snow monday. i scored a 2wd axle with a bad boot for working on jim's soobs. all i need is a boot, and i will swap my doj to it and have some fun:santa:

and if you dont return it, its paid for. you can have the option to keep the tool, for what you put down for the deposit. we got a band clamp tool for 10 bucks, and decided to keep it. after asking the auto-zone dude first, of course!

taller, skinnier tires will work the best in snow. try a 175/70-75 (auto 3.7 gear) or 185/70 or 75 series(if its a 5spd dual range 3.9 gear) 60's will be wider in proportion than 70 series. wider tires will want to slide around more on snow your choice of tread, but skinny for snow/mud my 2 cents

no, the xt dist will not work, being probably mpfi, having an optical disty. an 85 or 86 carb disty will work on anything(i got one on an spfi motor with a carb down in a turbo car, running off the turbo's coil, mpfi harness still there) i got an 86 dist im my ea82 powered 83 wagon. so if you cant find an 87, go with 85-86. and the internals of the 85/86 carb is the same as a lot of ea81 dists also

the calender at the carbola is still on the month before i hit the road.......its time for a new one! i didnt even know about a calender till now. count me in(the calendar!) =^x^= milesfox@yahoo.com

yo, i got some pics rounded up for you. what is your emailso i can email you from my email account? email me milesfox@yahoo.com, and i will reply with the pics. but do so ASAP, while i am here at this computer thru sunday. if not, it may have to wait, because the public library computer wont let users access cdrom, or upload(but i can haggle the librarian, and she will let me, but she has to reset the computer for administrator access, so that means their comp is open to me! so how soon do you need them put me down for july!(i'll tell yout the story email)

just swapped rear trailing arms and disc brakes fom a turbo xt to a 4wd 5spd wagon today. had to part the xt, pull the parts from the wagon. put the xt parts in the wagon, and put the wagon parts on the xt(to have wheels to put on a trailer to the junk yard) the axles were stuck on a little, but at least they came apart how i expeted them to, with my hammer technique. sure, i could have swapped only the brakes, but now the wagon has a nice fat swaybar in back! when i took the trailing arms out, i popped the axle pin off first, but the axle came away from the diff last. when going back together, i would mount the shock bolt first. that would give me enough play to put the axle to the diff, install pin. then the rest goes together. when i put my turbo motor together, i used a can of anti seize that was older than i was. a little pasty, but it works the same!

when squeezing the hydraulic tensioner, go slowly so you dont blow it out. put it in a vise and give it a crank till it binds a little, then let it bleed down. half turn, wait a second, half turn, wait a second, you get the idea. i waspassing a semi in my ea82 powered 83 wagon, and it up and quit running. i pulled over at a hog farm to take advantage of the flood light and have a peek. i rin my timing belts exposed, no plastic covers. i could see that both ebelts were there. it confused me, so i cranked the starter from under the hood. i could see the crank turning, but not the belts. it had stripped off likr 6 teeth, some were half peeled away, and the others i could pik off with my finger. abut 45 minutes later, i was on my way with a spare belt in the trunk(i had a spare motor i just picked up, too. not exactly the best scenario to be in going 100 mile home out of state on a suspended liense, in the same county i was arrested for driving while suspended on the way there the day before........ oh, the 93 impreza here in town is a 1.8 ej motor. 2wd 5spd and as for thread locker on tensioner pulleys, u have had a pulley walk out enough to snap the bolt, because it was put togethe 1000 miles ago with anti seize. this happened 15 miles into a 2300 mile raod trip. then the axle broke in wisconsin. i still made it after my gas tank failed, but i got arrested on the way back but i got my license now.....

it would be easier to replace the diff itself. but sometimes the axles will seize to the stubs. a good couple of whacks with a hammer will get the doj off the diff. if you cant get ti off that way, pull the rear trailing arms, diff and axles all at once(or the whole suspension, but watch the fuel line, it must be pinched off, unless you want a full tank on the floor) by having the whole thing out, it makes it easier to swing a 3 lb hammer. if you can get one with the one end bevelled, that would be better. rotate the axle every few whacks. if you do get it off, put a good amount of anti-seize on the stubs. moisture gets in thru the insm and the splines rust up/ i would recommend getting the axles off the diff and/or hubs, and put anti-seize on them, for the next time you have to service the diff/axles