MilesFox

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does it have the same coil resistor assembly in the same location as that of an ea82?

well, i made a 2-door wagon, using hatch doors. i had a sunroof from an ea81 on trashwagon 4, i had to cut a hole in the roof. to do the t-top swao, its really important to know WHERE to make your cuts, and see what kind of supports it has behind it. i would recommend taking the headliners out of boththe car and the brat, and compare differences, you can use holes and such as a reference to make it fit. if you took the time to drill out any spot welds, you can get it to fit as it would from the factory. the difficult part would be the welding. sheetmetal welding can be tricky. start off with tack welds about an inch apart. each time around, make your next tack right next to the last round's. dont let it get too hot, as it may distort the metal. make some practice welds on something else if you need to build your experience/skills for such a weld

the drilling of the crossmember is not necessary. let it be noted that also, the motor mounts between ea81 and ea82 will swap out with eachother. on our glf, and Tom's Brat, the flyeheel holes have been drilled out to accept the ea82 fltwheel bolts you can also use an ea82 flywheel and pressure plate, with the ea81 disc, as long as the throwout bearing isnt the small one(2wd 5 spd) the bottom radiator hose will have to be fanagled to fit an ea81 radiator, but on tom's brat for example, has an ea82 radiator, the holes for the top mounts will have to be drilled into the ea81 core support. an ea81 manifold woll fit, but on carter/wever models, you will have to make a dent in the power steering reservoir for the solenoud on the fromt of hte carb. throttle cable swii swap between ea81 and ea82, its best to use the throttle cable for the intake setup that you use when swapping an ea82 into an ea81 body, any 85 and 86 distributor will be compatible with any 83 and up ea81 ignition systems. for those models with voltage regulators, the VR can be eliminated with the ea82 distributor. when using a hitachi carb from an ea82, you must use the ea82 airbox(black) because the top af the carb is larger. but other than that, they are the same as ea81(blue) and all the connections fit the same, and the same air filters and tops will fit either one. on my particular setup. i use the ea82 battery cavles, and installed the battery opposite, which would be tha same as ea82 setup. i also relocated the coil to be on the distributor side, and spliced the coil's original connectors to wire that runs along the firewallto meet the coil's new location

the hill holder will have to be unbolted and relocated back an inch or two. you will also have to bend the brtake lines a little. you can swap out the master cylinder for one from an automatic-it will give more distributor clearance. you can also remove the distributor when pulling/dropping the engine, it will help get around the master cylinder. you can loosen the motor mounts from the motor so they wiggle, and that gives enough play to fit the studs thru the crossmember.

is the little yellow wire connected? you can always get a mechanical gauge for about 10-15 bucks, your most sure bet with accuracy. sometimes the stock gauge can go out of whack

the one time i thought i had a bad driveshaft, the wheel fell off! was loose lug nuts, i checked the wrong side! anyway, i had to drive 45 miles on the rim, because i had no spare jack the car up again, and try to wiggle the tire side to side, it may be a wheel bearing.

glad to see the washer idea works on a 2nd application! i have never tried it myself:D

35oo at 55 sounds like you may have a 3.9 final gear. most automatics have a 3.7, which will give you about 3500 at 60-65mph. but the auto wagon we have is a 3.9, which will ultimately be better in snow and off road. to find out what gear you have, take a pek under the rear of the car and find the rear differential. there should be a shiny sticker that has the part number, and it will say the gear ratio plain as day. report back with your findings!

Hello from Butler, IN. Nice to see someone who is within a hop skip, and a jump! First of all, i would like to introduce myself, and our local Subaru Alliance! We started here in Butler(i'm sure you know where that is!) Anyway, we have a good collection of subarus, from 5speed wagons to the RX, a legacy, impreza, and an 03 legacy! We have lso lifted, swapped motors, and converted 2wd auto to 4wd automatics. You picked a good place to have a subaru. we have lots of parts, too! and on this board, Tomrhere, 86subaru, and 1ABAJA all are in the know of eachother personally, and we meet and swap parts often. now, to answer your question, the automatic in your 85 is a 3spd. what commonly happens with the 3 spd autos(2wd and 4wd) is the governor shaft goes out, by either getting clogged up, or the gear wearing sown. I'll bet your trans is starting off in 2nd gear. now the 3500 rpm at crues is normal, in fact, 3500 rpm is about the most efficient rpm for the subaru motor. to access the governor shaft, take a peek under the hood. on the passenger side of the transmission, just above the axle, there is a dome shaped cap on the side, held on by 3 10mm bolts. you can remove that, and there is the governor shaft. the shaft pulls out somewhat like a distributor does, you can pull it and clean it up with carb cleaner and such, and check the gear. if the gear is bad, it will have an "apple core" appearence to it. if the gear does prove to be bad, dont worry. dont worry because we can get you one from our parts we have already! good luck trying to find one at the junk yard, because soobs are VERY RARE around these parts (but if you do know of any, PLEASE LET ME KNOW!) if the gear checks out to be good, it just goes back in till the gear meshes, it doesnt have to line up or be in time with anything suppose if you can find a 4wd manual transmission, it wouldnt be very difficult to swap one in. it would install in a day's time with no modifications! send me an email, milesfox@yahoo.com and i will get with you about parts that you may need!

he said the zoloft bunny.... you can go for a ride, delivering pizzas in a trashwagon6, a trashwagon 6!

tell me about it.... welcome to the board. this is the most comprehensive collaboration of collective subaru information anywhere on the internet!

what was that? hey, if you mean doing donuts and driving thru the mayors yard, and dumping couches on the railroad, then you should feel right at home. but that is not because of the town we live in, but for the fact the WE live in this town!

hey, i dont endorse bringing all this up on the board. anyone who replies with their opinions is based on the impression that they get. so i dont expect this to come back on me!

if the mods delete this one, i am not the one who brought it up. but if its to do with me, of course i am going to reply! "UMFMB Ultimate Miles Fox Message Board"

i noticed it was gone, too. i didnt delete it. nor did i start the flame war. my last comments were "i'll let this thread go on as long as it wants to!! I didnt start this, i just wanted to tell of my soob, that's all" i was going to pm a moderator and ask what was up with that, not throwing a fit, but the fact that my posts draw so much odd attention. anyway my other last words were something like "if anyone wants to (PM) have a one on one with Miles Fox, please feel free to do so. "(PM me) not to start arguments, but i encourage that people at least tell me what they think, insults or complimnents the same. its like this whole board is divided in 2 over my dumb rump roast. i am just here, thats all its either i can kill a topic by responding, or hype it up the same. that is because how the board reacts to it. i posted about the bare rim topic. and came back 2 days later to see it was creeping up to page 3, without my input. i try to stay neutral, but people want to pick me out all over the board. if they want to handle it pm, i'll keep it there. but i only respond to whatever on an open forum, because someone BROUGHT IT UP on the open forum. its like i had to change my tune in light of the road trip, which keepss coming up in unrelated topics. oh well, i guess i made my place here. thats the impression that I get.............................

just dont let no one give you hell over it.

hey, at least he didnt pop a tire:D

sounds like it could be a wheel bearing. or at least like what my car is doing. mine gets real bad at 70 mph, but at slower speeds its oonly there when having to hold the wheel slightly to the left to make up for road crown, with the noise being on the right. if i turn slightly to the right, it smoothes out. it also goes away when i drive in the left lane on the highway(road crown) but also my front axle is missing, running off rwed, so the bearing loadings may be different than fwd. the noise only started since the axle was broken mine seems like a bearing, so yours could be the beginnings of a bad one. mine is pretty bad, its getting worse, i got about 1500 miles behind it, and i might be able to strtch another 2000 miles before i have to worry about the wheel falling off or locking up "this is what happens when you drive on a bad wheel bearing" part 3 in a "this is what happens when you " series!

drive as fast as you want. i go 65 in 4x4, on county roads, and out in the field! we had the rx up to 75 in lo, but the rx has a taller lo gear. the book says no more than 45 because of fuel economy in mind. just be sure to "stick to the rules" about using 4x on dry pavement..etc.....

subarus dont like to start in any loss of compression. you could have a loss of compresson by either a bad head gasket, a broken timing belt, or an improperly installed timing belt, or the sot could be off. if you got fuel in the plugs, check to see that the injectors arent leaking or spraying continuously. that happened to my 83 turbo when some wires melted to the exhaust, and have heard of leaky injectors with others' cars yours being an 88, hs a crank angle type distributor, and the 86 and older have a standalone igniton with knock sensor. if you can get the front timing belt covers off, then come back to the board and we can tell you how to check to see if the belts are on properly

zanny dook's wagon has a 3.9 4x4 automatic, spfi. the only one i have seen, the rest were 3.7 the pushbutton 5spd has a 3.7 dual range had 3.9 FT4WD xt6 5spds have a 3.9 rx ft4wd dual range has a 3.7 gear

the ea82 rotor and caliper is larger than the ea81's. also there are 2 vewrsions of ea81 calipers, vented and solid. a solid rotor will fir with a vended's caliper, but not the other way around. if you wanted to use ea82 brakes(on the front) you will have to swap the knuckle. you would either have to modify the ball joint hole and tie rod hole, and also modify the ea81 strut cap to fit on an ea82 strut/knuckle assembly. or you can use the ea82 lower control arm (you have to cut off the mounting point and weld it to the ea81 frame) and tie rod inner and outer ends, and still modify the strut cap. if you wanted to use ea82 brakes. but for the rear wheels, ea82 brakes bolt up. if you cant find disc brakes, at least ea82 drums are bigger:D

i know that 86 era hatches had the ea81 valves in them. but i dont know what year they started the bigger valves. having the starter on the side would be a clue to start with

well, if it fits let me know, because we got a 78 brat with NO front suspension/crossmember/subframe, and an 81 glf for parts