MilesFox

what GD just said, unless you already have enough parts to make it a project. i paid 420.00 for my 83 2wd 5spd with a little rust (but very non rusty for my region) and a krinkled quarter. it ended up with an ea8 motor and 5spd 4x4 tranny, and i dont really have much more into the car than what i paid for it, having the parts already on hand. and this is what it looks like now, the only thing i relly had money into was oil and fluids, brake pads and gaskets, and spray paint. the lights i already had and the sheet metal i got for free and yes, that little puddle up front is fresh. but it still made the 2300 mile trip!

the rx had a piston hang up, but a quick tap with a hammer got it to thread in. my gl-10 wagon was the same way. the boot on the rx was pretty much gone. no leaks. you should be alright to go ahead and put it all together, just keep it in mind and consider a replacement before too long. at least you can drive your ride while looking for new parts, rather than waiting on new parts to drive it

all the used ones i have come across were still good. what i am saying is if you found a used one and decided to use it, you would be good to go

make sure the parking brake is released when bleeing teh front calipers

we take the RX up to 75 in lo-range. about 5000 rpm. i like to shift between hi and lo in 3rd gear. 4th gear lo is about tha same as 3rd hi. in a drag race type situation. start out in lo. shift 1,2,3 lo. when 3rd lo tops out, shif into hi and carry 3rd out, then 4,5 hi. it acts like a 6 speed, 3rd gear is the best for shifting up out of lo. to shift down into lo, say for example in 3rd gear hi, push in the clutch and shift into 4th lo.

well you guys, this weekend was a total disappointment. the bolts to the turbo's flexplate are too chewed up. we got 4 off, but the others are on so tight that an impact wont take them off with 125 pounds of air, and are too chewed up for the breaker bar. we decided to fix up the spfi and put it back in. what i thught was a bad o-ring on the cam box was actually a crack in the cam cover sealmthat was 1.8 inch wide. that was the caise of the major oil leak. then while doing the water pump, the one jim got from napa was the short one, but the one on the motor was the long one. the one on the motor was still in working order, but was probably on its last leg and wouldnt survive the winter, motor has over 180,000 miles. so we used the leftover one from his 80,000 mile turbo wagon so we did the rear seal and the oil pump seal, jim didnt get cam seals or front seal, but they look good enough to make it thru wintr. we put the new clutch on, but had a hell of a time trying to get the motor to line up. the kit came with some odd non subaru throwout bearing, and since the motor wouldnt mate, i had a speculation to pull the clutch disc and see if it fits. nope. the hole was too small, probably for an ea81 or 2wd ea82. maybe it was for something else alltogether with the odd htrowout bearing, 2 strikes out of three. the pressure plate fit though. i told jim to take te lutch set back and ge his money back. the clutch in the car had a fairly new throwout bearing and presure plate and clutch. that clutch still has more than half its life left to it. so we get the spfi running, no more leaking where it did. but i saw a big pudle on teh floor. i took a look under and part of the mickey mouse gasket is protruding out the bottom of the oil pump. i wa slike wtf. that is the irst time i messed up on a oil pump seal. it must have fell out of lace during the install. we never did get to the axle or the rear brake swap. at least the spfi is driveable so i can be moved or parked elsewhere(jim has 7 soobs ain his drive!) but the xt is undriveable and half parted out in vain. the turbo motor is there with all its ecu wiring, if it werent for them damn bolts! i wouldnt call it a failure, but it was by no means successfull. maybe another day. i am going to have to come back and finish the ales and brakes, and fix that oil pump :banghead: :banghead:

hey, dadeeo, if you ned a set of rims to transport jims xt if you were to pick it up, i have all kinds of odd rims with tires that hold air. send me a mail.

its one thing i got here, but its another thing to make it back home! it makes a new vibration, and the steering feels like the power steering doesnt work off-center. the vibration might be from the inner cup still atatched to the trans, i will thake that off and see if it helps. the axle might have bent the ite tod in a way that it "catches" on the knuckle

yo! dont worry about bidding out Tom. i arranged a deal with the xt in butler, splitting it 2 ways. but jim down in ohio has a mint xt for parts, nice clean grey body, straight doors and fenders, glass, lights. he wants to junk it soon(cant get a title), so get on it. maybe i can bring you back some parts(i am at jims right now). if youre interested i'll tell jim!

my inner boot was torn when i got the car. it wa sok, no noise or vibartion. i wnt baja'n got stuck in mud. the outer boot just riped, or it was already ripped, but it got mud in it. then it would pull and click and pop. it held up for about a week, pulling every now and then, but cutting a 4wd donut in the direction of the bad axle broke the outer end. so driving around in 4wd on the rear axle for a few days. in 4wd, the axle would rotate at the same speed as the wheel, although it is not physically atatchet to the wheel. but if the rear wheel broke traction, you would hear it clunking around. after about a week the outer end popped out and wedged in above the caliper. it tore up the rubber brake line, marred the caliper, and bent the caliper slide pin. i popped the ring out the inner end and removed the shaft. then fixed the brake line, and set off for 100 miles to ohio, driving on the rear axle if i would have cleand out the mus and new grease and boot after the baja'n, it would still be good for a good while. if left alone, but no baja'n, i would still have 4wd! and ironically my luck i break an axle the day before it ALMOST SNOWED that is what happens when you rive on a bad axle. but the inner end will hold up WAY longer than the outer. it still had gease. on the way out westin my 83 wagon, my axle let go in wisconsin on the outer end. but i bet the inner end would have made it the whole way! fix them axles, boys

it is a joke in reference to abuse of tha dancing banana:banana:

from the motor? the coil, the distributor (if your soob is spfi or mpfi non-turbo) the little 100 dollar vacuum piece(forget what its called) the vapor canister, starter, cam boxes and covers, oil pan, poi pump, water pump, timing belts, pulleys and covers. pretty much anything that isnt the head or intake

i have mounted the ea82 pump to an ea81 motor. i have also put an ea82 motor ina glf, and swapped some lines from an ea82 to adapt it to the glf rack yes, it can be done i noticed the ea81t has the ea82 airbox, and the battery and coilonthe opposite side,(as in ea82 body, and what i did to my ea82 install on tashwagon)

my sent messagees folder was full its a go. like my new avatar?

i remember my 83 turbo had an ea82 unit

mine did that last night. i'll dump it again. keep hollerin' if you wanna hollar at josh his board name is 1ABAJA

the ciltons book we had didnt have squat. the haynes book has "typical 84 thru 86 mpfi" and 87-84 mpfi one of the wires was labelled brown with black stripe, but the hrness had brown with red stripe. it was the oly brown wire on both the schematic and the harness. yes, it will be standalone. it will run of the spfi coil, but the little dookiet on the bracket will be disconnected. i will wire it up to get it working, and then instal it. if i dont have time to install it, it wil go in the spae tire compartment and connect directly to the battery. but when id does install, it will come in thru the grommet on the passenger firewall, down along the rocker panel, and under the wagon seat. the clip off the ecu will plug into the fuel pump, and the spfi's will hang. all of the spfi connections under the hood will hang too, maybe tape off the connectors and tuck them away, but leave them un-messed with we got as far as having the xt motor out, and the spfi motor out. originally we were going th leave the add-on air conditioner in tact, but the spfi had the long water pump and the xt had the short water pump, and we didnt have the short pump v-pulley required to do so. so we decided to sacrifice the ac for not having to swap water pumps. but we had a problem. the xt flexplate bolts were on super tight, slightly rounded. we got 2 out, but we risk tearing up the bolts too much trying to use 12 point 3/8 dr sockets, and the one 6 side socket we used split on the first try. we amde a last ditch efor to go to walmart for a socket, but hey either had 12 point metrics or 6 point standard, in sets, none would do any good. so we were considering just resealing the spfi and put it back likeit was. but here is the dilemma. the spfi pukes oil, like it is under pressure. jim has cam cover gaskets and an oil pump gasket. the oil leaks onto the crossmember right next to the motor mount hole, which looks to me to be leaking out the o-ring on the cam box where it meets the head. when she runs she has a steady "pour" loke when you dump the last little bit of oil out a quart bottle so tomorrow we are going to go get a good socket, and 1/2 dr set. we need to get at least one motor onthe car and running, but it would be pointless to get the spfi back in if we dont have the o-ring. and if we were to do the rear seal, we would need the socket to pul the flywheel anyway. so in the effort we may as well go with the turbo engine afterall i told jim it was his call, and he said "get one of those motors in" so its up in the air at this point

the wires you want to jump are at the shifter itself, inside the center console. thee is a flat wide connector that connects the auto shifter to the wiring harness. i had jumped it before, but i cant remember what wires. but i fugured it out by jumping around til i got it right!

i had the idea to do the same if i were to get an xt6 for the trashwagon. but i would mount my rad to the hood itself. anyway, very nice, its cool to see a working examole of such an adea. is the mesh a pre existing ventailation cover or a custom unit?

I have the ecu and its wiring harness out and cleaned up. i just finished pulling the knock control unit(86) i grouped the wires and taped them up. the green clip is still there, i will leave it until i find what to wire to. i have the haynes book for a diagram, some of the colors are different than in the book, but i pretty much know what's what. the ecu has its own fuel pump clip, so i will disconnect the spfi's and use it. i will most likely mount the whole unit under the rear seat in the wagon. next comes out the xt motor, then the wagon goes in, and out comes its motor. after swapping brackets and the flywheel, i will connect the ecu and get it running before i make my final connections and installation.

got most of the inside of the xt apart. what was subaru thinking? that xt was pput together in a way that i swear subaru shoved elves in the dashboard to put the screws in, and the elves had to find their way out thru the seams between the plastic! i had to pull the center console, during which i pulled the seats to get to 2 screws(seats were coming out anyway) i had to pull the whole dashboard, after getting the steering column out. i dont understand why you would have to get behind the radipo to pull it out, its still in the dash with impossible screws. keep tearing apart to then find out the ECU is in the Trunk! but its not a waste, because i need the wiring up to the firewall and engine. alleyboy is getting the dashboard anyway. back to work, gotta get the whole bizzle

i'm not upset- just needed to be sure what you meant the first time. now its all said and done.

where is the ecu located on a xt ?

the xt 6 in butler has the ft4wd single range. by buddy said it has a 3.9 gear! a 3.9 gear dhould do 60 at 3500, while a 3.7 will do 65

automatics?