MilesFox

there's a whole case in the fridge. savin it fot tomorrow:drunk: we'll start by puling the hrness from the xt, then the motor. then strip the motor down of its pulleys and anciliaries. then out comes the spfi, then all the pulleys from it goes to the turbo, and then the flywheel swap. then goes in themotor, then the turbo harness. get it running, then suspension swap! then the xt can sit there like a pile of crap, because it has no title(its a shame, because ite real nice!) if i land the xt6 in butler(rough and doesnt run), and get the title, swap the dashboard and call it registered!

is it a manual or auto. for a manual, the best cruising rpm is around 3500 rpm. the motor is fat in its power curve, and takes little pedal effort to maintain or accelerate from there. 3500 rpm on a 5spd dual range with a 3.9 gear is roughly between 55 and 60 mph. a single range 5spd goes about 65 at 3500 rpm in 5th gear. the motor is happiest at 3500 rpm if you need to accelerate, but a lower cruising speed is good around 3000, but you will need to get more into the gas to pick up speed from there. torque and horsepower curves meet at 5252 rpm, which is true for any motor(its a mathmatical equation that equals out to that)

you can either remove the pump from the bracket or remove the whole assembly. first off, remove the lines from the pump and reservoir. the reservoir side has a hose clamp, and the pump side has a 17mm male fitting. use a 19mm to hold the female end so the line doesnt twist. make sure not to lose the o-ring on the male fitting. there are 12mm bolts with torx fittings in the heads. if you can get in there, take them out. but 2 of them are under the intake, you will need some deft hands and some clever wrenching to get to them, or, if you had to take the intake manifold off for any reason, there you go. if you cant get the whole asembly off, start by removing the pulley. wedge a socket extension or whatever between the holes on the pulley and the bracket to break the nut loose. the pulley fits onto a splined shaft, but may need some persuasion to come off. after the pulley is off, there are 3 12mm bolts that hold the pump body to the bracket. remove those and the pump is free. the reservoir can be removed, say as if you needed it for a new pump that doesnt have one. there are 2 10mm bolts that hold it on. dont lose the rubber o-ring between it and the pump itself

bumpity bumpity. well, got 2 beers down and a cigarette so far.

if you dont have a centering tool, install the pressure plate with the bolts loose, but tight enough to keep the clutch disc from sliding around, but loose enough to position it by hand. as the motor goes against the transmission, the clutch will center itself. withthe starter removed, you can tighten the pressure plate bolts thru the starter hole

on my 83 wagon with the ea82 engine, i put the battery and coil on the other side of the car. my original battery, on the opposite side, was connected to the starter cable and engine ground cable. the extra battery, in the CAR's original location, was connected to the fusible link block. it grounded to the body ground (both terminals on the original battery clamps)the alternator was still connected as usual. everything worked like it was supposed to. but every now and then the voltage would kick up to 18, and i had to turn the key off, then back on to restore proper voltage. having 2 batteries connected as such probably overdrew the alt, confusing the voltage regulator. its not that i had a lot of amp draw, but another battery can pull some amps off the alt to keep it up, x2 all the voltage spikes went away when i removed the extra bettery(from the fuse link side

would you keep the safety catch on there, or remove it and let the hood come up without getting out of the car! just dont pull it while driving!!!

well, here i am at jims after driving some 100 miles with no front axle and half a brake system... we got the xt and the wagon over to the garage. ithe wagon had add-on ac, and it works. so we are going to have to switch all the bracketry and pulleys from the spfi to the turbo motor for use in the wagon. also, the pitch bar mounts are going to have to be swapped. the wiring harness for the mpfi on the xt goed into the firewall, so it is separate than the headlight/charging harness. but the fender will have to come off for the knock control unit, for the 86 style mpfi the wagon will keepf its spfi harness, so it wont have to be separated from the headlight/charging harness.. i would like to mount the mpfi ecu under hood, for swapability if the motor went into something else. that way, it could take the spfi motor back plug and play. the only thing i would have to figure out id how to trigger the fuel pump. i would like it to read off the distributor, like the spfi crank angle dist does. but turbo mpfi is an 86, which has a mechanical distributor. iif i dont figure that out the pump will come on with the key in run positiion, or better yet, kick on with the tachometer(which would be on with the distributor thru another circuit. we will also swap the rear trailing arms, it will make the disc swap easier, but the idea is it will allow for use of the xt rear swatbar, which the wagon doesnt have. aso the fron tswaybar will be swapped. the turbo axles will be swapped into the wagon, they were from an automatic, so they will fit the 5 speed. we may consider swapping the whole entire strut/axle/hub assembly in one piece. ot will save some work and not risk boogering the axle threads. swappin xt seats too! the downpipe off the turbo will bolt right in to the wagon's midpipe, as does the y pipe in my turbo wagon(carb spfi block) fits its existing exhaust. this is what i have come up with by looking. more to come tomorrow!

for the actuation angle and the lift capacity, maybe 3-door hatch struts would be best!

the RX will have the same characteristics as a welded diff. the rx takes a little bit getting used to. a lot of it has to do with your approach, and the steering itself. it basically comes down to steering and braking

so if i put a turbo motor in an spfi wagon, it would not be conversion, just a mod, because it already had a motor? my bad. i thought it was an automatic to begin with. but anyway, i would define a conversion as going from one thing to something else, wheras a mod would be doing something to what was already there. for example, regular struts to air struts=conversion adding gl-10 seats and interior pieces=conversion put in an LSD=conversion strut spacers or bracings=mod putting hatch tracks on a gl-10 seat to make it slide forward by the little lever on the back=mod welding a rear diff=mod so by these terms my TrashWagon5 (the one at the show) the 5spd dual range would be a conversion, because it was 2wd. By your definition, it would be a mod, because it was a 5spd, or MT. the ea82 motor would be a conversion, as well as the suspension. the whole driveline and suspension is ea82, so the whole car would be an ea82 conversion. it wouldnt be an ea82 mod, because it is all stock ea82 parts. now the strut caps themselves would be a mod, because it is altered from its stock state to accept a (stock part)conversion(ea81 strut cap on ea82 strut and spring) Now for mod's sake, the sheetmetal armor, the carpet, and the once present 6 inch lift were mods. Now lets reflect on your sedan. I would define the transmission swap as a conversion. but the Pugeot wheels i wold consider a Mod. now for removing all of the air ride, i would call that a conversion, or more appropriately, a retrofit.

what year is it? it might not have a screw if its 85 or 86

weld a nut to the plug. the plug is steel. use a wrench on the nut. and then you can re-use and re-install it.

downshift or decelerate as you come into the turn. stab the brake right before you steer, this moves the weight to the front axle, allowing the back end to kick out, as you come to the apex, nail it and let the rear tires do the talking!

there will be a small bolt off to one side if you are over looking it. there should be 5 bolts!

if you wouldnt ming going to bonners ferry idaho, you can take a peep under my wagon. i'm sorry for my lack of a camera with most of my work! some of it is still yet to be believed!!!!

Yo!, may i suggest that instead of chopping and shortening your ea82 axles, go ahead and do a ea82 lower control arm swap. but that requires cutting a portion of the ea82 crossmember and welding it to the brat. for example. imagine the brat with the lower control arm out. there are 2 sides to the mount, which the bolt goes thru. what you do is cut the rear side off the EA82, and weld it BEHIND the rear one on the brat. this will locate the lower control arm back. the reason for doing so is the brat control arm is straight, and the EA82 bends forward. by moving the mount back, you keep the suspension geometry the same. this will allow you to use the ea82 axles. this will also make your front track wider, and set your caster forward. there is a diagram floating around the board drawn up by one called RGUYVER. he is the one who pioneered the mod. but i havent seen him on the board for a while. he is the one who put spfi on an ea81 motor and turbo'd it! in a lifted hatch with the suspension mod I have done the mod to my wagon. also, with the ea82 lower control arm, it will allow you to use the bigger ball joint on the EA82 knuckle, using the larger EA82 brake rotor and caliper. i also used the ea82 strut and spring, modifying my existing strut cap to fit the new strut. and after doing that, you will need to use the ea82 tie rod. the mod is supposed to swap out the inner tie rod, but on mine, i had a manual rack, which that idea didnt work. you can lengthen your existing tie rods about 1 1/2 inch. you can use the ea82 outer tie rods, or use the ea81, but using ea81(from the brat), you will have to ream out the hole on the knuckle. in my opinion, do that rather than cut the axles! you can also swap rear disc to the back, just bolt on, or even swap in a set of ea82 rear trailing arms with a little bit of trimming. please respond to my suggestion, and let me know your consideration!

well, judging from the manner in which the motor was pulled from my ride, you know, throttle cable still connected to the pitch bar bracket still connected to the pitch bar and just floating around, i dont think the previous mechanic wouls have known how to totally remove an air system components. no lines no switches. if it DID have an air suspension, i would be able to tell by looking! the last time i looked at your sedan i noticed the 5 spd and commented on the conversion. but my compliment was met by a dismissal, because since it was already 4wd, its not a conversion

on the downpipe after it comes off hte turbo, there is 14mm bolt that holds it to the side of the transmission. check to see if it is there. there is another bolt that holds the rear of the downpipe, right before the flange, to a bracket that comes off the back of the transmission

tell me about it. my car will be delivered to tha state line so i dont have to deal with idaho!

there are a few of us in the indiana, ohio, and michigan area that meet every so often. we usually meet at jim's place, about an hour and a half from columbus so far with this local crowd, we have lifted 2 wagons, done 2 2wd to 4wd conversions, 2 ea82 engines in ea81 body conversions, a few auto to stick conversions, and 3 TrashWagons, have an RX with a semi-lift and 16 inch wheels, 3 Brats, an impreza, a legacy, a new legacy, and have gone thru many parts carsand countless off road adventures! this weekend we are swapping a turbo motor into a 4wd wagon hope you can meet with us sometime, we had a swap meet last year, and we need to meet again next year to make out Subaru Alliance meet annual

if you have seen my 'scoop yet, i have another piece of sheet metal pre bent to fit without trimming. i'll let you have it if you wanted it. I can most likely give you the GLF hood, if i can have the old one back as "core" right now the glf is going to be parted for the BRAT, but it will need a hood if it goes back together with different parts. so far josh is in control of the GLF, it was traded as credit for the RX, and the suspension is reimbursement for robert's suspension getting junked. but for the moment the GLF just sits there, the hood dismounted. the only thing its doing right now is keeping water off the motor. but a big piece of plywood will substitute!

14mm, the same as the wrist pin plugs. i have an S*K hex socket, it was about 14 bucks

however loud the 'bomb will be is dependent on where it is on the exhaust. i got mine right behind the y-pipe, and some 3 feet of 3 inch pipe after that. idles real quiet, but rev it up and it sounds kinda ricey, but very deep in tone!

my trashwagon is an 83, it has the brake booster and master cylinder off an 82, which has 2 reservoirs, which is the same unit in pre82 gen 1's. so you got the whole brake booster off an ea82, if i read correctly. from what i have messed with, i have noticed the pedal boxes for ea81 and ea82 bolt up to the firewall the same, and of course, the brake booster studs go thru these holes. so what is in the turbo brat for a transmission?, and where can i find the pics? milesfox@yahoo.com