MilesFox

there is a wire that goes to the sending unit on the oil pump. the sending unit still does its thing, but it works a dummy lite(or check engine) if you knew the voltage and resistance signals, i'm sure you can get an electronic ga. to work. or you can go the mechanical route..

so an ea82 flywheel has to be modified to fit an ej. i have drilled out an ea81 flywheel to fit an ea82, so would the same modification work with the ej? if the hole pattern is tha same, you could drill out the ea82 holes to be bigger for the ej flywheel bolts. so who knows?

i got that expanding foam on my fingernail, and it took like 2 weeks to wear off

Yo! being there is nothing really in the midwest, i got a small swap meet together last year. 4 people showed up, one from michigan, 3 from ohio. not too good of a turnout, but not bad. so far i keep regular meeting with 2 that showed, in fact, i am at his house right now. we have our local in-town guys, and now we got a new guy from within an hour away. the next time we have a meet, i bet more people show. there is a fairly good number of us now, and a good number close enough to meet, but we just now know about eachother within the last year. but if you want to get something going, more power to you. you got in mind what i have got on a fair start here in indiana! i would like to have another meet next year, and if so it will be the second meet, then would be an ANNUAL meet, 2 years in a row. Hopefully we can be the biggest subaru groub between the hatch patrol and paul moosens. if you get something going on by summer, who knows, i may show up!. i made the trip out west so i can for sure make a trip half the distance! more power to the Midwest!!!!!!

he said funk:D

that is the generation that falls into the "gen 2" category. its the first design for that particular body on the wagon, but its the second generatoon of body for the brat, but its the same platform as the 82 wagon. does that sound confusing to YOU the later hatches, non 4wd, has an ea71 motor, but its really a 2nd generation ea71, more like an ea81. but the heads are ea71. but the other parts are ea81. ea82s arent so mixed and mathed

here is what you should do: replace the belt and water pump. once the belt is installed, do a compression check. if the compression is good, nothing to worry. but getting the motor hot MAY cause the headgasket to be more prone to fail if it ever gets hot again. if the motor never got too hot, it will be ok. the belt breaking as soon as it did most likely saved your motor. if it were an ea82, you would have for sure cooked your heads on my ea82, i got it hot once, off the scale in fact. but there was no damage. but it had fresh head gaskets before it got hot. i ha e found that a new head gasket job will hold up rather well in a mild overheat, but an older gasket will want to let go before a new one would. in my opinion, fix the belt and keep going. just consider a head gasket job later down the road, but it most likely wont be necessary now

my ea81t had the hitachi compressor, the one on the inside. it should bolt up in all the right places, i have put an ea81 into a dl sedan, with all the ac stuff(panasonic) whatever system you get, be sure to get everything that goes with it all at once hitachis may be a better choice, because it doesnt have to bolt to the intake manifold, and thea81 manifold doesnt have the hole for the bolt

it might foam a little. if its just a little, i dont think it would hurt anything....

i have done both ea81 and ea81, hitachi and carter/weber. if you remove the whole intake, you can remove the vacuum manifold from the intake!

sometimes thepiston will disengage from the parking brake mechanism. if it keeps turning and doesnt go in, tap on it with a hammer until it goes in while turning. sometimes they do that. the last 2 that i did did that.

first, make sure you know what compressor system you have. there is tha panasonic, and 2 versions of the hitachi. the main thing to look for is the tensioner pulley seized up. the long hexagonal bolt is different between hitachi and panasonic, the panasonic having a longer shank. the bolt to the far left that holds the bracket to the block has a spacer, it only has to be loosened, not removed. but make sure you get the spacer if you're parting out come back with more info on your setup. is the compressor round(panasonic) or square(hitachi). if it's hitachi, is the compressor on the inside of the motor, or the outside(with alt. in the middle) this will help to determine which bolts or pulley you need also, find out which water pump you have. remove the fan. the long water pump has the pulley slip over the studs. the short water pump has the pulley bolted to the pump

i have my engine assembled without the plastic belt covers. i can do timing belts by ONLY removing the alt/ps belt the oil pump can be gotten from the front of the car, ither underneath or under the hood. with my set-up, it will only take 5-10 minutes, plus another 5or 10 minutes to reinstall the belts but if the same belts are used, i can have them off and back on without messing wioth the tensioner pulleys. i will inbolt the cam sprocket to get the belt off, and either put it back on that way, or put the sprocket back on, and slip the belt over it i personally prefer to leave the belt covers off, for ease of service. have not had any issues with running cover-less, either being on a road trip, daily driving, or baja'n(i do leave the piece of plastic behind the t-belt idler pulley on the bottom right)

stupidru: a 1 inch would mostly be enough. but the good thing about 1 inc of lift, all you would have to lift is the trans crossmember and the swaybar mounts. the front crossmember and struts can be left alone, if your goal is to fit a 5spd in there. the washers alone can get you a good inch, as long as your bolts are long enough. if some of the bolts are too short, go find some that go to a MT crossmember, and use them where they may be needed for lift! matt: even though 4wd is not hooked up, you can still engage 4wd either by the linkage off the trans(from under the car) or from the side of the trans from under the hood. all the way in is 2wd, all the way out is 4wd lo

if you have everything you need, and dont have to figure it out as you go(knowing what to do beforehand) it shouldnt take long to do. doing the suspension mods would be best with the crossmember out of the car, before it goes in!

is the brake on the xt6 like that of an ea82, or a impreza

its tall enough to go 75 mph in lo, about a 500 rpm difference than hi, on the RX

there used to be a post about "gen3" a in reference to ea82's so thats where i'm coming from

:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

yeah, but he says no spark at the COIL there is a crank angle sensor near the front crank, it reads from the timing belt. do you suppose you have a bad timing belt< and i its going out, was not turning the water pump properly, i cant remember if the watr pump drives on the tooth side or the flat side of the belt. suppost the water pump seized up, caising the motor to get warm, and then the belt break from froction on the pulley? did you check for compression?

that methos worked for me off the side of the road,and at the junk yard. i never had trouble doing it that way.

a better bet would be to find a good turbo with a bad automatic 4x4, and put your 5 spd in it! easier to do than a conversion, definately if the turbo car is nicer than your current ride

Quite the opposite. if the center diff were locked, there would be no binding at the center diff, because there at least 1 each of the same size wheel between both axles. now having a smaller tire on one side of the same axle, the bind is going to be in the rear diff. there would be no bind in an open diff. so if there is bind on the lsd, then that means its trying to engage the whole time, either the tires would scrub, ir the lsd would slip. it would be slipping all the time when going normally, rather than catching when it needs to like when a wheel breaks traction i cant tell you wether or not that would wear it out or damage it, but i CAN tell youthat the led mechanism is engaging the WHOLE TIME rather than when needed.

try ea71 ea81, ea82 for gen1, 2, 3, respectively

i have done this to an 83 wagon, ea82 parts on the ea81 crossmember. but you will need to have the mount off the ea82 crossmember. if you look, you will see how its stamped to the crossmember, grint away at the seams and chisel it off, and the contour of it will match on the ea81 crossmember. i believe it would be possible to carry over the ea82 swaybar, and that will eliminate the ea81 swaybar, and allow better room for dual exhaust. i used the whole ea82 strut. if using ea82 control arms, and ea81 struts, you will have to ream the hole out for the balljoint styd. but you can modify the ea81 strut cap to fit on the ea82 strut, (mine i used the ea82 spring) you will have to swap the INNER tie rod out with an ea82. mine was a manual rack, and it would not fit. but if you had a power rack, i would think the swap would work. and if it s a tirbop crossmember with the rack still there, it wil be late model enough for the swapt to work with the tierod. if it doesnt fit, as in my case, you can lengthen the inner tie-rod itself. use the outer tie rod end specific to the strut/knuckle you use. if you use ea81 tie rod ends onan ea82 strut/knuckle, you will have to ream the holes out on th eknuckle now with all that done, yo would use the ea82 axles. all this will gain a little suspension trave,. and the track will be a tad wider, and i believe it will set your caster forward also(good for the stink-bug posture as its called) all this done to mine, i am going to install xt6 struts and axle/ 5lug hubs on the ea81 body