MilesFox

yes, sir, the timing belts are on the ea82 engine, found in 85-94. but the hatch and brat continued to use a gear driven cam motor(ea71 and ea81) thru 87 and 89

dude called me out. I have to keep true to my character, you know! but anyway, i see where you come from, but dude kept responding!

where is bexley, oh? Both Tom and Myself have been yo Jim's place in ohio, And i have met with Alleyboy there too. we meet every so often. Jim goes as 86 subaru, he gots lots of parts if you may need something. look him up. maybe a meet someday? We got out Subaru Alliance, local to the mi, oh, and indiana region. would like to get more members, and have another meet next may!

hwew do you have your pics hosted at? i got pics on yahoo photos, but i cant link directly. get with subaru junkie for pics hosting. i guess you can upload a pic as an atatchment from your computer to your message, but i havent tried that, doing all my comm at the library but anyway, keep up on the board and you will know what my situation will be. some people will be following it, because the reason for which my car is in idaho was once hot topic on the old board. and i will be posting about making the tip out there. anyway, stay tuned, drop me an email milesfox@yahoo.com

is it broke, like shattered, or just not closing up?

that's what i said, but i gorgot to say ea81 for gen 2. oops the justy has a geo metro motor, and its sideways. Suzuki said "Hey Subaru! Design us a 4wd platform for our suzukis" and Subaru said "Sure we will, but we get the marketing rights and sell them as soobs!"

on my 83, i did an ea82 suspension conversion, which required longer(ea82 tierods) my car was a manual rack, and my parts were from a power rack. but the threads are different, the manual had male threads and the power had female(i think, one way or the other) anyway, it was a homosexual thread that would not work between power and manual but that should be one of the differences.

undo the nut from the motor mount on that side.(under the crossmember) jack up that side of the motor until the exhaust pipe meets the crossmember. you can get it up out of the framerail some 2-3 inches. makes it a lot easier. i took one off without doing that, everytime i got a socket on a bolt, by the time i backed it out, it was wedged against the car, with the wrench! its actually called a cam(case) cover on the ea82 either way described will work, but you will have less time in jacking the motor than you will turning the bolts 1/8 turn at a time!

he may have connected the wrong fuel hose to the pump. i have taken the fuel pump out from underneath, so i can hook it up to a gas can to drive the car out of the woods! anyway, all of the vapor can can be eliminated. there are 3 lines from the tank, one the main fuel, one the vent, and one the return. the mechanic probably connected the vent and return wrong, causing it to flood. is the pump to a switch, or does it come on with a key. i'll bet the original subaru pump worked, but some relay was out! you say your car was 85, ea81? what body style is it?(wagon, hatchback, sedan...) tom is right about too much pressure. i had a carb motor in a turbo car, the car would start up and die, was flooding out. swapped pumps with one from a carbbed, and problems solved. i have done this for several vehicles with success. try to find a soob pump, check behind the rear wheel to see if the original is there. the pump under the hood is probably drawing through, and the mechanic was too lazy to look. in fact, he probably thought the pump was in the tank, so he never thought to look. shows how much he knows about soobs! it would have been too easy to fix it right, 2 bolts and a plastic plug!

i got one of them 23 dollar valve tools from napa. its almost a piece of junk, but i got it to work. ieither its too tight, or the tongs wont hold ontop the springs. i would have to hold the tongs to the dpring by hand, and then work the lever with my other hand and against my knee to squeexe it, on a piece of cardboard in the driveway! (the mosquitoes in the garage were too much) since i had it apart, and my seal kit came with new valve seals, i poked the heads out with a dremel. works good for grinding cracks away!

if ever the case with ambient dust like as in going down county roads, rull up the indows and crank up the vent, to keep positive air pressure in the car! otherwise, having the front windows down will suck in dirt from the rusted trunk.

here in the great state of Indiana, you can plate your 4wd subaru wagon with a 10,000 pounds truck plate, and by thus not having to wear seatbelts in the front seat, because its not required in a truck., laws dont make sense, they work in both good and bad ways. no one ever applied common sense to law, just procedure. so how does a plate mean the difference between a ticket in the same car?

it might happen in my 83 wagon--if i dont land the xt6 up town.

had one for parts, 1983 sunroof and power windows 2wd 5 spd i had the badge, but the gl10 part broke off.

i'll bet the fuel pump mount from a 83 or so would bolt right into place

if you wanted to go the spfi route, just swap on the entire spfi manifold

i might be up that way, or down that way on my way to or back from idaho to get my trashwagon. i could stop by. if everything goes right i will be making my trip sometime by november

the gen 1 is referring to the 70's models. or often called ea71's. your car would be in the gen 2 range, 80-84 wagons, sedans, and 80-89 hatchback and brats. the what would be a gen 3 as you put it would be the 85-94 ea82 cars. but they started calling them loyale in 90 when the legacy came out. all of these have the ea series motor, and the legacy and newer have ej motors

its all sH!ts ang giggles from here on. so what's this REAL car? my car is real too. i can touch it, smell it, and taste it!

one place in particular that i have noticed soobs to rust is where the rear of the front fenders meet the rocker panel behind the wheel. dirt will pile up back there, holding in moisture, i would suggest pulling the fenders and cleaning them out, and rust proof it before it goes back on. spray some GREAT STUFF foam in there too. check out the rear cargo wells, and up front the framerails, as they are the first to rust on soobs, and wheel arches too. try to shoot some foam in some of the body cavities to displace any potential, dirt, leaves, moisture build-up

probably not exactly, although i have never compared. the round is the panasonic, and the sqare is the hitachi, and between the both, they have different belt tensioner pulleys. suppose the compressors would interchange, the pulleys will neeed to line up, and if they do, you might have to mix and match around for one of 3 style belts but i am not telling you it wint fit............just as long as you got enough parts to play with!

it will work with the mix, but the orange life will only be as good as the green mixed in. but other than that it will still work like its supposed to. also the orange stuff will find its way leaking through holes the green stuff wont leak thru. the difference is the orange is extended life, but it doesnt do any good but cost more money if yer changin fluids every year! but you can mix what you got and be good for at least as long as the green is rated for. i would personally prefer the green stuff, we had an 87 spfi wagon that kept getting hot with the orange stuff, but it was leaking out of the same radiator that we had for green, which did not leak. havent tried orance since the radiator was replaced.....

yo! lets see your dirty hands! lets see your "World's Only Subaru 2-door Wagon"! Lets see your Ea81 body with ea82 motor, suspension, and transmission, lets see your ported and polished heads, lets see your krylon paint job, sheetmetal body armor, and 6 inch lift! Lets see your ea81 in an ea82 body with spfi. lets see your ea82 water pump on an ea81 motor. lets see your 2wd 5spd to 4wd 5spd, your 4wd auto to 4wd 5spd, and 2wd auto to 4wd 5 spd. no? thats what i thought! HEY< i know these things from DOING, not collectively listening to whoever. and you called me out? "IF YA GOTTA PROBLEM LETS TAKE IT OFF ROAD" (which shows i know how to drive, too:moon: ) "I AM MILES FOX!"

yes, its an auto. if i remove the driveshaft, leave the fuse in, and the car continues to make this noise, what should i make of it. everything works like its supposed to, but just noisy!

i have seen the sqare kind with both the alternator outboard and the alternator inboard. i like these because you can mount the alternator with the compressor removed. but the one with the inboard alt has odd sized belts, and that makes for trouble at the parts counter!