MilesFox

It takes me about 5-6 hours to drive to coldwater, MI. muskegon would probably be an hour less. But add 45 minutes from milwaukee to sheboygan. I suggest taking 94 stright thru chicago, and take the skyway to save 30-45 min of driving. And do not take the west burbs 290 loop as that adds toll and another hour or more of drive time. Sometimes using the local lanes is faster than the express lane, depending on the volume of traffic. Try to pace a semi that is mofing along at a good pace, as the trucks drive at more consistent speed without a lot of slowing down or lane changing. Keep to the right lanes, or the middle lanes, follow the large trucks. as far as your carb goes, pump it up a few times, and on the last pump, push the gas down fully, release, and ton't touch it as this sets the choke. Pumping while cranking just releases the choke. Try this and i bet a dollar it will start on the first 3 attempts, if not the first try. This is assuming the choke is working properly.

If you want to post about how a subaru is not up to par, please take the time to register and give your first post at a ford or cadillac forum.

I can change both belts on a subaru motor within 10 minutes. Given that hour, i would be mostly done with the timing belt as well.

my local library is a hole in the ground right now, under construction. MY labor rate at $40 x 4 hours is close to $250 suggested by others. I suppose my rate could be worth more. I will give myself 8 hours total for the price to do the work. I am more concerned with parts costing more than what i would do the work for. I do intend to pull the radiator, and of course, run the engine till the thermostat opens and fans come on the be certain of clearing air lock. Still being worth a few bucks, i am still enthusiastic about getting my hands dirty on different models and generations of subaru, for experience. Perhaps i can make a video of it as an incentive (to demonstrate the work with motor-in-car). I will have the car for a week to perform the work, so i can afford to take my time. Thanks for the input

If you come to wisconsin hit me up. I have a set of side skirts and airdam for your buddy in muskegon. I am directly across the lake. But don't swim here

I beg to differ. I had to change a serpentine belt on a taurus once. not fun. Belts on the soob is too easy, everything is up front and on top. Laying under a car with no ground clearance to access a part that is under the motor is not my cup of tea. To each his own preferences. I am not fond of any transverse FWD regardless of platform. This is why i favor the subaru. I'll give the ford taurus credit for having an independent rear suspension.Much better than GM 3 link solid beam (which makes me seasick riding in the back of some pontiac with no room for my feet behind the driver.)

Subaru is now making engines with gear driven timing.

use a clothes pin or a clamp to clip the belt to the pulley until you can get the tensioner in there. I had to make several attempts in the video to get it right, but of course, edited that part out for demonstration. another trick is to route the belt and install the toothed pulley last, then pull the pin to the tensioner.

in my ej swap/5spd/dr, i had to place a washer between the starter and the bellhousing, as the bendix would not retract fully

This is why you buy a higher mile car. One, it costs less, two, major service has been done already. Comparing a ford taurus to a subaru is like apples to oranges. So you can get 190,000 miles out of the taurus, but you don't get 4wd. Rather owning a taurus vs a subaru is rather unappreciating (my opinion) . the subaru is much easier to work on, which is ideal for those who do their own maintenance, andhae basic tools. The subaru costs so much to hire work on because all of the mechanics only know how to work on ford tauruses, and go at working on all wron

The video demonstrates going coverless where you can grab the whole pulley by hand. I run open belts for ease of service, as it saves you several steps if you service the water pump or cam seals later. Non-interference FTW (90-96 ej22e) The keyway on the crank snout at 6 o'clock position represents all 4 pistons in the center of their stroke. Make sure to get that crank pulley bolt good and tight, as much as you can

if you are using standard hose, run enough length to get a bend radius that won't kink. Source vinyl hose FTW

Run some sea foam through the IACV and PCV and 1/3 the bottle in the oil, then change the oil and filter after 100 miles or so.

I have a guy who has been trying to get me to replace his timing belt (100,000 mi service) and i am trying to get a figure on book time for the operation so i can give him a proper quote at my labor rate. I have a habit of selling myself short being an enthusiast, but this time is an opportunity to make some income, while giving the guy a better rate (and better quality) than shop or dealer rate. I suggested the following: Timing belt and idlers (gates or subaru) water pump (oem/made in japan) cam seals oil pump/crank seal. I intend to pull the radiator, but i am not worried about book time for that (since i am opening the cooling system anyway) I estimate parts will be about $450 including fluids, hoses. I don't want to sell myself short, or sticker shock the guy. I will be working in the alley out of my garage, but he acknowledges my experience and expertise. I have done this kind of thing more for fun than for pay, so this is why I'm asking those of you who do this work for customers/friends out of your own garage/shop.

SOHC or DOHC? The cam on the right side will be sprung under valve spring tension. It can snap one way or the other. No damage can be done as long as the crank hasn't been moved. If you are doing a SOHC belt, this vid may help you. the instructions assume the belt covers removed or the engine out of the car. The video demonstrates the cam moving one way or the other

I forgot to update and say that i have already swapped in the dual range RX trans and the eibach ground control springs with agx2 struts up front. Mechanically, the build is complete, but i still have to wire in the gauges and VSS. i made a slideshow video, see the build from start to finish in one sitting.

you probably have a bad cv or doj in the axle if you are having a 'card in the spoke' sound

10w30 oil for above freezing avg temp, 5w30 for below freezing avg. temp

The difference between the 105mm and 110mm pump is merely which pulley it uses. 110mm for studded pulley, 105mm for bolt-on pulley. that is all. Regardless of application, you can use either or water pumps as long as you have the associated pulley for that pump. mixing and matching pulley for one pump on the other will ruin the studs or the holes on the pulley, and will fall apart, or have a misaligned belt

Here is a tip: join the engine and tc together before installing the intake, for better access to the bolts.

My woman's father lit charcoal briquettes on a shovel to place under the oil pan once when it was too cold to start, before draining the battery.

If you read the OP, he bought the car this way. A pimp subaru is better than no subaru. I sort of like it. I would like to see it lifted and rolling on dubs. and a spare tire on the trunk

slideshow ER27 Head Gasket XT6

Photo Slideshow: EJ25D remove heads

my guesses are: weak battery 5 yrs or older old fuel filter moisture icing over below freezing. a battery too weak to turn the starter will still power the car and accessories. What you are thinking of is bad terminal connection where all power is lost until a wiggle is given to the terminals. Start with the battery. An old battery that seems fine at 35 deg can fall on its face at 20 degrees. Have it load tested at your local auto store. If you feel like it, remove the starter and load test it. A starter with a shorted armature can act like a weak battery when the battery is 100%