MilesFox

make sure to keep up on its flui changes, and clean and inspect the governor shaft, as most autos go to hell from lak of attention. check the front diff oil. it uses gear lube. it has a separate reservoir and dipstick than does the ATF

i dont know about where to buy one or order one from, but i can tell you that if you go lookin for junkyards, youll find them in most turbo models, and ones that didnt come with a clutch fan. try gl-10 turbos specifically although they may appear in non turbo models, like this 88 spfi wagon we are working on. (but we're swapping a turbo into it!) spmeone on the board may have one for you, and by where you are located, someone not too far away. try the marketplace forum you could try ebay others can give you a link to a place to order from

here is a little deductive logic from what you all said the ea81 turbo ale will fit the same as a non turbo. although the axle itself might be thicker in diameter, it will have the same spline count as a normal axle. EA81T's came from the factory with the automatic. The automatic has the same spline count 4spd dual range, 2wd 5spd, 4wd automatic, and 2wd automatic. They should all be the same as long as they stay on the same engine. ea 81 will not work with ea 82 and vise versa That is not true. I had an ea81t wagon that had a 5spd 4wd from an ea82 installed. So that means that not only does the 5spd dual range have the same spline count, but that means that any ea82 5spd 4x4, 4wd automatic, 2wd 5spd, and 2wd auto have tha same spline count, as well as non-turbo single range pushbutton 5spd. On ea82 Turbo models, any with the 4wd and 2wd 3spd automatic will have the same spline count. But the single range pushbutton 4wd 5spds and 4spd full time autos, and rx dual range 5spds have a different spline count. quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by GeneralDisorder EA71 depends on which bell houseing it has. If the starter is in the middle, the axles will be different. If the starter is to the right like an EA81, then the axles are the same as any EA81 axle. GD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- i'm telling you that aint true. i pulled the axels from a ea71 hatchback with the STARTER IN THE MIDDLE and put them on my ea81 with the STARTER ON THE LEFT. The transmissoin with the starter on the top is the ea71 BBELLHOUSING, and the one with the starter on the top has the EA81 bellhousing. so if the axle will fit from an ea71 single rangetransmission onto an ea81 dual range transmission, then that means the same axle will fit on any of the aforementioned transmissions(except for the mentioned turbo transmissions). this also proves that either mentioned axle will fit against either mentioned transmisson in either a gen1 pre-79 and gen2 80-84wagon, sedan,coupe -89 hatch and brat, in either combination Also EA81 2wd and EA82 2wd axles are not the same. The EA82 axles have a longer shaft. so is true. that is because the ea82 has a wider track than ea81 and earlier bodies. using any ea82 or ea81 axle against any transmission will depend strictly on which body it is going on. but my 83 wagon has ea82 axles! no that's not impossible, and no, it didnt just fit. that's my secret for now(although some of you may know what it is!)

i was having a similar discussion with a budy about explaining the RX open center diff, and the limited slip on the rear axle. we got so confused in our trying to understanding eachother that he suggested that "if i put the RX on jackstands, and turn the rear axle forward, then one front tire would spin the same way, and the other front tire would spin backwards." and then it made sense for both of us

so let me know when you come to indy. where i am at tonight is equidistant to indy and where i live as i ponder, i wonder what would be a good way to wire the ign pulse signal to the spfi's ecu to kick on the fuel pump? leaving all the spfi stuff intact, so it will work the same with the absence of the turbo junk. i really dont feel the need to pull the carpet up, although the seats will get swapped.

no, tis is a rig if you havent seen one! yes, that's sheet metal all down the side, and the "EA82" sticker aint lyin'! this was the last trashwagon, the one described in the signature! i drove the bizzle all the way out west, although the trip almost ended some 15 miles into the 2300 mile venture. but it only got back as far as idaho, because of my dumb A. its still there waiting for me

well get your A over here and give me a hand!

and when it blows out the windshield you will be glad the hood is there to keep your eyes from drying out!

i meant ign coil. they were both starting batteries, one interstate, and the other some duralast or wal-mart brand. maybe the way it was grounded had something to do with it. it might have not been a parallel connection the way i had it. i was for a little bit running a spare battery in the car with jumper cables to the main. i dont recall voltage spikes then. but it was good year ago at least.............

that's cool. its your ride, do with it what you like. at least you can be driving it around instead of having it up on jackstands! but keep the mod in mind for your next project---its not as much as it sounds to be! as long as you already have all the parts!!!

i cut off the mounting part from the air box, then welded a piece of exhaust pipe expanded to fit the diameter of one of those big cheap ricer cone filters. and it sticks out of the hood like a jet engine!http://usmb.net/gallery/albun92/Oct21_53?full=1

looks yummy. so how many licks does it take to get to the water passages?

there's a whole case in the fridge. savin it fot tomorrow:drunk: we'll start by puling the hrness from the xt, then the motor. then strip the motor down of its pulleys and anciliaries. then out comes the spfi, then all the pulleys from it goes to the turbo, and then the flywheel swap. then goes in themotor, then the turbo harness. get it running, then suspension swap! then the xt can sit there like a pile of crap, because it has no title(its a shame, because ite real nice!) if i land the xt6 in butler(rough and doesnt run), and get the title, swap the dashboard and call it registered!

is it a manual or auto. for a manual, the best cruising rpm is around 3500 rpm. the motor is fat in its power curve, and takes little pedal effort to maintain or accelerate from there. 3500 rpm on a 5spd dual range with a 3.9 gear is roughly between 55 and 60 mph. a single range 5spd goes about 65 at 3500 rpm in 5th gear. the motor is happiest at 3500 rpm if you need to accelerate, but a lower cruising speed is good around 3000, but you will need to get more into the gas to pick up speed from there. torque and horsepower curves meet at 5252 rpm, which is true for any motor(its a mathmatical equation that equals out to that)

you can either remove the pump from the bracket or remove the whole assembly. first off, remove the lines from the pump and reservoir. the reservoir side has a hose clamp, and the pump side has a 17mm male fitting. use a 19mm to hold the female end so the line doesnt twist. make sure not to lose the o-ring on the male fitting. there are 12mm bolts with torx fittings in the heads. if you can get in there, take them out. but 2 of them are under the intake, you will need some deft hands and some clever wrenching to get to them, or, if you had to take the intake manifold off for any reason, there you go. if you cant get the whole asembly off, start by removing the pulley. wedge a socket extension or whatever between the holes on the pulley and the bracket to break the nut loose. the pulley fits onto a splined shaft, but may need some persuasion to come off. after the pulley is off, there are 3 12mm bolts that hold the pump body to the bracket. remove those and the pump is free. the reservoir can be removed, say as if you needed it for a new pump that doesnt have one. there are 2 10mm bolts that hold it on. dont lose the rubber o-ring between it and the pump itself

bumpity bumpity. well, got 2 beers down and a cigarette so far.

if you dont have a centering tool, install the pressure plate with the bolts loose, but tight enough to keep the clutch disc from sliding around, but loose enough to position it by hand. as the motor goes against the transmission, the clutch will center itself. withthe starter removed, you can tighten the pressure plate bolts thru the starter hole

on my 83 wagon with the ea82 engine, i put the battery and coil on the other side of the car. my original battery, on the opposite side, was connected to the starter cable and engine ground cable. the extra battery, in the CAR's original location, was connected to the fusible link block. it grounded to the body ground (both terminals on the original battery clamps)the alternator was still connected as usual. everything worked like it was supposed to. but every now and then the voltage would kick up to 18, and i had to turn the key off, then back on to restore proper voltage. having 2 batteries connected as such probably overdrew the alt, confusing the voltage regulator. its not that i had a lot of amp draw, but another battery can pull some amps off the alt to keep it up, x2 all the voltage spikes went away when i removed the extra bettery(from the fuse link side

would you keep the safety catch on there, or remove it and let the hood come up without getting out of the car! just dont pull it while driving!!!

well, here i am at jims after driving some 100 miles with no front axle and half a brake system... we got the xt and the wagon over to the garage. ithe wagon had add-on ac, and it works. so we are going to have to switch all the bracketry and pulleys from the spfi to the turbo motor for use in the wagon. also, the pitch bar mounts are going to have to be swapped. the wiring harness for the mpfi on the xt goed into the firewall, so it is separate than the headlight/charging harness. but the fender will have to come off for the knock control unit, for the 86 style mpfi the wagon will keepf its spfi harness, so it wont have to be separated from the headlight/charging harness.. i would like to mount the mpfi ecu under hood, for swapability if the motor went into something else. that way, it could take the spfi motor back plug and play. the only thing i would have to figure out id how to trigger the fuel pump. i would like it to read off the distributor, like the spfi crank angle dist does. but turbo mpfi is an 86, which has a mechanical distributor. iif i dont figure that out the pump will come on with the key in run positiion, or better yet, kick on with the tachometer(which would be on with the distributor thru another circuit. we will also swap the rear trailing arms, it will make the disc swap easier, but the idea is it will allow for use of the xt rear swatbar, which the wagon doesnt have. aso the fron tswaybar will be swapped. the turbo axles will be swapped into the wagon, they were from an automatic, so they will fit the 5 speed. we may consider swapping the whole entire strut/axle/hub assembly in one piece. ot will save some work and not risk boogering the axle threads. swappin xt seats too! the downpipe off the turbo will bolt right in to the wagon's midpipe, as does the y pipe in my turbo wagon(carb spfi block) fits its existing exhaust. this is what i have come up with by looking. more to come tomorrow!

for the actuation angle and the lift capacity, maybe 3-door hatch struts would be best!

the RX will have the same characteristics as a welded diff. the rx takes a little bit getting used to. a lot of it has to do with your approach, and the steering itself. it basically comes down to steering and braking

so if i put a turbo motor in an spfi wagon, it would not be conversion, just a mod, because it already had a motor? my bad. i thought it was an automatic to begin with. but anyway, i would define a conversion as going from one thing to something else, wheras a mod would be doing something to what was already there. for example, regular struts to air struts=conversion adding gl-10 seats and interior pieces=conversion put in an LSD=conversion strut spacers or bracings=mod putting hatch tracks on a gl-10 seat to make it slide forward by the little lever on the back=mod welding a rear diff=mod so by these terms my TrashWagon5 (the one at the show) the 5spd dual range would be a conversion, because it was 2wd. By your definition, it would be a mod, because it was a 5spd, or MT. the ea82 motor would be a conversion, as well as the suspension. the whole driveline and suspension is ea82, so the whole car would be an ea82 conversion. it wouldnt be an ea82 mod, because it is all stock ea82 parts. now the strut caps themselves would be a mod, because it is altered from its stock state to accept a (stock part)conversion(ea81 strut cap on ea82 strut and spring) Now for mod's sake, the sheetmetal armor, the carpet, and the once present 6 inch lift were mods. Now lets reflect on your sedan. I would define the transmission swap as a conversion. but the Pugeot wheels i wold consider a Mod. now for removing all of the air ride, i would call that a conversion, or more appropriately, a retrofit.

what year is it? it might not have a screw if its 85 or 86

weld a nut to the plug. the plug is steel. use a wrench on the nut. and then you can re-use and re-install it.