MilesFox

stupidru: a 1 inch would mostly be enough. but the good thing about 1 inc of lift, all you would have to lift is the trans crossmember and the swaybar mounts. the front crossmember and struts can be left alone, if your goal is to fit a 5spd in there. the washers alone can get you a good inch, as long as your bolts are long enough. if some of the bolts are too short, go find some that go to a MT crossmember, and use them where they may be needed for lift! matt: even though 4wd is not hooked up, you can still engage 4wd either by the linkage off the trans(from under the car) or from the side of the trans from under the hood. all the way in is 2wd, all the way out is 4wd lo

if you have everything you need, and dont have to figure it out as you go(knowing what to do beforehand) it shouldnt take long to do. doing the suspension mods would be best with the crossmember out of the car, before it goes in!

is the brake on the xt6 like that of an ea82, or a impreza

its tall enough to go 75 mph in lo, about a 500 rpm difference than hi, on the RX

there used to be a post about "gen3" a in reference to ea82's so thats where i'm coming from

:wave: :wave: :wave: :wave: :wave:

yeah, but he says no spark at the COIL there is a crank angle sensor near the front crank, it reads from the timing belt. do you suppose you have a bad timing belt< and i its going out, was not turning the water pump properly, i cant remember if the watr pump drives on the tooth side or the flat side of the belt. suppost the water pump seized up, caising the motor to get warm, and then the belt break from froction on the pulley? did you check for compression?

that methos worked for me off the side of the road,and at the junk yard. i never had trouble doing it that way.

a better bet would be to find a good turbo with a bad automatic 4x4, and put your 5 spd in it! easier to do than a conversion, definately if the turbo car is nicer than your current ride

Quite the opposite. if the center diff were locked, there would be no binding at the center diff, because there at least 1 each of the same size wheel between both axles. now having a smaller tire on one side of the same axle, the bind is going to be in the rear diff. there would be no bind in an open diff. so if there is bind on the lsd, then that means its trying to engage the whole time, either the tires would scrub, ir the lsd would slip. it would be slipping all the time when going normally, rather than catching when it needs to like when a wheel breaks traction i cant tell you wether or not that would wear it out or damage it, but i CAN tell youthat the led mechanism is engaging the WHOLE TIME rather than when needed.

try ea71 ea81, ea82 for gen1, 2, 3, respectively

i have done this to an 83 wagon, ea82 parts on the ea81 crossmember. but you will need to have the mount off the ea82 crossmember. if you look, you will see how its stamped to the crossmember, grint away at the seams and chisel it off, and the contour of it will match on the ea81 crossmember. i believe it would be possible to carry over the ea82 swaybar, and that will eliminate the ea81 swaybar, and allow better room for dual exhaust. i used the whole ea82 strut. if using ea82 control arms, and ea81 struts, you will have to ream the hole out for the balljoint styd. but you can modify the ea81 strut cap to fit on the ea82 strut, (mine i used the ea82 spring) you will have to swap the INNER tie rod out with an ea82. mine was a manual rack, and it would not fit. but if you had a power rack, i would think the swap would work. and if it s a tirbop crossmember with the rack still there, it wil be late model enough for the swapt to work with the tierod. if it doesnt fit, as in my case, you can lengthen the inner tie-rod itself. use the outer tie rod end specific to the strut/knuckle you use. if you use ea81 tie rod ends onan ea82 strut/knuckle, you will have to ream the holes out on th eknuckle now with all that done, yo would use the ea82 axles. all this will gain a little suspension trave,. and the track will be a tad wider, and i believe it will set your caster forward also(good for the stink-bug posture as its called) all this done to mine, i am going to install xt6 struts and axle/ 5lug hubs on the ea81 body

however it goes, keep me posted. maybe you can swap in a different master cylinder to fit around things. (or go newer) i think a good portion of gen 2 parts will fit, like struts and bumpers and such

well it' sounding like the ea81 crossmember fots in a gen 1 body, so if that's true, then the turbo crossmember will fit as well

you can also pop a ball joint by jacking up on the stud that pokes thru, jack it up till it loads the suspension a little, and tap the lower control arm with a hammer. you can thread the nut on backward to protect the thread. you can use a long bar or a 2x4 to push the lower control arm down away from the ball joint. the top of the ball joint fits into the knuckle, clamped in by a 14mm bolt. you can remove that end first if you chose to do so

the RX will do that. the fan wont come on til the car has been on a while

keep an eye on the ATF level, and maybe change the front diff oil ever so often. ither that or spend $$$ to have it fixed, or another auto that is hopefully in good shape. as long as you dont let her run dry. and atf in the diff shouldnt hurt anything, if the leak is slow enough, you can keep it in check. my .02 but maybe you can consider a 5spd swap!

its the ea81's that have 2 filters. all of the fuel injected has the big canister filter up front only, including ea81t

3/16 sounds too big. i have seen pulleys on spfi and carbbed that dont have the hole for such a pin, and the pulley tightens on. the turnbo pulleys i see look lile thay have a balancer, wheras spfi and carb pulleys do not. if you knew what to line it to for the balancer's sake, then a pin would not really be necessary. my .02

so if the crossmember swaps, then i am in luck. because the parts car is an 81 glf. but we will be using the 78's ea71 with late model fat case ea71 heads, and the ea81 bellhousing. if tht motor idea doesnt work, we're out of lick, the glf having an ea82

maybe the fact its from an xt didnt let the mounts line up. bu ti do know the trans mounts are the same, as we put a 2wd auto in place of a bas 4wd auto in a turbo xt

i would say that a cracked head is less likely to run than just a bad head gasket. my turbo cracked a head, and before doing so, it would expell white steam out the exhust, leaking out the exhaust port. do you have any suspicious smoke coming out the tailpipe?

sorry to hijack, i have fitted na ea82 cross pipe on a regular ea81. i believe that the ea81 pipe is pretty much the same, but not as big around tow to add to the question, does it clear the front crossmember?

yeah, i know what you mean. the one from a 2wd hatch was too fat for my ea81t. but i dont know why there are 2 shaft sizes?

I have re-headed motors, 2 of which were deadbeat-non runners. after start-up, the lifters would be rather loud. but after about 10-15 minute of running, the noise went away. the lefters will be dry from either sitting or a re-build. but the times i had prominent lifter noise, it went away. its common for a subaru to have liter noise, its more of an annoyance issue rather than an mechanical issuu. i have heard them sound like a rod knock until they start to quiet down. take her for a run and see if that fixed it!