MilesFox

there will be a "ticking" noise from the lifters if they get old, but is fairly normal. rattling sounds like a ping issue, maybe she is getting too hot, there might be a slight leak in the cooling system, ir possibly a bad head gasket. but running hot somewhere......

ea82 struts in an ea81? and by thus doing so, xt6 suspension pices? i know how to do that, if i had all the parts!

if a front axle lets go, just put it in 4wd and keep going to get home. 4wd wont bind if an axle is broken. the axle will stay in the doj, ait wont flop around like a dead fish...it will break at the bearings rather than the middle of the shaft.

it will be a little easier to put the motor in if you remove the distributor, first. you will either need to drill out the flywheel bolts(as on Tom's, and GLF we did), or use the flywheel and pressure plate from a ea82 5spd(2 or 4wd) the ea82 has larger flywheel bolts other than that it will fit, i got one in my 83 wagon, i moved the battery and coil to the other side of the car, as like an ea82, using the ea82 battery cables, and lengthening the wires to the coil, leaving the disty wires alone. you will want a distributor from an 85-86 distributor to work, but you can also modify the ea81 distributor to fit the ea82 if you swap out the little gear on the end.

on my gl-10 wagon, with turbo mpfi harness and coil, spfi motor, and coil from an 86 carbbed, i jumped a wire from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil terminal, and the whole car came on as if the key was in the run position. and then i started it by jumping the solenoid. what i'm saying is you can start the car from under the hood with no key!

i have had them where the axle will come off the hub end, stick to the diff, take it all out and swing a bug hammer, rotating the doj each strike, pounding the backside of the doj away from the diff. if ya gotta heat them up, you can take the axle apart at the doj, get the doj off the diff, and then put the axle back together

the physical demonsions will fit in the ea82 body, but you will either have to use an adapter plate, or use an ej transmission. and wiring harnesses and such, unless you invent your own manifold for a carb and the like!

you will want to do the driver side 12:00 ifrst. then rotate crank 360, the driver will now be at 6:00 then do your passenger at 12:00. now yer set! the hatnes book will throw you off if you go by pics alone. it is showing both cams up, because the pics assume the 360 crank rotation. check the text

find a junkyard car if it has no title, swap in your dashboard, and now you "still have the same car"

oops. my bad! do it up something good!

i got my turbo motor down in the wagon, and made up some ductwork so the MAF sits right above the "subaru 4wd turbo"plenum, for a cone filter. i woll be exploring the idea of ahood scoop myself!

i have seen worse, actually, had TWICE worst myself. the little chunk behind the door isnt even there on my gl-10, i have had cars with no rocker panels, the rear quarter is expected to be gone for eny soob i get ahold of. get a pic of the underside of the framerail, i have seen them pretty much gone, but the car still holds up. take it from me, the car is not too rusty to consider not fixing it. these guys out west could not comprehend the rust in the midwest, upper east, find your best example and they will tell you its a rust-bucket!!! they junk cars over smog tests, not rust!

make sure tou read the haynes book text very well, because gong by the pictures alone will throw you off, happens to a few people,

i was told an ea82 wont fit in a gen1, because the engine bay is too narrow. but that was what i was TOLD, not something i found out myself

actually, you can have an odd size tire on one or the other axle, as long as the other tire is the same size as at least one tire on the other axle. , because of the open front and rear diffs. its having 2 of the same size on one axle that is a different size of both tires on the other axle, that is what will bind up the center diff. there is a 15a fuse for the 5spd single range in the gl-10, but 4wd button works with it IN

if you hold the door handle up while closing the door, it will remain locked, if not, it unlocks. its an anti lockout feature commonly found on many japanese cars for the era. try it out!

they started the ones IN the hood in 88, on a gl sedan i have seen tge one and only 90 loyale i have seen didnt have as much body trim as usual on gl, and it had a single range 5spd on an spfi

did you pull the distributor? if so, you need to put it at #1 with the toming marks at 0deg BTDC, not the 3 marks. the driver side cam will be at 12:00, rotate the crank 360, it will be at 6:00. then put the passenger side at 12:00. and there you go. there is a notch in the plastic timing cover, which is inline with the cam cover seal. chack and make sure you are not a tooth off.

any MT swap is the same amount of work. all the shifter mechanism can stay connected to the tranny. the only difference between a d/r and a single range is the shifter cover plate. the d/r will have the hole for the lever, and will still bolt up to the body like its supposed to. just behind the shifter hole, on the underside, is a stud that the shifter mound goes to on the automatic's body. you can take the shifter linkage off the tranny in one oiece if you wish, it s fine either way. the only thing you will have to do thats not already there is bypass the neutrak safety switch(you can jump a wire on the auto shifter's wiring plug- in, or just make a pushbutton starter swit) you will have to re-wire the my for the reverse light, and there will be nothing for the 4wd light indicator to plug in(for the lo on the 4wd lever) but all the physical fitment of everything will fit as if the car was already an MT! take it from me, i put a 4wd5spd in a 2wd ea81, put one in a 4wd auto ea82 sedan, and converted a 2wd auto sedan to 4wd 5spd! so i know what's involved in any possible 5spd/dr conversion, as well as a good number of board members. if you tackle this on, and run into a problem, just ask the board, because enough of us have done this in a number of our own ways, so at least one of us will have the answer to your specific method of going at it!

josh, who has a 3-door rx, would rather have a sedan rx any day! at least i know of someone who would covetm YOUR ride! he was considering taking all the rx goodies and putting them in a gl sedan! but now Myoss Feece will be owning the rx here in the next day or 2, the deal being closed! dont let the rx go for nothin'!!!

yo, once i get my traswagon back i will see about making an east coast meet. moosens, your invite still stands with me dennis, no hard feelings over the "soap opera" i recognise your good intent to begin with-its over me now and then TrashWagon 5 will be Coast-To-Coast! at leas if you guys met me in person, you will know who i am for real!

some day i will be out that way to get my soob fom Bonners Ferry Idaho. suppose i could catch one of you given i make good time!

its like when someone goes for a ride in your rig, and they somewhat dismiss it, and couldnt even comprehend all the work that went into it, and say somethig stupid like the paint is faded, and pass it off ad a pos.. somewhat like a buy here pay here lot, its not the mechanical condition of ths car that matters, its how well it looks that will sell. no pody will care if the brakes are grinding or the ecs light is on, as long as they can pimp it to the ladies, thinking they look good in their k-car!

removing the starter will help clear the firewall, too!

if you have exhaust leaks before the turbo, there wont be any exhaust pressure to spin the turbo. use some hi-temp silicone(the orange copper stuff) on the gaskets, even on used ones if they are still intact