MilesFox

toss the cups on the guy who threw a bottle out as he passed you!(you should have been there!)

the 81 glf had teh feature, but maybe it was an option rather than standard as in 83

it can be done, but the ea82 conversion has to be done first!(which has been done)

yo! it is possible to use ea82 lower control arms and axles if you cut the lower control arm mount off an ea82 and weld it to the ea81 crosmember. that will allow you to use the ea82 balljoint/knuckle/strut. you can modify the ea81 strut cap to fit the ea82 struts, use your choise of spring. it will add a little but of negative camber, good for cornering. you will have to change out to ea82 tie rods. ea8s rear trailing arms will fit on the ea81 with skight mod, but any ea82 brake or hub will fit on the ea81 rear trailing arm. i have the ea82 suspension in (83)TrashWagon 5, so with tose mods, it would readily take xt-6 parts just like that! there is a diagram floating around the board, it was from rguyver's plans, he did the same thing to his hatch ea81 spfi turbo!

yeah, i helped

its the land of But-Tucky. Butler: the town named after But. and the dook nougaty splookum of the land scizzape brings a fyostey twinge to the atmosphere. Whoa! HereComes Bill-Anus!!! watch out, as he attempts to pinch josh's choad! While Zanny Dookes swings from the Nute Sack of Ro-Neece, will the glf fix the brat, or will it become another product of the Derelict Factory? You should have had Yosh abolish the dept on the RX and hand over the Title deebo on the chrome roof rack (I called it!) or give me back my sedan steering wheel!

i suspect it could be the little nougat on the coil bracket: jim has some spare parts for me to use, maybe i should swap out the ecu,fom an 87 turbo. the thing that gets me is the reference voltage for the tthermo sensor: its supposed to be 5 volts, but id 3.6, and its 3.6 right off the ecu. i have a coil that i know is good, and my pick of 3 distributors. hopefully i get this thing too run right. its ironic my car dooks on me the day before i got my license back! (yup, i'm legal, the car is insured and plated, too!!!) Yo Yo Yo! What it is, mutherfyorker! Myoss Feece! my fecal brother! lets take a slo-cruise in lo-range in the rx, and twist an axle if you know them ebonics i be spewin'!

ok, i'll do that. so what would cause a wrong reference voltage right off the ecu. would that be the ecu itself? i have no idea of what condition this car was in before i got it. the motor was inthe trunk! all i know is its put together properly and doesnt leak!!!

i considered having them apart to test the components, but the haynes manual is worthless in this department "as mentioned in chapter 11, but may have to look in chapter 4" and how would a distributor be descrobed in the "body" chapter*stupid haynes) what should i check for on these (volts, ohms) swapping the whole wire is a good idea. i had an spfi dist apert, so i know what to i'll be getting into.

i meant 'thru' 88

"The (component) is difficult to access, so we reccomend you take it to a qualified dealer or shop to have it serviced"-Haynes i'm having the same literary troubles when it comes to troubleshooting my MPFI!

its possible you can make a about 2 inches of SUSPENSION lift in the rear. you can drop the diff hanger and make strut extensions the same length, keeping the axles and diff and hups in the same relation to eachother. if it goes hight enough, you can make a drop shackle for the diff thru-bolt mount to ease the angle on teh driveshaft as it is on the 87 rx with te 205/55 16 inch chevy 6 lugs! having it up in the back a little will also raise the front up a little bit, too

i took a water pump off an 87 hatch with an ea71 and put it on an ea81 83 wagon, fits the same

i wanted to get a truck plate for my soob. i tell them its a multi purpose vehicle, its a wagon. they have it down as a 4S, which is what i believe to be a sedan. they say it has to be a 4W for the truck plate. the lady tells me they go by the last title. i told them it was a florida title, and the body designation was not listed. when i applied for the title, they had to look up for the designation. i told them that the make is SBU, and it should be a 5w (as it is on my 83 wagon). i had a previous registration, car originally a colorado car, but i got it with an indiana title. it was the mentioned 83 wagon, it was the make was designated as a SUB, but i said it was supposed to be SBU and they found that and corrected it. so that proves the license branch makes mistakes they want to act like i am trying to pull the wool, and wer being "politely Rude" about it. so what is the body designation for the 87 wagons? i know it should be 4 or 5w, my buddy had a truck plate on an 88 gl wagon, spfi 4wdAT wagon

so i got a voltmeter. the temo switch is supposed to read around 700-1000 ohms when warm, but reads about 450. the reference voltage is supposed to be 5 volts, but reads about 3.6 and the tps.. its supposed to read 5 volte wide open, and .5 volts closed. but it seems to read backward, 4.5 volts closed and .07 closed. and now the coil goes out. it was some sort of napa coil, i got a replace ment nippondenso that reads the right resistances.. the old coil was open on the secondary winding. i got a spare turbo disty,(optical type) the haynes book doesnt tell squat about them, i need to fix the plug on it to work. so WTF?

i cant think of anything else that is 86 specific, except for the wiper switch being where the fan switch is on 88, the headlight switch being where the hazard button is on 88, and orange instrument cluster and the windshield washer nozzles are under the hood.

i also blocked off all those pcv hoses and no difference. its too annoying! i am going to get my license back (hopefully) today, and i want to drive MY SOOB, MY SOOB, MY SOOB. let's hear it, someone should know. *screaming like the arby's oven mitt*AAUUGGHH!!! i need a voltmeter!!!!!

funny thing my turbo does the same thing. it runs like a scalded dog when cold, but once warm, she cuts out when you open her up, cant get mre than 1500 revs, and is impossible to start. i changed out my coolant sensor, it didnt change anything(although my replacement may be bad...) i heard a slight puffing noise on thepassenger side, i think it was a cross threaded plug, pulled it and re threaded it. still does all this craziness. if the puffing is there i will check out my intake gasket/ anyway, if you fix your problem, let me know so i cna try that, i will do the same!!

if its idling too high when warm, and the engine has beeb serviced before, suppose the throttle cable is a bit too snug?

wagons, sedans, and 3door will all interchange the same. the trim should be the same for matching years, although rx and loyale should be different. the corner marker lights all fit the same, the only difference is he size of the orange part between 87 and 88

bit dont mill the heads too much, because half the bracketry and the intake manifold are relative to the heads position, milling them down too far will offset a lot

remove the clutch fan using a 7/8 (or 22mm) on the fan shaft, and a 10mm on the nuts. once the fan is out, remove the radiator by the 2 12mm bolts on the top. dont forget the at lines if its an auto. there is a drain plug on the passenger bottom side of the radiator with the radiator out, you got all kinds of room to service the water pump. there are 5 10mm bolts, one of them is shorter than the rest. there is a water tube that goes to the upper hose, it pops put of the pump end, but there is a 12mm bolt that holds it to the driver side head, and a ground wire atatches to it. you may have to swing the alternator out of the way if iut has the panasonic ac system

the haynes book says to let the engine warm, and once its at operating temp, give a couple of quick revsm and see if the middle part raises up about 1/8 inch. ir use a vacuum gage and add 10 inches of vacuum and see if the middle of the egr raises. just read up on that last night , after my ecs flashed a code 34 (or was it 42? it was late....)

its easier to to trannies, exhaust, driveline if you jack the car up on it s SIDE thw 2wd auto to 4wd5spd we dit we drilled the spot welds on the carrier bearing from the parts car, snad chiseled it off. then we tack welded it to some squares of sheet metat and then tacked them and with screws under the car, after bloting it to the bearing. make sure you dont have any mcdonalds trash near your center console! or you may burn down your ride(like i almost did!) you may want to pull the carpet before you cut/weld the holes for the rear diff mount will be punched out on the outer layer ov metal, you will see the holes as a guide to drill thru. other than the carrier bearing and the diff mount, everything else is bolt-on! the wholw rear suspension can be swapped over in one piece. make sure you undo the brake lines, undo the rubber lines where they meet the body. also the main fuel line from the tank runs thru a tube connected to the rear suspension tube, so pinch that off before you pull it. 2wd and 4wd tanks are the same for ea82 models, so tank swapping will not be necessary(unless one is in better shape than the other!)

check then pitch bar and what angle it makes the whole thing sit at. also if the tranny mounts are bad the rump roast end of the trans will flop around like a fisha nd smack up the bottom of the car.