MilesFox

keep at it Tom! i know your automotive knowledge is what its gonna take to get her right! Now you are the only one in the Tri-State with a weber! (what are you doing with the old carb, the glf or jims brat could use it!) hollar at me

the only other rx i ever saw in person was a sedan. the 3-door had "full-time 4wd" in blue lettering, and the sedan had it in red lettering.....

pretty much the reason that 90-94 ea82's are called the loyale, is because subaru came out with the legacy in 90, so the ea82's needed a name to distinguish the models. tey wer gl/dl before that, because it was the only model out at the time (besides the brat, and the STD(the previous hatchback design)

when getting your 5spd, get the entire clutch/flywheel, and the flywheel bolts. you will also need the driveshaft and rear diff. being that your car is already 4wd, the drivshaft and diff will fit the same. the clutch pedal box(all 3 pedals in one assembly) will fit the same. i would remove the steering column, since it goes through the bedal box, it comes out with 2 bolts and some electrical connections. there will be a rubber plug covering the hole that is already there for the clutch cable. when getting the pedal assy, disconnect the clutch cable from the tranny end, and leave it connected to the pedal end. grab the grommet from the donor car if possible. the padal assy is held on by 4 studs that come through the firewall from the brake booster assembly, and the top half bolts to the steering column for added support. put the pedals in with the 4 nuts, then the steering column, then the top bolts after that. there is a flat spot on the steering shaft, that the retainer bolt fots across, it will only go on one way, make sure your wheels are straight when doing the steering column. the hole for the inner shifter boot may be a little different, but the outer boot/plate will snap right onto the center console where the at's used to be, all will fit like its supposed to. the only clue to it was an automatic is PRND1 on the instrument cluster! the axles will use a 3/16 punch, dont use a 1/4 inch, or it will get stuck! there is a concave side on the axle to drive the pins out/in from. when doing the diff, drop the mustace bar from the 19mm nuts, and articulate it one way and then the other to slide off each axle. when dong the trans, and assuminf the motor is out, you can pull the tranny one way or the other to slide the axles on one way otr the other. the axles only fit on one way, if its 180 off, the holes wont align exactly. slide the punch through the holes to line them up before driving in the pins. also, if you dont have the clutch center tool, as if using the same clutch if it is still good, you can do the clutch this way: have the starter removed from the tranny. put the clutch disc on the flywheel, then mock up the pressure plate and thread the bolts in finger tight. the isea is its tight enough to hold the clutch disc still, but will be allowed to slide around by hand. that way it woll give enough to find its way onto the tranny shaft. once the motor is almost aginst the trans, wiggle the motor around until the shaft finds its way into the pilot bearing. with the starter still out, and the motor against the tranny, now you can get in there with a 12mm socket to tighten down the 6 pressure plate bolts. now put on the starter, the thru-bolt that goes on the top of the starter holds on the battery ground cable, dont forget that because i always do! a few tips of expertise from This Fox!

all of the axles and driveline will be at the same angles relative to the suspension and drivetrain. the motor, trans, axles and wheels we be to the same proportion, as the body sits up hugher on the same dimensions. tell the boyfriend mechanic to go back to school! (or at least look under a soob) the only thing that will change is the lenght of the brake lines, steering linkage, and maybe the pitch bar, depending on how high you go. if its an spfi, you might have to move the airbox in a little bit, so the plastic ductwork will still fit on there.

http://usmb.net/gallery/albun92/225_55_zr_16 check this out, these are the 16 inch chev rims i drilled out for the trashwagon. i had to ream out the center hole to fit on the soob's hub, being 16's i used 205/55 camaro tires, about the size of a 185 14 wheel... it uses 2 of the rims holes, and 2 of the drilled holes. i would suggest reinforcing the drilled holes by welding a washer to the outside, and countersinking id possible. if not countersinking, use the flat side of the ea82 open lug nut. the holes on the rim are larger than a soob's, and a soob lugnut will want to draw through when torqued down. the soob uses a 19mm nut, i got a set of 21mm nuts from napa. when getting lugnuts, get the 21mm, M12 1.25 thread pitch, and a 60 deg. seat. i got the black ones about $1.25 a piece, comes in a set of 5 from napa. they also have zinc ones too.

this may be on the extreme end, but was the case on the trashwagon... the bolts on the front engine crossmember came loose, the whole side of the crossmember was hanging about an inch from the body, allowing the whole front end to articulate, when getting on the gas, the whole front suspension wouls want to drive out from under the car! check the crossmember and see if it is securelt connected to the framerail, 14mm nuts. also, with my modified struts, the nuts that held the strut cap on were loose, wollowed out a bit, and made things floppy up front. check that too. and one more thing, the strut braces that go from the lower control arm to the swaybay mount. the one side is bolted to the control arm, and the back end goes through a hole with a bushing. this is what stabilizes the lower control arm. check to see if the 17mm nuts are tight, and there is no play in the bushing. hope this helps, in addition to checking the balljoint and axle nuts!

yo, i got my hard drives back. i am going to get them going tonight, and see what i have put together already. i want to strike a deal with you about hosting........

is it a 5spd or a 4spd?

can you "feel the noise" through the brake pedal. there are stories of brakes locking up after a wash, maybe moisture has to do with it, until they "warm up" the best thing to do is have a look-see. a 14mm will get the caliper off, and a 17mm will get the bracket off. you have to ubdo the big axle nut to take the rotor off, but only if you are replacing it or having it turned. really just take off the tire and one 14mm bolt! get some anti-seize compound when going back together, helps keep things free moving

can you "feel the noise" through the brake pedal. there are stories of brakes locking up after a wash, maybe moisture has to do with it, until they "warm up" the best thing to do is have a look-see. a 14mm will get the caliper off, and a 17mm will get the bracket off. you have to ubdo the big axle nut to take the rotor off, but only if you are replacing it or having it turned. really just take off the tire and one 14mm bolt!

rusty cars in california? i dont believe it. you aint seen rust till you come to the midwest! (i'm talkin about no rocker panels, holes in the floor, and doors you can stick your hand up into to unlock them!

well, as long as you gave room to get to it. suppose you can pull the tranny. when i put a lift in trashwagon 4, converting the ea81t to a 5 spd, i left the motor in the car, pulled the auto, and installed the 5spd. it this was my first MT, and it went right in and against the motor before i ever knew of pilot bearings and alignment tools!

dont over torque when using gaskets, as it will squeeze the gasket out as the pan smooshes it apart!. if using silicone, put some on the pan, start the bolts a couple of turns, and let it set up for a good hour or so before tightening them up. dont tighten them too much, they will twist off. use a 1/4 drive ratchet for the right torque "feel"

give the e-brake a pull at speed(to stop normally, not lock them up!) see if the noise is still there. the parking brake connects to the front calipers, and activates the pistons the same as the hydraulics do. i would say from my experience the pads arw worn down enough to grind, but havent been that way long enough to tear up the rotor. my rear disc brake on one side just started to grind out of the blue, although its due for pads. but it doesnt show any damage on the rotor as of yet. if you change your pads right away, you can spare the rotors. remember, on a subaru, the front pistons have to be turned clockwise to push them in, because of the parking brake mechanism if ya got rear discs, a c-clamp or some big channel locks will do the trick to push them in normally.

the ea71 and ea81 bvellhousings interchange the same, so if a ea81 wont work, neither will ea71

on my trip out west, i noticed there were more older ea81 soobs running around than newer ones where i come from. going through montana, you either saw a van, suv, truck or soob. if it was a car that was not a soob, it was most likely a Buick. bit for any other car that was not a soob, there was at least one or 2 more soobs to make up for it. a green ea82 wagon passed us in montana. we saw it stopped at a river pull-over, the driver plating a guitar in idaho. then it passed us again in washington, the guy pointed at us in disbelief, us being in a trashwagon, of course!

one way to do a clutch without the alignment tool is this: remove the starter, so now you have a big hole to work through. install the new clutch disc and the pressure plate. thread in the PP bolts just enought to keep the clutch disc from flopping around, but you can still slide ithe disc around by hand. now put the motor against the tranny. there will be enough "give" for the clutch to find its way onto the splines as the shaft finds the pilot hole. now tighten all the PP bolts up through that big ol hole where the starter was. now put on the starter and give her a whirl! i have done all my clutches this way, except one for a friend who's kit came with the center tool.

crack it open and find out. at least you will be able to answer it the next time the subject comes up!

i would recommend pulling the motor, it comes out just the same as any other soob motor, all the turbo and extras stay on the motor. you will undo the bellhousing bolts, the throttle cable, heater hoses, mpfi wiring harness unplugs from body, and a ground wire by the water pipe. the unbolt the downpipe from the turbo, as it will stay connected to the tranny, and the motor will pull away from it as it comes out. i have found it a lot easier to pull the motor rather than the trans, because to pull the trans, its the same amount of unbolting, plus removing the starter, axles, driveshaft, leaking gear oil, being under the car.... if you got a hoist then use it! i pulled a turbo xt motor to swap from a bad 4wd auto to a 2wd auto, even if removin/swapping the trans, its easier if you pull the motor first.

i wopuld suggest pulling the motor(if you have a hoist. its a lot easier than messing with the axles and shifter.... snd with the motor out, do othger service too. you will have to remove the flywheel/flexplate from the motor. the old seal can be picked out with a screwdriver if you are careful, although there are several ways described by the board.. when installing the new one, tap around it so it seats evenly, and is fluxh with the back of the motor. you dont want to drive it in too far and bottom it out, as it will cover the oil passage. no sense spending 500 bucks over a 7.00 part! save the 500 for a lift and such!!!

i had turbo cams in a spfi motor with a carb. had good low end with open ports, pulled a 2 axle trailer with a dead soob, but was a dog turd with an exhaust pipe!

nope, just the turbo axle, that's all, but the hub will be the same, splines, pads, rotor, caliper... the only thing different about the axle is the end that fits on the tranny

all you ever get around here is blue ea82's with blue interior. jim has a knack for finding them, especially gl-10 turbos with 2wd autos! i had 2 blue wagons, a friend has a blue sedan, and all 3 white soobs, and the one silver one, all had blue interior! grey is rare, and i have only seen one brown. was there a red interior?

would the doj interchange, or maby the whole bearing race, the little circlip that hoolds it on? you could swap to ea82 lower control arms, but you wil have to salvage the mount from an ea82 crossmember. as described by rguyver, and applied to trashwagon. the ball joint holes will be a different size, but i used the whole ea82 strut, with the ea81 strut cap modified to fit. if the axle diameter is the same, try swappong doj and see what happens.