MilesFox

yer talking about the pin in the pulley? it is exclusive to turbo pulleys from what i have seen. i line it up to the square notch fro the woodruff key. it doesnt have anything to do with timing, except for xt models, which it has a mark on the front. the woodruff key is either in-line with the 3 marks on the flywheel, or 180 deg from the marks. i cant remember, but its one or the other if the pin is absent, it should be no deal. as long as the bolt is torqued properly, as non-turbos dont have the pin that you describe

i'll pass the info to robert, the guy who owns it. he has dealt over the internet before. i'll try to get him to come back to the board

what about the wiring harnesses between any of them?

check the knock sensor. the hayned book describes it as "tap the ngine case with w wrench, and see if the idle changes" be careful of the connector, as i have seen the crack on ea82's

yo i just thought of something. it sounds like a vacuum leak with the hight idle. i would speculate because i remember from my ea81t 5spd had an automatic. there is a small dooker straight behind the intake mounted by the bitch bar bracket. it (WENT) to the automatic, no now it needs plugged off. its real tiny, just plug it off

yo! i couldnt buy an ea81 t in my area. the one i had was gone to hell when i got it. but i would go thru the hassle of puttin one together(again). check to see if the oxygen sensor is working. the california models have 3 wires, and the others have one wire. you can get a generic bosch unit for way cheaper than an oe unit, and clamp the existing wire to the new o2 sensor. get a volt/ohm meter. test the resistance values when cold and hot, and determine it works properly. do the same for other sensors as well. the haynes book has a general reference for volts and resistance for trouble-shooting.

so you got that mutha runnin! i think its the same one that was for service at auburn undercare. i remember the 5spd. yup, the parts are spoken for, this was the butler xt-6. i referred it to tom, after being out bid on ebay for an xt, who took the cheap price. tom and i settle up for the parts both way. i was already looking for xt6 parts for trashwagon for the 5-lug i get the trans and suspension parts. axles and diff, driveshaft. (tom, did you get the trunk open, was there the rim for that donut on the back?) tom gets the motor and clutch parts, ecu, and interior/extereior

it should be good to go. at least you can drive. bleed the brake opposite in back, too. being a cross-diagonal brake system. when working bleeders loose, guve just a little torque to move it. work it back and forthe a few times before doing the bleeding procedure. also when cracking the bleeders, tap on the wrench with another wrench to help "impact it off" , because if you use too much torque all at once, you will twist the bleeder faster than the threads will let go.

on an 87 TURBO, the ecu uses a crank angle sensor. on the 85 and 86, it uses a seperate knock control unit. was there an mpfi non turbo for 85, and 86? and how similar or dissimilar would the ignition system be to turbos of the same year, or the 87 up mpfi system?

i dont think blending it down would be any different than mixing in ATF. ATF(in power steering systems) works similarly to hydraulic systems, so if tractor fluis is thicker........ i dont think it would hurt to try using it in the same manner as using ATF

although the tractor fluid can withstand the pressures, but maybe it wont hold up to high speed, flying off gears and such. what about temp differences between transmissions and hractor hydraulics? maybe a blend of tractor fluid to regular gear oil, and in like the mmo treatment for motor oil?

its possible to bleed the brakes by the line if you have the bleed point higher than the fluid.' dismount the caliper and turn it up on its side, with the banjo bolt on the line to the caliper facing you. crack the line from there. it will get most of the ait out of the caliper. there might be a little air in the line, but the brake will be usable. the broken bleeder can be drilled and tapped out, its not a lost cause. have the person withthe right tools and the right experience get it out. you could also change a caliper, the same amount of work. whatever is most available to you

how well do you know your books? start with making sure things like ignition timing are spot-on, and that all of your sensors are working first. i remember how you said it ran like crap, but now it runs like a scalded dog. sounds like you're making progress. but maybe a few more bugs can be worked out of it. do some research on the basics of automotive workings. too bad there are emissions. they dont have them around here. i know that my car my car with its floppy carb and 35oo idle wouldn to pass.

cool. it might not be the best way, and some would disagree with the method, but i tell you what. I had a drum on a 4x4 83 turbo wagon that wouldnt come off for nothing. i beat the spindle thru(take the axle off, or just one end) thru the bearing, that was the ONLY way to get it off. driving around with the nut off, doing slides and such, and an 80 dollar tool rental from autozone still didnt work. i got it off by beating it with a hammer(use a big hammer, dull heavy blows, not quick sharp blows) if there is enough meat on the spindle before the threads, you can grind or file away the "mushrooming" from the impact. its not hard to replace the entire trailing ar, should you mess it up. would you rather drive your car after replacing the rear trailing arm, or leave it up on jack-stands until you devise a way to get it apart? price around and consider a replacement, before you rack your brain. but if you get it apart, then more power to you!

go ask someone who has expertise in deisel/farm equipment. let me know what they say!

the parking brake is on the front wheels... be sure you have removed the axle nut first. the drum should slide off. sometimes the brake shoes will hang up, making it difficult. soak the threads i npenetrating oil. if you cant get the drum off, try removing the axle from behind with a 3 1/6 drift punch. then you can beat the spindle thru with a hammer. you risk damaging the thread on the spindle. thread on the avle nut upside down so its flush with the spindle. use a block of wood. you can replace the spindle if its damaged. if that dont do it, replace the whole trailing arm as one unit.

the gm thermostat is 54mm

someone here on the board once suggested tractor hydraulic fluid, as it is designed to withstand high pressure, and some tractors use the transmission as the hydraulic reservoir.

make sure you got a spare!!!

i had a spectrum that never warmed up. i put cardboard in front of the radiator and it would warm up a little. but sometimes it would want to get hot in city driving, so i would get out and slide the cardboard over to expose some of the radiator.

actually, now that i have re-read your post, being a 4wd, it should have the ea81 motor. you can tell by looking for the letters EA81 cast on the top front of the motor, lust to the right of the seam down the middle. your rear end parts will interchange with any ea81 wagon, hatch, or brat. its possible the rear brakes fell apart. it may be easier or more cost efficient to swap the whole rear trailing arm as a whole. ea82 disc brakes will bolt up the same, if the brake are shot, give that a consideration. if ea81 parts are hard to come by, an ea82 rear trailing arm will fit with slight mods. also, ea82 drum brakes, which are slightly larger, will swap also. try and get the drum off and report back with your findings

the 2 round headlights for 85 and up means you have the STD model. if you go to the parts counter, for 87, hatchback will come up(ea82 3-door) and STD will come up for what you have. i am not sure if you have the vented or solid brake rotors, but other than that, any parts for 8's wagons and brats will fit. your motor ids the "fat case" ea71 1600, which will share parts with the ea81 1800. it also has the bigger ea81 valves in the ea71 head. the starter is also on the side, which means that it also has the ea81 bellhousing, which will also accept an ea81 or ea82 motor, or, the existing motor will bolt up to any 2wd, 4wd, ea81 and ea82 transmission

if the bellhousing on the tranny doesnt fit the ea81, you may be able to swap the bellhousing from the ea71 to the ea81. i am not sure about the 78 model, but i know the later model ea71 will swap. can anyone back me on this???

if you have an air bubble flaoting around in the thermostat housing, the thermostat will never warm up to opening. check the fluid level while idling, and squeeze the top radiator hose. that would be the first thing to start with.