MilesFox

zANNY DOOKS WAGON DID THE SAME THING. WE RAN A WIRE TO THE SOLENOID AND MAD A PUSH-BUTTON START, and it never had a problem after that

what tom said. the wiring should come up into the car at the [assenger side taillight and along the side, you may be able to access some of it for poking with a voltmeter under the rear seat (it flips up, exposing the floor, brake, fuel lines and some wiring)

suspect the hill holder if you had a manual. autos ned not apply!

she still rund good cold, but last night we went for a cruise, and performance dropped off as she got warm. i let danny drive, he stalled it, so we had to wait almost an hour before she would cool off enough to start. i ran the trouble codes, it came up with code 33, 34, 42, and 51 the speedo works, one of them is the (idle Switch) but i replaced the TPS 42 i think is egr valve and 51 i cant remember off hand. i did another round and got code 22 but i probably should clear the codes too, because it has ben running around with a carb motor! so i shoild reset them and try again and see what it says. i am thinking it is the therm switch by the turbo. i will see if i can get a volt meter today. so what do we know thus far?

those loose connectors by the front drivers side corner, there should be 2 or 3, those are diagnostics clips and dont go to anything. what trans do you have? my wagon is an 87 gl-10 with turbo and 5spd. yours being an 86, you would have a points type distributor with a standalone knock unit, wheras my 87 has the optical type dist with the crank angle sensor, and works with the ecu. you can tell by looking at the dist. cap, does it have sctews or clips? 2 wires to the coil or a big white(or black) clip?

yo! i have built a 3 inch and a 6 inch lift, and just recently helped in a bolt thru lift(for the rear of the sedan, which included suspension lift, and found its way onto the rx!) if you have a decent automotive knowledge of suspension, have welding skills, and get a good look at the underneath of a soob, you would probably not have much trouble building a lift.' if you decided to, o can tell you what WONT work, but because of what didnt work, now i know what will. i had a rear end collapse on me, but i did fix that, but i took the whole lift ouy due to the front not being straight. but i used cheap materials and a crappy welder, but HEY, it worked! my 2 builds, plus getting to see a real lift in person, the next one i would build would be strong, straight, and sturdy. ea81 would be easier to lift than ea82

i poked mine out with a dremel and a "snake" extension. i ground away that little nougat you speak of, and i blended in the area around the valve guides. there are a few casting seams in there, i blended those in and smoothed them out. and i straightened out some of the curvature of the "walls" in the ports, so air had more of a straight shot. i blended in the valbe guide ribs in the exhaust port, too, and blended in the webbing of the exhaust port, and opened it up a little. i did this to heads with questionable cracks, but the car runs. it had real good low end response, but i cant get above 4500 when she is running good(whatever it is, its component problems, not the heads!)

all the brake pads on fronat anr rear discs are the same. the onlt difference between the fwd nad 4wd REAR is the HUB itself. pads and rotors the same!

all the carb ea82 i ahve seen have no oxygen sensor. the one i had i put in an 83 wagon, went out west with 30mpg..... had another one with all the vacuum manifold stripped off, but it ran a little rich

all the original mpfi was left alone. the only thing from the car that was hooked up was the coil, and that was to the 2 wires from an 86 distributor, installed on an spfi BLOCK, with a CARB on the intake. the turbo motor was put together from being in the back of the car with both blown head gaskets when i got the car. I tell you what, she runs like a scalded dog, will squal first just putting it down after she's rollin' i replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the throttle position switch, and that solenoid on the throttle body, all from an intake that came off a car that i knew ran. (the intake had the old bolts stuck in them, otherwise i would have used it to begin with!) after i replaced these components, she ran real good, parked the car, then got her to start later, but was hard to start, and it wanted to cut out at 2500-3000 rpm i found what appeared to me to be a thermo switch near the turbo, it has a plug on it like a fuel injector, but the one that was on had funnt un-stock wiring, so i replaced it with the one from the spare intake, and its wire. i figure it is for the mpfi computer, because the one on the water neck should be the temp sensor for the gauges. so i know the car will run like its supposed to. but it is near impossible to start when warm, and it dooks out at 2500 rpms and such. i checked the auxiliary air valve, it is closed with the engine warm. the rubber hose that goes from it to the manifold, i will pinch that and give it a rev, and it wants to bloat a little from boost. i did the same thing to the RX(which runs fine), and the rx does the same thing. so i would surmise the thing is working like its supposed to. i need a stupid volt meter to test the components according to the haynes manual, but i need one first. the clip for the aav does get voltage with the motor running, as i jumped a wire on the terminals and got sparks. the motor wanted to cut out during the spark, but i pulled the wire off right away, she kept idling. if i were to get her started while warm, she will idle all day, but cut out when you open her up. the inlet i fabbed up has 3 holes for the pcv lines, wheras a stock inlet has one on the inside of the motor, and a vapor can hole on the other side. my fabbed goes to the middle of the car, its made from the 2 turbo sides of the turbo inlet, a turbo plenum rubber hose(turbo side hose), vinyl tape, and a hose clap holding on the top of an spfi inlet, with the maf to it. the first turpb inlet piece has a pcv line on it from the passenger cam cover, the hole on the spfi unit is connected to the crank case vent, and the third hole is connected to the T that is to the tight of the throttle body, that comes from the right side of the bottom of the intake, and connects the ilet system to that T, and also the driver side cam cover. i know the stock system draws all the pcv vapors into the inlet, but thru one hole, and not 3. so having 3 holes, will that decrease the air flow across the MAF? i may disconnect all of them, except for the vent on top of the block, having only one hole used. it does seem to be a vacuum or lean condition to me, definately fuel starvation, bu thter is no visible leaks. i had a budy pull the brake booster hose, and it ran more dookey in the same manner with it off, so i surmise it HAS to be vacuum/lean/or inlet tube leak before the maf. but it does run way better than she first did, just got to get around the warm start issue. so far when i start it when cold, she runs fine until i turn her off, but i havent driven it more than a few minutes from a cold start. even though running fine after a cold start, she still cuts out at 4500 rpm, it may be the fuel cut off, i disconnected all that jazz vacuum lines from the turbo, and made the hose go from the turbo to the wastegate (like on the 86 xt) maybe the thermo switch is still bad? what can you guys tell me, this IS my first turbo!

an ea82 isnt so bad if you are mechanically inclined enough to do timing belts and whatever preventative maintenance. if tou are skilled enough to swap motors from one body to the other, then timing belts should not worry you. i personally prefer the ea82, it gets better high rpms, and the 5spd transmission that comes with them takes full advantage of the power curve. some like the 5spd in their ea81 cars, but i have an ea82 with a 5spd in my ea81 body,,,,,,the ea81 doesnt really get the rpms up there for the 5 spd trannies, but are just right for the 4 spds that come with them (4wd's)

the coil is fine. let me make the point that this car has seen the last 800 miles or so with an spfi motor and carb, with the same coil. but, however, it was doing similarly with the carb when i first got IT running, come to find out the dist was way off, but not a tooth off. but i found this out after putting the THIRD carb on it (the other 2 were most likely bad) but i think it has to do with fuel, myself, but a timing light could be very useful!!!! do these symptoms sound like the problem of something else?

i will undo the motor mounts an d jack up the motor on the oil pan, it will get the studs up high enough so the tranny doesnt run into the front crossmember before the bellhousings meet. and as far as drain pans go, regardless of being environmentally conscious, i always drain into a pan, because, i myself prefer not to lay in all that mess!

i took bits and pieces of a turbo inlet and spfi fittings to make ductwork so i could mount the MAF above the turbo plenum, mounted to the little 10mm screw. i cut out the MAF mount d=from the airbox and welded it to a bracket, took a piece of exhaust pipe and stretched it out to fit on one of thos cone filters, had to cut a hole in the hood. but now i have a big ol cone filter that sticks out like BLAM! from the hood. i had a piece of metal that just so happens to conveniently bent to be the same circumfrence as the filter, and goes bact and flattens out with the hood. looks like a jet engine. i can make a drain tube on the back side of the filter, because the top half of it is exposed. it rained today, the motor did not choke... the scoop goes back far enought that i could cut out a hole for one of those xt turbo shrouds.......... the car makes lovely turbo sounds between shifts, now only if the car ran right......................

I got my 87 gl-10 turbo motor installed and hooked up. now for all of you who remembers my cracked head post, they hold about 110 psi, the car will start idle and run! but sometimes it wont start for nothing. i got this "custom intake" using pieces of turbo and spfi piping, with the MAF above the turbo plenum and a big ol cone filter like "BLAM!" sticking out of the hood with a hood scoop behind it, looks like a JET ENGINE on the hood! anyway, i taped upt he fitting with better tape, starts a little easier. but halfway thru the rpm range it acts like its not getting fuel, it makes cackling sounds at the exhaust. when driving, you can put the gas in a little, shift way soon, and it will pull, but if you get the rpm u, or open the throttle enough, she loses power right away. i had an spfi fuel pump on there to begin with, but now i have a turbo pump. the pumps were so rusty that they leaked, i tried to weld one, still leaked, so i tore the damper off of it and connected the hose directly to the fitting. the distributor appears to be in the right spot, lined up with 0deg and #1, and you can see the "bare spot" where the bolt goes is lined up. timeing belts are in line, i know this because they were off when the motor went in the car. i connected the wastegate and boost lines up to where they go, but htat dont make a difference. it seems that its intermittents, the car will pull, and then crap out, but hasnt ran like it is supposed to yet. it seems to start and run better when cold, its next to impossible to start when warm, you will crank and crank, the motor sounds like it s running until you let of the starter, or it will rev up to 2000 rpm than cut out, and if it sounds like its firing, it stops when you put the gas down? who has any ideas? I got a spare intake that i was considering swapping, for fuel pressure regulator and throttle body's sake.......

josh has an 03 legacy, and if he gets out of the car while its running, its in neutral with the parking brake. when i drive an uato i will leave it in neutral at a long red light or the drive thru its less shifting to gto from d to n than it id to go from d to n to r to p!

forget the trailer and get a tow rope or chain, and another soob to pull it!

i had my trashwagon4 deemed unsafe by the Chief of Pilice himself. but it doesnt help causing a scene by being stuck on top the plow's sno pile in the public library parking lot, with no bumpers, tailgate, exhaust, or seat belts!

the rx will sometimes act like its misfiring at 1500 or so, then just kick in all of a sudden with the gas pedal in the same spot. i just got my turbo motor going in the gl-10 wafon, it wont want to rev past 3000-4000 rpm, kicks and bucks like a mule, you open it up more and then it rpm goes down, making cackling sounds at the exhaust. its hard to start, too it started up better this morning, but whatever it is it seems to be fuel related

its a suzuki! a geo metro motor. subaru designed the driveline and aquired the marketing rights to sell it as a subru

i use a razor to clean my heads. there is "pits" as de4scribed from the graphite from the last gasket. its nohing to worry about as long as there are no chunks sticking around. same goes for the engine surface too. no sealant, torque to spec

with an experienced hand, an entire head gasket job and reseal can be done in a day. an engine swap in a matter of a couple hours, if that.

if you are using ea82 struts, you will need to modify the ea81 strut cap to fit them. ir try getting ea82 knuckles to fit on the ea81 strut? or do the whole ea82 lower control arm/axle/knuckle/strut swap, using xt 5lug and swaybar!

if going carb, use an spfi motor for more compression. manifolds all swap the same, ea81, ea82, and spfi

suppose the distributor itself is bad. there are stories of a wire coming loose in the disty, working intermittently until it finally lets go