MilesFox

bumpity bumpity:banana: :wave:

the shifter itself fits into a ball joint, sometimes they pop out. when mine pops out, i center it up, and guve agood WHACK! with the palm of my hand to pop it back in. but i dont have a center console....... i dont know of any replacement parts, other than the junkyard i have installed a 5spd in my automatic sedan, the shifter was all worn out. i used some 3/8 hose for the bushings, worked rather well.

it looks like the 87 hatch motor i had, it was the "fat case" as its called. we have a motor out of a 78 brat that has the water cross-pipe that bolts to the block under the intake. the fat case looked like an ea81. so it looks like you have the late model hatch motor with the old school ea71 bellhousing. maybe that's an ea81!(but it would say on th block) what kind of intake/carb setup does it have. i just notices yesterday that the old ea71 is too narrow for ea81 and ea82 intakes, but the hatch motor had an ea81 intake i remembered using a water pump off the hatch motor for my ea81, before i knwe of the fat case difference from the older style. before then, i assumed that all ea71 and ea81 parts interchanged. but if that is a fat case ea71, with the old ea71 bellhousing, then that proves to me that i can use my ea81 with the old ea71 bellhousing in the 78 brat!

could the oil return hose have puked?

the best deal that i know of is napa. head gaskets are about 26 bucks a piece. do the valve seals if the heads are cooked. but first, get a compression gauge and take a compression reading. this will tell a lot about what is going on before you take the heads off. and if you know what to liik for after the heads are off, you can see why/where the gaskets failed. if some spots look cleaner than others on the head,deck, pistons, thst means you were burning coolant in that spot, the coolant burning will act like "steam cleaning" causing the carbon to come off, and appear cleaner than the rest

all of the ea81(1800cc ohv[pushrods]) are of the same construction(from subaru, that i know of) although there are several aftermarket versions designed for aircraft applications. but the exception from subaru is the ea81t(turbo heads) the valve cover is shaped somewhat differently on the corner, the injectors fit in bosses on the head, and the turbo side is tapped for an oil and coolant lines. then there is the ea71(1600) from the 70's thru 84 era. from 85 and later hatch backs, the ea71 has a fatter case to accept ea81 parts(waiter pump, the case is wider to fit the ea81 intake). the heads still have the same dimensions, but it has the bigger valves and intake ports of the ea81. the set i had, i noticed it has a smaller combustion chamber than ea81 heads the compression ratio on ea81 engines is 8.5:1. the ea81 turbo is 7.7:1. i am not sure of the compression of the ea71, but i think its 9:1 or 9.5:1. you can get a 9:5:1 compression by using the pistons from an ea71 in an ea81(ask qman for the specifics) the ea82 (1800cc, ohc [timing belts]) has pretty much the same design on carb and spfi(single port) the only reql difference is the fittings for emissions. the turbo and mpfi(xt models) use a dual port design, they are of the same construction, but the turbo has the oil and coolant line fittings. the carb models have 8.5:1, the spfi has 9.5:1 the turbos have 7.7:1 compression ratios. there may be differences between years though, and there are a few different cam profiles. and there is the chart mentioned for the turbo heads. i think there was may be different designs for japanese models, but i dont know. this is the extent i know of, some of it could stand to be corrected, but i hope it helps. other board members may know more specifically about what i have mentioned

you have to wedge the screwdriver between the bumper and the metal front trim under the light. if you decide to remove the headlight(for other reasons) there are 4 10mm nuts on studs, need deep socket. the one by the battery is fairly easy, but if you remove the battery first. but the other side is behind the ac dryer(if so equipped) its kind of a pain to remove them, though stick a long screwdriver in there. i had to replace a broken headlight from collision damage. the glass part was removed from the light frame, i tightened the screw all the way before installing it. but the little plastic thing was broke, and turned with the screw. so i have a piece of radiator hose behind the light for now....(and its not my car):wave: but the motro comes out to do the clutch and pil pump seal(again), so i will take advantage of the opportunity to tweak the light some more

that ticking sound you describe sounds like pinging. if you kept driving it after that, for sure you have popped a head gasket. usually a bad head gasket will still run, but one account that i know of, being driven like you just described, it dropped a valve seat and wedged a valve open. it probably popped a gasket a while ago, and just now noticed it by gettin hot(loss of coolant). from right now, the only way to know is to take the heads off. if yer lucky, they arent cracked. but for sure you popped a head gasket. the only heads i have been known to be cracked/too bad to use are ones that have dropped a valve seat i'm sorry to hear the bad news. but dont give up on the soobs. a head gasket is something you can do yourself, sine you are alredy familiar with your soob. but use a torque wrench when going back together. i wish you good luck!

jims 88 spfi 4wd 5spd d/r wagon acts like a carb with a bad accelerator pump. when you rev it up, it makes somewhat of a "popping" noise, and has no torque. just like a vacuum leak, but it idles normally. once you get enough momentum, it drives fine, as long as you ease into the gas. if you put her down at rpm, it will stumble. i read once on the board about a solenoid that will stick open, something to do with air introduction. it has almost 200,000 miles. we have that little $100 for a spare, if that may be it. but could it be something on the throttle body? the amount of "vacuum leak" seems more than what that little component will allow. and also, could it be the brake booster. you can tell it works when the motor runs, and when you step on the brake while idling, it will make popping noise or want to stall out.

you can get the wheels to spin up, thru another gear or two, but watch out, as soon as you let off the gas, the tires will "hook up" and all that rotating mass will launch you unexpectedly

what is the deal with the floor mounted parking brake? it would be cool to take the ratcheting mechanism out, so you can stomp it on turns. that way, the left foot isnt bored:D

i had trouble replacing the ball joint on my ride, it wouldnt come out of the knuckle. so i said F*' it and replaced the whole knuckle.

there is a wire that goes to the sending unit on the oil pump. the sending unit still does its thing, but it works a dummy lite(or check engine) if you knew the voltage and resistance signals, i'm sure you can get an electronic ga. to work. or you can go the mechanical route..

so an ea82 flywheel has to be modified to fit an ej. i have drilled out an ea81 flywheel to fit an ea82, so would the same modification work with the ej? if the hole pattern is tha same, you could drill out the ea82 holes to be bigger for the ej flywheel bolts. so who knows?

i got that expanding foam on my fingernail, and it took like 2 weeks to wear off

Yo! being there is nothing really in the midwest, i got a small swap meet together last year. 4 people showed up, one from michigan, 3 from ohio. not too good of a turnout, but not bad. so far i keep regular meeting with 2 that showed, in fact, i am at his house right now. we have our local in-town guys, and now we got a new guy from within an hour away. the next time we have a meet, i bet more people show. there is a fairly good number of us now, and a good number close enough to meet, but we just now know about eachother within the last year. but if you want to get something going, more power to you. you got in mind what i have got on a fair start here in indiana! i would like to have another meet next year, and if so it will be the second meet, then would be an ANNUAL meet, 2 years in a row. Hopefully we can be the biggest subaru groub between the hatch patrol and paul moosens. if you get something going on by summer, who knows, i may show up!. i made the trip out west so i can for sure make a trip half the distance! more power to the Midwest!!!!!!

he said funk:D

that is the generation that falls into the "gen 2" category. its the first design for that particular body on the wagon, but its the second generatoon of body for the brat, but its the same platform as the 82 wagon. does that sound confusing to YOU the later hatches, non 4wd, has an ea71 motor, but its really a 2nd generation ea71, more like an ea81. but the heads are ea71. but the other parts are ea81. ea82s arent so mixed and mathed

here is what you should do: replace the belt and water pump. once the belt is installed, do a compression check. if the compression is good, nothing to worry. but getting the motor hot MAY cause the headgasket to be more prone to fail if it ever gets hot again. if the motor never got too hot, it will be ok. the belt breaking as soon as it did most likely saved your motor. if it were an ea82, you would have for sure cooked your heads on my ea82, i got it hot once, off the scale in fact. but there was no damage. but it had fresh head gaskets before it got hot. i ha e found that a new head gasket job will hold up rather well in a mild overheat, but an older gasket will want to let go before a new one would. in my opinion, fix the belt and keep going. just consider a head gasket job later down the road, but it most likely wont be necessary now

my ea81t had the hitachi compressor, the one on the inside. it should bolt up in all the right places, i have put an ea81 into a dl sedan, with all the ac stuff(panasonic) whatever system you get, be sure to get everything that goes with it all at once hitachis may be a better choice, because it doesnt have to bolt to the intake manifold, and thea81 manifold doesnt have the hole for the bolt

it might foam a little. if its just a little, i dont think it would hurt anything....

i have done both ea81 and ea81, hitachi and carter/weber. if you remove the whole intake, you can remove the vacuum manifold from the intake!

sometimes thepiston will disengage from the parking brake mechanism. if it keeps turning and doesnt go in, tap on it with a hammer until it goes in while turning. sometimes they do that. the last 2 that i did did that.

first, make sure you know what compressor system you have. there is tha panasonic, and 2 versions of the hitachi. the main thing to look for is the tensioner pulley seized up. the long hexagonal bolt is different between hitachi and panasonic, the panasonic having a longer shank. the bolt to the far left that holds the bracket to the block has a spacer, it only has to be loosened, not removed. but make sure you get the spacer if you're parting out come back with more info on your setup. is the compressor round(panasonic) or square(hitachi). if it's hitachi, is the compressor on the inside of the motor, or the outside(with alt. in the middle) this will help to determine which bolts or pulley you need also, find out which water pump you have. remove the fan. the long water pump has the pulley slip over the studs. the short water pump has the pulley bolted to the pump

i have my engine assembled without the plastic belt covers. i can do timing belts by ONLY removing the alt/ps belt the oil pump can be gotten from the front of the car, ither underneath or under the hood. with my set-up, it will only take 5-10 minutes, plus another 5or 10 minutes to reinstall the belts but if the same belts are used, i can have them off and back on without messing wioth the tensioner pulleys. i will inbolt the cam sprocket to get the belt off, and either put it back on that way, or put the sprocket back on, and slip the belt over it i personally prefer to leave the belt covers off, for ease of service. have not had any issues with running cover-less, either being on a road trip, daily driving, or baja'n(i do leave the piece of plastic behind the t-belt idler pulley on the bottom right)