MilesFox

ok, lets give a day to put the block together, and the next day to go from there!

the rubber strip is tricky to install, make sure it fits in all the channels like its supposed to, you might have to poke it into some of the channels, hard to stuff sometimes!

there should be some sort of solenoid on the side. the governor shaft wont have to do with 4wd. there are several electrical connections on top of the tranny. can you read a schematic? the haynes subaru repair manual has schematics that should cover the 4wd mechanism

oh, another thing------it has a 5spd d/r? from what i have read the didnt offer a 5spd in a sedan. is yours originally like that from the factory, or did someone convert it. you dont have PRNDL on the instrument panel? i had put a 5spd in an 4wd automatic sedan, and we put a 5spd in a friends 2wd auto sedan

the 86 spfi was jims, i had worked on the speedo... i had an 86 wagon, an 86 sedan, both carbbed, and my 83 wagon has the motor and trans from an 86. personally i like the 85 and 86 best, the gauges, the distributors are good for other applications, and the steering wheel doesnt look like a big dildo! if its only got 57k, good hell of a find! i dont think you will have any trouble with it, as long as you take care of it, and if the previous owner hasnt serviced it, well, at least its not due for a timing belt yet (almost-service schedule recommends replacing timing belt every 60000 miles) the 86 is probably the best year for the 5spd dual range 4x4 transmission. your car being carbbed, as long as it gets driven often enough, the carb wont crap out from dry rot. just keep clean filters in it and you will be good forever. and a personal story from me- I picked up an 86 wagon that had an estimated 300,000 miles, carbureted, i went to go pick it up from the previous owner, who had it sitting for over a year, and it started right up. the body was about shot, but it ran good, the only problem was a rusty brake line and rusty ffuel line. i used the motor in an 88, then used the heads on another motor, and the carb on an other motor, and put the 300,000 mile trany in a 60,000 mile car, and it shifted better than my 150,000 mile tranny! you got a good find, especially from michigan. I live in NE indiana, and i know how rare a good soob and parts can be. Locally, you got Myself, TomRHere, and 86 Subaru to call on for help, we would like to have another meet next year, and we would like for you to meet with us some day!

broken timing belt? check to see if the distributor turns.

i put a sunroof in a wagon, after it became a 2-door!

...........and a 5 spd transmission.....

either the heads pr just the cqm can be swapped TrashWagon's motor has a carb block and spfi heads(no emissions taps at exhaust ports), and i use the carb cams, i think. anyway, i have a ccarb atop spfi heads, eliminated a lot of emissions ccrap, got a cherrybomb, straight pipe,2 1/2 inch, and an spfi y pipe. runs like a scalded dog. as far as rebuilding goes, theave teh bottom ent intact, and just do the seals. if you have it apart, you might as well do the head gaskets, for good measure. reopace the cam, oil pump seals, water pump gasket, and do new belts. you could leave the plastic covers off completely, if you anticipate future timing belt changes(is like i do mine, no reliability issues that way) that way all you will need to do is take off the alt/ps belts to cange a t-belt, rather than the whole front end of the motor! as far as time goes, myself and Tomrhere, did a turbo motor, tore it out of the car, apart, new complete eals and gasket set, put it back together, and got it running and driving that night. it can be easily done in a weekend, a day by the experienced. just make sure you have everything you need to start with, so you have no downtime. put about 4-6 hours for the motor, and an hour each for pulling, and installing

was the motor is good working order before it came apart? chances are its still useable. i have used questional parts myself to find tem still good.

everyone has their own preferred methods and techniqiesi fitst thing i do is punch out he pins with 3/16 do like tom's approach, but always pop the ball joint. i can pop the balljoint using a jack and a hammer, thus pulling the knucke away from the control arm. i have used 2x4, pipe, whatever is long enougn, pry down the lower control arm to take it apart or put back together. make s it a 1 man operation i leave the rotor and caliper on the strut. i always undid the tie rod, but i tried it connected. althogh it can be left on, i find it easier to move the strut around with it out. you can thread the nut on backwards, flush with the stud, and give it a sharp blow with a hammer to pop it out. you can pop th eball joint by placing the jack ight on the stus, jack it up to preload the suspension, and tap the lower control arm, the load of suspension will bring it away. this is why i like to take the tierod off. the car is already on a jackstand, take the jack lut. i can do an axle in roughly 10 minutes this way

everyone has their own preferred methods and techniqiesi fitst thing i do is punch out he pins with 3/16 do like tom's approach, but always pop the ball joint. i can pop the balljoint using a jack and a hammer, thus pulling the knucke away from the control arm. i have used 2x4, pipe, whatever is long enougn, pry down the lower control arm to take it apart or put back together. make s it a 1 man operation i leave the rotor and caliper on the strut. i always undid the tie rod, but i tried it connected. althogh it can be left on, i find it easier to move the strut around with it out. you can thread the nut on backwards, flush with the stud, and give it a sharp blow with a hammer to pop it out. you can pop th eball joint by placing the jack ight on the stus, jack it up to preload the suspension, and tap the lower control arm, the load of suspension will bring it away. this is why i like to take the tierod off. the car is already on a jackstand, take the jack lut. i can do an axle in roughly 10 minutes this way

some spekers are designed to be spring suspended, or air suspended. A spring suspended speaker will have a rigid accordian shape rim around the cone to the frame. these speakers are for an open application like a car door or dashboard. the air suspended variety are designed to be in an enclosure, using the compression of air to bounce the cone on pressure wave. these are for enclosures such as bandpass boxes and such you could get away with ow it is for the spewakers to work enough to hear, but making a port (about 2 in diameter) will get the air to move around. all of this is in the radio shack book previously mentioned

you should have one front wheel and one rear wheel spinning at any one time. there is a plug in for the switch just under the center console \ does the 4wd light come on?

i'll bet you would know more than the mechanic about soobs, but you wouldnt realize it till you got your hands dirty! if its an ea81, that would be real easy, no timing belts or annoying plastic covers to worry about. you can do a head gasket for under 50 bucks, and that includes intake, exhaust seals, and oil. if you got the tools then do it. you gotta take the intake off, so the carb caould be serviced before it goes back on. i personally would pull the motor out, but i would change both head gaskets at the same time.

suppose you could use an electric leaf blower, and a higher amp ca converter(like the ones that could handle a microwave such as for an rv) ans a good alternator. it could be turned on and off witha switch, but tou would have to enrichen the fuel to keep it from running lean and getting hot. suppose you could wire up some sort of injector, as ling as you had enough psi behind the whole fuel system. a wastegate could be fashioned ffom some sort of spring valve, the boost could be controlled with a potentiometer. just some ideas.....

how about a 5spd in a 2wd? the 16 inch chevy rims can be drilled out, you will want to use the 21mm lug nut with m12 1.25 thread, and 60 deg. seat. i used a set of truck rims and put 2o5/55 camaro tires on the rims, not much bigger around (made 3.90 drive like 3.70). you will have to grind away at the middle hole to fit the subaru hub. i have seen a set of 15's for a 6 lug, those would offer better selection for tires you could send just the 4wd shifter to jerry, i am sure he can make you an adapter, because tyhe shifter mechanism off the 5spd is different than the 4spd's the 5 spd shifter assy fits onto an arm that bolts to the tranny, the shifter and 4wdd are both like this in one unit. everything for a rear suspension can be left the same, but parts off an (ea82), the car the tranny came from, can be converted over for bigger brakes. you will need the driveshft from the 5 spd you might have to modify the shifter hole and tunnel to fit it, but mine went into a 2wd. general disorder put a 4spd in a 2wd, and one method i suggested that he made work was to stack washers between the body and the trans crossmember to drop the tranny down just enough to clear the trans tunnel. you could have jerry make your 4wd handle, so it fits and appears stock for that car.

busted axle? i would have replaced the rear trailing arm on that side, if not just the rim to begin with. the rest would have been ok

did it actually quit running or did the ECS light come on again?

i wish..its been a little while:banana: i just read the svx thread, so i will try the awd disable fuse and see if that does anything?

thenoise came back after the tires were aired up. the car had sat for a few months. but it has always made the noise since we fixed the front tranny seal. so how exactly is the center diff in these models? the noise will come and go, going usually if the car is being driven more. of course the center diff is working, because it can pull some mean donuts!!!

the legacy ft4wd auto 2.2 makes an awful moaning noise 25-60mph. it is most prominent while deceleration. i aired up the back tires, being a little squatty. drove the car and the noise went away. drove the car again and it came back. josh says the noise goes away in neutral. the noise sounds like it is coming from the middle to the rear. i checked out the brakes and the wheel play, everything was tight, so its not a bearing issue. is the center diff open or lsd? and would the noise be diff related if it were lsd? either that or it has to do with the driveshaft. i want to get under the car, but i need to find another jackstand!

i guess it comes down to personal preference. but i think that a stick is best in snow. thats because you have more control of the power to the wheels. sometimes you want to break an wheel free to maneuver a turn, such as kicking the rump roast end out when the car wants to understeer off a curve. my 2 cents i never ran my pinto off the road in the snow, and being a stick let me kixk the rump roast out whenever necessary. sometimes wheelspin is what will get you through. and at least with a stick, you have full control of your wheelspin, if thats what you want. autol blow!

i got the 170 from napa. thanx for the info

it looks like the dealer is just trying to catch up on the lack of service the last owner neglected. if all is fixed now, then the car will last forever. the dealer is doing things in the right order. if you got to tear the front apart for the timing bely, might as well do the water pup, oil seals and such, since you got to tear it down the same if you did it later. get to know you soobs now, you will like them, and then you will look differently at GM. take my word on it!